Shaggy39 43 Posted January 22, 2017 after all the rc cars i've built i can't quite believe i'm asking this. what does the 16mm countersunk machine screw screw into? i've got the right hole as it has countersunk opening but nothing to tighten up against! %5BURL=http://s795.photobucket.com/user/shaggy33/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/1AA1E5D5-DC29-4B9C-AAF2-096C577CFE2F_zps0qqykhbg.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy239/shaggy33/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/1AA1E5D5-DC29-4B9C-AAF2-096C577CFE2F_zps0qqykhbg.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL%5D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TurnipJF 9115 Posted January 22, 2017 The manual shows it threading into a hole in the plastic of the opposite chassis half. Being a machine thread, I would have expected it to thread into a nut or other metal piece, but it appears that there isn't one. It just cuts its own thread in the plastic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaggy39 43 Posted January 22, 2017 Cheers. That's what I though re nut so I checked back in manual to make sure I hadn't missed it, strange that it's machine whereas all the other are tappers. its not long enough to thread into anything so I've done something wrong....! Very wierd Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kanerdog1x1 36 Posted January 22, 2017 Photo isn't loading, but I think it's the one at the very front of the chassis holding the two halves together? It's a machine screw as it can be used to affect chassis flex. Initial setting is to tighten it fully, but you can back it off a quarter of a turn to add a touch of steering. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaggy39 43 Posted January 22, 2017 Thanks. Any idea why it's long enough to bit into other half of chsssis? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iluvmud 812 Posted January 22, 2017 If it's not fully tightening that means you over tightened it and it is now stripped.... with that screw you have to be very mindful with just that one out of all. I've built 4 M05s and after the 1st I've always been scared of that hole..... so I'm super gentle with it..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaggy39 43 Posted January 23, 2017 No It never got tight and then stripped. I literally went to fit it for the first time and the bolt just dropped into the hole, it's almost as if the screw is a couple of mm too short. Found a ss screw which is more like 18mm and it fits fine! Cheers for help guys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TurnipJF 9115 Posted January 23, 2017 12 hours ago, kanerdog1x1 said: It's a machine screw as it can be used to affect chassis flex. Initial setting is to tighten it fully, but you can back it off a quarter of a turn to add a touch of steering. Forgive the newbie question, but how does that work exactly? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaggy39 43 Posted January 23, 2017 Another question....! I'm trying to build it race spec as per a set I found on another forum, this suggests running either the mini Cva shocks or the trf ones. Well budget dictates the cheaper version so I set about building to have an overall length of 57mm which involved about 5mm worth of spacers under the piston, Problem now is that there is so little of the piston protruding from shock body that when you try and fit shock bottom you can't get it on! Any ideas....? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TurnipJF 9115 Posted January 24, 2017 Us super mini CVAs instead of mini ones - they have shorter bodies and can be built to the required length without resorting to loads of internal spacers, so you can get the bottom on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kanerdog1x1 36 Posted January 25, 2017 On 23/01/2017 at 8:24 AM, TurnipJF said: Forgive the newbie question, but how does that work exactly? Apparently, it allows the shock mounts to move ever so slightly, independently from one another. I have always used the carbon F&R damper mounts which negate the setting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted January 25, 2017 M05 is undrivable with stock front shock position...waaaay straight line unstable. front CF shock mount stands the shocks more upright and handling is miraculously improved bit of toe-in at rear blocks and M05 feels even better... like an M03 M03 uses just all M3x10 screws and you could build one blindfolded by throwing all the parts in the kit box and shaking it thrice; it'll come out race ready & untweaked. M05 uses a zillion different screw sizes, chassis is so easily tweaked (wrongly) they've got "more character" than Marvel Universe - no 2 newbuilt cars ever handle the same before tuning 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iluvmud 812 Posted January 25, 2017 2 hours ago, WillyChang said: M05 is undrivable with stock front shock position...waaaay straight line unstable. front CF shock mount stands the shocks more upright and handling is miraculously improved bit of toe-in at rear blocks and M05 feels even better... like an M03 M03 uses just all M3x10 screws and you could build one blindfolded by throwing all the parts in the kit box and shaking it thrice; it'll come out race ready & untweaked. M05 uses a zillion different screw sizes, chassis is so easily tweaked (wrongly) they've got "more character" than Marvel Universe - no 2 newbuilt cars ever handle the same before tuning Which kinda makes me want to convert one of my M05s (the stock one) into an M03 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted January 26, 2017 4 hours ago, iluvmud said: Which kinda makes me want to convert one of my M05s (the stock one) into an M03 Don't blame ye what would it need anyway, pretty much just the chassis halves and maybe a TA03 balldiff? And a fistful of 3x10s Took my current M05 out again to the track the other day, hasn't been out for least 2 years. It's a PRO that's been carefully assembled with all machinethread screws... yup, just from shelf sitting its developed some deadzone slop in the steering (trim changes every bump), very twitchy on the straights (shocks might've leaked). It's SWB, probably why most racers run longer chassis. Whereas M03 that came along too... that was built like 20yrs ago, saw TCS action in 2002 and never been apart since hahaha... yet still handles like a Mini should. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iluvmud 812 Posted January 26, 2017 9 minutes ago, WillyChang said: Don't blame ye what would it need anyway, pretty much just the chassis halves and maybe a TA03 balldiff? And a fistful of 3x10s Took my current M05 out again to the track the other day, hasn't been out for least 2 years. It's a PRO that's been carefully assembled with all machinethread screws... yup, just from shelf sitting its developed some deadzone slop in the steering (trim changes every bump), very twitchy on the straights (shocks might've leaked). It's SWB, probably why most racers run longer chassis. Whereas M03 that came along too... that was built like 20yrs ago, saw TCS action in 2002 and never been apart since hahaha... yet still handles like a Mini should. Well of course look at the steering setup it's direct and removes any play from the fancy shmancy stuff the M05 has. I say that but the M01 has it too but still drives the best IMO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted January 26, 2017 Nah, M01/2 were sloppy and their mono shock made everything worse no fond memories of those other than ability to build a twin-motor variant My M05PRO already has full alloy & bearings on the steering rack & pivots, alu topped high torque servosaver etc etc, M05 balldiff. Pretty sure it does, I remember buying all those... CBF'd diagnosing anything after track outing, buried it back on shelf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iluvmud 812 Posted January 26, 2017 1 hour ago, WillyChang said: Nah, M01/2 were sloppy and their mono shock made everything worse no fond memories of those other than ability to build a twin-motor variant My M05PRO already has full alloy & bearings on the steering rack & pivots, alu topped high torque servosaver etc etc, M05 balldiff. Pretty sure it does, I remember buying all those... CBF'd diagnosing anything after track outing, buried it back on shelf Dunno, I really like mine...... but it might just be cause Im a sucker for vintage stuff. I'll convert my stock M05 to an M03 and then Ill have all the odd Ms..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted January 26, 2017 haha true... whereas our main purpose for Ms is as a FWD track hack with SportTuned power, Grail is to tune them so you can mash the throttle at the green then simply steer around every corner without ever lifting off until the ending buzzer Other than that... just looks cute on shelf -not much else Minis are fun for. Had a brief dalliance with offroading & rallying, but meh. Stuck in a Mamba Max then a 4.5 Novak for highspeed trials... meh, they're not that fast (then they melt). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iluvmud 812 Posted January 26, 2017 15 minutes ago, WillyChang said: haha true... whereas our main purpose for Ms is as a FWD track hack with SportTuned power, Grail is to tune them so you can mash the throttle at the green then simply steer around every corner without ever lifting off until the ending buzzer Other than that... just looks cute on shelf -not much else Minis are fun for. Had a brief dalliance with offroading & rallying, but meh. Stuck in a Mamba Max then a 4.5 Novak for highspeed trials... meh, they're not that fast (then they melt). I like clumsiness, wr02, cw01 type stuff but these Mimi's are fun for me. I only get to drive them on the street, no courses around me. Sold my modded m05 the guys sends me an email saying I put wrong shock ends on the shocks..... not wrong, wrong for track maybe, but not for my driving.... lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1812 Posted January 26, 2017 Even if I did live on a big empty street (stuck in city amongst skyscrapers) imho there'd be better cars to trash onroad everything from 4WD touring cars to SCTs or even a scale rig. Small wheel mini don't run too well without much ground clearance. Big fleet of Wheelies old & new here but got tired of Lunchbox quite quickly, solid axle just too clumsy - got Hornets but they're only run for racing. For some odd reason I like 4WD minis though, accumulated a few non-Ts. Eyeing the MF01X but still think it's a bit too expensive for a lump of plastic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites