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Tamiya Top Force Re-re-really!

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Now that my original is done (wish I had waited on some parts as I’ve seen the rere’s are identical in every way) I’m thinking of buying a rere and already have a paint scheme in mind....

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I built my 2017 Top Force and I have a problem with the gear. It is very loud and it rattle :(

I use a 19T Team Orion motor with 19T pinion gear (original Tamiya from TT-01 kit). The motor mount shows me position 19T. I use the standard spur gear.

So I think it should be correct.

The motor spins, it rattle and the car need 2 seconds to start driving. 

What can I do?

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6 hours ago, Madcaper said:

I built my 2017 Top Force and I have a problem with the gear. It is very loud and it rattle :(

I use a 19T Team Orion motor with 19T pinion gear (original Tamiya from TT-01 kit). The motor mount shows me position 19T. I use the standard spur gear.

So I think it should be correct.

The motor spins, it rattle and the car need 2 seconds to start driving. 

What can I do?

After a lot of thinking I tried to change the motor back to the silver can and 21T pinion gear. My TF runs very smooth. After that I changed to silver can and 19T pinion gear. It rattles.

In the last step I changed to Team Orion motor and 21T pinion gear and the TF runs smooth.

So there is a problem with using 19T pinion gear. But I used motor position 19T. I do not understand why it rattles.

Does anybody use a 19T pinion gear in a Top Force, Manta Ray, TA-01.....?

Thanks for help

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Is it possible that the pinion grub screw is sticking out and hitting the spur?  I don't know much about the TT01 but I think the Top Force is 48 pitch metric.  Pinion pitch could be slightly off causing the noise.

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The Top Force uses the same spur as the Manta Ray, putting it at 0.6 module pitch, same as the TT-01 pinion, so it should be compatible.

Having had a look at the manuals, one possibility that strikes me is that the motor mount is being put back in with the wrong orientation, causing incorrect gear mesh. Does turning it through 180 degrees rectify the issue?

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I will check this. Thanks.

Is it possible to turn the motor mount? I think it can only assemble in one position.

 

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Are you using the stock plastic one or a metal upgrade? The stock plastic part has a big angled thing sticking out that makes it easy to see which way round it should be, but this is omitted from many metal ones, which can easily be put in the wrong way round.

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What gearing and performance are people running/getting? Running 3300kv brushless and 18t pinion, 7.2 nimh battery. Just seems a bit slow. My Thunder Dragon with 2700kv and 14t pinion with same battery takes off way quicker and just seems to generally have more pep despite the lower power motor. When my Thunder Dragon has the 8.4v pack in it is was faster than the DF01. Both running TBLE02S Esc. Only difference is radio gear, but can't see how that could be it? 

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On 19.11.2017 at 11:25 PM, TurnipJF said:

Are you using the stock plastic one or a metal upgrade? The stock plastic part has a big angled thing sticking out that makes it easy to see which way round it should be, but this is omitted from many metal ones, which can easily be put in the wrong way round.

I can not install the plastic stock motor mount in another way.

So I ordered an Alloy Motor Mount from GPMparts. I have the same one in my Manty Ray and it works fine. But in the Manta Ray I use the stock 21T pinion gear.

I will keep you updated

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On 19.11.2017 at 7:21 PM, tamiya3speed said:

Is it possible that the pinion grub screw is sticking out and hitting the spur?  I don't know much about the TT01 but I think the Top Force is 48 pitch metric.  Pinion pitch could be slightly off causing the noise.

Thanks for your idea. But the screw is fixed. No problem.

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8 minutes ago, hpergm said:

Just finished my Top Force Silver Bullet Special Edition B).

20171229_232223.jpg

20171229_232233.jpg

Looks good! DF03 wheels look great on it!

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Some pics under normal lighting. The idea behind the paintjob was to "hide" a little bit the extreme width of the shell by fading in a dark color at the tips of the side "winglets". PS-31 Smoke was used to create the fade, then finished off with the PS-21 Silver. The custom decals are from MCI Racing, using silver in lieu of the stock green.

Chassis-wise, the mods are limited to full bearings (incl. steering rack), DF03 wheels and tires, Tamiya turnbuckles for the top links, metal hexes for the wheels and the Re-re Hi Cap shocks. Aluminum knuckles are on order. Power is from an 8.5T Team Orion Brushless*. Steering by Savox (the great 1258TG).

*The motor will shred the ball diffs, is there a gear diff transplant possibility?

20171230_084103.jpg

20171230_084046.jpg

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1 hour ago, hpergm said:

Some pics under normal lighting. The idea behind the paintjob was to "hide" a little bit the extreme width of the shell by fading in a dark color at the tips of the side "winglets". PS-31 Smoke was used to create the fade, then finished off with the PS-21 Silver. The custom decals are from MCI Racing, using silver in lieu of the stock green.

Chassis-wise, the mods are limited to full bearings (incl. steering rack), DF03 wheels and tires, Tamiya turnbuckles for the top links, metal hexes for the wheels and the Re-re Hi Cap shocks. Aluminum knuckles are on order. Power is from an 8.5T Team Orion Brushless*. Steering by Savox (the great 1258TG).

*The motor will shred the ball diffs, is there a gear diff transplant possibility?

20171230_084103.jpg

20171230_084046.jpg

That looks awesome. Never been a fan of the Top Force shell myself (hence building my DF01 this year with a Terra Conqueror) but that is by far the best looking I have seen.

Gear diffs are super easy. All the other DF01 buggies run gear diffs. Just search for the Manta Ray manual and check the part numbers for the gear diff parts bags, or eBay for used items if you want. When I bought the TA02 plastic Touring Car gear set to replace the aluminium spur gears it can with with ball diff and gear diff casings on the sprue.

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Excellent tip, many thanks! Actually I also forgot to mention the touring car gear set I installed to get rid of the aluminum spur gear. I will look for the gear diff option there. Ran the car this morning and the "slippery whine" was there allright... Will pull wheelies with the gear diff.

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11 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

That looks awesome. Never been a fan of the Top Force shell myself (hence building my DF01 this year with a Terra Conqueror) but that is by far the best looking I have seen.

Gear diffs are super easy. All the other DF01 buggies run gear diffs. Just search for the Manta Ray manual and check the part numbers for the gear diff parts bags, or eBay for used items if you want. When I bought the TA02 plastic Touring Car gear set to replace the aluminium spur gears it can with with ball diff and gear diff casings on the sprue.

I've been running a 9.5t brushless with 2c lipos and I've had absolutely no problems with my ball diffs in my top force! Infact I never give it a thought that it will destroy them, an alloy motor mout is a must though :D

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I picked up my second Top Force today.  Was on the shelf at the shop for a while so he went $175 plus tax!

Now I need to build one of them.

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Looks amazing, can’t wait to build mine!

Tamiya still make the motor mount, right? The same one that fits the Porsche TA02.

 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292289761368

 

I read elsewhere that it’s hard to match the motor with the pinion teeth count since the Tamiya piece doesn’t have it stamped on the mount, but I assume the Top Force manual (or new Porsche?) would show it. 

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So when I was young I had a Top Force.

I now have a 2017 Top Force kit on the way :D

My original one was secondhand and pink, I always wanted a green shell but never got one. This one will be green.

sketch-1515094371669.png

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I haven't seen anyone talk about it on here so for anyone that isn't aware, you can now get a re-released version of the manta ray torque splitter if you want to get your top force a little bit closer to evo spec, the part number is 47395, I've just put one in mine and am interested to see what difference it makes.

I know there is divided opinion on whether it's actually an improvement or not but I still think it's a cool part to have, and considering the original ones usually go for around £50 it's nice to be able to try one for a reasonable price.

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