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M 800STD

TA03F Pro Al parts

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Couldn't wait any longer, so I made a start.  By the looks of things, the amount of parts being replaced is so vast that I could build another, stock, TA03F Pro.

Little bit irritated by one of the parts received, battery plate.  It had delaminated.

WP_20170207_19_24_33_Pro.jpg

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Looking good👍

I hopped up my tl01 and ended up only using a handful of standard parts! so built another one😊

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yeah it's easy to piece together on 03 from hopups, no need donor to start from

for 03 diehard addicts like us anyway :rolleyes:

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On ‎07‎.‎02‎.‎2017 at 1:31 AM, M 800STD said:

@Mokei Kagaku

I forgot to ask, apparently there were white anti-roll bars, hard.  Do you know the part number please?

I'm not entirely sure, but it's likely that they never had an official Tamiya item number. At least not a 5-digit one (if at all, possibly 7-/8-digit). In theory, it could be 49080 or 49081 though. These two item numbers are generally considered not used and though I have searched extensively, I've never found any information about why they were either unused, supposed to be used for or actually were used for. Considered what the parts right before and after 49080 and 49081 were and when they were released, the time would fit, if nothing else.  If anything, it's clear that they didn't have a 50xxx-, 53xxx- or other 49xxx-number.  A 92xxx-, 93xxx- or 94xxx-number would in theory be possible. Would love to know as I'm constantly filling holes in my Tamiya "database" and have done so for 3 1/2+ decades..

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@svenb

Cheers.  Now another agonising wait for required parts to arrive.

@WillyChang

With the Hop-Ups coming with ball joints/hinges/screws, dismantling the other car was unnecessary.  Having said that, no front C hub hinges were included and the front GPM gearbox was supplied with incorrect hinges, length.  So I'll have to purchase hinge set.

I have decided that the new TA03F will be built on new ball diffs, where as the old car will have the geared diff and one way.

Oh, here's a pic of the damaged part that I was told was acceptable by vendor.  I disagree.

WP_20170207_16_56_05_Pro.jpg

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@Mokei Kagaku

Thanks for checking.  I only know of its existence from a JP site, I'll try and find it as I did not save it.

Wow, populating for over 35 years,  have you got much more to populate?

With regards to required parts, things have changed so parts list has changed.  I'll let you know as soon as I can.  Thanks for your help.  :)

 

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1 hour ago, M 800STD said:

Oh, here's a pic of the damaged part that I was told was acceptable by vendor.  I disagree.

WP_20170207_16_56_05_Pro.jpg

This should be the protective film on that part which is hard to remove. On my TA-03-parts it broke several times and came off piece by piece.

As I remember all Tamiya TA-03 Carbon parts have this protective film.

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@ernieks

This is not a protective film, in the sense of product protection.

It has delaminated, as fibres are now exposed.  Either way this is unacceptable.

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As I received my TA-03 Carbon parts from Seidel there was a sticker on the packing which said "Caution protective film, remove". Well, handwritten by themselves in german language.

My parts looked perfect after removing this film.

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To be honest it sounds like they are trying to cover themselves.

Had Tamiya printed this anywhere on the item or packaging, then this would be a different matter.

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14 hours ago, M 800STD said:

@Mokei Kagaku

Thanks for checking.  I only know of its existence from a JP site, I'll try and find it as I did not save it.

Wow, populating for over 35 years,  have you got much more to populate?

With regards to required parts, things have changed so parts list has changed.  I'll let you know as soon as I can.  Thanks for your help.  :)

 

If I remember correctly, I believe I saw the white stabilizers the first (and possibly only) time on TRF's "speed record" TA03R-S. It had the 911 GT1 body and a full lexan "bellypan" with the shape of the body to keep air out. Vmax was a bit more than 90kmh. We're talking late '90's with brushed motors and NiCd/NiMH's, so though not a world record for RC-models, it was rather impressive at that time.  TRF also tried with similar but twin-motor TA03F which was a bit faster, but not looking as cool.

 

As for my Tamiya "database", it's a neverending job.  In the beginning, when I based everything on handwritten lists, I didn't care much about the small details and mainly focused on getting item numbers and item names correct. Didn't even care about the release years! As the lists for the different product ranges became relatively complete and when converting them from Word to Excel 15-16 years ago, going into details became more interesting and feasible and I reckon it still could keep me busy for many years as fulltime "job".  The Mini 4WD's is the toughest challenge. Based on the official catalogs, guide books and Perfect Albums, it's not so extensive, but because of all the colour variants without official item numbers and special editions of Mini 4WD models or kits with bonus parts where Tamiya didn't change the "base" item numbers, I don't think I will ever manage to record them all.

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10 hours ago, M 800STD said:

To be honest it sounds like they are trying to cover themselves.

Had Tamiya printed this anywhere on the item or packaging, then this would be a different matter.

I don't think so. Seidel is a very honest and reliable guy, and all parts came out quite perfectly after remiving that film.

I have no doubt that his hint on the TA-03 parts is correct allthough handwritten on them.

Maybe you get in contact to Seidel to ask if its correct that way. 

I don't think your part is damaged.

 

ernieks

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Far from it.  I am not calling Seidel dishonest.

This is not how the part came from factory, the film was placed on it for a reason, just like the chassis and other fibre parts - protection of the fibre.

Like I said, Tamiya did not state it's a protective film that should be removed.

Although the part will still function if film is removed, its durability comes into question.

I think we'll have to agree to disagree. 

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@Mokei Kagaku

With regards to those white ARB, there was only one article/reference to it, so it does suggest home market/limited edition?  Would love to see a pic of the twin motor TRF, if you have one.

Are you doing the database for only battery powered wheeled vehicles?

Surely working for Tamiya, there must be an abundance of material/information available to you to help complete your task?

Either way, that's going to be one heck of a database, so useful to the Tamiya enthusiasts.

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I've had a couple of those carbon battery plates and both have suffered the same thing - I don't think you'll ever find one which isn't peeling at the edges. You could clear lacquer spary it for a shiny finish if that's the objective. You need to appreciate how old these bits are now! 

Reading this thread has reminded me how I haven't touched my TA03 collection in over a year. I can't decide whether to sell up or box up and store away for a few more years. 

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I usually superglue edges of all CF soon as its unwrapped, don't recall anything peeling off lately.

yeah 03s haven't got much real need nor purpose at this time & they're taking up a lot of space... but they're just too cool not to have any around ^_^

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I will lacquer/resin top surface and flatten part.

Yeah I know it's an old part, but other fibre parts, from this era, have not suffered like this. 

It was very evident rom the beginning, looking at the packaging, that this had been stored in a damp place.  Moisture damage.

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Too much of a coincidence for it to happened to so many different people though - mine on three occasions - two battery plates and one carbon steering bar (also for TA03, so perhaps from the same manufacturing process?) 

Either way it's not going to affect the performance of the part. Not that it serves as much! 

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10 hours ago, M 800STD said:

It was very evident rom the beginning, looking at the packaging, that this had been stored in a damp place.  Moisture damage.

You might be right. I've washed some CF plates in (too)hot water and the glossy layer went cloudy :blink:

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Trust me I know a little about laminates.  ;)

My other discipline is RC powerboats, where composites and fabrication plays a large part in the hobby.

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How well does CF survive routinely submerged in water?

Had a friend who owned a catamaran, he was always 'glassing the damned thing. Always thought he can't have done that much damage every time he takes it out, bumping on the trailer, running over wild dolphins etc etc :lol:

 

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Fine, no problems, if it's been properly manufactured.

I use CK and never had an issue with ingress of water into material.

CF should be the same if laminating is done correctly.

The hulls I have are incredibly rigid, multi layered and braced, therefore minimal flex - no cracking.

 

 

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A quick update to what's been happening, which is not a lot.  Been trying to find relevant parts, waiting for parts and getting sent incorrect parts.  This must be the longest car build I've ever done.

So back to Al parts.  Firstly I would like to chat about the RCDampers lower gearboxes which I ordered for the build.  Note, I have only assembled the front so far.  First observation was the hinge pins supplied were too long, so some correct length items were ordered.  Other customers have noticed the same thing.  It's not detrimental, but I'm fussy.  Also when fitting the upper and lower cases, they needed a little positioning and squeezing together before both parts located with each other.  It did not fit like a glove.  They did screw together ok and only ok.  My only thought was how much was the plastic case was being stressed?  I don't think too much but wonder how easily this will cracked on impact.  With cases together, front only, I take a look at it, from the side and noticed it's not sealed, ie, I can see light coming from the other side.  I suppose a bit of silicone when assembling cases will sort this.  I left mine.

Now onto the Tamiya C hubs and steering knuckles, which were assembled with the Hop-Up king pins and 850 bearings.  There was 0.3mm play, which does not sound a lot, but visually is a different case.   Maybe because I was using the bearings instead of bushings?  So when assembling the steering, x2 0.1mm shims were placed in the upper C hubs recess for the bearings, before bearings fitted.  x1 0.1mm shim was used in lower C hub recess.  Now they are perfect.

I also used 850 bearings on the steering arms.  This went together fine, without the need for shims.

In trying to lose some weight, I opted for the Tobee Craft steering assembly and front bumper.  I did de-anodise them and would only recommend this with none complex parts, as this was not as easy as YouTube makes out.

One other thought that I'll be acting on is the looseness of the anti roll bar ends in the Al parts.  This is not right.  I've found some appropriate sized heat shrink tube which will be used as bushing.  I have tested and again, perfect.

The only other things I've done is smoothed over front gearbox and lightened upper FRP plate.

@WillyChang

Well Wills, I've done as you perscribed, staying with ball instead of geared diffs.  Couldn't resist, I saw x20 3mm ceramic bearings for $7, including shipping.

Both diffs, new, were assembled as per instruction with x16 ceramic bearings and fully tightened.

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took a few mins to work out what... ahh you mean ceramic balls, not whole bearing

:lol: you know "ceramic" is usually harder than mild steel, so they'll likely eat into the diff rings faster... diff ring spares probably not as easy to find as spare 3mm balls which are plenty generic... :rolleyes:

meh don't lose sleep, plenty of TA03 balldiff sets out there still ^_^

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