DF-01 recomendations

[Saito2]

I've been debating getting the upcoming Top Force re-re-re(?) as a runner since I never could bring myself to run my 2006 model. I looked over at the shelf and saw a DF-01 chassis (Dirt Thrasher originally, I think) looking forlorn after three years of collecting dust and thought maybe I should just get it up and running again instead. It has the following hop ups : all-plastic gear set, alloy motor mount, alloy prop shaft upgrade and bearings. Here's what I've been thinking of adding:

Alloy front knuckles

Alloy ball bearing bellcrank steering (for tub chassis)

Manta Ray rear ball diff

I plan on running a Trinity 17T Amber Speedgem motor or Tamiya Superstock BZ motor. I've read the rear ball diff might give a little "cushion" to the drivetrain since there are no slipper clutches for the DF-01. Are there any other concerns or good additions? Or should I just buy the Top Force when it comes out? Thanks.

[WillyChang]

Don't need alloy knuckles, don't need alloy cranks... never broken plastics.

Alloy front shock tower is good though  plastic breaks too easily, takes long time to replace & can only buy it in a big sprue with lots of other unneeded parts.

Don't really need balldiff (& associated maintenance), if you run off-road drivetrain is plenty strong.

CVDs would be higher up my priority list. But dogbones work too, long as they're not the plastic white ball originals... I upcycled some DF03 all-steel bones into a MantaRay and that's been going fine so far. 

[WillyChang]

If you're RACING however, TopForce kit would be cheaper way to get FRP chassis and adjustable arms than to start with MantaRay and adding bits.  

[Saito2]

You're not helping my addiction with the Top Force prodding . The knuckles I considered from remembering an old post by TerrySC (I think). The question was raised about racing Tamiya's and it was pointed out that there was a ton of slop in the steering/suspension vs competitors' cars. It was also stated that the red plastic knuckles were shatter-prone. However, if you've never broken any and I haven't either, maybe I'll skip the knuckles. The steering kit was more my idea to get rid of the Z-bend cross rod, which I'm not a fan of. If the drivetrain is strong enough off-road, I'll skip the rear ball diff too. What brand of CVDs do you recommend? I do have full steel dogbones in there, but wouldn't mind some front CVDs or universals.

[WillyChang]

I don't think there's much differences to CVD performance when it comes to MantaRay  just get the cheapest, probably YeahRacing?

its not like needing uber big angles or double cardan jointed... have paid ridiculous amounts for jap specialty CVDs 

[waterbok]

Now that the TF gets a rere the change to score a cheap used one (approx 90$) might be more interesting than upgrading the DF01.

You already got the necesary bits to make the DF  better besides the alloy steering but I didnt miss that much on mine.

Better tires and then you are all set.

[Jason1145]

I'm currently running the white ball end dog bones without issue so far but I've only managed 5 runs on my Manta Ray, just had a run cut short thanks to a front camberlink screw backing out spitting the dog bone out at my feet which was handy for finding it.

It is quite nippy though on 3900kv and 2s lipo, the brute force of throttle to braking and back again is a sight to behold with the rear squatting and then the front dipping.

Are the following an upgrade over the stock white ball ended dog bones?

Tamiya Drive Shafts (2 Pcs.), Part No's. 9805551 

Total length 76.5mm

Pin to Pin Length 70mm

 

[Jason1145]

21 minutes ago, waterbok said:

 

Better tires and then you are all set.

Any recommendations for tarmac running tyres,  I'm wearing down the nobbily ones quickly.

[WillyChang]

1 hour ago, Jason1145 said:

Any recommendations for tarmac running tyres,  I'm wearing down the nobbily ones quickly.

Just for bashing around, take a tip from BlazingStar and fit any CC01 tyre onto touringcar wheels  HiLift tyres also ok. They will last forever, lots of slippy slides fun going sideways 

Can't help ye if you actually want grip  some Proline RoadHawgs perhaps' do they still make em?

[WillyChang]

1 hour ago, Jason1145 said:

Are the following an upgrade over the stock white ball ended dog bones?

Tamiya Drive Shafts (2 Pcs.), Part No's. 9805551 

Total length 76.5mm

Pin to Pin Length 70mm

 

Guess so! from Jr-rc

Quote

9805551 Tamiya Thunder Shot Top Force Manta Ray DF-03 Drive Shaft, 2pc

Tamiya Thundershot Drive Shaft Set, 2pc. Parts SP336/50336/19805551

Also for the Thunder Dragon, Terra Scorcher, Fire Dragon, Manta Ray, Top Force, Blitzer Beetle, Stadium Blitzer, Bear Hawk, Terra Conqueror & Stadium Thunder

I just stole mine from the DF03 leftovers.

[waterbok]

1 hour ago, Jason1145 said:

Any recommendations for tarmac running tyres,  I'm wearing down the nobbily ones quickly.

Carson all terrain rears

Or tamiya DF03 wheels

 

 

[Jason1145]

39 minutes ago, waterbok said:

Carson all terrain rears

Or tamiya DF03 wheels

 

 

Just remembered I have a set of DF03 tyres as shown above, do they resist wearing on concrete well? My Manta Ray spins it tyres quite aggressively  

[WillyChang]

those tyres with mini bars in the middle aren't stock Dark Impact tyres; kit tyres are mini pins in a pretty hard compound. Hard wearing but still wouldn't last long on Tarmac.

mini bars & micro bowties looks like some Proline?

[waterbok]

Second pic are dual blocks, maybe the carsons are better for concrete bashing (cheaper anyhow)

[Dojo Dave]

1 hour ago, WillyChang said:

those tyres with mini bars in the middle aren't stock Dark Impact tyres; kit tyres are mini pins in a pretty hard compound. Hard wearing but still wouldn't last long on Tarmac.

mini bars & micro bowties looks like some Proline?

They look like what came on my dark impact. 

[WillyChang]

hmmm.... black or white?

did they change the tyres for white?

I've got a black DI and a set of black wheels with the black pic's stiff rubber. There is a noticeable valley right in the middle of the tread.

whereas the white DI has mini bars filling up the middle, no valley

odd!