Newby Needs cc01 Steering Upgrade Advice

[guitarman]

Hi All

So I have ordered the steel pinion for my Pajero Rally but now It seems I need a decent steering setup in place of the stock

parts that come with the kit.

I watched a youtube video about a certain upgrade and the thing fell to bits first time out.

Unlike you guys I don't have a bits box that I can dive into everything I need I have to buy.

Again any advice appreciated.

Thanks

Alan

 

[yogi-bear]

I am also new to CC01 and also like you want to upgrade the steering. From watching way too many youtube videos I've opted to reverse the hubs and put the steering out the front, and direct linking them, something like the video below. It seems to give the least amount of slope and the greatest range from what I could find.

 

 

Edited February 10, 2017 by yogi-bear
linked to wrong video

[guitarman]

Hi Yogi

Looks like a good fix thank you and it saves spending money on something that

may or may not work.

Alan

 

[TurnipJF]

From what I have read/heard, the GPM ballraced steering assembly only falls apart if you forget to use threadlock. If properly threadlocked during assembly, it works superbly.

[WillyChang]

You've barely built the thing & you're already committed to severe amputation - lopping off the whole front "brick"??!?  

Doing direct steering has its own issues... like bump steer & uneven throw depending on suspension position.

i buy GPM's steering rack with ballbearing supported shaft, works great no hacking. That shaft piece is 3 alloy bits bolted together... don't be stingy on the loctite and it'll stay together fine.

Stock plastic parts is a fat tapered tube turning in a tapered pipehole. Dirt gets in and wears/jams... unlike 1:1s even though it's tapered they haven't provided any way to take out the slop... so just replacing the tube with alloy version won't cure much if the pipehole in chassis is enlarged.

trim off the lock limiting nubs on the c-hubs and there's ample lock; any more than that you'll definitely need CVDs to negotiate the angle.

[guitarman]

Thanks Guys

Yes I have not even started the build yet and I am doing mods.

I like to have all the parts needed to hand before I start then there are no holdups.

I was looking at this  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROCK-CRAWLER-CNC-Billet-Steering-Assembly-For-Tamiya-CC01-RC-G7-/121526502535?hash=item1c4b8b4487:g:ZHQAAOSw0kNXhDsl

What do you think?

Alan

 

[GooneyBird]

That's exactly what I did with my Pajero. I used the GPM steering set from new, so everything was nice and snug from the word go. 

Later I trimmed off the steering limiters and installed CVDs at the same time. Along with a set of ball bearings my car is completely stock, and perfectly capable of what I expect it to do. 

[guitarman]

Looks like I will order the GPM CC048 SET then.

Should I build with the stock parts to start with or wait till the new parts arrive.

Decisions Decisions

Alan

 

[tamiya3speed]

The GPM set can be real hit or miss.  I had one where the long rod was not made long enough so if the bolts were tightened it would lock the steering up.  A second set I bought wasn't as bad. I have the Hot Racing set-up here to try out when my Metaltop Wide comes in hoping that works better.

[yogi-bear]

1 minute ago, tamiya3speed said:

The GPM set can be real hit or miss.  I had one where the long rod was not made long enough so if the bolts were tightened it would lock the steering up.  A second set I bought wasn't as bad. I have the Hot Racing set-up here to try out when my Metaltop Wide comes in hoping that works better.

Thats the impression I'd gotten from searching. Although I agree the option I've settled does involve a lot of hacking which may not be everyones cup of tea. 

Would love to see how you go with gpm upgrade guitarman. Are you planning any other mods?

[WillyChang]

14 minutes ago, guitarman said:

Looks like I will order the GPM CC048 SET then.

Should I build with the stock parts to start with or wait till the new parts arrive.

It's fine to build without it. Only a 5min job to retrofit it later on... oh ok maybe 6mins if you've gotta undo the ballscrews from the plastic bits  I just use new ones

1st Rule with Loctite (& I use the RED Permanent type!!) is DO NOT RUN CAR UNTIL ITS CURED! This can take a while, longer if cold... leave it overnight where possible.

[GooneyBird]

I used a bit of Tamiya locktite on mine. It's fine, and has been for the last 6 months. I built mine from new with a few mods, and the 5mm low friction ball cups and 5mm ball adjusters work well together and create a basically slop-free steering setup. 

[guitarman]

Thanks again everyone

It must be boring answering all the basic questions but I do appreciate it.

No other upgrades planned I just want to start the build maybe the next one will have more.

I may get a roof rack for it but that does not alter the running of the car.

Now I need to decide where to get the steering kit from.

Alan

 

[WillyChang]

18 minutes ago, tamiya3speed said:

The GPM set can be real hit or miss.  I had one where the long rod was not made long enough so if the bolts were tightened it would lock the steering up.  A second set I bought wasn't as bad. I have the Hot Racing set-up here to try out when my Metaltop Wide comes in hoping that works better.

I've had 5 maybe 6 of them come thru here over the years... earliest is probably getting on 12-15yrs old? Latest one arrived week before.

They're CNC'd so I'd expect it's pretty unlikely that their machine would accidentally cut a shaft too short 

What can happen, and IMHO more likely to have happened, is those nylon bearing holder that bungs into the chassis pipe... they're not easy to install, it's quite easy dent the lip of chassis tube so when you do get them in they don't sit flush as they should. So when you bolt on the cranks, shaft is "too short" 

The nylon bungs are so stiff in a new chassis tube, when you tighten the screws the nylon don't move but instead you crush the poor tiny 850 ballbearings and dislodge the balls out of their race.

If it's your first time doing it & you enjoy doing it right, swap the 850 bearings for the bronze bushings leftover from your kit. Use those to dry-assemble the shaft & levers, now you can safely crank down on the screws and use them to help you seat the nylon bungs fully.

i also toss the GPM Phillips screws for hexdrive buttonheads in hi-tensile steel or stainless. GPM's screws probably work ok if I never intend dismantling again, but hex heads give better assurance I can get mine out again later on.

[TurnipJF]

43 minutes ago, guitarman said:

 

Now I need to decide where to get the steering kit from.

Alan

 

There are quite a few clones of the GPM steering kit out there, some better than others, but Asiatees sell genuine ones that come with a guarantee.

[tamiya3speed]

While I would tend to agree that the machining should stay accurate, the inability to tighten down the assembly was certainly my experience.  The other kit I had worked fine, I was able to get it right with no issues.  This was on a new chassis.  There were a couple of easy solutions to make the fit better but I already had the other kit so just put the one to the side.