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Buggyjam

Lowered Clod project - progress - End result

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Evening

 

Im working on this project. I'm lowering my Clod. I've removed all the chassis from underneath at the front and rear so the transmission can ride up inside. I'm (when I work out how to bolt it together) going to use CPE axle servo mounts. The main thing is the chassis needed some serious bracing. I've fabbed up some chassis plates, some internal chassis rails and 2 aluminium radio decks that will sit either end.  The chassis is now really solid, no twisting. Thought I'd share a pic!  There is still some surgery to do each front right side of lower chassis just behind the front panel to allow servo to move.

 

Got some top advice on here from posters re drilling metal so thought I'd share the results. 

 

http://IMG_0125_zpsgjigdrgq.jpg

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That thing now looks indestructible, good job. Didn't you consider painting the aluminum parts black to match the stock chassis?

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Nicely done, original idea too, not seen anything like it before. How did get around the drilling problems in the end ?

 

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28 minutes ago, mongoose1983 said:

That thing now looks indestructible, good job. Didn't you consider painting the aluminum parts black to match the stock chassis?

That is a gray idea Mongoose! I might well consider that. No experience of painting metal but got half an idea it involves etch primer. I hate the look of flaky metal though so would not want it to flake too easily :D

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39 minutes ago, MadInventor said:

Nicely done, original idea too, not seen anything like it before. How did get around the drilling problems in the end ?

 

Ah thanks Mad inventor. It came about really as I was considering how to eliminate the torsion. A bit is alright I suppose but once I removed the chassis parts it was too much. I realised the axles with individual servos weigh a stack and thinking about it it occurred that the twisting load would be massive. Like 2 pendulums on a strip of flimsy plastic. The extra weight isn't really a problem as it's not too much heavier due a lot of chassis bits being removed. Plus I have dual lipos and dual escs ready to go in :-). The lipos will sit side by side in the centre, secured by Velcro turnigy  straps that will run through the chassis rails (need to mill out a channel each side). I've some adhesive backed neoprene for lipo padding in that area.

 

I basically followed the advice from the thread re drilling, there was a link posted for a second hand pillar drill from eBay. It turned out perfect as I was catching a flight into east mids and the chap lived ten mins away so I picked it up on the way home after the flight.. I also took the advice about buying decent cobalt  drill bits from somewhere like tool station rather than eBay. I bought tool station bits, put them in my drill. I researched cutting speeds for aluminium with the bit size and changed the belt on the drill to run at max (2650 rpm),  plus used a spray coolant (all of £3 a tin) just to be sure and it went through like silk. So different from the problems I was having before.

 

i want a brace for the link box at the bottom. CPE do a nice one but with shipping and imports charges it's prohibitive. I'd quite like to make my own. Next deal is getting a decent bend on the metal that conforms to the chassis. 

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So now you've got a good pillar drill can I suggest you look at one of these:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-4-inch-cross-vice-ccv4c/?da=1&TC=GS-040314016&gclid=CMz81dqxk9ICFYQ4GwodVqsKBg

and one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-150mm-Digital-LCD-Silver-Vernier-Caliper-Micrometer-Gauge-Stainless-Steel-/182130396879?hash=item2a67d14ecf:g:rUIAAOSwdV1XNjFO

This allows you easily position an item for drilling, and it also makes it easier to drill patterns of holes.

You can use the vice to move your workpiece through the X and Y axis, and use the calipers to accurately measure the amount of movement of the vice.

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4 minutes ago, MadInventor said:

So now you've got a good pillar drill can I suggest you look at one of these:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-4-inch-cross-vice-ccv4c/?da=1&TC=GS-040314016&gclid=CMz81dqxk9ICFYQ4GwodVqsKBg

and one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-150mm-Digital-LCD-Silver-Vernier-Caliper-Micrometer-Gauge-Stainless-Steel-/182130396879?hash=item2a67d14ecf:g:rUIAAOSwdV1XNjFO

This allows you easily position an item for drilling, and it also makes it easier to drill patterns of holes.

You can use the vice to move your workpiece through the X and Y axis, and use the calipers to accurately measure the amount of movement of the vice.

Thanks! Smashing link, that adjustable vice looks fantastic. I wish I had that today ha. 

I was muddling through with some g clamps for the table. A right pain. Tool station tried to find a basic non adjustable vice that fitted my drill table but theirs were too large for my Clarke (we went out to the car with some to try as it was in the boot after I bought it :-). That adjustable vice would make life so much easier.

 

I do have some digi verniers. What's the best way to bend alu sheet through 90 degrees? I've only a small modelling vice. I see some sort of angle things you can buy to fit larger vices.

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I've not had much success with trying to bend aluminium through 90 degrees, it usually splits along the bend for me. Depending on the size you require though, B&Q sell several different types of aluminium section (Right angle, c section, box section, etc) in different sizes, so that might be suitable.

 

PS, I don't know if the cross vice will fit your pillar drill, I posted the link as an example of the tool. There are I believe, smaller 3" ones available as well, you'll need to do some research.

 

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4 hours ago, MadInventor said:

I've not had much success with trying to bend aluminium through 90 degrees, it usually splits along the bend for me. Depending on the size you require though, B&Q sell several different types of aluminium section (Right angle, c section, box section, etc) in different sizes, so that might be suitable.

 

PS, I don't know if the cross vice will fit your pillar drill, I posted the link as an example of the tool. There are I believe, smaller 3" ones available as well, you'll need to do some research.

 

Thanks, I'll double check the specs before 

mm, that's what I thought re the splitting. 

 

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Nice job on the chassis.  I've not seen anyone modify and brace the plastic like that before.  It looks like a good alternative to buying the Mod Clod chassis.

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46 minutes ago, speedy_w_beans said:

Nice job on the chassis.  I've not seen anyone modify and brace the plastic like that before.  It looks like a good alternative to buying the Mod Clod chassis.

That's what I thought, particularly the 90degree angle aluminium running the length of the chassis. If the cross braces were drilled to lighten them then it wouldn't add much weight to the chassis either

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Eh up. Just thought I'd add more progress, just in case anyone is fiddling with clods and sharing of ideas. The radio decks are in. They need their various bits and bobs fitting. Also removed is a chassis section on each front right side to allow servo translation. This is on top of the whole underside of the plastic chassis being removed to allow the transmission to ride inside. Other things done was to tailor the shorter Tamiya cross brace on each axle as it was fouling the shock on each right side (it's shorter than the other side so angled more acutely). I've made some silicone rubber bushings to go around the 3mm bolts for the shocks to allow flex as the shocks don't come with ball heads (neither do Tamiya stock actually)

I was contemplating the good idea suggested above re painting the plates but then it occurred to me it would end up flaking off and looked chipped,  plus the alu is under the body. I don't actually mind the two tone look really. I'm torn so I'll give it some thought. Once the body im putting on is secured all the visible running gear will be black except the shocks. 

 

Cheers!

http://IMG_0127_zpsip7q7qlk.jpg

 

 

 

 

Ignore the wonky servo horn and dodgy screw, and loose wiring, that's not final rigged, it's just for checking. 

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Problems editing last post to insert this image via iPad so just another. I made a gap in the radio decks deliberately to make a conduit for wiring without too sharp an angle from below. I'm to pad out the edges to run the leads so they don't wear.  http://IMG_0128_zpsnamuyudd.jpg

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Good job.

Little has been said the Chevrolet bodyshell helped the resistance of the Clod Buster's bathtub chassis working as one large brace itself when sitting over the original bodyposts. I suppose with all that heavy bracing you're going to use some interesting lexan body. Am I wrong?

On 16/2/2017 at 8:21 PM, Buggyjam said:

That is a gray idea Mongoose! I might well consider that. No experience of painting metal but got half an idea it involves etch primer. I hate the look of flaky metal though so would not want it to flake too easily :D

I have had great results painting metal bits with spray enamel that's specific for plastics, the type of paint that works on the plastic covers of 1:1 car wheels. Without any primer that thing sticks to aluminum very very good. And believe me, the thing is going to look fantastic.

Keep up the good work ;)

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7 minutes ago, mongoose1983 said:

Good job.

Little has been said the Chevrolet bodyshell helped the resistance of the Clod Buster's bathtub chassis working as one large brace itself when sitting over the original bodyposts. I suppose with all that heavy bracing you're going to use some interesting lexan body. Am I wrong?

I have had great results painting metal bits with spray enamel that's specific for plastics, the type of paint that works on the plastic covers of 1:1 car wheels. Without any primer that thing sticks to aluminum very very good. And believe me, the thing is going to look fantastic.

Keep up the good work ;)

 

Cheers Mongoose, that's a very good point re the stock body. And you're right, I'm going to put a Proline vintage pickup lexan body on.  I'm still going to paint my original body so I can swap or just admire it, seems a shame to have such a thing sitting in the box after all.

 

thats very good to know, I may well go down that route as nothing is loketited yet so I can take it off and paint it up.

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Keep the hardbody, Buggyjam. Once you're done with this project knowing you have that nice one available is going to push you to go try something interesting with it, like working on some custom chassis for example :)

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7 minutes ago, mongoose1983 said:

Keep the hardbody, Buggyjam. Once you're done with this project knowing you have that nice one available is going to push you to go try something interesting with it, like working on some custom chassis for example :)

Oh now you've done it. You've seeded an idea :-)). That's how this mess started ha

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38 minutes ago, mongoose1983 said:

That's really cool. I remember watching the fall guy!  I follow a guy on YouTube who builds rc "rat rods" and he builds his own chassis'. It looks like welding is in order with the step frames and not something I've ever done, especially small welding.  I wonder how they make real truck chassis with those curves?

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Some update photos on the lowered Clod.

 

Cut some keys in the chassis rails to take battery straps for double lipo. Fitted neoprene padding on chassis sides under rails to strap batteries against. Mounted the radio. It's got 2 escs, 2 lipos. In the switched on photo only the front esc is on. I've also fitted a lipo alarm which is visible at the front as that's the battery that also powers the Bec and servos.

 

Wheels have had 3 extra 3mm air holes drilled out on the inside for extra squishiness (tip from reading clodtalk)

 

IMG_0146.JPG

IMG_0147.JPG

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A brief mock up with the standard body. I've another body planned but I'm going to keep the original

 

IMG_0149.JPG

IMG_0151.JPG

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The truck looks much more realistic, good job. That's as much suspension travel as mid 80's monster trucks used to have! ;)

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