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tamiya wrc

On road touring car chassis

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Hello! ...I am searching for new unassembled chassis with follow specification:
- electric touring on road car 1:10, slick tyres for outside tarmac surface
- 2CH radio system
- 2S 7.4V Lipoly battery
- possible to mount: standard size servo motor not low profile!, hobbyking brushless sensored 60A ESC with combo motor 8.5T 4000kV, tamiya body kit dimension
- if possible: fiber chassis, adjustable oil filled shocks, adjustable wheel alignment, oil filled rear and back gear differencial, belt drive 4WD layout (not necessary)
- comes with a clear body, masking tape and decals - I already have nod.gif

Please give me advice about some good chassis for reasonable price...I am thinking about 150-250EUR nod.gif

I know that I am on Tamiya club site but still...what do you think which chassis is better and why Tamiya TA07 Pro or BSR BT-4? ...maybe you have some other idea about the chassis in this price range...thanks.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/tamiya-ta07-pro-1-10-scale-touring-car-kit.html

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/bsr-bt-4-1-10-4wd-touring-car-un-assembled-kit.html

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2 hours ago, TwistedxSlayer said:

TT02 Type R

TA07 pro is also a good choice. 

Hello! ...The first difference I noted that one is belt driven and other shaft driven...maybe is better to have a shaft because of wear of belt. In chassis TT02 type R can be used brushless motor with llipo battery which I mention in my post...thanks.

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On 11. 3. 2017 at 0:29 PM, TwistedxSlayer said:

Personally I prefer shaft driven.

Yes you can use brushless and lipo in the TT02R

Hello! ...I am not so sure that the TT02R chassis can handle brushless and lipo...I check into the manual there is mentioned only brushed motor...also the chassis TA07 Pro in manual is written brushless motor...but nothing about battery. On the picture of TA07 Pro is used Tamiya TBLM motor which input voltage is 6.6-7.2V...this is not Lipo battery it can be Ni-Cd, Ni-MH, and Li-Fe...so I am not sure that the chassis TA07 Pro can be drive on such powerful motors with lipo battery.
I like Tamiya chassis because thay are not already assembly other wise the most used chassis on some races are LRP or Traxxas...thanks.

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It can handle brushless, trust me,  many many many people run brushless in TT02

0.2v isn't going to make much if any difference. The TBLM can handle LiPo.

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The TA07 pro is a fast club level racer. The TT02S is good for a budget car but for only a few pounds more you get a much better specification of parts with the TA07.

Belt drive cars are very reliable. I have raced belt cars onroad for years and never broken a belt or had issues. They are smooth and easy to tune.

The BT4 is a good budget car, and it has a composite chassis plate. The quality is not the same as the TA07 but it is a quick car.

If it was down to me I would get the TA07 pro. It's become quite popular for people starting racing who want a new kit. There are a few racing at my local uk clubs and they are doing great.

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21 hours ago, qatmix said:

The TA07 pro is a fast club level racer. The TT02S is good for a budget car but for only a few pounds more you get a much better specification of parts with the TA07.

Belt drive cars are very reliable. I have raced belt cars onroad for years and never broken a belt or had issues. They are smooth and easy to tune.

The BT4 is a good budget car, and it has a composite chassis plate. The quality is not the same as the TA07 but it is a quick car.

If it was down to me I would get the TA07 pro. It's become quite popular for people starting racing who want a new kit. There are a few racing at my local uk clubs and they are doing great.

Hello! ...TA07 Pro chassis can handle this combo motor and battery (Hobbyking ESC 60A 4000kV 8.5T motor and 2S2P Lipo 4200 mAh)...because in specification is not mention anything about Lipo battery and I do not want to buy a chassis which I can damage with too powerfull motor...thanks.

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Club racing usually keeps to 13.5 which is really fast unless you do mod.  The ones I've seen (TA07's) have 13.5 or 17.5. All run 2cell lipo batteries.

There is no reason it will not handle 8.5, the diffs are strong (same as the TRF419X) and the drivetrain is very free. It will be much more capable of handling the power than the TT02.

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This is more of a budgetary choice with Tamiyas.

I would say the TT02 Type S rather than R due to the FRP parts and adjustable turnbuckles.

The standard TT02 (non S/R) is a definate no go as you need to spend £50+ on upgrades really (bearings, CVA shocks, turnbuckles and/or uprights etc).

Nothing wrong with a TT02 Type S/R and they will handle the brushless power of 4000kv or more without a problem. Also, the gear train is so cheap to replace when it does eventually wear it's not worth worrying about. 

The TA07 Pro is in a different class though. If you can afford it and want to stick with Tamiya then it is the obvious choice at the moment.

Price wise a TT02 Type S / R could be picked up for c100-120 euro and TA07 c200 euro last time I looked.

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Usually the issue isn't so much if the chassis can handle the power, it's whether the driver has enough room to correct any handling flaws that crop up using those amounts of power.

I mean, the pro's run 5.5t modified motors, but their cars are freshly built every run, and setup to a tee. And still I've heard Völker and Reinhard complain about tracks being too small with not enough runoff area in case something goes wrong.

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my chassis choice depends on surfaces I drive. On the clean track or clean parking lot I always drive my TA05 or TB04. On dirty ground the TT-02 has a big advantage with the closed gear box, however the TT-02 or even R is far apart concerning the handling quality to TA05-07 or TB 03-04 

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Hello!

I bought tamiya TA07 Pro chassis and before assembly I have some questions:
- in instructions I read "Make threads using Thread Forming Tap." (page 4)...what is your recommendation, do you use thread forming tap for making threads into plastic parts?
- the chassis set include the aluminium pinion gear 20T which is mounted on motor shaft...it is better to buy one from steel because I want to install 2S Lipo Hobbyking senzored brushless motor 4000kV 8.5T?
- what kind of rubber tyres with foam inserts do you recommend (they are not included into the kit)...maybe original tamiya item 53434 or 53435, etc., remember I want some quality rubber tyres with low wear...the chassis will be used on tarmac surface.

Thanks.

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Can use 3mm tap before screw but it's extra work. Screw can go in on its own if you're careful and take it slow. Some ppl grease the hole slightly but I don't bother. Fresh screws can get hot when entering new hole so I put them in most of the way then let them cool down before snugging them down fully.

Have never raced on Tamiya rubber "unless I have to" <_< (ie everyone else has to too). Most popular racing rubber is 24mm and there's not much choice of 24mm from T. Worse still, T's 24mm wheels are brittle and can't be reused.

There's better rubber for cheaper even from the fancy brand names; if you don't like gluing look for sets of premounts. 

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Hello!

Thanks for answer...so there won't be any damage of plastic parts if I don't use Thread Forming Tap...what about the pinion gear, which size should I use on TA07 Pro chassis...aluminium 20T which is already included in chassis set or someone else probably steel one?...as I say I will install combo motor Hobbyking 4000kV 8.5T...thanks.

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9 hours ago, tamiya wrc said:

Hello!

Thanks for answer...so there won't be any damage of plastic parts if I don't use Thread Forming Tap...

Plastics probably be ok, but if you're using Phillips screwdriver & stock screws only you'll probably more chance end up DAMAGING YOURSELF when screwdriver slips and stabs you somewhere soft :blink: I change to hexdrive screws, avoid phillips/posidrive/etc if I can

havent got a ta07 yet, but I'm sure the kit pinion will last long enough to run a few times for testing ;) 

if this model is like most previous higher end chassis, you should be able to fit a standard nonT spur gear so you're not limited to using only T's size of teeth (=04mod metric of their PRO cars past).

I usually run 48dp standard pitch gears & pinion as they're easier to find, bigger teeth survive stones better, more makers like Robinson, RW, Schumacher etc 

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Hello TA07 Pro experts!

I am assembly the TA07 Pro chassis and I have some question:
- I thought that this is a profesional chassis but there is so many plastic parts...even the pinion gear I think that is plastic? ...what is the life time of 20T pinion gear which is mounted on motor shaft...do I need to put some grease on plastic gears?
- the battery compartment...I have a battery https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-4200mah-2s2p-40-80c-hardcase-stick-pack.html?___store=en_us from some other project and it is not possible to mount it in chassis unless I do not disassembly some plastic carriers from chassis?
- attaching the body...there are some plastic carriers which are attach with snap pins, I understand that you put on this carriers body but you should probably put snap pins also from the other side because other wise the body will fall off during racing? ...I think that this plastic carriers with adjustable holes are for one hole to short for mounting the subaru impreza 2008 body kit?
- also for mounting ESC, receiver and standard size servo motor you need to be quite an expert fo find enough of space...smile
- do you maybe notice some leackage on differential which is filled with dumper oil?

Thanks.

 

 

 

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Much love for Tamiya but for on road touring car I have to pick the RC10 DS, then the XV-01 and last the TA07.

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