G6-01 ?

[Yonez 180]

Has anybody received the King Yellow yet?

I've got one on the way and I'd like to fit a full set of lights; 8 on the back, 6 on the front and maybe even all those tiny roof lights.

I need the diameters of the front and rear lights so that I can find a source for fitting light buckets. I'd like at least the front lights to be real chromed buckets.

Can anybody do a measurement of them?

 

What exists in terms of programmable controllers that can provide the correct lighting?

[joeling 1649]

Finally decided a to make a runner.

 

1) 10.5T BL motor + 100A esc

2) Diffs filled with Tamiya AW grease

3) Yeah racing long span arms

4) Gmade 62mm shocks front & Back. Yeah racing 60mm shocks for the middle (Gmade won't fit)

5) FRP battery plate

6) WR02 CVDs all round

 

Conclusion so far after 1 bash session mostly on outdoor tiles with some light jumping off stair

1) Servo saver is weak. Broke after I had a small accident. Replaced wiith Tamiya high torque unit. Hopefully will hold up

2) 4WS is not really needed. In fact, in stock 4WS configuration, the rear tires will catch the middle ones causing them to be stuck together & exerting extra pressure on the rear servo. Also renders the vehicle to chase its tail

3) If implementing 4WS, rear servo needs to be metal gear. Plastic will strip because of (2). Retard the rear movement to less than 50% travel

4) 10.5T rips and Gmade shocks with higher weight oil (80/60 F/R) jumps like a boss off 3 step of stairs

 

 

 

[taffer 948]

Tamiya via Mokei  😊 have announced some more bling for the G6-01

A smoke clear gearbox/chassis (like the gf-01 part of seems)

And yellow and orange gears for the above chassis

And an alloy skid plate......

[danb1974 93]

Seems that front bumper screws are as soft as the bumper itself. Wonder if this is a new trend to save a penny or two.

Just be prepared to rethink how you attach the bumper to the car...

[TurnipJF 9180]

Looking at the cost of G6-01 chassis mouldings, I'd far rather bend a bumper screw than crack a chassis. The more soft and squishable things in front of the chassis, the better I'd say.

[danb1974 93]

You have that big nice soft bumper and the two (way too) beefy springs. Yet, at first impact, the screws bend and get torn out (goodbye thread), instead of letting the other parts do their jobs.

I think they did not take into account the new weight of the 6x6 chassis when they borrowed the bumper from the smaller ones. (wr-02? or which one has the same bumper)

So, if you intend to bash a little, you have to rethink the whole thing.

[Biz73 603]

Not sure what you hit, but my kids and I have been bashing our Konghead since we got it, and haven't had an issue. It's hit trees, tumbled down stairs, and been run into plenty of other things. Maybe it hit just right, but I don't think this is a common problem.

[danb1974 93]

A sudden 2 inch descent, front bumper clipping the dirt at landing with one side. Hardly spectacular or extreme. Since bumper screws thread into extreme soft plastic, one screw was torn out and got lost, the other got bent (now using some sort of hardened alu for screws, steel is so yesterday?). No point in replacing screws, will happen again giving the bumper width and the two attaching points way too inside and far away from bumper ends.

I don't expect this to happen if you hit a frontal obstacle with the whole bumper, just when hitting with one end.

 

[Biz73 603]

We've clipped bumper corners a whole lot, not just straight on. Maybe we've just been lucky.

Either way, sorry to hear you are having trouble.

[Andyrt200 201]

It occurred to me I should put my best G6 speed run from that thread here:

as you can see from the tyres  touching at the end of the video 30mph is about top speed for the stock tyres!

I fitted the skid bumper from the WT-01 as it was on the parts tree from the wide suspension conversion. That has had quite a few high speed tests & it’s fine. I did have to move the front shocks from where they are shown on the pic below to mount on the back of my ally shock tower as they got hit & snapped a few times, but it’s been fine since then. 

I did also fit a high torque servo and saver from new as that was such a weak point on the GF01.

Talking of questionable quality parts there is almost nothing left of the wheels rims outer edges on the front & rears now & big chunks missing from the middle wheels but with the tyres glued they still work fine. No one can see the rims at 30mph anyway...

[Juls1 1660]

My konghead is still sitting it’s box, hopefully get time to build it soon, I’m planning on a variation of the Tl01la arm setup, I realise this doesn’t widen it any hence a “variation”.

i did look at doing the manta ray df01 arm setup, but thought I’d like to try it near how tamiya intended it first. 

A little bit torn on what power system to run, obviously it’s going to be brushless but what’s a realistic setup that’s going to be fun but not trash the body from constant cartwheels. Hoping this car can go on the “sharing” shelf so won’t be just me driving it, be some novices too. 

[Andyrt200 201]

18 minutes ago, Juls1 said:

A little bit torn on what power system to run, obviously it’s going to be brushless but what’s a realistic setup that’s going to be fun but not trash the body from constant cartwheels. Hoping this car can go on the “sharing” shelf so won’t be just me driving it, be some novices too. 

Stock motor & 18t pinion = 11.5mph

Sport tuned 18t pinion = 14mph

 

Then all with 20t pinion:

3300kv brushless & 2s lipo = 18mph

4300kv brushless & 2s lipo = 22mph

4300kv brushless & 3s lipo = 31mph

 

Long term it will be running the 4300kv & an 18t pinion, I guess should be about 20mph on 2s, perfect bashing speed! 

 

 

[Biz73 603]

Speed, or rather lack of, is probably part of why it hasn't been a problem for me yet. Mine is running a Torque tuned motor on 6 cell nimh batteries. We'll see how long it goes until mine blows out.

[TurnipJF 9180]

1 hour ago, Juls1 said:

My konghead is still sitting it’s box, hopefully get time to build it soon, I’m planning on a variation of the Tl01la arm setup, I realise this doesn’t widen it any hence a “variation”.

i did look at doing the manta ray df01 arm setup, but thought I’d like to try it near how tamiya intended it first. 

A little bit torn on what power system to run, obviously it’s going to be brushless but what’s a realistic setup that’s going to be fun but not trash the body from constant cartwheels. Hoping this car can go on the “sharing” shelf so won’t be just me driving it, be some novices too. 

If you decide you do want a long arm setup at some point, the best ones to use are the TL-01B arms, also used on the WR-01 and WT-01 trucks. These are a direct fit and work perfectly with the WR-01/WT-01 dogbones.

[WillyChang 1814]

4 hours ago, Andyrt200 said:

 

Talking of questionable quality parts there is almost nothing left of the wheels rims outer edges on the front & rears now & big chunks missing from the middle wheels but with the tyres glued they still work fine. No one can see the rims at 30mph anyway...

Can you tell if the rim damage is from sideways "kerbing" or compression of the whole tyre from hard landings?

Was thinking of the trim rings found on some T wheels like on HiLift. Yeah they're originally designed for cosmetic 2-tone colouring, but they'd do double duty as rim protection too. 

Might pull down a Willy2 to take some measurements & draw something up  

 

[Juls1 1660]

3 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

If you decide you do want a long arm setup at some point, the best ones to use are the TL-01B arms, also used on the WR-01 and WT-01 trucks. These are a direct fit and work perfectly with the WR-01/WT-01 dogbones.

Yeah I’m fairly certain the wild dagger/tl01b arms are identical to manta ray/top force arms, just on a different sprue. 

[TurnipJF 9180]

55 minutes ago, Juls1 said:

Yeah I’m fairly certain the wild dagger/tl01b arms are identical to manta ray/top force arms, just on a different sprue. 

They are similar in that the lower arms are also in two pieces that are screwed together, but the shape is quite different.

The TL-01B/WR-01/WT-01 arms are the better/stronger choice, as they have significantly more material around the hinge pins, especially the outer ones. 

[Juls1 1660]

2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

They are similar in that the lower arms are also in two pieces that are screwed together, but the shape is quite different.

The TL-01B/WR-01/WT-01 arms are the better/stronger choice, as they have significantly more material around the hinge pins, especially the outer ones. 

Ahh yep that’s good to know cheers 

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

I have followed this thread for some time, and there are some interesting observations that I'd like to comment on.

The wheels used on the Konghead are the same as the (rear) wheels first used on the Mad Bull, which was released in 1997 and are used on the WR-02 and GF-01. All popular Tamiya models and thus necessarily sold in vast numbers.  Up to 20+ years without being known for being particularly brittle. Admittedly, chromed plastic parts are generally a bit more brittle than unchromed parts. If this is because the material needs to have certain qualities for being suitable for plating (with the drawback of being somewhat brittle) or if the material is the same as for unchromed parts, but turns somewhat brittle during the plating process, is something I don't know. We do however know that the chromed version of these wheels have been available since 1999 (Wild Willy 2) and have never been considered particularly brittle. Of course there is a slight possibility that Tamiya have changed the material, but belonging to the elite of plastic injection molding companies, it seems rather unlikely, except possibly for cost reasons.

As for the Konghead front bumper, bumper springs, bumper screws and bumper mount, these are also parts with almost 20 years on the market (WR-02).  I have never experienced, heard or read anywhere else that these parts are inferior in any way. The spring rate of the bumper springs is clearly rather appropriate for the WR-02 and GF-01, so I can't understand how they can possibly be too hard for the heavier G6-01?

Sure, Tamiya is generally not the best at making models for really hard "modern" type bashing. Back when the Frog was released, we were used to the fragile SRB and simply couldn't believe how much beating the Frog (ORV) could take without getting damaged. The WR-02, GF-01 and G6-01 are all clearly even more robust than the ORV, but times have changed.  Due to modern battery-, motor- and ESC-Technology, the models are now quicker and more powerful than 30+ years ago. Also, the expectations are quite different. Running a complete heat of 5 minutes with an SRB without having any technical problems was considered great luck (or even a miracle) in the early eighties. Now kids (and adults) get an RTR at a fraction of the cost of the SRB, and expect it to last for hours on hours of hard bashing without any problems.  That's perfectly OK and many manufacturers have adapted to this market, but I dare say that Tamiya hasn't  All of their modern designs (I mean, not counting the re-res) currently available, are robust and demand little maintenance and repairs, but few, if any of them are designed for hard bashing.  Used as intended, I'm confident that the G6-01 holds up as well as the WR-02 has been known for for almost 2 decades.

[Andyrt200 201]

8 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

If you decide you do want a long arm setup at some point, the best ones to use are the TL-01B arms, also used on the WR-01 and WT-01 trucks. These are a direct fit and work perfectly with the WR-01/WT-01 dogbones.

Yes, this was part of my shopping list:

The WT-01 arms are the 5688 C parts there. I also swapped to normal short wheel axles, it doesn’t need the extra width with long arms & I have now broken two of the longer wheel axles also used in the GF-01, having never broken a wheel axle in 30 years before that! 

It does all add up though, its my sons really & he wanted to pay for it all him self, so I told him it was £350 all in (for everything needed to build it less the RC gear) but that was a conservative estimate! 

Thanks to YouTube my boy has an obsession with suspension flex, but he was very pleased with the results of the wide conversion 

 

[Andyrt200 201]

6 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Can you tell if the rim damage is from sideways "kerbing" or compression of the whole tyre from hard landings?

Was thinking of the trim rings found on some T wheels like on HiLift. Yeah they're originally designed for cosmetic 2-tone colouring, but they'd do double duty as rim protection too. 

Might pull down a Willy2 to take some measurements & draw something up  

 

Rings could be a good idea. 

Our first wheel broke on the first run out, it was cold but we had another car out with us & that was fine. The other cars have run fine in colder weather too (though I did split the Scorcher’s roof in half once). There is a separate thread where someone else said they had the same problem, brittle plastic mentioned there too. 

This is what our rim looked after that first run:

That was running with just the stock motor no jumps & no curbs just normal bashing through a woodland all the other cars have been through many times before in similar cold weather. 

Since moving to brushless power & having crashes like this 

there is as I said not much left of the rims. Obviously you expect some serious damage pushing them that hard, but the white buggy at the start had the Blackfoot Xtream wheels on at the time & they were fine, the only broken bit was a 30year old already cracked suspension mount. 

On the plus side I was really expecting the exhaust stacks to rip off the body on the first roll over, part of the reason for building it wide from new, but the whole body stood the excessive abuse very well. The actual reason for the G6s crashes in that video was that the tyres were still partly filled with water from a previous session & it was leaking out making the tyres slip more & more till one front came right off causing the last big crash. I’ve since glued all the tyres & it’s very stable now. 

[Juls1 1660]

Yeah I’ve been looking at the exhaust stacks wondering about how many upside down landings they will cope with. 

 

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

1 minute ago, Juls1 said:

Yeah I’ve been looking at the exhaust stacks wondering about how many upside down landings they will cope with. 

On the Bullhead, the identical parts quite often loose their tips when the model rolls. However, they may survive better on the Konghead as the body flexes more on impact and the model itself is quite a bit lighter. The identical parts (but black) on the Farm King seem to hold well too.

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

On ‎31‎.‎03‎.‎2018 at 9:50 AM, taffer said:

Tamiya via Mokei  😊 have announced some more bling for the G6-01

A smoke clear gearbox/chassis (like the gf-01 part of seems)

And yellow and orange gears for the above chassis

And an alloy skid plate......

Photo of the skid plate has been available for some time, but photos of the other parts first got available today:

 

 

[Andyrt200 201]

33 minutes ago, Mokei Kagaku said:

 

That gear all looks good but if the above ties the front upper suspension mounts together its a must. That’s the only part I managed to break quickly on my WT01. The front gearbox on that is bad enough to have to replace, but its the whole thing on the G6!