G6-01 ?

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

17 minutes ago, Andyrt200 said:

That gear all looks good but if the above ties the front upper suspension mounts together its a must. That’s the only part I managed to break quickly on my WT01. The front gearbox on that is bad enough to have to replace, but its the whole thing on the G6!

As for beefing up the front (or rear) of the gearbox, these parts were initially intended for the WR-02 and GF-01 as the G6-01 hadn't yet been released, but they fit the G6-01 too:

54587 Aluminium Gear Case Support (GF-01, WR-02)

54695 GF-01/WR-02 Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft & Aluminum Support Bridge

 

[Andyrt200 201]

3 hours ago, Mokei Kagaku said:

As for beefing up the front (or rear) of the gearbox, these parts were initially intended for the WR-02 and GF-01 as the G6-01 hadn't yet been released, but they fit the G6-01 too:

54587 Aluminium Gear Case Support (GF-01, WR-02)

54695 GF-01/WR-02 Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft & Aluminum Support Bridge

Ah thanks. I modified a WT01 part to fit on the front but I may well get one of those for the rear. Its even more important with a wide conversion as the longer arms have more  leverage to rip the mount mount off the chassis / gear box. 

Those stainless shafts are a good idea, wet running results in the mild steel ones rusting, the rough rusty surface then causes the plastic to wear more & you get sloppy arms. 

[danb1974 93]

So, the bumper screws are so soft that one broke inside the plastic part.

Normally this means another F parts tree (10 euros) and a bumper screw set (4 pcs for 8.50 euros)

Since this is not acceptable giving how easy it was to break them, I'll have a blast trying to drill out the remaining of the screw and finding some real screws to reattach the bumper.

 

[danb1974 93]

Plastic too soft to cleanly rip out the remaining part of the screw. Made a partial mess, covered it with black hot glue, cut a M3 thread through bumper holder and found some perfect-lenght M3 screws.

If you intend to test drive that bumper, which seems attracted somehow by immoveable objects, better replace the screws before you tear them apart (who said metal beats plastic).

Also, if you intend to bring it alive, fit a 3300-ish kV brushless motor and go gentle on the throttle. No need to glue the tires. A waterproof combo combined with sticking on the stock bushings should be fun on snow/water/mud.

 

[WillyChang 1814]

ANZAC holiday today... inspired by the Gallipoli massacre, drew up some armory rings...

hmm gatling/revolver motif? 

 

[TurnipJF 9192]

Very nice! Appearing on Shapeways at any point?

[WillyChang 1814]

1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

Very nice! Appearing on Shapeways at any point?

haven't thought about it tbh  how much testing would one do before releasing into the wild?

the rings were drawn to be a tight friction fit, then a fair bit of fiddling/adjusting to get it fitting right... dunno what's the tolerance of Shapeways machines (probably pretty accurate!) vs mine (probably pretty sloppy)... could come out either too tight to go in or too loose to stay in.

you're in UK I assume?

[TurnipJF 9192]

3 hours ago, WillyChang said:

you're in UK I assume?

Correct.

As for testing, hopefully one test print would be enough if the original measurements are right - I don't have much experience with Shapeways parts, but those I have ordered have been pretty much spot on in terms of accuracy. 

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

Pics of these GF-01/G6-01 hop-ups have been posted before, but hi-res pics just got avaiable, so I thought I better post again:

 

[Meccanodude 0]

Hey guys!

I've recently ordered a king yellow and should receive it next month.. This is my first r/c kit so I have no idea what electronics I'll be needing to run it, including the remote control Can someone help me out please? I don't mind spending a bit more for quality components (in fact I'd rather wait and save up rather than getting second choice..) The plan is to go brushless from the start so I'll be installing bearings all round too. Do the bearing kits include all the bearings needed for transmission and steering or do I need to get more than one? Any recommendations on motor/battery brands?

I'm considering getting upgrade shocks right away and alluminium suspension arms, steering upgrades etc. at a later stage. I quite like these https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=TKH550TD01;c=1127 but am not sure if they will fit after one of the previous posts mentioned installing 60mm shocks on the center axle (65mm on front and rear) due to fit issues. Again, help?

I'll stop here for now  thanks in advance!!

I hope I've posted in the right section/thread..

Cheers!

 

Edited July 6, 2018 by Meccanodude
Oh yeah! Any special kits/tools I'll need to get building??

[Germano 2]

Guys 

have you seen the following video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Jh2K2ZW6Mo

[Juggular 4964]

On 7/6/2018 at 12:06 PM, Meccanodude said:

Hey guys!

I've recently ordered a king yellow and should receive it next month.. This is my first r/c kit so I have no idea what electronics I'll be needing to run it, including the remote control Can someone help me out please? I don't mind spending a bit more for quality components (in fact I'd rather wait and save up rather than getting second choice..) The plan is to go brushless from the start so I'll be installing bearings all round too. Do the bearing kits include all the bearings needed for transmission and steering or do I need to get more than one? Any recommendations on motor/battery brands?

I'm considering getting upgrade shocks right away and alluminium suspension arms, steering upgrades etc. at a later stage. I quite like these https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=TKH550TD01;c=1127 but am not sure if they will fit after one of the previous posts mentioned installing 60mm shocks on the center axle (65mm on front and rear) due to fit issues. Again, help?

I'll stop here for now  thanks in advance!!

I hope I've posted in the right section/thread..

Cheers!

 

Sorry, I haven't seen your post.  Perhaps starting a new thread might have been more visible?  

I'm sure you've built yours by now.  But for the benefit of others, there is no reason why one should buy a bearing kit.  Bearing kits tend to be a bit more expensive.  All you need are 5x11x4mm bearings for Konghead/King Yellow.  Bearings are indicated as (inside diameter x outside diameter x thickness).  Tamiya simplifies that by calling it "1150 bearings." (outside diameter first, for Tamiya)  Off the top of my head, I think you need 36 of them?  I spend $10 and buy 50.  The quality isn't super-great.  If you buy 50, there might be 1 bearing that's not turning very well.  So, I pick and choose better ones.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-685-5x11x4mm-Open-Miniature-Bearings-ball-Mini-Hand-Bearing-Spinner/162470235664?hash=item25d3fb0e10:g:F7kAAOSwmgJY7aid

The sky is the limit when it comes to brushless.  But for bashers, I choose a cheap combo for about $40.  You want to buy 3650 sized motor, that's 36mm x 50mm the same size as the stock silver can motor.  I've got 3500kv on my Konghead, but 3900kv is fine too.  Or it could be indicated as turns, like 13.5 turn (similar to 3500kv), or 11.5t(similar to 4000kv), etc.  9.5t might be a bit too fast for Konghead.  

As for batteries, LiPos are pretty similar across the brands.  Back in the days, when 6 NiMH cells were soldered together, cells had to be "matched."  The companies would charge and drain and figure out what each battery was capable of.  Then they would choose 6 that are most similar.  Such "matched cells" were expensive.  But nowadays, you charge LiPos individually anyway.  Chargers match (called 'balance charge').  So I tend to think chargers are more important than a brand name battery.  Because, in the end, even my iPhone batteries come from China.  It's not like iPhone and Samsung batteries didn't explode.  They all come with fire risk.  And Yellow King being a basher, 0.1v inconsistency won't be noticed.  

 

[Germano 2]

43 minutes ago, Juggular said:

You want to buy 3650 sized motor, that's 36mm x 50mm the same size as the stock silver can motor.  I've got 3500kv on my Konghead, but 3900kv is fine too.  Or it could be indicated as turns, like 13.5 turn (similar to 3500kv), or 11.5t(similar to 4000kv), etc.  9.5t might be a bit too fast for Konghead.  

 

Does Mamba sensored 3650 sized exist ?

Or should I replace Stock motor by 540 sized motor?

Currently, the price of that kit is higher than when was released, Right?

 

[Juggular 4964]

I'm not too familiar with Castle Creations stuff... all of my cars are 'bashers' so cheap stuff is good enough for me.  Everybody is different.  But for the price of an expensive brushless system, I tend to get another car.  You can create another thread in "all things electronic" section.  I'm sure other guys would answer your Castle Creation question.  

The stock motor, commonly called the "silver can," is a 540 motor.  Getting a 540 sized (3650) brushless is easiest.  People have used 380 sized brushless successfully too, but for smaller, lighter cars.  380 sized brushless have less torque than 540 sized brushless.  So 380 size is not suitable for heavy things like King Yellow.  You could get an even bigger size like 3660, but 3660 has a different shaft.  You'll have to find a special pinion gear that takes the bigger 5mm shaft.  So, most people just get a 540 sized brushless.  It's ample strong, and easiest to swap.  

Yes, at least in US, prices of Konghead and King Yellow have gone up because of Tamiya's Minimum Ad Pricing policy.  

 

[Germano 2]

8 hours ago, Juggular said:

But for bashers, I choose a cheap combo for about $40. 

 

 

Could you provide the link that combo? I wanna buy one.

 

7 hours ago, Juggular said:

 But for the price of an expensive brushless system, I tend to get another car. 

I agree you. The brushless combo should be proportional to car's value.

[Juggular 4964]

I don't like buying from people who have less than 99% ratings, but here is a 3900kv motor.  I would look for a similar one from a seller with a better rating. (Though, I think I got one from him just fine) 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Best-GoolRC-Waterproof-3650-3900KV-Brushless-Motor-60A-ESC-for-1-10-RC-Car-L9B9/252694571374?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D54620%26meid%3D5f36362bd9334c53b3583ce1e18bfa59%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D9%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D382518233104%26itm%3D252694571374&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

 

[Germano 2]

thanks bro

[ReRun 56]

[ReRun 56]

Looking for recommendation on durable rims for bashing the konghead/king yellow. Something compatible with stock tires and set-up. Original rims’ days are numbered. 

Thanks! 

[Mokei Kagaku 2706]

2 hours ago, ReRun said:

Looking for recommendation on durable rims for bashing the konghead/king yellow. Something compatible with stock tires and set-up. Original rims’ days are numbered. 

Thanks! 

I don't know about any aftermarket plastic wheels that are really suitable for LB/QD-tires used on the G6-01. Aluminum wheels are hardly an option for bashing as they will most likely turn eggshaped.  However, have you tried original Tamiya wheels without chrome? Reason for asking is:

I work for an automotive supplier that among other things manufactures plastic parts. I'm working in the battery systems QA, so my knowledge about plastics is very limited, but I have some very capable colleagues in (plastic) interior QA. One of them has officially retired after a life as (plastic parts) plant QA-manager and is now working as a consultant. In other words, he knows a bit about plastics. I asked him why chromed parts tend to be more brittle than unchromed parts made of the same plastic. He explained two major reasons:

• In preparation for the chrome, the surface is etched to make the plating adhere better. This creates lines along which the plastic will more easly crack.
•  
• The chrome is like a "tight jacket" for the plastic part. In fact, the actual word the colleague used, was "corset". This makes it harder for the plastic to flex and absorb and distribute impact forces. The forces are thus concentrated in a smaller volume of plastic than an identical part without chrome, in effect making the chromed part behave as if it was made of a more brittle material.

I can't promise that unchromed wheels will hold up for your type of running, as I reckon you run your G6-01 pretty hard (which of course is all fine!). However, I think you will notice that unchromed wheels will hold up better than the chromed ones. The basic design of these wheels has been around for over 30 years and all the time they have generally been considered to be pretty durable.

[J@mes 2326]

I haven’t had a close look at the G6-01 wheels but I’ve seen the GF-01 Heavy Dump Truck wheels up close & they have additional ridges under the tyres across from inner to outer & at an angle like a turbine to strengthen the wheel, they might be more durable.

[lsear2905 1279]

10 hours ago, Mokei Kagaku said:

I can't promise that unchromed wheels will hold up for your type of running, as I reckon you run your G6-01 pretty hard (which of course is all fine!). However, I think you will notice that unchromed wheels will hold up better than the chromed ones. The basic design of these wheels has been around for over 30 years and all the time they have generally been considered to be pretty durable.

I also run my Konghead pretty hard and have noticed the wheels don't last nearly as well as the Dump Truck's. I might get white ones next and just dye them.

[isomer1 175]

2 hours ago, lsear2905 said:

I might get white ones next and just dye them.

I don't think the white ones can be dyed. I think they're the same ABS plastic the yellow dump truck wheels are made from, which don't take dye. Several of us have tried in vain, mine just turned out looking kinda dirty yellow where the stress marks in the plastic take up the dye. Others have posted photos of badly warped attempts.

Though if anyone else has done this successfully please share. I believe there are two white variants out there (1) Wild Willy variant - has through holes like the yellow dumptruck (2) Mitsubishi variant - has a solid back wall inside the hub.

[lsear2905 1279]

9 minutes ago, isomer1 said:

I don't think the white ones can be dyed. I think they're the same ABS plastic the yellow dump truck wheels are made from, which don't take dye. Several of us have tried in vain, mine just turned out looking kinda dirty yellow where the stress marks in the plastic take up the dye. Others have posted photos of badly warped attempts.

Though if anyone else has done this successfully please share. I believe there are two white variants out there (1) Wild Willy variant - has through holes like the yellow dumptruck (2) Mitsubishi variant - has a solid back wall inside the hub.

I would think the usual pot of rit-dye would work, but are you saying even that failed? I might just have to buy some new chrome wheels.

I'm starting to realise that by the time I buy new drive-cups, new dog-bones, new wheels, new tyres and a new bodyshell to give it a "freshen-up" it would be cheaper (seriously) to buy an entire new kit.

[isomer1 175]

I was dying Thundershot parts at the time and put in a yellow GF-01 wheel. Used a bottle of black RIT with a heated stirring bath. Thundershot parts came out just fine but the wheel just never took dye. I didn't take the bath up to boiling (the cheap, heated bath I bought off eBay couldn't get much above 80C). @Problemchild posted a similar attempt with Madbull tires that warped at the higher temps.

You might also look at the wheels for the R31House Kart. They come in black, white, and chrome. They're popular on the Japanese forums and available on eBay and RCMart. They're the same size as Tamiya but have slightly less offset, so they'll make the vehicle very slightly wider (~2mm per side). You can also get slick tires for them which look pretty cool.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/R31House-Kart-Rims-2pcs-Black-2WD-RC-Cars-On-Road-R31B035/132918194755