Asymair95 174 Posted May 3, 2017 Had the first run yesterday and was very impressed...it's fast!...really fast...too fast! The scale looking tires don't really offer enough traction on dirt surfaces which cause the car to slide around a lot. I've added 4oz of weight to try and help with this. I'm also going to drop the pinion down a tooth or two because the speed is crazy. The suspension was good, maybe a little hoppy, but not bad. Going to play around with some different springs and see if that helps. Ground clearence was fine, no problems there. I did get some stones stuck in the steering which jammed it, but it happened only once. Going to try and put some more foam in there. The servo saver is slipping so I'm going to plastic weld it together. I have a steel gear high torque servo, so I'm not too worried about damage. Overall I'm really impressed. Watching her slide around corners was great fun, going to really enjoy this car. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Asymair95 174 Posted March 29, 2018 Just wanted to update this thread. Finally got around to doing the interior with the Tamiya rally cockpit. It fit amazingly well and required very little trimming. I cut out the tint on the side windows for better visibility. All that is left is to install an exhaust pipe of some kind. Have one on the way in the mail. After adding a bit of weight to the front end and playing with the springs, she is a blast to drive. 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Asymair95 174 Posted March 31, 2018 My next project will be an M06 cup racer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chevelle 997 Posted April 1, 2018 This looks brilliant buddy, Nice job on the body detail's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Asymair95 174 Posted April 1, 2018 Thank you, looking forward to my next one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRx718 4470 Posted April 1, 2018 Missed this last year when you were building it but just read it - looks fantastic. How have you done that weathering on the outside of the shell? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Asymair95 174 Posted April 1, 2018 I used a light coat of Tamiya flat ps-55 on the outside of the shell. Then used various washes, light brown, light green, and finally black. Also used some light weathering pastels, followed again by a light coat of ps-55 clear. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted April 2, 2018 On 06/04/2017 at 4:03 PM, Asymair95 said: After patting myself on the back and admiring my handy work, I discovered I had an extra piece. This "D15" piece had eluded me during the build. I scoured the instructions and low and behold it fits under the drive shaft just aft of the front diff. I had to pull half the car apart to install it...lol. Lesson learned I guess. That part is an optional steering lock limiter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Asymair95 174 Posted April 2, 2018 Wait...really? If I take it out will it increase steering throw? Fabbed up a dual stinger type exhaust tonight. This was the look I was going for: Here is what I came up with. Im debating detailing the trunk area along the lines of something like this: I think that looks awesome, but it would take some serious work as there is not much room in the trunk area...decisions...decisions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted April 2, 2018 21 hours ago, Asymair95 said: Wait...really? If I take it out will it increase steering throw? Fabbed up a dual stinger type exhaust tonight. This was the look I was going for: Here is what I came up with. Im debating detailing the trunk area along the lines of something like this: I think that looks awesome, but it would take some serious work as there is not much room in the trunk area...decisions...decisions. Yes it will. The B buggy doesn't use it at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Asymair95 174 Posted January 17, 2022 I know this thread is four years old, but I recently added some more weathering, as well as some custom mud flaps. Been driving her more lately after being a shelf queen for a few years. I purchased another Datsun body so I can try another paint scheme. I can swap back and forth depending on the type of driving I’m doing that day. This car is a head turner wherever it goes. 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zealot 397 Posted January 17, 2022 Gorgeous. Please post some more pics. I bought one of these body sets. Perhaps it's time to do something with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foz75 93 Posted January 18, 2022 That looks amazing, great job! I need to learn more about weathering techniques! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yoshimitsu 3475 Posted January 18, 2022 @Asymair95 How did you weather your shell? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Asymair95 174 Posted January 19, 2022 Few more pics. Weathering was done with layers of washes, crushed pastels, and dry brushing. There are a few good videos on YouTube that I used. Between a few of the steps I would spray a light coat of flat clear to seal everything in. This is by far my favorite body. I can’t drive it with my 7 and 11 year old with their cars. I have a basher car I use so we can have some fun! next project will be an XV-01 integrale that will get the full treatment as well. Can’t wait. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nefarious 21 Posted March 20, 2022 Great build! When I was reading about the trouble you had with your very smart "front upright mod" i was reminded of a 'TT-02 Rally build video' I saw. The builder used part A10 from the upper A-arm ball joint as a replacement for the lower ball joint bushing we all hate in Rally builds...A6! He starts with another idea you had, on the front hub he filled down the lower upright post that goes through the lower A-arm till it was just "proud" of the lower ball joint, not flush with the ball joint, so that when you put it together it won't lock up. Then, to make sure that the 10mil screw that goes into the lower upright post will fit, he uses a 2.5mil drill bit to drill through the lower upright post as it is a "blind hole" that won't allow a 10mm screw to go all the way into your recently filled down post. Next he assembled the upright but on the lower ball joint instead of using the "ground clearance ruining" bushing part "A6" he uses the upper balljoint bushing part "A10" (in the video, at this step, he mistakenly calls this part A11). He used a 10mm stainless, machine-thread, cap screw during assembly. Now for the top upright post, after using "A10" to replace "A6", he simply substitutes a couple stainless steel washers in place of "A10". To add my own mod here: a little protection too this area can be added by using a stainless steel washer where the lower shock ball joint connects to the Lower Front A-arm, wether it be in front of the lower shock ball joint when using the included "MB4 step screws" or a "shock ball end", or behind the lower shock ball joint if using a "pivot ball screw". I have found using a washer here protects the lower A-arm, the lower upright balljoint and even my front shock's lower ball joints from everything, even street bashing! After throwing sparks and wearing down I just add a new washer. I also add washers, using countersunk screws for a perfectly flush fit, between the two MA3 screws used with the front and rear lower bumper mounts. That keeps the lower chassis almost scratch free and throws MASSIVE SPARKS!!! 😂 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites