Jump to content
Jason1145

Tamiya Striker Restoration - Project completed.

Recommended Posts

Stripping the chassis for cleaning and painting

n88eP2w.jpg

n88eP2w.jpg

qXBdCTc.jpg

RZTHvWQ.jpg

Old Shock older (Striker)

T0Qj3wR.jpg

 

New shock holder (Sonic Fighter)

WTJBCdP.jpg

Difference in height - note the shock mount position, Sonic Fightrs can hold a regular oil shock.

bX0wGx7.jpg

I21gpL8.jpg

 

Strip the decals - off colour white shows up here

LOV5wKh.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

54154 - Reinfirced uprights fit n place of stock uprights

 

C9CCNhG.jpg

oVyGleu.jpg

Old upright cleaned up well anyhow

ZnQC2hZ.jpg

coxQGeu.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rear end removed again - already been cleaned and rebuilt all ready to go

7CON6VH.jpg

Chassis naked top

RKVEP4v.jpg

bottom

9AsZeDs.jpg

Dirt to wash off and clean up ready for painting.

cEyAr6j.jpg

3Hd2ptv.jpg

Cockpit - remove all decals from that too

V0vl1UV.jpg

DbB5bUA.jpg

oVRU9mt.jpg

PyfYLT9.jpg

WIku1iZ.jpg

 

hFNrC7S.jpg

okb8DMd.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I never thought to try tt01 cups and bones lol

Those bones you have are the crp upgraded ones.

With regards to front shocks they will need to be soft/light oil as these cars are so light 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just tried those reinforced uprights as I bough some for my Hornet and they looked similar.

I didn't know my dog bones weren't stock, CRP upgraded ones sounds good! Thanks.

Update : chassis and cockpit primed in grey, sanded back down as it was left rough to the touch from the primer and then painted gloss black.

3 coats of each.

Looks pretty good although not brilliant as there is some shinier patches than others on it but better than before that's for sure.

This will ultimately be a gentle runner so hopefully it doesn't roll over and get scratched.

Now I'm out to buy some clear lacquer as I'd forgotten I used it all up last month on my first ever hard body shell which sits on my WT01 now.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should I clear coat it first and then put the decals or vice versa?

I don't anticipate changing decals again so this will be it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Should I clear coat it first and then put the decals or vice versa?

I don't anticipate changing decals again so this will be it.

I've never liked the idea of clear coating decals as to me, that makes it all a little too final, then again, I've never really built anything as a shelfer. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like sealing them in, as in, a tomb never to be released again ;)

 

Question about the large worded"Striker" decal down the side of the chassis that also stretches over the rear arm mount.. once this decal is stuck on you can never remove that rear arm holder without peeling back the decal off it?

Do I need to cut that decal and place it separately? Or is there another way of removing the rear arms without removing that rear arm holder ( the one held in with 1 side screw and 3 top screws?)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is another way...

Undo the gearbox from the chassis and gently pull but remember that it'll be a bit of a balancing act to get everything back in this way.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, VagabondStarJXF said:

There is another way...

Undo the gearbox from the chassis and gently pull but remember that it'll be a bit of a balancing act to get everything back in this way.

Will give this a go tonight, thanks for the heads up..... This will solve the issue of how to put the decal on the chassis and then with the gearbox removed it leaves the chassis free standing to be clear coated (away from the gearbox).

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Old decals might break unevenly, I always get a nice sharp blade and cut it after application

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well Vagabond I really tried that way of balancing the gearbox and getting it back in to the chassis... what I found was its not possible with only two hands lol... well not my two hands.. the dog bones are impossible to get lined up whilst positioning everything else and trying to squeeze it into the chassis.. after 20 minutes I nearly threw the whole thing out the window ;)

I'll cut the decal after its put on thanks Taffer.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks like everything is coming along nicely! I also cut the decal after it was applied, figuring that the added complexity of preserving it while removing parts underneath was only worth doing once.

The Sonic Fighter front shock tower is a worthwhile upgrade. I never cared for it as I felt the extra height detracted from the Striker's aesthetics, but then I also did not mind the front end bouncing around, either :P

I can hardly wait to see it painted!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Well Vagabond I really tried that way of balancing the gearbox and getting it back in to the chassis... what I found was its not possible with only two hands lol... well not my two hands.. the dog bones are impossible to get lined up whilst positioning everything else and trying to squeeze it into the chassis.. after 20 minutes I nearly threw the whole thing out the window ;)

lol. I did warn you! :D It is possible though. Its all a case of patiently balancing the gearbox and the chassis in one hand/arm while you fit the dogbones into position, but only when the gearbox is close enough to hold them in place, then pushing the gearbox in until it's in place to screw in properly. It's tricky, I know, but I had to figure out how to do it when I first built it back in '88, then relearn how to do it every time I build a new Striker chassis (or rebuild one). It's kinda satisfying when it works, not to mention it'll help you to avoid snapping that small screw point that sticks out to the side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes very true that's how I managed to snap one of those little tabs off as it needs a bit of pressure to squeeze that holding block past and into position.

My consolation is that once built this won't be a model that will constantly be pulled apart for maintenance ;)

i just received my new alloy rear hubs from Pargu Store ( Korea) they look great and I'm yet to test fit them but they should be fine, they only have them in blue though which atleast will match the rear motor cage thingy... and I just remembered I need to paint the blue rear wing which I'd forgotten about duh!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Yes very true that's how I managed to snap one of those little tabs off as it needs a bit of pressure to squeeze that holding block past and into position.

My consolation is that once built this won't be a model that will constantly be pulled apart for maintenance ;)

i just received my new alloy rear hubs from Pargu Store ( Korea) they look great and I'm yet to test fit them but they should be fine, they only have them in blue though which atleast will match the rear motor cage thingy... and I just remembered I need to paint the blue rear wing which I'd forgotten about duh!

You've received yours already? When did you order yours? I put an order in 3 weeks ago and nothing has arrived yet. :( 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, VagabondStarJXF said:

You've received yours already? When did you order yours? I put an order in 3 weeks ago and nothing has arrived yet. :( 

About 11 days ago, hope yours show up soon!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And the cockpit resting on the chassis, still need to paint the drivers head and aply the chassis decals

bcWiSfJ.jpg

bvja2Nz.jpg

VWgmtoG.jpg

jsauQ13.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How about a Terminator style Racing driver head? 

How about dyed black wheels too.. just what to do about that blue rear wing? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Perhaps you could install a non-stock rear wing. In my modified Striker ruminations, I considered cutting and drilling a modern polycarbonate buggy rear wing to fit the Striker's mounts, or even an Astute-style rear wing replica for that '80s ambience. As such, standard polycarbonate paint would suffice.

If you go the modern hard-plastic route, you would have little difficulty finding a black rear wing as it is now in style ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good idea on tryzing a different rear wing and why not, I've changed the original look already so no need to stick to the same look. 

I'll have a play about with a spare Schumacher polycarbonate wing I've got sitting around unemployed... might find the rear shocks get in the way but I could lift the wing I'm sure if I wanted.

Today in between bouts of light rain I'm finishing the clear coat on the chassis and cockpit.

I've already sanded down the stock rear wing and the new Striker white wheels in preparation for some grey primer and black polycarbonate paint.

Jobs still to do, re-assemble whole front and rear ends.

Finish painting drivers head.

Apply Chassis side decals and cut over that rear arm block section.

Dig throug my spares and find/assemble some suitable oil filled shocks.

Glue tyres onto painted wheels.

Fit Pragustore alloy rear hub adapters.

Decide what electrics to put in this, probably a slowish brushed motor running nimh through a Quicrun 1060 esc, maybe 2s lipo.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...