Sammo 479 Posted April 18, 2017 Evening, I've recently got all my old R/C gear out of the loft. Amongst my various shelf queens I found a TA02 (which I've since been informed is a TA01!) chassis that I'd bought. It seems pretty complete but as I've got a fair few road cars I wouldn't mind wide tracking this one and jacking it up with a truck body of some sort. I've heard that bits from a DF01 can be used but I'm not 100% sure on what bits I need. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great. Here's the chassis as it was pulled out of the box. Cheers, Sammo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
svenb 3735 Posted April 18, 2017 It's a TA01 I think, I reckon there are buggies based on that chassis. sven Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iluvmud 812 Posted April 19, 2017 58 minutes ago, svenb said: It's a TA01 I think, I reckon there are buggies based on that chassis. sven It is a ta01, and it's pretty much the same as the df01 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason1145 3984 Posted April 19, 2017 Yep looks like my old Manta Ray Chassis which was a DF01. Rear - looks like you'll need DF01 rear camber link and lower rear arm and the longer rear dog bones to reach the now extended rear hub. Front - DF01 lower arms, DF01 dog bones again ( same as rear) and DF01 front camber link too. Plus you'll need the longer DF01 steering linkages Can you view the Manta Ray Chassis online to nab the part numbers for those bits? Or buy a cheap used roller for the parts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammo 479 Posted April 19, 2017 Thanks for the help so far. So it's seems the easiest way to get the arms is to buy some of the aluminium hop up arms from Yeah Racing. I'm also going to buy a TA02 tub to shorten the wheelbase. The tubs are only a tenner on eBay so that's not a problem. Jason, I'm going to have a look online and see if I can find a Manta Ray manual to peruse just to check I'm getting the correct bits. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo 1201 Posted April 19, 2017 I hope this thread is helpful. I have most of the parts available if your interested but I'm in Aussie ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammo 479 Posted April 19, 2017 15 minutes ago, Thommo said: I hope this thread is helpful. I have most of the parts available if your interested but I'm in Aussie ! I've just been looking at your thread as it happens! How much would you want for all the conversion bits? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammo 479 Posted April 19, 2017 19 minutes ago, Thommo said: I hope this thread is helpful. I have most of the parts available if your interested but I'm in Aussie ! Alternatively would you be able to tell me the length of the front and rear lower arms? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo 1201 Posted April 19, 2017 The parts required are just the parts for Tamiya Top Force or Manta Ray. I'll take a look at what I have and get back to you with a PM. What wheelbase / body are you aiming for ? I found more bodies suited to the TA02 chassis tub which is shorter. If not, I would be more inclined to buy a used DF01 and use some of the parts you have there as spares. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammo 479 Posted April 19, 2017 29 minutes ago, Thommo said: The parts required are just the parts for Tamiya Top Force or Manta Ray. I'll take a look at what I have and get back to you with a PM. What wheelbase / body are you aiming for ? I found more bodies suited to the TA02 chassis tub which is shorter. If not, I would be more inclined to buy a used DF01 and use some of the parts you have there as spares. I've already got an F150 body (sorry, didn't mean to copy you haha!) hence wanting to shorten the wheelbase with a TA02 tub. Ive found some Yeah Racing aluminium lower arms for a DF01 which measure 41.2mm on the front and 50.2mm on the rear, however they don't look as long as the standard Top Force arms. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo 1201 Posted April 19, 2017 At least you know what it will look like. How's this, I've just converted that very truck back to kit spec because I didn't have any projects. There are a few reasons not to buy alloy arms if you get my drift.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammo 479 Posted April 19, 2017 I've just ordered the lower arm D parts and a TA02 tub from eBay. I need to get the turnbuckles too I believe? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo 1201 Posted April 20, 2017 Hey Mate, looks like your doing OK sourcing parts for your conversion locally. The thread that I linked for you has most of the info re: turnbuckles and driveshafts that you still need and again, you won't having any trouble sourcing these locally. One thing that is a bit tricky is mounting the ball connectors for the upper turnbuckles onto the TA01/02 shock towers because they are designed for a step screw to go through. What I did was used the longer Tamiya ball connectors with an extra mod. These are the ones but I used a bit of heat shrink on half of the thread to take up the extra space as the hole in the shock tower is a bit bigger. Then you can fit a washer and lock nut to secure it. You can also use a 3mm screw with a ball nut but the same applies with a bit of heat shrink needed on the thread to get the screw centred. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Madcaper 11 Posted April 22, 2017 How can I identify my Manta Ray? Which are the differences between TA01/TA02/DF01. I bought an used Manta Ray in very good condition. But I want to know which chassie it is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
svenb 3735 Posted April 22, 2017 On 20/04/2017 at 9:14 AM, Thommo said: Hey Mate, looks like your doing OK sourcing parts for your conversion locally. The thread that I linked for you has most of the info re: turnbuckles and driveshafts that you still need and again, you won't having any trouble sourcing these locally. One thing that is a bit tricky is mounting the ball connectors for the upper turnbuckles onto the TA01/02 shock towers because they are designed for a step screw to go through. What I did was used the longer Tamiya ball connectors with an extra mod. These are the ones but I used a bit of heat shrink on half of the thread to take up the extra space as the hole in the shock tower is a bit bigger. Then you can fit a washer and lock nut to secure it. You can also use a 3mm screw with a ball nut but the same applies with a bit of heat shrink needed on the thread to get the screw centred. You could use these to help, their in with the touring and rally bushing set 53144. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammo 479 Posted April 22, 2017 I managed to get the chassis and arms swapped over this evening. I'll get some pics up tomorrow but it's looking good so far Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammo 479 Posted April 22, 2017 On 20/04/2017 at 9:14 AM, Thommo said: Hey Mate, looks like your doing OK sourcing parts for your conversion locally. The thread that I linked for you has most of the info re: turnbuckles and driveshafts that you still need and again, you won't having any trouble sourcing these locally. One thing that is a bit tricky is mounting the ball connectors for the upper turnbuckles onto the TA01/02 shock towers because they are designed for a step screw to go through. What I did was used the longer Tamiya ball connectors with an extra mod. These are the ones but I used a bit of heat shrink on half of the thread to take up the extra space as the hole in the shock tower is a bit bigger. Then you can fit a washer and lock nut to secure it. You can also use a 3mm screw with a ball nut but the same applies with a bit of heat shrink needed on the thread to get the screw centred. I've managed to find most of the bits myself thanks I don't suppose you have any pictures of the chassis with the wide track so I can get an idea of what screws were used etc etc? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo 1201 Posted April 23, 2017 Only what's posted in the thread I linked to and my showroom entry. None more pics because I just converted mine back to standard. @svenb. I tried those bushes but they didn't fit. Outside diameter was just a bit big and I didn't want to drill out the shock towers. I was using blue parts from the F150 Re-release. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
svenb 3735 Posted April 23, 2017 There are different sizes of the stepped sleeves, the type in the 53144 set fit perfect. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammo 479 Posted April 23, 2017 1 hour ago, svenb said: There are different sizes of the stepped sleeves, the type in the 53144 set fit perfect. What ball connectors are they? I'm struggling to find any with a long thread. Only the stumpy ones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
svenb 3735 Posted April 23, 2017 30 minutes ago, Sammo said: What ball connectors are they? I'm struggling to find any with a long thread. Only the stumpy ones. Just search Tamiya 5x9mm ball connectors, plenty on ebay last time I looked. How many do you need? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammo 479 Posted April 25, 2017 Had a couple more bits arrive today. I got made an offer I couldn't refuse for my F150 shell so I ordered the Chevy S10 shell instead It didn't come with a decal set so I've ordered one separately from the US. I had a couple of packets of ball connectors arrive too. Still waiting for a complete screw set to turn up from the US and the shocks. Next thing to order will be the motor and ESC. The electrics have all come on quite a bit since I last got involved in R/C cars so any advice on what to go for would be greatly appreciated 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo 1201 Posted April 28, 2017 Here's another thread I've just been reminded of thanks to @Only4Fun with more wide track pics if you go to the start of the thread. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammo 479 Posted May 1, 2017 I managed to get another hour or so on the chassis this evening. First thing was to get the tie rods made up, ball connectors fitted (I haven't used anything to centre the screws yet as this is just a dummy build until my new screw set arrives), tie rods fitted and dog bones fitted. Once they were fitted I took my new aluminium shocks out and set to work finding some screws that were the right length to bolt them on. After having a good rummage through my boxes of screws I found a couple that were long enough and got them fitted Once they were fitted up I turned my attention to the front. That's where I hit my first issue. It appears the DF01 dog bones I bought are too short, so I'm going to have to order some others. I figured I'd carry on getting everything else bolted up so I could see what it would look like. I managed to get one tie rod made up and then ran out of the plastic ball connectors. I fitted up the one side and bolted on the shock. It's nearly there 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo 1201 Posted May 2, 2017 On 5/2/2017 at 4:48 AM, Sammo said: Once they were fitted up I turned my attention to the front. That's where I hit my first issue. It appears the DF01 dog bones I bought are too short, so I'm going to have to order some others. Now that is odd.... Are they the same length as the ones you have fitted to the rear ? Can you try one of the rear dog bones in the front and report back. There are little pink neoprene bushes (or a shock o'ring) that you can put inside the drive cup to remove dog bone end float. The camber angle (your upper turnbuckle adjustment) also affects dog bone location so a good start point is a tiny bit of negative camber or 0' zero camber with the lower arms and dog bones horizontal. With the arms horizontal and the camber at 0' the dog bones should be just contacting the O'ring or neoprene bush and have no end float but preferably not pushing tight on them. A tiny bit of end float at horizontal is fine. If you don't mind suggestion, moving the lower shock mounting position to the outermost hole on the lower suspension arms will reduce that acute dog bone angle too. A steep angle like that does move the wheel axle away from the dog bone and increases the chances of the dog bone flying out. You don't want the dog bone dragging on the inside top of the wheel axle at full extension either. I hope this is helpful. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites