Effigy3

TT-02 Subaru Crosstrek XV Item # 58567

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There are so many TT-02 builds on here (one of them is my own!) that I hesitated doing yet another TT-02 build thread.  However, this one is going to be built to rally spec with a number of hop-ups, some of which I think are unique.  So I hope you all find this worthwhile.  I am still waiting for a fair number of bits to arrive from distant lands such as Michigan, the U.K., Hong Kong and Japan.  It will be at least a couple of weeks before I can start this build thread in earnest.  I will begin though with an unboxing video.

 

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Ahem, that's not the most exciting rally bodyshell now is it lol?

I will be most interested in the ride height for your rally design, I have just bought a rally spec'd TT02 from Prescient but am yet to look at it properly,  but I gather it's got 25mm clearance which was a main selling point for me, that and it already has a lot of hop ups which I'll be interested to see if they match yours and the reason behind them to help me tune my own car for off road use :)

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7 hours ago, Blista said:

Any plans for how you're going to paint the body?

Yes!  My daughter is very excited because we're going to use PS-47 Iridescent Pink/Gold.  I thought I had a can on my shelf but it turns out that I have PS-50 Sparkling Pink Anodized Aluminum.  My TRF 211 is painted in PS-46 Iridescent  Purple/Green and she thinks the color shift is so cool that she wanted it for her rally car.  Tower is out of stock until "Late April" which is soon I think.  Some of our parts are slated to arrive no later than May 19th so I don't think that Towers timeline is going to hold anything up.

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3 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Ahem, that's not the most exciting rally bodyshell now is it lol?

I will be most interested in the ride height for your rally design, I have just bought a rally spec'd TT02 from Prescient but am yet to look at it properly,  but I gather it's got 25mm clearance which was a main selling point for me, that and it already has a lot of hop ups which I'll be interested to see if they match yours and the reason behind them to help me tune my own car for off road use :)

Yeah, not super exciting as a rally car is it?  I suppose that's part of the reason it's selling for just $94.  Honestly though, it'll fit in well with my street going paint scheme Ferrari 458, and my wife's Mercedes G320.  My son's Raybrig Acura NSX is also quite mild in decor only having the minimum decals applied.  His does stick out from the pack a bit with that big wing on the back though.

The manual doesn't say how much ground clearance the "High" position affords. I suppose it depends on the tires.  I'll be sure to measure once the build is complete.

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Lately I’ve been trying to include a parts list as it were at the start of my build threads.  I find it really helpful when other people do this.  It makes it so much easier to duplicate what they’ve done.  ;)

  • Item # 58567 TT-02 Subaru XV kit
  • Item # 47340 TT-02 Lower Deck (Hard/White)
  • Item # 47334 TT-02 A Parts (White)
  • Item # 47338 TT-02 B Parts (White)
  • Item # 47336 TT-02 D Parts (White)
  • Item # 54571 TT-02 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink
    • This will only work with silver can, Torque Tuned, or Sport Tuned motors
  • Item # 54558 TT-02 Aluminum Motor Mount
  • Item # 53930 Super Stock BZ motor (23T)
  • TGE-818 Square steel pinion (18T)
  • Item # 54409 3X14mm Low Friction Step Screw
  • Item # 54550 TT-02 3X18 Low Friction Step Screw
  • Item # 54559 TT-02 Low Friction Suspension Ball
  • Item # 50875 TA-04 5mm Ball Connector Set
  • Item # 51283 5mm Reinforced Adjuster (8 pcs)
  • Item # 54753 TT-02 CVA Super Mini Shock Unit Set (4 pcs.)
    • The included springs are too short for decent rally use
  • Item # 50746 Super Mini CVA Shock Unit (2 pcs) - requires 2
  • Schumacher Turnbuckle HT Touring 30mm (use 1 out of the pair)
    • While I did end up using the 30mm turnbuckle, a 23mm is more appropriate
  • Item # 54248 Aluminum Turnbuckle Shaft - 3x23mm (2pcs) use 1 out of the pair
  • HobbyWing QuicRun 1060 Brushed ESC
  • Hobbyco Star plug (male)
    • Deans compatible connector for the ESC
  • Tactic TTX300 transmitter
  • Tactic TR326 receiver
  • Arrma ADS-5 servo
  • Item # 51000 Hi-Torque Servo Saver - Black
  • FastEddy rubber shielded bearing kit for the TT-02
  • Kyosho #30,000 CST diff grease (front diff)
  • Kyosho #5,000 CST diff grease (rear diff)
  • RC Screwz stainless steel hex head screw kit for TT-02
  • Item # 86047 PS-47 Iridescent Pink/Gold paint
  • Item # 86005 PS-5 Black paint
  • Item # 86031 PS-31 Smoke paint

If the parts list changes during the build I’ll amend this list.

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Good idea on the parts list - so a 23t Super Stock BZ motor and a Quicrun 1060, what battery (lipo/nimh) and pinion you planning  to start with?

Do you have the adjustable motor mount or the stock one with set pinion holes?

I see the white chassis and some other white parts, this will look neat when done! :)

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3 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Good idea on the parts list - so a 23t Super Stock BZ motor and a Quicrun 1060, what battery (lipo/nimh) and pinion you planning  to start with?

Do you have the adjustable motor mount or the stock one with set pinion holes?

I see the white chassis and some other white parts, this will look neat when done! :)

Thanks!  XVPilot did a parts list on one of his builds and I found it so useful that I adopted the practice too.

Reports are that the 1060 can handle the BZ motor just fine so we're going to go with that.  I do have a Duratrax IntelliSpeed 16T ESC in my Frog that I can press into duty if the 1060 fails to deliver the goods.  I plan on moving the 5000 mAh NiMh battery over from her TT-02B.  She rarely uses it now that the R/C track close to us shut down.  :(

I have one of the Tamiya aluminum motor mounts inbound which allows a wide range of pinions to be used.  The plan is to use the stock pinon for a little bit and see what the motor temps are like.  If they're good I'll order up a steel pinion for it.  If it's too warm I'll have to sort out a plan B.

Yeah, I ordered the white chassis a little while back planning to swap out the stock one on her TT-02B.  Then I noticed that it's harder than stock which is better suited to on-road than off.  She likes the looks of the white so I ordered up all the white parts sprues available.

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1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

Since you are going for a blue and white colour scheme on the chassis, how about dressing up the shocks with a set of these?

I'm already so far over budget that I really can't spend any more cash on this project.  I justified the hop-ups by telling myself that this will in all likelihood become my daughters primary rig.  She hasn't used her Neo Scorcher in months and declines when we invite her to the park to bash.  If I were going to go for some color changes to the dampers I'd figure out a way to mount the white CVAs from her Neo Scorcher.  ;) 

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17 hours ago, Effigy3 said:

I'm already so far over budget that I really can't spend any more cash on this project.  I justified the hop-ups by telling myself that this will in all likelihood become my daughters primary rig.  She hasn't used her Neo Scorcher in months and declines when we invite her to the park to bash.  If I were going to go for some color changes to the dampers I'd figure out a way to mount the white CVAs from her Neo Scorcher.  ;) 

My neo came with yellow shocks which I don't really care for.  Where did you get the white? I went a bit overboard replacing the shocks on my WT so I'm still trying to decide what to put on the TT that's reasonable.  

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White came standard on the Metallic Pink version and on the Dual Ridge. You can also buy them seperate but not in one kit. The bodies are seperate to the rods and mounts.

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4 hours ago, Macinnis said:

My neo came with yellow shocks which I don't really care for.  Where did you get the white? I went a bit overboard replacing the shocks on my WT so I'm still trying to decide what to put on the TT that's reasonable.  

Yep, TwistedxSlayer is exactly correct.  They came with my daughters Pink Special Neo Scorcher.  The pistons are odd though.  Rather than exchangeable nylon discs with holes affixed via c-clips, they are flat metal oblong shaped jobbers.  I'd prefer more standard pistons and shafts TBH.

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Contrary to what I stated in the unboxing video, there are decals included for the rims.  After thinking about it for all of 2 seconds I decided it would be preferable to paint them silver instead of using stickers.  First: it'll take forever to cut out the stickers.  Second: I think the paint will be way more durable in actual use.  I have a set of silver and gold Pentel ultra fine tip paint markers so I gave that a go.  I was shakier than I expected but I think it turned out ok for a first go.  I did touch up the one little spot I messed up at like the 1:00 position in the image below.  1 down - 3 to go!

04.22.2017-19.31.png

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10 hours ago, Effigy3 said:

Yep, TwistedxSlayer is exactly correct.  They came with my daughters Pink Special Neo Scorcher.  The pistons are odd though.  Rather than exchangeable nylon discs with holes affixed via c-clips, they are flat metal oblong shaped jobbers.  I'd prefer more standard pistons and shafts TBH.

Yes, the standard neo had the same oblong plungers on the pistons.  It even came with the nylon discs that are unused.  I am in the market for for new shocks for the neo.

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DF02 DF03 shocks are great on the TT02B, DT02/03 ones are too soft, but pretty much you need 70mm up front and 90mm at the rear.

5 hours ago, Macinnis said:

Yes, the standard neo had the same oblong plungers on the pistons.  It even came with the nylon discs that are unused.  I am in the market for for new shocks for the neo.

 

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Sounds like the shocks are similar spec to the kit cva in the DT03 with the solid metal piston/plunger thing. Assuming you're OK with the colour of the bodies you can buy shafts to use with the pistons on your sprues. I did this on my dt03. You need TRF part 54043 for the rear and 50601 for the fronts then a bag of 3mm e clips to affix the pistons. 

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I got the wheels painted up.  They're not perfect but I think they look good enough.

04.24.2017-17.41.png

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Tonight I got the QuicRun 1060 battery connector converted over from standard Tamiya-style to the Deans compatible Star plug.

04.26.2017-19.33.png

I understand the convenience of having the ends all pre-attached but I wouldn't suggest anyone run with a Tamiya-style plug on a modern car.  They simply aren't rated for the current draw of the batteries and motors of today.

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7 hours ago, Effigy3 said:

Tonight I got the QuicRun 1060 battery connector converted over from standard Tamiya-style to the Deans compatible Star plug.

04.26.2017-19.33.png

I understand the convenience of having the ends all pre-attached but I wouldn't suggest anyone run with a Tamiya-style pug on a modern car.  They simply aren't rated for the current draw of the batteries and motors of today.

Been thinking on this as I am just about to get my first soldering kit. What is the procedure to change the plugs? Would appreciate the help and possibly pictures!

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2 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Been thinking on this as I am just about to get my first soldering kit. What is the procedure to change the plugs? Would appreciate the help and possibly pictures!

If you're going to get a soldering kit I suggest that you get a good one and skip the frustration of trying to solder with inadequate tools.  I went for a year or two using a solder gun.  It was big and clunky but only $30 and got the job done, sort of.  My solder jobs were messy to say the least.  I finally broke down and bought a Weller WES51 solder station for about $100.  What a difference!  I no longer dread soldering and my solder jobs are neat and tidy now.  The TrakPower TK-950 solder station is also a fine choice, as is the Hakko FX888D.

The other thing that really makes soldering jobs go easier is to use flux.  I prefer liquid flux over paste.  Just one or two drops on the end of a wire makes it tin right up nicely.  A drop on each of the tabs of a Deans connector lets the solder take well forming a neat little puddle that will allow the tinned wire end to affix to it cleanly and securely.

Lastly, I STRONGLY suggest getting yourself a soldering jig.  I can't tell you how much frustration this will alleviate.  I use the Mr. Grippy and it has made a huge difference in my solder jobs.

There are loads of instructional videos on You Tube about how to solder battery connections and ESCs.  I suggest that you watch a few since everyone seems to have their own style and methods.

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Parts are dribbling in but I'm still waiting for the remaining white parts sprues.  They're coming from Hong Kong and are scheduled to arrive by the end of this week to no later than three weeks from now.  Once they arrive I can begin the build.

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All the bits are in, it's time to start the build

05.06.2017-09.29.png

The box came with all this stuff:

05.06.2017-09.31.png

and this stuff too:

05.06.2017-09.31.png

Then I went and bought all these hop-ups because I can't seem to build a kit box stock:

05.06.2017-09.33.png

Now if I could just pry my daughter away from her Lorien Legacies book we can start to put the pieces together.  :)

This is the configuration that we will be building to:

05.06.2017-10.39.png

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