njmlondon 570 Posted May 8, 2017 Looking for a bit of advice. I have a re-re Scorcher (that I am converting to Fighting Buggy) and it has the 2.6mm ball ends in the steering knuckles. I also have a re-re Frog / Brat chassis (for a Lancia Rally body) that also has the steering knuckles that come complete with the ball-ends pre-fitted which are also quite small. In both cars I am using high-torque servo savers and in the ORV I am using an adaptor to fix the servo centrally. In an ideal world I will swap out the 2mm steering rods for nice thick turnbuckles and I would like to use some metal rod ends like this http://store.rc4wd.com/M3-Mini-Aluminum-Axial-Style-Rod-End-Black-10_p_4502.html 2 questions for you experts... For the Scorcher, is there a clever way to change the 2.6mm ball end for a 3mm screw? Any alternative arms that work? Or will I need to find a 2.6mm screw and use some sort of bushing to increase the diameter? For the ORvV can I simply swap out the standard arms and replace with ones from the Monster Beetle / Blackfoot which I believe are much beefier? Or will that change the geometry too much? Any tips for beefing either of these steering set-ups would be most welcome. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shodog 1835 Posted May 8, 2017 Those ball ends are a bit beefy. Drilling the knuckle from 2mm hole to 3mm will weaken it. You would have better luck switching them out for some super champ ball ends and steering rods. another alternative is what I done on my RR was a Tecnacraft 4/40 rod and some Dubro ball ends Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Backlash 481 Posted May 8, 2017 The holes for the steering links on the original SRB arms were tapped M2 (IIRC).. Are the re-re's tapped M2.6? I suppose that you could drill and tap the hole in the steering arm to an M3 thread, although it may weaken the arm a bit.. A small brass sleeve (or even heat shrink) around the M2.6 screw to take it to 3mm may be the better option.. One thing that you may not have considered.. Those RC4WD ball ends look quite large.. Are you sure that you are going to get clearance between them when bolted to the Tamiya HD servo saver, and also between them and the tyre on a Brat/Lancia, or will they rub? Maybe some of the nylon ball ends from RPM or Tamiya's TRF range would be a better option.. BITD I used to use Du-bro ball ends instead of the original Tamiya ones... You could also sleeve the 2mm steering rods with some brass tube to give some more strength if you feel they need it..https://dubro.com/collections/ball-links/products/swivel-ball-link Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njmlondon 570 Posted May 8, 2017 1 hour ago, Shodog said: Those ball ends are a bit beefy. Drilling the knuckle from 2mm hole to 3mm will weaken it. You would have better luck switching them out for some super champ ball ends and steering rods. another alternative is what I done on my RR was a Tecnacraft 4/40 rod and some Dubro ball ends 1 hour ago, Backlash said: The holes for the steering links on the original SRB arms were tapped M2 (IIRC).. Are the re-re's tapped M2.6? I suppose that you could drill and tap the hole in the steering arm to an M3 thread, although it may weaken the arm a bit.. A small brass sleeve (or even heat shrink) around the M2.6 screw to take it to 3mm may be the better option.. One thing that you may not have considered.. Those RC4WD ball ends look quite large.. Are you sure that you are going to get clearance between them when bolted to the Tamiya HD servo saver, and also between them and the tyre on a Brat/Lancia, or will they rub? Maybe some of the nylon ball ends from RPM or Tamiya's TRF range would be a better option.. BITD I used to use Du-bro ball ends instead of the original Tamiya ones... You could also sleeve the 2mm steering rods with some brass tube to give some more strength if you feel they need it..https://dubro.com/collections/ball-links/products/swivel-ball-link Thanks for the replies. The re-re SRBs arms have 2.6mm holes, not sure about the originals. I have found plenty of M2.6 screws for sale so this should be easy to match and I like the idea of using heat-shrink to expand the screw rather than trying to tap the hole out to 3mm. I have both Kimburgh servo saver and a Tamiya high-torque version so can use 3mm screws at that end. Ideally I will use 3mm turnbuckles (just need to make sure I buy the right lengths) Maybe one of you can help me with the Dubro range. The numbers do not make sense to me... I see 2-56 and 4-40... what does that mean? I have had a look through their website and am struggling to make sure I buy the right ones. I guess I need 3mm for both holes but in an ideal worlkd it would be great to find ones that fitted on 3mm rod/turnbuckles but had the holes for 2.6mm screws. That would be the cleanest solution. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Country Mike 120 Posted May 8, 2017 I have beefed my brat steering up by keeping the ball ends on the hubs but changed out the plastic ball sockets for the type which go on similar the types found on turnbuckles but then swapped out the flimsy push rods for a more sturdier rod. I used bmx spokes which turn out are m3 threaded for the nipple so the plastic http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-51111-4mm-Adjuster-for-3mm-Screws-8-Pcs-TRF416-TRF417-TRF418-TRF419-/391767746274? fits on the hub ok and gets pushed and pulled well. I opened the servo steering whatsit holes up to accept the larger diameter spoke. I'll post a pic tomorrow. because I did the centre servo mount at the same time to make it easier on cutting spokes. So far i've hammered the car and the steering hasnt popped off or anything. I also removed the star washer from between the hub and carrier so in order to stop it rotating. I have http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292037400360?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT also fitted from the battery compartment end and the front track arms are now not needed. The pic tomorrow will explain all but all in all its a tad sharper. The slop is still in the hub pivots and link suspension but a lot lesser with these mods. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njmlondon 570 Posted May 8, 2017 44 minutes ago, Country Mike said: I have beefed my brat steering up by keeping the ball ends on the hubs but changed out the plastic ball sockets for the type which go on similar the types found on turnbuckles but then swapped out the flimsy push rods for a more sturdier rod. I used bmx spokes which turn out are m3 threaded for the nipple so the plastic http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-51111-4mm-Adjuster-for-3mm-Screws-8-Pcs-TRF416-TRF417-TRF418-TRF419-/391767746274? fits on the hub ok and gets pushed and pulled well. I opened the servo steering whatsit holes up to accept the larger diameter spoke. I'll post a pic tomorrow. because I did the centre servo mount at the same time to make it easier on cutting spokes. So far i've hammered the car and the steering hasnt popped off or anything. I also removed the star washer from between the hub and carrier so in order to stop it rotating. I have http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292037400360?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT also fitted from the battery compartment end and the front track arms are now not needed. The pic tomorrow will explain all but all in all its a tad sharper. The slop is still in the hub pivots and link suspension but a lot lesser with these mods. Hi Mike thanks for this. So those rod ends fit nicely on the stock 4mm blls bu allow 3mm turnbuckles. Simple and nice solution. Not as smooth as the Dubros but probably lower maintenance for a runner. Looking forward to seeing what you did with the roll bar, Struggling to picture it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Country Mike 120 Posted May 9, 2017 Has promised, bike spoke mod. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD RACER 566 Posted May 9, 2017 All my frog's and Brat I did this. Centered servo. Dubro 440 rod ends. Fox steering links and ball cups. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njmlondon 570 Posted May 11, 2017 On 5/9/2017 at 10:23 PM, MAD RACER said: All my frog's and Brat I did this. Centered servo. Dubro 440 rod ends. Fox steering links and ball cups. That looks really good! I am centering the servo too so it is nice to see that the Fox links and ball ends fit straight on. To confirm if I want to copy this set up, Dubro 440's will fit on 3mm thread? I do not get this 440 thing! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shodog 1835 Posted May 11, 2017 1 hour ago, njmlondon said: To confirm if I want to copy this set up, Dubro 440's will fit on 3mm thread? I do not get this 440 thing! They do fit but it stretches the plastic. It would be wise to open up the hole a little bit with a drill bit. Something a bit bigger than a 4/40 but smaller than 3mm 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD RACER 566 Posted May 11, 2017 The Hub Carriers are custom made to extend the track of the front end and to allow Hornet steering knuckles to be used as the re re Frog carriers come apart. I used Fox links but can't it was a mix & match of the rods to get the correct lenghth. NOT a straight bolt up job. Hot Shot Ball studs were used as well to stop bump steer. You can read more here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Country Mike 120 Posted May 11, 2017 I think the steering has improved with centre servo mod. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daverobbo5 129 Posted May 23, 2017 go the chrome mad racer. that is next level!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites