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max69vk

Chroming plastic parts

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Has anyone managed to chrome any plastics parts themselves, or found a way to get a relaitively similiar finish by another method?

I currently have some vintage parts for my Sandscorchers (door handles & mirrors) that should be chromed but it has all come off The cost of these parts when I have been able to find them has been outrageous so if I could refurbish rather then replace them it would be  a much better option.

Thanks.

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I looked in to getting a set of Jaguar xjr12 wheels done and at £60 plus vat plus postage both ways I thought 'er no maybe not ' and had a go at chrome spraying from an aerosol.

Not great but not to bad either, sprayed black gloss then lacquered followed by the chrome spray.

Might be worth biting the bullet and getting a new set.

sven

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The testors model masters buffing metallizers work well. Not quite chrome but give you a nice metallic finish in different shades. If you use the ones that buff, make sure you pick up the sealer as well.

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Alclad chrome paint works very well indeed, but you need an airbrush for it.

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I have used 'Chrome' aerosol before - the finish was more of a bright silver, not bright chrome as per the cap on the can.

Self adhesive aluminium foil tape is great for flat or almost flat areas - I have used this to repair some rare 1:1 fog-lights where the silvering had corroded.  

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Thanks for the info, definitely gives me something to look at. The Alcad paint sounds like it could be a winner, however anything has to be better than the white plastic colour they are at the moment. Just need to try & learn how to use an airbrush again after nearly 2 decades!

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1 hour ago, max69vk said:

Thanks for the info, definitely gives me something to look at. The Alcad paint sounds like it could be a winner, however anything has to be better than the white plastic colour they are at the moment. Just need to try & learn how to use an airbrush again after nearly 2 decades!

If you use the Alclad, you'll need Gloss Black Base (ALC-305), Chrome (ALC-107) and Aqua Gloss (ALC-600).

-Just prime the part as normal, preferably with Fine Surface Primer or similar that gives a very smooth finish.

-Spray on the black base like any other paint. Possibly any gloss black would work here, but I've always chosen to use the one they recommend.

-Spray the chrome fairly soon after the black base to help it stick. This needs spraying incredibly gently at about 15psi. If you apply too much it ends up looking like regular X11 chrome silver. So a bit of

practice on scrap material is recommended until you get a feel for how it looks as it goes on.

-Spray the aqua gloss after at least 24 hours. If you don't give it long enough, spraying the clear will just blast off the chrome. Apply 2 light coats and you're done.

The Aqua clear is odd stuff that reminds me of PVA, which it may well actually be. Do not overspray this with any laquer-based paint/clear or it will react.

Always mask off and paint the chrome last of all to avoid this happening.

For an idea of how it looks, see my Fighting Buggy side vents in my showroom.

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I've used 'rustoleum' painters touch enamel chrome spray , not a bad finish - better than most chrome sprays I've used . No spray on 'chrome' is ever going to be like real chrome due to the nature of the chroming process against spray paint . There are places that can chrome plate new plastic . I don't think it is possible to chrome plate old plastic though. TC member 'loaded' used to chrome plate new plastic parts trees

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There's no magic 1-squirt chrome paint.

For proper "chrome" results your surface prep has to be spoton perfect to a mirror shine, your gloss black has to be mirror finish and only then your chrome particulate paint will align its particles enough to shine like a mirror.

Any imperfections in the base or orangepeel in the black, the mirror starts going cloudy :) 

Perhaps many of you haven't seen chromium plating done before... yeah we all just send them some ratty parts, they come back shiny! But the amount of effort they put in, from acid baths to welding/filling/surfacing then buffing it all smooth before plating in copper... rinse & repeat. Only when it's perfect, then it goes into the chrome vat.

 

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Try custom paints I have had a couple of rattle cans from them and they are great paint supplies normally to the automotive industry but they do rattle cans also and I'm sure I've seen a chrome d.i.y. kit on there website

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All good information, thanks all. I'd never expect a finish other than chrome to look as good as chrome, but pricing for some replacement parts is what's led me to explore alternative options. I'm not sure I'm not the only person who could justify spending £50+ on a single replacement mirror (never say never). Rarity of parts will obviously increase their value, but there is a limit 🙂

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don't overlook "Bare Metal Foil" too, it's sticky selfadhesive foil. Its made for 1/24 models, works fine for 1/10s when you're only doing small detail areas.

Surprisingly durable, got some that's hung on fine so far for 15-20yrs. If needs be just peel off & reapply a fresh covering... darned sight easier than stripping & relacquering. 

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Been talking to a friend who builds static models and he mentioned a product called Molotow liquid chrome, I've found a video of someone using it and the results are pretty impressive. Apparently it's very durable when fully hardened too, could be a game changer for small parts - 

 

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Thats a great alternative and a great finish also I wonder if that can be clear coated.

I'm gonna order one of them pens and try it but they also the chrome in a rattle can also .... it's called burner chrome

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On 5/15/2017 at 2:50 PM, topforcein said:

Thats a great alternative and a great finish also I wonder if that can be clear coated.

I'm gonna order one of them pens and try it but they also the chrome in a rattle can also .... it's called burner chrome

Hi @topforcein. How did you get on with this? Would be interested

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7 minutes ago, mman2005 said:

Hi @topforcein. How did you get on with this? Would be interested

After some work with this stuff it has a long drying time & isn’t really tough enough for use on an everyday runner or a basher, however for a shelf queen or light use model its brilliant.

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11 minutes ago, max69vk said:

After some work with this stuff it has a long drying time & isn’t really tough enough for use on an everyday runner or a basher, however for a shelf queen or light use model its brilliant.

Yeah I was thinking for a shelf queen. I have a mint fully restore Thunder Dragon and know that there was a hop up option to have hotshot wheels. I like the idea of silver chrome hotshot wheels with the silver body of the TD

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1 hour ago, max69vk said:

After some work with this stuff it has a long drying time & isn’t really tough enough for use on an everyday runner or a basher, however for a shelf queen or light use model its brilliant.

By any chance have you used alclad chrome? I'm trying to decide between the molotow and the alclad

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I’ve not tried Alclad yet, but I’ve heard a few people who’ve tried both prefer the Molotow finish.

Not my video but quite a good (if not boring) comparison here; 

 

 

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