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Recently rebuilt a TL01 for a friend and decided to get myself a road car for my next project. Picked up this very clean TA01 from @svenb and the plan is a simple one, do your basic TA upgrades and run it :) 

The body is a TL01 Focus WRC that I screwed up painting back when it was a current model so I guess around 2001/2002. I put it back in the box and left it in the loft until last week when I dug it out at my parents, it has loads of colour cross contamination and it looks pretty bad close up but as this will be a runner I don't care anymore :D  It actually has improved quite a bit by me applying decals the last few days. 

1XSa0sph.jpg

Upgrades will be:

Full bearings
9T Ezrun motor (waiting on an ESC from china)
Yeah Racing Prop
Steel pinion

That is pretty much it to start with, let's see how it runs once I get to this stage.  

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If it hasn't been done already i would grab a ta02 gearset and replace the alloy gears inside the rear gearbox , they won't last 5 minutes with bl power

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24 minutes ago, chickenman242tk said:

If it hasn't been done already i would grab a ta02 gearset and replace the alloy gears inside the rear gearbox , they won't last 5 minutes with bl power

Don't worry, I have a few sets of TA02 gears already stocked up for it. I had a look the other night, pretty sure it already had the plastic spur fitted :)

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Should be sweet then , if the budget allows id suggest a set of front uni joints, I've got a few sets of the yeah racing unis in different cars and they work great 

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Decals finished. 

NY3LR4Ah.jpg

Body needs mounting, it's just sat on the chassis hence the terrible reverse rake! 

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My new ESC arrived today, soldered some wires on to the motor and got it all booked up. It all came alive alright so fingers crossed it'll be up and running shortly. 

JDr5vT5h.jpg

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Previous images have been fixed :)

Hoping to get back to this shortly, too many summer hobbies to be spending the nice months sat in the house working on RC cars but sadly, summer is nearly done :unsure:

So, thinking of a slight change of direction, rather than brushless, thinking of going silvercan and 3S....

Any one recommend a 3S battery that will fit in this chassis?

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A bit of progress! Drilled the body last night so I could actually mount it properly, still need to paint the spoiler. 

sNOwuym.jpg

Going to do a quick inventory of what I actually need to buy for it this weekend and then order what I need :)

 

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Bearings ordered and have the steel pinion and prop already so almost ready to get this running :)

 

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Looking good mate😉

I really like the focus shell and its good to see a ta01 being used considering how old they are now👍

sven

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10 hours ago, svenb said:

Looking good mate😉

I really like the focus shell and its good to see a ta01 being used considering how old they are now👍

sven

Cheers sven, looking forward to giving it a run, it has been a long long time since I last drove a TA01 but I have great memories of them. 

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Looks great Ian, hope it works out for you, I sold my Manta Ray as it couldn't handle brushless power no matter what I did to it, lavished it with a whole new rear gear boxcase in case it was worn or warped anywhere, and internals, all manner of mods done to strengthen that rear gearbox to hold it together under 4000kv brushless power and it all failed as the rear idler gear would not stay seated and kept stripping, bushing inside the idler failed a couple times.

Maybe it was due to the bigger Buggy wheels on the DF01 Manta Rat but I believe it's the same design as the TA01?

Please keep it updated as I'm watching, I have recently bought a used TA01 chassis that I'd love to run a brushless system in.... I need to refresh myself what combo of metal or plastic gears are recommended in that rear gearbox though :(

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Found this on the forum from TA-Mark very useful

"First 2 things you need on a TA-01 before anything else is a full bearing set and an alloy motor mount. Manta-Ray (DF-01) is the same bearing set, the motor mount fits TA-01, TA-02 and DF-01.

Next replace the plastic drive hexes on the wheels with alloy clamp style ones. The plastic ones get hot while running and fold over the cross pin and drag on the bearing sheild slowing the car. This is exaggerated if you over-tighten the wheel nuts.

Next Item to replace is the gearset. Use the TA-02 all plastic gearsets so it will remove any alloy gears from the driveline. The alloy is soft and wears fast, faster the more powerful motor you bolt in.

Pinion for the motor is next, use STEEL only. RW Racing or Robinson Racing both make steel 0.6mm metric pinions. 21T pinion is suitable for 27 turn motors (kit motor), smaller pinion the lower the motor turn. 19 turn motor will need a 19T or 18T pinion depending on the motor spec (different brands have different power curves).

Pull that MSC out, they damage TA-01 gearboxes as they can go forward<->reverse without first needing the car to stop (kills the idlers gears and pops the gear cover up). The ESC needs to be rated better than the motor you use. A 15 turn speed gem motor will have this chassis flying, powered with an 11 turn limit ESC. Similar price is go straight to one of the EZ-Run brushless systems. If you've read many of the brushless threads here, brushless is more about longer runtime and no maintainence than all out speed.

Next in order is get rid of the 'coathanger' driveshaft for a Top-Force or aftermarket solid unit. The wire one will flex with powerful motors and slap on the upper battery cover slowing the car and eventually flex so far it spits out leaving you with a 2WD until you find where it flew to in the grass.

 

I put the upgrades in order of importance."

 

 

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Some interesting info there, especially regarding the gears. Way back in the day I used to run a 10x4 motor in my TA01, traction off the line was pretty much non existent but I never really experienced any major issues from the car with the power going through it. The only thing I definitely had an issue with was the front shock tower, for some reason they used to break all the time without hitting anything, there are option GRP/fibre parts available to cure this issue though.

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On 16/12/2017 at 2:23 PM, Jason1145 said:

Looks great Ian, hope it works out for you, I sold my Manta Ray as it couldn't handle brushless power no matter what I did to it, lavished it with a whole new rear gear boxcase in case it was worn or warped anywhere, and internals, all manner of mods done to strengthen that rear gearbox to hold it together under 4000kv brushless power and it all failed as the rear idler gear would not stay seated and kept stripping, bushing inside the idler failed a couple times.

Maybe it was due to the bigger Buggy wheels on the DF01 Manta Rat but I believe it's the same design as the TA01?

Please keep it updated as I'm watching, I have recently bought a used TA01 chassis that I'd love to run a brushless system in.... I need to refresh myself what combo of metal or plastic gears are recommended in that rear gearbox though :(

Thanks for the input Jason :)

I had many a TA01/02 back in the nineties most of the information has come back to me while working on it. 

I actually decided against going brushless, after a drove my friends brushless TL01 i thought it was just too quick. I've still got my Yokomo Pro Stock 14 turn which I ran in my TA01 back in the day and it was plenty quick enough so I've bought a Quick run 1060 and I'm going retro brushed. 

Bit more work today, rear gearbox all cleaned (very very greasy inside) and internals replaced with the ta02 gear set along with replacing all bushings on the rear end to bearings. 

Steering servo fitted and wheels aligned 😊

 

lJJqx6m.jpg

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Good progress Ian hope it's up n running soon. Did all the screws tighten down nice and snug on the rear top diff cover?

Good call on the brushed choice, to save myself some aggro I might swap in the TA02 gears ( at the rear) but keep it brushed too, I have a couple of Quicrun 1060 ESC's and 3300Nimh packs to use... plus it's my excuse to finally get that cool looking SuperStock RZ brushed motor I've wanted for a long time but was always worried it'd be too slow for anything I'd want to run... enter the TA02 to solve that quandary ;)

 

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Following one of Kontemaxs build threads I ended up doing as he did and drilling right through the gearcasing with a 3.1mm bit and running a long machine screw through it with a nut on the other end. Two at the rear and one of the front fixings have access for this. Should hold the lid down with no danger of screws pulling out. 

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29 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Following one of Kontemaxs build threads I ended up doing as he did and drilling right through the gearcasing with a 3.1mm bit and running a long machine screw through it with a nut on the other end. Two at the rear and one of the front fixings have access for this. Should hold the lid down with no danger of screws pulling out. 

Yep I did that one on my Manta Ray too, plus drilling through the rear shock tower to run a machine screw it and fitting a locknut on the protruding end so it sat on top of the rear diff case from the other side, which effectively locked down that other side of the top rear diff case... And the first 2 minutes of a 4000kv motor on 2s lipo it physically broke the plastic idler gear bushing causing the idler gear to move and give that awful crunching sound with no movement under throttle...I gave up at that point and sold the Ray... looks like I'm going to buy those same mod parts again ( alloy prop shaft with cups, alloy motor mount and plastic gears) and try again on this chassis (but keeping the power down) .... it's something I swore I'd never do... and then I bought an Escort Cossie on the TA01.... wish I'd kept those mod parts now ;)

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6 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

Yep I did that one on my Manta Ray too, plus drilling through the rear shock tower to run a machine screw it and fitting a locknut on the protruding end so it sat on top of the rear diff case from the other side, which effectively locked down that other side of the top rear diff case... And the first 2 minutes of a 4000kv motor on 2s lipo it physically broke the plastic idler gear bushing causing the idler gear to move and give that awful crunching sound with no movement under throttle...I gave up at that point and sold the Ray... looks like I'm going to buy those same mod parts again ( alloy prop shaft with cups, alloy motor mount and plastic gears) and try again on this chassis (but keeping the power down) .... it's something I swore I'd never do... and then I bought an Escort Cossie on the TA01.... wish I'd kept those mod parts now ;)

Interesting. I'm running the plastic gearset and alloy prop with 3300kv and nimh and it feels very tame, like the chassis could take loads more. Might reconsider

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43 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

 

Interesting. I'm running the plastic gearset and alloy prop with 3300kv and nimh and it feels very tame, like the chassis could take loads more. Might reconsider

No don't, go with your gut on yours, I may well have not done it all properly and the only reason I went so far with my one was because I was told it can be made to handle fast powerful motors so I kept at it but ended up doubtful no my own work, or my particular car... I did replace the whole rear gearcase with a new one to eliminate any deforming it might've  had but still couldn't get it right... this was my biggest Tamiya fail :(

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Plus mine was the buggy version, longer Arms, bigger wheels than the TC version... all this might've affected it.

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9 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Plus mine was the buggy version, longer Arms, bigger wheels than the TC version... all this might've affected it.

Mine is a buggy too. Hence the interest. You hear talk of big power Top Forces racing. Might leave it then. 

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13 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

 

Interesting. I'm running the plastic gearset and alloy prop with 3300kv and nimh and it feels very tame, like the chassis could take loads more. Might reconsider

I suspect part of your problem might be the ability of the NiMH packs to deliver sufficient instantaneous current.  A switch to Lipo should make a big difference, or just a bigger capacity NiMH can often help (I ran a 17x2T motor in a Blitzer Beetle, which is only rwd and pretty lightweight but 3000mAh packs just cut out, a 5000mAh one soon had me smoothing out the rear tyres in no time at all ;) )

 

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