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1 hour ago, Percymon said:

I suspect part of your problem might be the ability of the NiMH packs to deliver sufficient instantaneous current.  A switch to Lipo should make a big difference, or just a bigger capacity NiMH can often help (I ran a 17x2T motor in a Blitzer Beetle, which is only rwd and pretty lightweight but 3000mAh packs just cut out, a 5000mAh one soon had me smoothing out the rear tyres in no time at all ;) )

 

You might be right, although I ran the exact same spec setup in my DT03 and it seemed to have much more pep. I run 8.4V nimh packs in my DT03 and Thunder Dragon now which gives them lots of grunt. I don't want the hassle of lipo. Getting an 8.4 in the DF01 is probably doable with a custom overlander pack as I have a carbon chassis on it. That said it's not exactly setting my world alight right now so thinking about moving it on to fund a new project.

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Glad to see this project is generating some discussion on the old TA/DF platform :)

I found with my Manta Ray that is really didn't handle a lot of power very well, I ran my last one with a 14 turn brushed motor and NiMH packs and the motor end bell melted away :lol:I can't remember what pinion I was using so maybe I was the cause of the problem. 

I do remember my old TA01 being quick enough with the pro stock and that was with 1400 Tamiya racing packs, quite interested to see how it runs with a LiPO :D 

@Jason1145 Where did you get your cossie shell from? 

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Yeah I'm hoping for more success with the TA01 than the DF01 platform ;)

I also remember having trouble with an alloy motor mount I bought because there was no markings for the pinion numbers or which way up to fit it lol.. I'm sure that rounded a spur or two trying to figure that one out.

So do I need an alloy motor mount if I'm only running a Super Stock RZ motor (23t I think)? 

@Ian_Gsi16V I bought the TBG Cossie shell off Ebay ( repro) which I've done in black, but then bought a used Tamiya TA01 chassis with original Tamiya Cossie shell and box.

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Bit of progress after work, motor fitted and runs :D

Electronics need a little tidying up next :rolleyes:

 

 

IMG_20171219_181425.jpg

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Car is now a runner :D

Rebuilt the ball diff, fixed the receiver and cleaned up the front gearbox. 

All that is left to do now is fit the ballraces on the front hubs then hopefully a little test run tomorrow :D

I've given a little blast around the back room and no issues so far...

 

IMG_20171228_145213.jpg

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Today I cleaned up the front diff and fitted the ballraces on the front, it's now officially ready for a test drive B)

I didn't think I was going to like the Focus shell but it actually looks pretty cool B)

 

IMG_20171230_163211.jpg

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First drive today, everything was going well, chassis handling the speed, even on in a wet car park the car was turning and steering great and something I haven't had on any of my runners for a long time. 

I deduced all this in about 10 seconds as after that it seems as though a little stone or something embedded itself in the motor and it stopped dead. 

Removed the motor when I got home and I can't turn it at all by hand so I guess I'll strip it and see what has happened. 

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First decent run today, recently bought a vintage Yokomo Pro Stock 2 17 turn so got that fitted, i've replaced the rear ball diff as I wasn't happy with the noises it was making so I swapped it out for a basic planetary one, pretty happy with the performance off it :) 

The only things I really took away from today is that I need to adjust the steering and I need to glue the tyres :D

 

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12 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

Yes that’s pretty rapid and tracks well... 2s lipo?

Yep, want to try a 3S this year to check out the extra kick :)

 

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Nice car, love the TA series.  3S will be pretty crazy in that car except for speed runs.  You will literally roast the tires in 1-2 full packs on 3S with that motor.  I ran a TA02 on 3S with the stock silver can and it killed the tires within a few runs.

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On 2/5/2018 at 4:23 AM, 87lc2 said:

Nice car, love the TA series.  3S will be pretty crazy in that car except for speed runs.  You will literally roast the tires in 1-2 full packs on 3S with that motor.  I ran a TA02 on 3S with the stock silver can and it killed the tires within a few runs.

I might give it miss then, i'm not looking for crazy power, I want to maintain some drive-ability, it's quite good fun playing around sliding it around :)

Might have a play with pinion sizes, I'm running a 19T right now but i'm sure I could squeeze a bit more top end out of it with a bigger one.   

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If you haven't done it yet, you should reinforce the rear gearbox. There's 2 simple tricks you can do to keep the rear gearbox from breaking. The power from the motor pushes the idler gear up and will sometimes brend the gearbox lid or even crack it. I'll dig up some photo's from how I reinforced it on my Top Force :)

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13 minutes ago, Tizer said:

If you haven't done it yet, you should reinforce the rear gearbox. There's 2 simple tricks you can do to keep the rear gearbox from breaking. The power from the motor pushes the idler gear up and will sometimes brend the gearbox lid or even crack it. I'll dig up some photo's from how I reinforced it on my Top Force :)

2 methods?

I’ve seen 1 where you tap through the gear casing and use bolts. What’s the other?

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