ELEPHT70 43 Posted May 23, 2017 My fellow Tamiyans... I've recently picked up this Hot Shot. I haven't pulled it apart other than wheels and body. Is there any tell-tale signs that would, in fact identify this as an early model from the '80's? Or do I have to strip it further the check the driveline etc..? Appears to be in good condition. It arrived with a broken front lower arm but came with a replacement which was slightly different. It didn't have the small triangular protrusion about 2/3 of the way along the outer edge... This got me thinking, was it a re-re or the replacement arm? It fitted up perfectly anyways. After further examination I noticed the rear suspension non existent. This was caused by a broken suspension link tab on the lower rear control arm. One is in the mail. I wonder if it will have the same triangular thingy or not... I just really plan on using modern electrics in the way of a Traxxas XL-5 ESC, a 20T brushed Stinger motor from an older Traxxas Bandit and 2S lipo power. That way I can use it and will keep the original electrics if I ever want to revert back... What else should be done to improve the buggy as a whole? Bearing upgrade is next. I'm guessing I'll have to pull the shocks down and service/clean them. What weight oil is a good all rounder? I added 12mm hexes in place of the tri-drive setup so I could pop on some later wheel/tyre technology. Not sold on the look. Think I'd rather some old styled but 2.2" gold wheels. Tyres will have to remain the exact same diameter, too, correct? I'm unsure of the 4WD system but I think it's a good enough reason considering the stock wheels are all exact diameters. Ugh, I'm rambling... Here's some pics. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted May 23, 2017 It's a 1980s example Black plastic endbell on 540 disappeared after late 80s. Rere don't get MSC; there's option for dummy resistors but not std & don't have wires behind them. Easiest to differentiate without disassembly between rere or not is to check the rollcage, the tabs below the wing have gained an extra vertical strut on the newer moulding. Chassis top has gained an access hatch (from HSII) ahead of driver fig. Outdrives have smaller balls on rere too. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ELEPHT70 43 Posted May 24, 2017 Great info thanks Willy 😊 I have a debatable question... I picked up some killa wheels but they foul on the front uprights (their internal diameter is too small). Is it possible to extend the axles? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted May 24, 2017 49 minutes ago, ELEPHT70 said: Great info thanks Willy 😊 I have a debatable question... I picked up some killa wheels but they foul on the front uprights (their internal diameter is too small). Is it possible to extend the axles? Not really. It's a classic, and looks better with the original wheels anyway 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted May 27, 2017 Longer axles & pushing out the hubs will affect geometry, the wheels will swing around a bigger arc. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ELEPHT70 43 Posted May 29, 2017 Ended up getting some hex extenders. Easily change to stock wheels when I want. Been doing a little research and I'm not going to be pleased with the Stinger 20T motor so what "good" racing type 15T motors are there? I don't want to hurt the car but I don't want to fall asleep whilst driving it, either... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted May 29, 2017 58 minutes ago, ELEPHT70 said: Ended up getting some hex extenders. Easily change to stock wheels when I want. Been doing a little research and I'm not going to be pleased with the Stinger 20T motor so what "good" racing type 15T motors are there? I don't want to hurt the car but I don't want to fall asleep whilst driving it, either... I use an Ezrun 2 pole 4000KV brushless motor in my re-re with a 2S LiPo with no adverse effects. It's plenty quick enough and the brushless systems are much more efficient than the brushed systems. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ELEPHT70 43 Posted June 1, 2017 Ended up settling on a Snow Panther 16T brushed motor from Asia Tees. I'll stick to 2S also as I'd rather drive and enjoy it rather than buy up all the spares from constantly breaking it lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ELEPHT70 43 Posted June 8, 2017 Man I must just love spending money lol. Ok I've decided against the chrome wheels I wanted to run that required the hex extensions. I'll get another car to use them on lol. Traxxas XL-5 ESC and Stinger motor (for now) mounted in place. Only one small hole has been drilled so I can stick a straw, toothpick, screwdriver etc into it to turn the ESC on. I didn't even take note of what the steering servo was. It feels quite good to turn the wheels manually so I'll see how it goes. Pretty sure there was a Futaba logo on it. I was working on it yesterday replacing all of the upper and lower control arms and rebuilt the shocks (the suspension action is beautiful now, btw 👌) when I spotted a set of short course wheels so I popped them on and now I'm digging it! It's got really good ground clearance and the geometry hasn't been messed about too much, either. I just need to do something about that front bumper bar. It looks a little out of place. The wheels hit it on 3/4 lock so something has to be done anyways. Might go for something like a Traxxas Bandit style. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ELEPHT70 43 Posted June 21, 2017 Replaced all of the 22(!!!!) plastic bushings in the driveline and axles. Even spinning everything by hand it's far more "free". Not to mention the added strength and protection from dust, sand etc. I've given it a birthday with some period hop ups and the larger 8.4v battery mounts. I've gone for a 4350kV brushless motor so I'll stick the 16T and XL-5 ESC in the Grasshopper to wake it up. Just waiting on the postie.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites