Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 10, 2017 Here's the start of it all. It should be tough enough for a truck build. There's no way I'm going to fork out for a Traxxas. Bells and whistles should appear along the way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 10, 2017 Bits are arriving........ 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 10, 2017 I've done a mock-up with all the plastic bits for now, until the F-150 body shell arrives. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kingfisher 1171 Posted June 10, 2017 Which F150 body shell are you using? My first NeoScorcher has so many hoppups, that I could have bought a Traxxas, lol. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 10, 2017 This one. https://tamiyabase.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=article&joobase=8&id=495&Itemid=776#data 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwistedxSlayer 1290 Posted June 11, 2017 Gotta love a tt-02b build. Spent a fortune on mine. Gotta bought 2x Traxxas for the same money. Lol 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 11, 2017 I'm pretty sure I've decided on a colour scheme, it'll be a bit pricey with three colours. For those who remember....... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 11, 2017 Started the upgrades. I used Kyosho thread lock. Will it work on a Tamiya? 🤔 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwistedxSlayer 1290 Posted June 11, 2017 No, you can only use Tamiya thread lock on Tamiya, Kyosho thread lock will come unstuck.... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 11, 2017 I've always used Loctite 243. I leaves a blue plastic residue, you can pull it if a screw in a spiral. If never had damaged plastic issues and it works on prop nuts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 13, 2017 As our exulted leader says, "Lets gets to work. Gooo. Little round wizzy round things, and Gooo. Lots of Gooo. Trapped Gooo! I used half of the AW Grease in each case, topped up with a bit of HMP grease from an old tube hanging around. I does seem to have a pronounced LSD effect. I check it with the wheel on later after the next bit. Waiting on 1150 Bearings. OH NO! Someone's shot me car and skinned it. 🤔 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nowinaminute 2815 Posted June 13, 2017 6 hours ago, Granddad Stinky said: OH NO! Someone's shot me car and skinned it. 🤔 lol! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 13, 2017 Here's the non-meshing of gears problem. The two back plates of the ring and pinion clash. It's little lathe time tomorrow to rectify the problem and set the correct load. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 14, 2017 On 11/06/2017 at 1:10 PM, TwistedxSlayer said: Gotta love a tt-02b build. Spent a fortune on mine. Gotta bought 2x Traxxas for the same money. Lol That's the point, anyone can BUY one and charge the battery. I'd never buy a ready made. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 14, 2017 Hurrah! The rest of the bearings from where I messed up my order. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 14, 2017 Bearings are now in the hubs and on the drive shaft ends, they're clamped down while the bearing-fit sets. Next job added to the list is to knock up something to replace the plastic drive shaft. I've cut some rough holes in the wheel arches, so it drops over the chassis. I might have to turn the rear suspension arms over and change the shock mounts, to shorten the wheelbase a little. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 15, 2017 A better mock-up. It'll be a bit higher when it's done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted June 15, 2017 On 11/06/2017 at 7:35 PM, Granddad Stinky said: Started the upgrades. I used Kyosho thread lock. Will it work on a Tamiya? 🤔 No need for threadlock for the metal ball end into plastic. I use threadlock only for metal screws into metal threads. Othweise you'll risk the plastic breaking. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 15, 2017 2 hours ago, GregM said: No need for threadlock for the metal ball end into plastic. I use threadlock only for metal screws into metal threads. Othweise you'll risk the plastic breaking. The threadlock/bearing fit was to stop the bearings rattling in their sockets. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 15, 2017 High tech body shell height positioning system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 15, 2017 Body is about where I want i and It's looking a bit better now. I'm easing the sides of the wheel arches. Rear back a bit, front forward a bit. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted June 15, 2017 3 hours ago, Granddad Stinky said: The threadlock/bearing fit was to stop the bearings rattling in their sockets. Shouldn't be used there, too, unless you've got metal hubs. Nice to see your build coming along. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kingfisher 1171 Posted June 15, 2017 Looks great so far. Nice progress. Look forward to seeing where this goes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 16, 2017 On 16/06/2017 at 0:19 AM, Kingfisher said: Looks great so far. Nice progress. Look forward to seeing where this goes. Thankyou. 😁 Did a bit of fiddling with hot glue and bits of stick. I've left 15mm of Lexan at the front and back, and the side pieces that look like running boards. I think it makes it look more of a brutish hooligan. The body is parallel to the belly pan and come's half way down it so you can't see straight through. Next trick is the suspension. The front's are 70mm the backs are 95mm. Now I've set the body height, I need to raise the ground clearance at bit. So I can fit 80-85 mm shocks front and rear. I'm looking for the max amount of suspension travel and ground clearance built in, the extra tyre height will be a bonus. Pics are with OE wheels at 83mm dia to the end of the spikes. I'm looking at 95 dia, so there's another 6mm clearance. This is going to be a real thrasher, and I hate skating across rough ground on the belly like so many on YouTube. Back to the running gear next. Machining the diffs to fit and making PTFE bushes for the steering and suspension. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Granddad Stinky 975 Posted June 16, 2017 17 hours ago, GregM said: Shouldn't be used there, too, unless you've got metal hubs. Nice to see your build coming along. Thanks. It's ok though Loctite 243 doesn't damage the plastic, it fills the gaps with blue plastic, about the same consistency as a lego brick. The bearings come out again with a sharp tap. I've made two little dollies to fit the inner and outer races as appropriate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
