Granddad Stinky's Monster Truggy.

[Kingfisher 1171]

I don't understand. How did you end up with bad camber and poor fitting parts? Are the white bottom arms different than the black top arms? Make up for it with some end links and M3 threaded rod, or a turnbuckle kit.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

1 hour ago, Kingfisher said:

I don't understand. How did you end up with bad camber and poor fitting parts? Are the white bottom arms different than the black top arms? Make up for it with some end links and M3 threaded rod, or a turnbuckle kit.

I couldn't find any TT02B arms in white, so I fitted the black ones. With the low level top suspension mount from the TT02, it gave the camber problem. It was a lot, around 15 degrees because of the lower arm length.

I'm after the maximum suspension travel I can get, not like the red chassis F-150 truck, that still has short springs but high body. I want some extra movement for some off roading and a few jumps. Mine will have 95mm CVAs all around and I'm making custom aluminium shock mounts/upper arm mount to make the most of the travel. It's mocked up with 3mm ply at the moment and the body mounts will be on the shock towers as well. I've taken some pics, I'll sort out my new showroom tomorrow.

I've got a following search saved on eBay for the Lancia rally car. I've just bought a few bits and I'll add them to the white parts. I can use all of the white parts on the Lancia, instead of wasting a third of what I bought.

[Kingfisher 1171]

On 6/30/2017 at 3:31 PM, Granddad Stinky said:

With the low level top suspension mount from the TT02, it gave the camber problem.

Why not get the FRP mount from TamiyaUSA? It's for the TT02B and should not give you any camber issues. In fact, it comes with adjustable upper arms so you can set your camber where you want it.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/hop-up-parts-72000/rc-frp-front-damper-stay-set-54556

[Granddad Stinky 975]

19 minutes ago, Kingfisher said:

Why not get the FRP mount from TamiyaUSA? It's for the TT02B and should not give you any camber issues. In fact, it comes with adjustable upper arms so you can set your camber where you want it.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/hop-up-parts-72000/rc-frp-front-damper-stay-set-54556

If I ever get my pics sorted out or get TCPhotos to work i could show you.

I've bought four 95mm CVAs and I'm making two identical shock mounts as the front and rear gearbox parts are the same. The idea is to lay the shocks down a bit more and build in the maximum amount of suspension movement that the chassis parts will allow. You could say a raised truggy, with a dollop of rock crawler. Most of the monster trucks seem to have high bodies but standard suspension travel.

I hope that makes sense. It's quite like this, but with more ground clearance, the most I can dial into it.

You can also look at my showroom under Truck Build.

I hope that all make some kind of sense.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

I'm having real problems in uploading photos to my showroom. But let's see if this works......

A build update.

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=131004&id=48116

 

Could someone tell me if the link works for you please. 🤷‍♂️

[TheMidnight Pumpkin 260]

Yep I can see your build from that link. I'd use adjustable tie rods to change the chamber for the rear wheels to prevent the rubbing. If I understand your problem correctly from the pictures.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

1 hour ago, TheMidnight Pumpkin said:

Yep I can see your build from that link. I'd use adjustable tie rods to change the chamber for the rear wheels to prevent the rubbing. If I understand your problem correctly from the pictures.

Thankyou.

That's not quite the problem. Keeping the wheels upright, the ride height is restricted by the axles rubbing on top of the rear arms. At the front, the sharp edge of the carrier meets the radius of the cross part of the lower arm. I have more photos but I'm having a nightmare with loading them on.

[TheMidnight Pumpkin 260]

Can you just clearance the arms with a dremel? Or turn the axles to clear the arms? (its hard to suggest a solution when you don't have the parts in hand)

I frequently heat an ice pick to melt plastic for numerous tasks.  I drill holes with it, clearance parts, cut parts like a hot knife, etc.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

3 minutes ago, TheMidnight Pumpkin said:

Can you just clearance the arms with a dremel? Or turn the axles to clear the arms? (its hard to suggest a solution when you don't have the parts in hand)

I frequently heat an ice pick to melt plastic for numerous tasks.  I drill holes with it, clearance parts, cut parts like a hot knife, etc.

I've sorted the front by putting a radius around the outside of the hub carrier. I get my lathe out and modify the axle cups.

We think alike. I've got an old soldering iron with a tip filed to a thin blade. 😁

There's another couple of pics on my showroom.

[TheMidnight Pumpkin 260]

You know the axle touching like that is not a giant contact patch based on the picture. You might be able to just drive the car and let it "wear in" instead of clearancing the arm. I'm not saying its the most right way. But it appears like it would work.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

13 minutes ago, TheMidnight Pumpkin said:

You know the axle touching like that is not a giant contact patch based on the picture. You might be able to just drive the car and let it "wear in" instead of clearancing the arm. I'm not saying its the most right way. But it appears like it would work.

OMG! NO!

That would really trigger my OCD. I'd end up having to do housework. 😲

[TheMidnight Pumpkin 260]

5 hours ago, Granddad Stinky said:

OMG! NO!

That would really trigger my OCD. I'd end up having to do housework. 😲

-LOL   Fair enough. Then I have another idea. The contact area appears to be what, maybe 1mm at the most? So what if you just move the shock to the end hole which will slightly lower the chassis. It appears in this picture that it would pull the suspension arm up, in return allow more clearance for the axle. Then you would likely need to adjust the fronts, but if it solves the problem....

[Granddad Stinky 975]

On 05/07/2017 at 6:28 AM, TheMidnight Pumpkin said:

-LOL   Fair enough. Then I have another idea. The contact area appears to be what, maybe 1mm at the most? So what if you just move the shock to the end hole which will slightly lower the chassis. It appears in this picture that it would pull the suspension arm up, in return allow more clearance for the axle. Then you would likely need to adjust the fronts, but if it solves the problem....

That's the point, I want the arm to go down and the chassis up. I'll have to machine the appropriate angle on the axle end to allow this.

[sellig 62]

Hi Granddad, I'm not sure about understanding everything, but why not use CVD? I encounter the same problems on my DT-02/03.

Apart from the fact that these shafts are stronger they also have a better efficiency.

Before:

After:

Obviously, you must change cups too.

EG : https://www.gpmracing-parts.com/tamiya-dt02dt03tt02b-alloy-steel-45-rear-cvd-drive-shaft-pr-gpm-dt3264sc-p-90068345.html

[Granddad Stinky 975]

On 05/07/2017 at 6:29 PM, sellig said:

Hi Granddad, I'm not sure about understanding everything, but why not use CVD? I encounter the same problems on my DT-02/03.

Apart from the fact that these shafts are stronger they also have a better efficiency.

Obviously, you must change cups too.

EG : https://www.gpmracing-parts.com/tamiya-dt02dt03tt02b-alloy-steel-45-rear-cvd-drive-shaft-pr-gpm-dt3264sc-p-90068345.html

I can turn the ends of the cups at an angle to clear the suspension arm. I did consider the UJs, but funds are a little short after my Kyosho spending spree.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

Here we go again. The Truck build, re-visited.

A brief recap, of the mocking up stage.

 

Hi tech body height setting tool. Yes, I made it myself. You can't just go out and buy this sort of quality!!

 

.... and the back.

 

Nooo Shox.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

Maximum ground clearance under buggy set up, I'll need more than that.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

Behold!! Body height setting tools - The Next Generation. Featuring Suspension Arm and special guest star, Shock Absorber Positioning System.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

Now featuring, The Quest For Increased Ground Clearance.

Wheel axle touching bottom rear arm.

 

Sharp corners of the front hub carriers digging into the radius of the lower arm.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

A matching radius on part of the hub carrier. That lets the suspension drop by 6mm.

 

Front first. Right hand (near side) is before. Left hand (off side) is after the carrier mod.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

The rear wheel axles now have this angle.

Which is enough to give me another 7 mm ground clearance at the back. The bigger wheels should be here soon.

 

[Country Mike 120]

ace

[_oliK 108]

Wow that's some serious increase in ground clearence...well done.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

3 hours ago, _oliK said:

Wow that's some serious increase in ground clearence...well done.

Thankyou.

Obviously I have to allow for a bit of sag/droop, so that it works properly, but every little helps.

I've ordered some bigger wheels as well.

[_oliK 108]

Does it even bottom out under full compression? o_O