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SuperChamp82

Toyota Hi Lux - Hop Ups

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Hi all,

I'm planning a build I've waited over 30 years to start - a Back To The Future, Toyota Hi Lux.

This will be my first ladder frame chassis and 3 speed gearbox so tips on essential hop ups would be great. 

All info appreciated but would really welcome advice on installing a brushless ESC / motor (for 3rd gear acceleration) and upgrading the friction shocks.

Thanks in advance,

 

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The Hi Lift and bruiser are very different and it all depends on what you want in the end.  If you want a runner get the Hilift, a shelfer then get the bruiser.

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This will definitely be a runner !

I'm really after excellent crawling with a gearbox that also offers acceleration with reasonable top speed from a brushless combo.

Does the Bruiser moving to 2WD in 2nd and 3rd gear make this easier / better than the Hi Lift's perm 4WD ?

Other Forums recommend putting a Hi Lux body on a RC4WD TF2 or SCX10 but I'm not convinced. 

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Hmmm, this actually sounds like you would be better with a CC01 or both...........you should get both.

My experience of the 3 speed high lifts is they don't handle high speed well, unless I have miss read what you are wanting.

They do still go fast with a decent KV brushless but the suspension and handling is sketchy at best.

They really are 1/10 scale through and through.

This means that 8mph feels like driving at a scale speed of 80mph with them. 

The standard shocks are pretty good and well damped with the leaf spring set up. If you want to go to oil dampers then switch the whole suspension out for the Junfac kit to see a notable improvement. 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=386625&gclid=CjwKEAjw9_jJBRCXycSarr3csWcSJABthk07BTJQQ5CZk08HpyjwaX8paBEjUw1NhTdmirkEWJ1h_BoCC3nw_wcB

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I agree with Prescient in that they don't handle well at speed. In third gear they go faster than you feel comfortable that beautiful hard body. 

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2 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Don't overlook RC4WD's TF2 too. 

The TF2 is a better truck in a lot of ways but the gear boxes are noisy and the low gearing makes the truck super slow.

 

 

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There is a great charm about the Tamiya 3 speed which no other brand can rival but for fun crawling and general bashing my money would be going one of the new Traxxas TRX-4 Land Rover Defender 110s.

Ready to run and fully waterproof with 3s capability plus really nice scale looks @ 0.6m long. Pretty quick and from the other vids excellent off road capability.

 

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Thanks guys - solid advice.

Opted for the Bruiser with hop ups. Nostalgia and quality won me over !

Any views on the best r/c set, ESC / motor combo + essential perks beyond the slipper clutch ?

Scouting around suggests a Futaba 4ch, Tekin RS Gen2 sensored 13.5 combo and damper upgrade ?

Thanks again - great forum :)

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Good shout on going full bruiser.......

Look at a Speed Passion 13.5T sensored motor from Modelsport then that will run on a standard Tamiya TBLE-02  ESC if going NiMH and you have that ESC. If you need to buy an ESC the the below sensored one is perfect and happy on NiMH or Lipo (built in cut off unlike the Tamiya)

Hobbywing 10bl60 brushless sensored ESC https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl60-sensored-bl-esc/rc-car-products/382832

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On 15/06/2017 at 2:11 PM, Prescient said:

Good shout on going full bruiser.......

Look at a Speed Passion 13.5T sensored motor from Modelsport then that will run on a standard Tamiya TBLE-02  ESC if going NiMH and you have that ESC. If you need to buy an ESC the the below sensored one is perfect and happy on NiMH or Lipo (built in cut off unlike the Tamiya)

Hobbywing 10bl60 brushless sensored ESC https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl60-sensored-bl-esc/rc-car-products/382832

Thanks Prescient.

Could I push the transmission / chassis a little harder ? Maybe down to a 7.5T to 9.5T rig ?

If so, what hop ups beyond the above would help stability / rigour in the transmission ?

I'm less concerned than I should be about  body dings from a roll - a quality sensored ESC will brake progressively and a whole black body will easily spray out.

The Bruiser's plastic roll bar + spot lights are also being replaced imported alloys with LEDs / KC yellow covers.

Its ambitious but this Back To The Future build will run like McFly had to hit 188mph in it !

Thanks in advance,

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It's the wrong truck for that.

They seriously handle and drive at scale speed. I.e. 8mph in a bruiser is like doing 80mph in a real off roader Hilux. There are no quick mods to fix this but sure you can put a fairly hefty 5000kv+ brushless in if you want and it will go reasonably quick.

RC trucks from Traxxas, HPI etc are designed ground up to do 40-70+mph at their size rather than being scaled back from their 1:1 counterparts which would be expected to reach 300-700mph. 

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Methinks the vintage Bruiser with stock RS750 motor will probably do 18.8mph in top gear... in a straight line... :D

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Thanks guys.

I ended up taking Prescient's advice and buying a CC01 as well as the Bruiser !

The CC01 will be a Land Rover D90 conversion running a Castle 5700Kv combo (!) and the Bruiser can be wound back to something suitable.

Would a 9.5 or 10.5t sensored set up be challenging across all terrain but not ludicrous working up through the gears ?

Thanks in advance,

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Great stuff, you can get always get the cc-01 lowering kit with 20T pinion for speed and stability. 

For the bruiser a 17.5T - 21.5T would be better suited but you may just need to experiment with 13.5T and 10.5T to see if it achieves what you want.  

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On 6/26/2017 at 4:34 PM, WillyChang said:

Methinks the vintage Bruiser with stock RS750 motor will probably do 18.8mph in top gear... in a straight line... :D

Where it - for no apparent reason whatsoever, promptly falls over ( :

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Ok guys - the Bruiser arrives on Thurs :) 

What hop ups and r/c do I need to pre-order now to start the build ?

Forum reviews suggest the re re came fully ball raced - so 46 pcs, including the transmission ? - and had an upgraded clutch - making the slipper unnecessary ? Correct ?

If so, that seems to leave me with just the Junfac 4 link suspension combo and maybe Punisher II shafts front and rear ?

My thinking re. the shafts is avoiding torsional twist putting strain on the drivetrain when a 10.5t or 13.5t motor is pushing it in third gear ?

The ESC / motor choice is still beyond me !

Tekin / Castle crawler combos are clearly superb but look unlikely to power more than 8 - 9 mph in 3rd.

Has anyone run the Traxxas Velineon 3500 ? Reviews suggests its powerfully smooth tethered to their VXL ESC. 

Also flirting with a sensored 10.5t Tekin Redline G2 powered by their sensored D2 ESC ? Again, reads like a sensible balance of delicate, low down grunt and progressive pace up top.

In terms of r/c, I don't want to cheapen my most expensive build to date but the Futaba Attack 4YWD gets consistently rave reviews - yes or no ?

And Hi Tec servos look expensive but mighty - maybe the 7955 for steering and 645 for the gears ?

Have I missed anything else ?

Thanks in advance,

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That Junfac kit is not for the Bruiser, rather the F350/Hilux high lift (3 speed plastic gear models).

I run a Futaba 10J, would highly recommend an 8J or 10J for many reasons, plenty for sale on ebay with very light use from drones etc. Much better option imho than the 4ch futaba, you can adjust so much and shift gear using a 3 position switch instead of the dated stick shift. You also have a huge model memory to run all your models off it and suitable 6ch receivers are like £25 and nice and compact.

 

 

 

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On 7/3/2017 at 8:12 PM, SuperChamp82 said:

Ok guys - the Bruiser arrives on Thurs :) 

What hop ups and r/c do I need to pre-order now to start the build ?

Forum reviews suggest the re re came fully ball raced - so 46 pcs, including the transmission ? - and had an upgraded clutch - making the slipper unnecessary ? Correct ?

If so, that seems to leave me with just the Junfac 4 link suspension combo and maybe Punisher II shafts front and rear ?

My thinking re. the shafts is avoiding torsional twist putting strain on the drivetrain when a 10.5t or 13.5t motor is pushing it in third gear ?

The ESC / motor choice is still beyond me !

Tekin / Castle crawler combos are clearly superb but look unlikely to power more than 8 - 9 mph in 3rd.

Has anyone run the Traxxas Velineon 3500 ? Reviews suggests its powerfully smooth tethered to their VXL ESC. 

Also flirting with a sensored 10.5t Tekin Redline G2 powered by their sensored D2 ESC ? Again, reads like a sensible balance of delicate, low down grunt and progressive pace up top.

In terms of r/c, I don't want to cheapen my most expensive build to date but the Futaba Attack 4YWD gets consistently rave reviews - yes or no ?

And Hi Tec servos look expensive but mighty - maybe the 7955 for steering and 645 for the gears ?

Have I missed anything else ?

Thanks in advance,

1. Mine came fully ball-raced.

2. I added the slipper clutch. Compared to the rest of the kit, it's a small price to pay to add a little protection to the gearbox.

3. I wouldn't bother with 4-links on the Bruiser. It isn't, and never will be, a competent crawler by any means. Buy an SCX10 for that. Enjoy it for what it is.

4. I run the stock 540 motor with std. pinion. As bullet #3 says - unless you want to convert it into something it isn't, you don't need much more. Should I go "ballistic", I'd go for an RC4WD 750 motor. No more than that.

5. I changed the stock ESC to a used programmable Castle Creations as I didn't like the (almost instant) drag brake on the Tamiya ESC. I like it to coast to a stop (also to help prevent wear on the gearbox: See bullet #2).

6. I run Spektrum DX3Es on my 2-3 gear models. They're cheap, easy to adjust and the 2-3 position thumb switch is perfect for shifting. I know it's only a one model TX, but I can only have so many cars that needs gear change. (I also dislike stick TXs)

7. I use a Savöx for steering. See bullet #3 again. Anything without too much jitter will do fine for shifting.

[Edit:] 8. Strictly cosmetical -  I bought a set of alloys with a little more offset on the front to align the track front and rear. You hardly see the 5mm difference on the wheels, but the overall look is so much better.

( :

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On 05/07/2017 at 11:22 AM, Flerbizky said:

1. Mine came fully ball-raced.

2. I added the slipper clutch. Compared to the rest of the kit, it's a small price to pay to add a little protection to the gearbox.

3. I wouldn't bother with 4-links on the Bruiser. It isn't, and never will be, a competent crawler by any means. Buy an SCX10 for that. Enjoy it for what it is.

4. I run the stock 540 motor with std. pinion. As bullet #3 says - unless you want to convert it into something it isn't, you don't need much more. Should I go "ballistic", I'd go for an RC4WD 750 motor. No more than that.

5. I changed the stock ESC to a used programmable Castle Creations as I didn't like the (almost instant) drag brake on the Tamiya ESC. I like it to coast to a stop (also to help prevent wear on the gearbox: See bullet #2).

6. I run Spektrum DX3Es on my 2-3 gear models. They're cheap, easy to adjust and the 2-3 position thumb switch is perfect for shifting. I know it's only a one model TX, but I can only have so many cars that needs gear change. (I also dislike stick TXs)

7. I use a Savöx for steering. See bullet #3 again. Anything without too much jitter will do fine for shifting.

[Edit:] 8. Strictly cosmetical -  I bought a set of alloys with a little more offset on the front to align the track front and rear. You hardly see the 5mm difference on the wheels, but the overall look is so much better.

( :

Thanks Flerbizky - that's exactly what I wanted. 

Opted for your RC4WD 750 tethered to a Hobbywing 1080 crawler 80a ESC. Hopeful the torque and 80a will let me up the pinion to c. 20t to give me better speed in 3rd ? 

Ditched the bearings (you were right, full set with the re re) and Junfac rear suspension (ludicrous after opening the kit) but kept the slipper clutch and a full LED set. 

Punisher shafts front and rear felt like overkill for the lower speed rig.

R/c went semi-retro with the Futaba 4YWD and a gear shift gate from the US.

Now wondering about scale bits for the interior - any thought on c. £200 for a decent cabin / driver ?

Thanks again all.

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Thanks for the motor recommendation  @Flerbizky 

The RC4WD 750 just arrived !

Its (predictably) bigger than the 540 - is there anything I need to know installing it or does the gearbox aperture work stock ?

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8 hours ago, SuperChamp82 said:

Thanks for the motor recommendation  @Flerbizky 

The RC4WD 750 just arrived !

Its (predictably) bigger than the 540 - is there anything I need to know installing it or does the gearbox aperture work stock ?

My original which comes with a 750 as standard does have a small bracket over the front chassis-brace which supports the motor - but I would have no issues sticking a 750 in my re-re without it. Else they're the same, so off you go (:

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