Over-modded Neo Scorcher

[Kingfisher 1171]

I never actually made a build thread for my Neo Scorcher. I only posted pics of the chassis in a Neo Scorcher thread. A few days ago, I finally got around to completing the body. I originally procrastinated on doing the stickers in fear that I would screw up, and I really liked the box art. I recently found a post by @shenlonco explaining to use a little bit of Windex on the backside of the stickers. This allows you to re-position the sticker many times. After you have it where you want, just squeegee out the Windex with a paper towel. This worked wonderfully, and I finished the body. 

Here's what went into the build. This was a case of "I know it doesn't need it, I just want it". 

I have not installed the high speed spur gear yet. I did put a brushed HPI Firebolt 15T motor and a 21 tooth pinion. 

ESC is a HobbyWing Quicrun 1060

Showing the steering. I'm still using the stock tie rods, but there is a lot of play in them. This will be changed soon.

 

With the stock tires, the 15T motor and 21 tooth pinion seemed ok for testing on the street. I then changed the tires to something taller because I liked the added ground clearance. I found the tires on eBay. They stand just as tall as the Lunchbox wheels, and the brand is Kforce.

With the taller tires, the motor gets hot real quick, it drains the battery really fast, and feels like it doesn't have brakes. Way too much gear, not enough motor. I have a 9T 4370kv brushless motor and ESC for it that I will be installing today. I also plan to go back to the 17 tooth pinion when I put the brushless setup in there. I'm also still running on NiMh batteries as I have not yet made the jump to LiPo. So, I would say that I am off to a good start with lots of room to improve. Future updates to follow.

[GregM 1109]

That looks like a lot of costly nice blue bling you've got there. I agree, using a tall spur gear and a small pinion is strongly recommended when going for tall tires and a low turns brushed motor. The brushless motor might handle overgearing a bit better, but it still might get too hot since it is a low turns motor, too. I thought universal driveshaft joints are mainly used for the front drivetrain of a 4WD car?

As I always like to say, let us know how the plastic suspension mounts on the chassis cope with the heavy aluminium suspension arms...

[Buggyjam 144]

4 hours ago, GregM said:

That looks like a lot of costly nice blue bling you've got there. I agree, using a tall spur gear and a small pinion is strongly recommended when going for tall tires and a low turns brushed motor. The brushless motor might handle overgearing a bit better, but it still might get too hot since it is a low turns motor, too. I thought universal driveshaft joints are mainly used for the front drivetrain of a 4WD car?

As I always like to say, let us know how the plastic suspension mounts on the chassis cope with the heavy aluminium suspension arms...

I've got that yeah racing set on a neo scorcher but have taken quite a few bits off now. Running castle 57 mamba max on it. The plastic suspension mounts held up no bother with some serious punishment. I bent the front wire yoke in an impact but the plastic was fine. The A arms are pretty good and strong. I changed the hub carriers back to stock ones as they have more give. Other yeah bits bits I took off were the front suspension tower as it drooped the mounts due too many holes.

I was running stock pinion and the Tamiya high speed spur with 2.2 wheels and dirt hawgs. My castle was running hot, but within limits depending on how hot outside it was. Had 2 fans on the go. Cooling was an issue and had to give it breaks in running to cool down.

 

I think those bigger wheels in the photo and brushless will cause an overheat unless geared right down.

[Kingfisher 1171]

Thanks for the information. I'll take it into consideration. I'm already considering going back to some stock parts after today's backyard testing. I wanted it because I was new to RC, and it looked cool at the time. Greg is right, it's just blue bling. The Tamiya parts hold up just fine. This I know from my other Tamiya's. 

Today, I swapped out the motor and ESC for the 4370 brushless setup and pinion for the 17T pinion. It ran much better, and the motor barely got warm. I only tested it on freshly cut grass, but it ran great compared to my previous configuration.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

13 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

I never actually made a build thread for my Neo Scorcher. I only posted pics of the chassis in a Neo Scorcher thread. A few days ago, I finally got around to completing the body. I originally procrastinated on doing the stickers in fear that I would screw up, and I really liked the box art. I recently found a post by @shenlonco explaining to use a little bit of Windex on the backside of the stickers. This allows you to re-position the sticker many times. After you have it where you want, just squeegee out the Windex with a paper towel. This worked wonderfully, and I finished the body. 

Here's what went into the build. This was a case of "I know it doesn't need it, I just want it". 

I have not installed the high speed spur gear yet. I did put a brushed HPI Firebolt 15T motor and a 21 tooth pinion. 

ESC is a HobbyWing Quicrun 1060

Showing the steering. I'm still using the stock tie rods, but there is a lot of play in them. This will be changed soon.

 

I have your video as a favourite in my YouTube. Very impressive! 

[Buggyjam 144]

7 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

Thanks for the information. I'll take it into consideration. I'm already considering going back to some stock parts after today's backyard testing. I wanted it because I was new to RC, and it looked cool at the time. Greg is right, it's just blue bling. The Tamiya parts hold up just fine. This I know from my other Tamiya's. 

Today, I swapped out the motor and ESC for the 4370 brushless setup and pinion for the 17T pinion. It ran much better, and the motor barely got warm. I only tested it on freshly cut grass, but it ran great compared to my previous configuration.

 Was the same, blinged it up :-). The only yeah bit that broke was the front tower, I only decided to replace the hub carriers back to stock just to have a more "spongy" bit before the arms and chassis to soak up some shocks. Having the metal steering and alloy central drive shaft is way better than stock. 

 

Good job on the gearing, if it's running cool on cut grass you'll be fine! 

[Kingfisher 1171]

8 hours ago, Granddad Stinky said:

I have your video as a favourite in my YouTube. Very impressive! 

I don't have a video on Youtube, sorry. 

1 hour ago, Buggyjam said:

 Was the same, blinged it up :-). The only yeah bit that broke was the front tower, I only decided to replace the hub carriers back to stock just to have a more "spongy" bit before the arms and chassis to soak up some shocks. Having the metal steering and alloy central drive shaft is way better than stock. 

 

Good job on the gearing, if it's running cool on cut grass you'll be fine! 

I agree. The central driveshaft, metal axles, steering, and adjustable turnbuckles for camber are the only things worth having. Thanks.

[drcarlos 57]

The shock towers to get are the Carbon ones IMO, the one I have (Eagle Racing I think) have been great. I have Alloy C hubs, turnbuckles and rear hubs and they have all been great, I kept plastic arms after reading sometime ago that alloy ones were a waste of money. I haven't got the alloy propshaft or the universals but might add them if I go back to the track with it. They are tough little buggies though and good fun.

Carl.

[Granddad Stinky 975]

Sorry, mixed you up with another big wheel one.

 

[Macinnis 226]

Did you put in gravel hound differentials?

[shenlonco 1156]

On 6/13/2017 at 7:24 AM, Kingfisher said:

I never actually made a build thread for my Neo Scorcher. I only posted pics of the chassis in a Neo Scorcher thread. A few days ago, I finally got around to completing the body. I originally procrastinated on doing the stickers in fear that I would screw up, and I really liked the box art. I recently found a post by @shenlonco explaining to use a little bit of Windex on the backside of the stickers. This allows you to re-position the sticker many times. After you have it where you want, just squeegee out the Windex with a paper towel. This worked wonderfully, and I finished the body. 

Here's what went into the build. This was a case of "I know it doesn't need it, I just want it". 

I have not installed the high speed spur gear yet. I did put a brushed HPI Firebolt 15T motor and a 21 tooth pinion. 

ESC is a HobbyWing Quicrun 1060

Showing the steering. I'm still using the stock tie rods, but there is a lot of play in them. This will be changed soon.

 

With the stock tires, the 15T motor and 21 tooth pinion seemed ok for testing on the street. I then changed the tires to something taller because I liked the added ground clearance. I found the tires on eBay. They stand just as tall as the Lunchbox wheels, and the brand is Kforce.

With the taller tires, the motor gets hot real quick, it drains the battery really fast, and feels like it doesn't have brakes. Way too much gear, not enough motor. I have a 9T 4370kv brushless motor and ESC for it that I will be installing today. I also plan to go back to the 17 tooth pinion when I put the brushless setup in there. I'm also still running on NiMh batteries as I have not yet made the jump to LiPo. So, I would say that I am off to a good start with lots of room to improve. Future updates to follow.

Thanks and she looks like a BEAUTY!! 

[Buggyjam 144]

12 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

I don't have a video on Youtube, sorry. 

I agree. The central driveshaft, metal axles, steering, and adjustable turnbuckles for camber are the only things worth having. Thanks.

I switched out the stock dogs to metal 3 racing drive shafts. Very nice but they started to show signs of chew up within 10 packs of big castle brushless power. The stock dogs and shafts were fine and no marks at all and had suffered far longer. I've read people had the stock shafts snap on stock motors?! Who knows what they must be doing to them. I still like the 3 racing units for the more efficient power delivery. But when they fail or wear out, I've already decided the stock ones will be going back in until they fail too which will probably be a decent amount of time.

 

It may not be a handling buggy but in stock form it is uber tough minus the diffs and central shaft. Sort the diffs and torsiontastic central shaft and I honestly think you could run a castle all day in it with no extra add ons.  It'll steer like rubbish and have the rubber suspension towers but it won't break. It really is tough 

 

[Kingfisher 1171]

On 6/14/2017 at 6:21 AM, Macinnis said:

Did you put in gravel hound differentials?

Yes. I put the metal drive gear and ring gear in the rear. I also used a YR diff locker in the rear. When I built it, I was under the impression that I only needed to put the metal gears in the rear because of weight transfer. I still have the plastic pinion and gears up front. Yesterday while testing in the back yard, I started hearing a "click" sound on hard acceleration from a stop, with lots of traction. I can recreate this sound by holding the car in my hand hand going from reverse to forward suddenly. I've diagnosed this to be the front plastic gears skipping, so the next thing I plan to do is to put the metal gears up front as well. 

 

On 6/14/2017 at 4:27 PM, shenlonco said:

Thanks and she looks like a BEAUTY!! 

Thank you for helping me get over my fear of ruining the stickers. Seriously, I have 4 kits built so far, and this is the first one I have actually completed the stickers on, lol.

On 6/14/2017 at 5:16 PM, Buggyjam said:

I switched out the stock dogs to metal 3 racing drive shafts. Very nice but they started to show signs of chew up within 10 packs of big castle brushless power. The stock dogs and shafts were fine and no marks at all and had suffered far longer. I've read people had the stock shafts snap on stock motors?! Who knows what they must be doing to them. I still like the 3 racing units for the more efficient power delivery. But when they fail or wear out, I've already decided the stock ones will be going back in until they fail too which will probably be a decent amount of time.

 

It may not be a handling buggy but in stock form it is uber tough minus the diffs and central shaft. Sort the diffs and torsiontastic central shaft and I honestly think you could run a castle all day in it with no extra add ons.  It'll steer like rubbish and have the rubber suspension towers but it won't break. It really is tough 

 

Thanks for the info. I'll monitor my metal drive axles to see how they do. The 4370kv brushless is the fastest motor I have, and I am already getting used to it. I may step it up to something faster in the near future. I bet the 4370kv motor would really make my M06 Alfa scream. The M06 I have currently only has a silver can in it. 

[TwistedxSlayer 1290]

It's not skipping gears, the front crown wheel is flexing, the noise is when it flexes back and hits the bevel gear. 

[Kingfisher 1171]

Swapped the front gears for the metal gear today. No more clicking sound.

So, I took it to a nearby school where they have various track and field activities set up. There's a good sized hill that I ran the car up, and made for a fun hill climb thowing dirt with all 4 wheels.

Then, I wanted to test the top speed on dirt. There was a strip of decomposed granite where they do long sprints. I did not know that there was a curb at the end, and when I hit it at full speed, it sent my car flying into the air. While in the air, the back end passed up the front, and it landed right on the metal rear shock tower brace. I knew you were all right about the metal on plastic, but I had to learn from experience. Lesson learned. The landing pulled the screws right through the rear diff cover.

 

Yeah Racing? Yeah Right.

Luckily, I was able to find all 3 screws. They screwed back in, and tightened up, but worked their way out again after a few runs. 

I came home and removed the Year Racing rear shock support and temporarily replaced it for the flimsy stock piece.

 

 

Then, promptly went onto TamiyaUSA and ordered a pair of FRP rear shock supports. (Currently $12.99 USD)

I'm hoping I can get the screws to hold the FRP piece in with threadlock. If not, then i'll thread them for bigger screws. If that doesn't work, then i'll find another rear diff cover. 

Build, bash, break, repeat, right?

Some pics:

 

 

 

[Granddad Stinky 975]

24 minutes ago, Kingfisher said:

Swapped the front gears for the metal gear today. No more clicking sound.

So, I took it to a nearby school where they have various track and field activities set up. There's a good sized hill that I ran the car up, and made for a fun hill climb thowing dirt with all 4 wheels.

Then, I wanted to test the top speed on dirt. There was a strip of decomposed granite where they do long sprints. I did not know that there was a curb at the end, and when I hit it at full speed, it sent my car flying into the air. While in the air, the back end passed up the front, and it landed right on the metal rear shock tower brace. I knew you were all right about the metal on plastic, but I had to learn from experience. Lesson learned. The landing pulled the screws right through the rear diff cover.

 

Yeah Racing? Yeah Right.

Luckily, I was able to find all 3 screws. They screwed back in, and tightened up, but worked their way out again after a few runs. 

I came home and removed the Year Racing rear shock support and temporarily replaced it for the flimsy stock piece.

 

 

Then, promptly went onto TamiyaUSA and ordered a pair of FRP rear shock supports. (Currently $12.99 USD)

I'm hoping I can get the screws to hold the FRP piece in with threadlock. If not, then i'll thread them for bigger screws. If that doesn't work, then i'll find another rear diff cover. 

Build, bash, break, repeat, right?

Some pics:

 

 

 

Drill through and use M3 bolts and nylocs. Problem solved. 👍

[Kingfisher 1171]

11 hours ago, Granddad Stinky said:

Drill through and use M3 bolts and nylocs. Problem solved. 👍

Good idea! I have a set of M3 bolts/nuts that I got from Harbor Fright. 

[Effigy3 1267]

13 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

Luckily, I was able to find all 3 screws. They screwed back in, and tightened up, but worked their way out again after a few runs. Then, promptly went onto TamiyaUSA and ordered a pair of FRP rear shock supports. (Currently $12.99 USD)

I'm hoping I can get the screws to hold the FRP piece in with thread lock. If not, then i'll thread them for bigger screws. If that doesn't work, then i'll find another rear diff cover. 

Build, bash, break, repeat, right?

If you have issues with the screws pulling out you could try using the blue chassis (47339) and A sprue (47333) along with a stainless steel screw kit like the one from R/C Screwz (TAM169).  The combination of harder plastic and finer thread really improves how well the screws bite.  Personally I won't build another TT-02 with stock screws ever again.

[Rb4276 803]

I had issues with screws backing out on my tt02b with the rear gear case and motor case. I switched to yeah racing stainles steel hexes and now have no issues. 

[Rb4276 803]

Today i finally hooked up and ran my castle 4600kv in my tt02b ms. First i had the gearing 19t and 68t spur but didnt like the top end. I then upped it to 22t which was much better and nice punch. Its not flying or pulling wheelies but its doing around 40mph which is good. Only thing i may have to watch is the temps but so far so good. If there are issues i will lower a tooth or two

[Macinnis 226]

3 hours ago, Rb4276 said:

Today i finally hooked up and ran my castle 4600kv in my tt02b ms. First i had the gearing 19t and 68t spur but didnt like the top end. I then upped it to 22t which was much better and nice punch. Its not flying or pulling wheelies but its doing around 40mph which is good. Only thing i may have to watch is the temps but so far so good. If there are issues i will lower a tooth or two

Drop in a 29t pinion and 64t spur and watch the magic. It's scary fast. 

[Rb4276 803]

9 hours ago, Macinnis said:

Drop in a 29t pinion and 64t spur and watch the magic. It's scary fast. 

I may try it one time. I  still have 25,27,29 and 30t pinions. 

[Macinnis 226]

I tried the 135mm monster truck tires from Tom top and my castle motor or esc overheated.  At the time I was running the 68 spur with the 19t pinion.  Did you find a good combo that ran cooler with large tires?

[Rb4276 803]

No i have pro line dirt hawgs on it now because i was running it in front of my house. They are slightly bigger than the norm. I also have a set of pro line blockade for offroad which i havent run with the new motor. 

Did you leave the castle motor to the factory settings? The only thing i increased was the punch