Stuff required for builds?

[HereBeMonsters 9]

Bought two kits recently as I've got space to build again. I've been running my current stable off and on for a while now, sold a lot of the things I don't use, but still get some decent running out of my Lunch Box, Bear Hawk and TT-01.

My little boy (aged 3, so too young to really get into r/c just yet!) has chosen me a Top Force re-re and a Stadium Blitzer. I've already got for both of them:
Full bearings
Radio gear
Motors
ESCs

And I've treated myself to a new Tamiya cutting mat and set of Tamiya screwdrivers to build them with. I know I need paint (my least favourite bit of any build) - but don't know what type and colours? Will be doing box art to begin with.
What else have I forgotten - do I need grease? Thread lock? Tyre cement?

Thanks in advance - Don't want to start building only to find out I've not got something I need.
 

[TurnipJF 9718]

In addition to the above, a means of separating parts from sprues is a good idea. I use a Stanley knife (carefully) while others use side cutters. Tamiya make some very nice ones I gather.

 

Tyre glue is a good idea. Most people use cyanoacrylate. (Basically superglue.)

 

Grease is supplied in the kits.

 

Thread lock is a good idea for metal-into-metal threads, eg motor pinion grub screws. Go for blue, not red, otherwise you'll never get it undone again. And of course avoid letting it get into contact with the plastics, as many thread locks make plastic parts brittle.

 

Both your models use polycarbonate bodyshells, so will require PS paint. The manuals will tell you the colour codes to use for a box-art paint job.

[Peter_B 997]

3 isn't too young, look...

 

[HereBeMonsters 9]

Ah yes, a decent scalpel-type knife. I used to have one, no idea where it is now.

Do you think it's a good idea to start with steel pinions? Both will be running fairly hot motors - Superstock BZ, Dynatech 02H or an EZ Run 9T Brushless, not decided yet!

[HereBeMonsters 9]

1 minute ago, Peter_B said:

3 isn't too young, look...

 

Haha! My plan is to run these myself, then if he's interested, let him loose on my Yokomo crawler. If he masters that, probably get him a Grasshopper for Christmas.

 

[TurnipJF 9718]

Steel pinions are a popular upgrade, yes. RW Racing make a nice selection in 0.6 module (for the Top Force) and 0.8 module ( for the Stadium Blitzer).

 

Also, when you say you have already sourced radio gear, I presume that this includes servos? If not, you'll need those too.

[HereBeMonsters 9]

5 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Steel pinions are a popular upgrade, yes. RW Racing make a nice selection in 0.6 module (for the Top Force) and 0.8 module ( for the Stadium Blitzer).

Thanks for the pointer, but blimey, there's a lot of choice on there. Happily, they're about a ten minute drive from me. What number of teeth would you recommend for say, the Top Force with the BZ, and the Stadium Blitzer with the brushless?

[TurnipJF 9718]

Hmm. Now you're asking!

 

With the BZ, you probably want to go down a tooth or two from stock, as all else being equal, lower turn motors like to be able to rev more than higher turn motors.

 

As for the brushless, I have no idea. My experience of brushless is limited to the 21.5t sensored one in my F103. I don't know how this would relate to the lower turns and smaller can size of the EZ Run 9T you mention. Hopefully someone with more experience of this motor will be able to advise.

[GregM 1109]

The basic tools required for a build are usually listed on the first pages of a Tamiya kit manual.

HereBeMonster, good choice on the cutting mat and Tamiya screwdrivers.
I would also get a pair of flush sidecutters for plastic models, 9 out of 10 times these will save you from having to use a hobby knife for trimming sprue residue.
For hobby knives, I despise the common x-acto knives, especially those with a metal body. The type of blade is inconvenient and unsafe, and the metal body has a tendency to unscrew itself and get loose in the worst situations. I rather appreciate Tamiya's craft knife #74040, never failed me once and comes with a large reservoir of spare blades.
Angled needle-nose pliers are great for connecting and disconnecting ball studs with ball cups. The angled variant has the advantage of getting into crammed spaces more easily, e.g. when connecting steering links.

[TurnipJF 9718]

Something else to consider is the geartrain. When I was looking into restoring a Manta Ray, one of the recommended upgrades for it was to swap out the mixed metal and plastic gears from the rear gearbox for an all-plastic set from the TA-02 touring car, as the soft alloy wears out quicker than the more resilient plastic does.

 

I am not certain, but I strongly suspect that the Top Force uses the same mix of metal and plastic gears, and would thus benefit from the same upgrade.

[Prescient 673]

Needle files and some 600-2000 grit wet and dry to remove and burrs and rough edges on the plastic parts + tidying up the edges on the body.

[HereBeMonsters 9]

2 hours ago, GregM said:

The basic tools required for a build are usually listed on the first pages of a Tamiya kit manual.

HereBeMonster, good choice on the cutting mat and Tamiya screwdrivers.
I would also get a pair of flush sidecutters for plastic models, 9 out of 10 times these will save you from having to use a hobby knife for trimming sprue residue.
For hobby knives, I despise the common x-acto knives, especially those with a metal body. The type of blade is inconvenient and unsafe, and the metal body has a tendency to unscrew itself and get loose in the worst situations. I rather appreciate Tamiya's craft knife #74040, never failed me once and comes with a large reservoir of spare blades.
Angled needle-nose pliers are great for connecting and disconnecting ball studs with ball cups. The angled variant has the advantage of getting into crammed spaces more easily, e.g. when connecting steering links.

Great advice, thanks very much. I had no idea what flush sidecutters were, so I googled them, and it turns out I have some already!
I'll get that Tamiya knife if I can find a UK stockist, and the sandpaper too. Thanks all, it's coming together!

[Wooders28 4857]

One of the things I like to do (Although I've only built a few kits!) Is to have small containers (jam jar lid etc) to put various screw sizes into before the start of the build, ie, 3x5 in one, 3x10's in another etc. One,it stops them rolling off the table onto the floor and into a Bermuda triangle of a carpet, and two, they are in easy reach,saving faff time.

[WillyChang 1816]

1 hour ago, Wooders28 said:

One of the things I like to do (Although I've only built a few kits!) Is to have small containers (jam jar lid etc) to put various screw sizes into before the start of the build, ie, 3x5 in one, 3x10's in another etc. One,it stops them rolling off the table onto the floor and into a Bermuda triangle of a carpet, and two, they are in easy reach,saving faff time.

Use an old icecube tray or I collect the ones from supermarket that hold raw meatballs, great for screws. T made a great parts tray with a spiky silicone mat lining the bottom... works great, wasn't cheap,

Get a scrap of carpet or a big furry towel to lay on workbench, stops most things rolling away. Can buy fancy pitmats & the like but I ain't the trendy type.

[Wooders28 4857]

39 minutes ago, WillyChang said:

Use an old icecube tray or I collect the ones from supermarket that hold raw meatballs,

Good shout, bet Poundland would have them.

[WillyChang 1816]

Good lord, don't go BUYING new trays ... you've won the lottery or sumthink?!

The free meatball trays are great, I rip open each bag into a tray and the small screws fall into the pits, the bigger parts float on top.

i only want the bigger parts, I don't use the kit screws  I prefer to spend my shekels on stainless hex machinetreads

[Macinnis 226]

I didn't see anyone mention Servos.  I personally only have enough servos for my current runners. I had my tt02b build on hold because I forgot the steering servo.   

[HereBeMonsters 9]

2 minutes ago, Macinnis said:

I didn't see anyone mention Servos.  I personally only have enough servos for my current runners. I had my tt02b build on hold because I forgot the steering servo.   

badword, I knew there was SOMETHING massively important that I'd forget!

Recommendations? Let's say budget of around £50 for both?

[Macinnis 226]

For my WT-01 Bush Devil 2 i bought the $30  Hitec 32645S HS-645MG High Torque 2BB Metal Gear servo.  After going through a dozen or so servo savers I finally got a good one that could handle the torque of the servo.    Realizing that servo was overkill I bought the $13 Futaba S3004 Standard Ball Bearing Servo for my buggy and it's more than capable. 

[GregM 1109]

I use Futaba S3003 for my 2WD buggies and 4WD touring cars. Savöx SC-0254MG for my 2WD big wheel cars and 4WD buggies.

Macinnis, out of curiosity, what's the spline count on that Hitec servo hub? Is it compatible with Tamiya's kit supplied 23 and 25 count servo savers? I saw one website mentioning it might have a 24 count hub?

[Macinnis 226]

3 hours ago, GregM said:

 

Macinnis, out of curiosity, what's the spline count on that Hitec servo hub? Is it compatible with Tamiya's kit supplied 23 and 25 count servo savers? I saw one website mentioning it might have a 24 count hub?

It must be 24. I know I had a terrible time keeping it from stripping out. Next time I have it out I'll have to check, now that I know more about the splines.  

[Jonathon Gillham 4672]

I use the same as @GregM, well s3003 or Sanwa's equivalent the S148 (from memory) and they are fine in my TT02Bs and rere Fox and Boomerang. Cheap too, about NZD$15 delivered. They have taken a lot of abuse at the hands of novice drivers who don't know about brakes.

However @WillyChang jinxed them for racing and an s3003 lasted 4mins, it would've been fine if it wasn't for his comments! So I have Savox 1258TG in 4wd (overkill I know) and the 1251MG low profile in 2wd buggy and they work great. Much more expensive though at around NZD $100 each