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Cheers rich I almost forgot to pop the circlips on the end of the pins as I had hoped to swap the hubs and knuckles so I left them off lol I will double check everything before I run it. I will probably reprogram the esc too 

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Hi all sorry i havent been about for a while. I've just been playing about with a sky rc prog box for my esc I managed to install the sky usb link on to my pc too. I had to download winRaR shareware version first then download skylink from the sky rc website in the software section then extract it with winRAR then run it in administrator mode what a pain in the ..... anyway now ive done that i can use the program on the pc to update the progbox and esc firmware and program the esc using the pc interface which is easier to use than just the prog box. Since updateing the progbox I found theres a setting for wheel size I put 80mm and gear ratio which i assume is 8.59 so i set it at 8.60 as it only goes in tens ie 8.50 8.60 ect  I hope i'm right i also put it at forward break reverse i hope thats right too it was alot easier back in the day with mecanical speed controllers lol .:huh: i also wouldnt mind knowing how i can slow down the fan i fitted on the esc it sounds like a fly trapped in a paper bag perhaps put a 1v resistor in the line or put the bec up to 7.4v i dont know im open to suggestions :) . o yer i also had to trim a tiny amount of the front of the undertray where the steering arm knocked it or came in contact with it  (both sides) .

getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img43481_9172017

 

DSC_0104_optimized.jpg

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So I haven't managed to get hold of the hop ups I ordered. :-(  and have had to re order them from a different supplier. The front c hubs and the rear knuckles. I did manage to get hold of a gpm lower front gear box but it's in Blue and I'm not sure if it even fits the top force as it's for the ta01 ta02 and but I will give it a try. I have also been looking at the team tamiya trf top force in regards to  the set up of the front shocks (as my re re high caps look a bit high and hard at the front than the evolution with stock springs  and the top force with a standard front shock tower) the shocks fitted to the trf top force . Appear to be on the outside hole on the wishbones with a black springs (I'm only going on old pictures in magazine articles)they are on here somewhere and on Google. Also I was surprised to see that Jamie booths mantray Jan 1992  basically a top force had mini  hi caps on the front with a make shift mount. All interesting stuff :-D. I will try the lower outside hole at the ball joint  out on my buggy but I have a feeling it will just make the car bow at the front anyway hopefully this lot of parts will turn up and the gpm gearbox fits 

DSC_0536_optimized.jpg

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The TA-01/2 lower front box will fit.

 

I always drool when looking at Jamie's car, lots of hand made parts

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This is the lower gearbox casing I've got,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALLOY-FRONT-ARM-BULK-S-TAMIYA-1-10-TA01-TA02-TA-01-02-LOWER-SUSPENSION-GEAR-BOX/372086042283?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Very quick delivery from that guy.

I personally think the short high-caps are better suited to the top force evolution front shock mount as it is not as tall as the standard top force mount therefore if you use the normal high caps but want the front A-arms to be level at rest they bottom out really easily and leave you with hardly any travel.

 

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Cheers rich and snappy :-) that front gear box looks the same as mine.The one I've got is a gpm TA1012?.  I agree with you on the Jaime booth car s and the team tamiya tf  I think I might put cable ties on the spring retainer on the bottom of the high caps they do come lose at times I had that problem on my egress popping it's springs :-D 

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When you built the front shocks did you make them the same length as the rear? That does look a little high at the front. I have a Terra Conqueror with the regular Top Force FRP shock mount and it sits lower than that even on the lower top hole. I have CVA shocks but had to use the short eyelet on the piston shaft end and had to add a 5mm spacer under the piston inside the front shock to make the front shock 82mm eye to eye. The rears with the same type of shock but with no internal spacers and the long eyelets are 92mm eye to eye.

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Did i jinx myself lol with the gpm part they look the same getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img43481_8320177

But as you can see there's a gap between the plastic and the metal part.  This makes a gap where the diff is held in causeing it to wobble about either I got a bum part (never happened to me before  with a gpm part) that was taken out of the cnc machine to early leaveing 1mm too much on the skid plate.  Or this is a variation between the red gearbox of the ta01 or ta02 and the top force either way I can't use this as it will funk up my front gear box if i do:( even with tight screws .

getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img43481_8320177

 

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Back to the high caps yes I bult them as the instructions but fitted them as per the evo instruction manual .The only variations to the re re top force set up are. I used dyna storm spacers (which are exactly the same dimentions as the evo spacers and dont come out as far as the two re re alu ones . The only other differences are the gold re re egress springsthat come with them  which are stiffer than the original front evo springs better in my opinion and also the suspention rings on the re re high caps the old evo used removable ones at different depths as spacers with a spring retaining ring  where as the re re high caps are maxed out at the top of the shafts at about 7mm by use of the ring with a screw 

. Its by no means a problem tho these cars have many different options for set up of the shocks the re re high caps being designed by tamiya to fit the standard top force tower and not the evo tower make me some what alone in the dark but if i choose to lower or make them softer at the front there are many different solutions avalable and it runs fine anyway :D nice even load with lots of clearence ideal for shredding the lawn. thanks thunderdragoncy  for your suggestions  i appeciate all imput and i like your terra conquerer   

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getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img43481_1132017First up the c hubs side by side they are simular but the top where the ball  joint nut goes is a little thinner this alows the front tie rod to be straighter and not at  a funny angle dab of thread lock on the thread as its metal on metal . I am also swapping out the plastic bearings with the boom raceing sealed ones these were so cheap as a set $6 or something silly .I had hoped to use the step bolts in the picture but I  ended up  useing  the stock phillips head top force ones they just seem to work better again a dab of thread lock on the tip to stop them comeing loose.

All fitted together getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img43481_1132017OPPS dont forget the c clip lol 

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The rear knuckles

side by side the look like they have about the same toe in img43481_113201773322_4_350_.jpg

I thought i'd do a comparison with the wheels on getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img43481_1132017

But I noticed the turnbuckles are not as linier with the rear universal as i had hoped so I used a couple of spacers I had left over from the high caps a couple of ball nuts and some long screws instead of the one peice ball joints.

Beforegetuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img43481_1132017

The wonky donkey

 getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img43481_1132017

The parts

getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img43481_1132017

After :)C CLIPS getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img43481_1132017

C CLIP!!!!!

 

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On 22/10/2017 at 12:45 PM, Rich_8717 said:

This is the lower gearbox casing I've got,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALLOY-FRONT-ARM-BULK-S-TAMIYA-1-10-TA01-TA02-TA-01-02-LOWER-SUSPENSION-GEAR-BOX/372086042283?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Very quick delivery from that guy.

I personally think the short high-caps are better suited to the top force evolution front shock mount as it is not as tall as the standard top force mount therefore if you use the normal high caps but want the front A-arms to be level at rest they bottom out really easily and leave you with hardly any travel.

 

Did your front gear box cover  fit ok?  Also  I think I ment mini high caps on the front   as the top  force has short all round 

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Hi Dave sorry for the late reply the gears are holding up well. considering theres no slipper on it I also haven't got the punch setting silly high on the esc that helps  I think the modifications to the gearbox covers help keep them from rattling lose and  giving too much play  if there is going to be any premature wear it will be on the diff splined cups but they seem to be holding up well with the addition of  red threadlock  I am keeping an eye on the pinion and the front one way bearing as these can wear out but all in all seems fine so far  I have learnt that the right amount of grease in the gear box  helps not to much is  the general rule :lol:

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If you want a slipper you could look into a slipper pinion, I spent months fabbing a slipper for my top force then found these - so much easier!

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Any plans to dye the wheels for even more Evolution look?

Rit dye works very well - i did some white rims using their Tangerine colour dye..

IMG_0186_zpsd722a388.jpg

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On 04/01/2018 at 8:39 PM, Ann3x said:

If you want a slipper you could look into a slipper pinion, I spent months fabbing a slipper for my top force then found these - so much easier!

What a good idea I never would have thought about a slippy pinion I' might give that one a try cheers for the info 😁

 

11 hours ago, _oliK said:

You've got yourself one good looking car!

Thanks _ olik I'm glad you like it

 

10 hours ago, Percymon said:

Any plans to dye the wheels for even more Evolution look?

Rit dye works very well - i did some white rims using their Tangerine colour dye..

 

They look cool 😎  and oem I like that colour too

I've seen bjorklo dye his black special gears in multi colours to match the mini racers.

what temperature do you do them the result looks fantastic I'd be tempted but worry about melting them 😁 does it dye deep enough so scratches don't show through as white thanks for your input. 

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12 hours ago, jackdaripper said:

Any idea what pitch the pinion is in that set and how many teeth on the pinion  Ann3x ? 

the kit one is 20t but it looks like other sizes are available or if you have access to a lathe or pillar drill, you could hollow out almost any pinion to fit I guess.

Pitch I cant find specified anywhere but I checked against a 20t 0.6M and it is identical (or near).

38637829125_b0c962be94_c.jpg

24666284007_085fd56118_c.jpg

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Many thanks for your informative reply Ann3x I'm gonna give that a shot it might be a good gear saver on the top force and will probably fit on the egress too well worth it if it saves strain on the drivetrain thanks again 😁

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