jackdaripper 85 Posted October 26, 2020 Yes it's getting on a bit lol. I keep on meaning to update with later modifications I have made to the car and hopefully will add them soon thanks for reading the build it makes the time and effort ive put into this build worthwhile I hope one day to finish it 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smokeylocc420 52 Posted November 4, 2020 What color did you use on the body? It's like a light met blue/pearl very nice. I just got a carisma myself, just need the pinion, very hard to find! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted November 4, 2020 (edited) HI smokeylocc420 its Tamiya iridescent blue green backed with black . It's sadly a discontinued limited edition colour I managed to source a can from eBay in Italy . I am going to keep that bodyshell for the shelf as i can't replace it if need be . But its not all bad news they still do iridescent purple green and iridescent pink gold . I do recommend that you back it in black but i thought id try the purple gold backed with blue and am quite pleased with the results I tried backing iridescent with silver before now but have found the colours get lost hope this helps but those Tamiya iridescent paints are well worth the money I also like fastrax metallic and iridescent but they are not as good as Tamiya but lots of paint for the money and cheaper . also you will not the improvement in mci decals in 3 years credit where credits due sorry about the pic they don't do the colours justice . Edited April 9, 2022 by jackdaripper spelling 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted November 4, 2020 Nice and sharp now :) They now include the top deck decals note the addition of the will speed alloy steering assembly 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted November 4, 2020 I m also trying to fill the photos lost from older posts that seem to have been lost due the end of tc photos? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smokeylocc420 52 Posted November 5, 2020 Jackdaripper- Thank you for more pics! Def a top notch color or colour! Are the shock tower guards exclusive to the EVO? I just ordered some rare j parts and waiting for their arrival. Trying to build another up as we speak...I used cut pieces of abs from an old Alpine head unit to make temporary j parts lol. Now I'm trying to find a steel pinion to put onto the slipper. I'll probably use aluminum since it's much softer to shave down, but it will most likely get chewed up with the quickness lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted March 21, 2022 On 11/5/2020 at 12:43 AM, Smokeylocc420 said: Jackdaripper- Thank you for more pics! Def a top notch color or colour! Are the shock tower guards exclusive to the EVO? I just ordered some rare j parts and waiting for their arrival. Trying to build another up as we speak...I used cut pieces of abs from an old Alpine head unit to make temporary j parts lol. Now I'm trying to find a steel pinion to put onto the slipper. I'll probably use aluminum since it's much softer to shave down, but it will most likely get chewed up with the quickness lol the shock tower guards are hpi forza I borrowed the idea of my df03 and now everone has them on their topforce lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 5, 2022 Hello all I cannot beleve I started this post five years ago lots of updates to the car so I will crack on I picked up a nice gold weave carbon fibre chassis set from Nick walker (you can find him on facebook and on e bay) Isn't it beautifull . I wraped the underside in 4d carbon fibre just to keep it mint avoid dulling of the gloss from surface contact of the polycarbonate undertray and scratches also decaled the top plate with the mci top force evolution set . With the re release of the topforce evo last year parts have eventually started to apear and I managed to get hold of the re re high cap parts For the evo not just for the re re topforce as I found the gold springs where a bit hard in comparison to the original evolution set and trying to get hold of the evolution spring spacer set was nearly impossible pre re release . I believe the new gray reinforced parts are borrowed from the db-01 but i may be mistaken you will need two of these part trees as they only have the parts for one side of the car on the tree and four of the black spring retainer trees (note you can buy them joined in the middle as a double or seperately as a single tree which i i found to be cheaper ? A quik look at the topforce 2021 manual will allow you assemble these correctly put together they make the topforce suspention alot more low slung and softer I may see if the spring retainers and spacers work on the gold springs tto if i choose a harder set up for another track but for now I will keep it evo . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 5, 2022 Removeing the ball connectors with a rubber glove to avoid marking the pistion 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 5, 2022 The new evo ball joints are plasic on plastic im not sure why perhaps more cost effective less slop I dont know only time will tell . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted April 5, 2022 Hi. Why not opening the airhose? Cool Power without cooling is funny 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 6, 2022 22 hours ago, Collin said: Hi. Why not opening the airhose? Cool Power without cooling is funny Where would I put the air duct decal then ? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 7, 2022 Assembled front shock . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1956 Posted April 7, 2022 23 hours ago, jackdaripper said: Where would I put the air duct decal then ? Good point! I like your rubber glove technique for holding the piston shafts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 7, 2022 11 minutes ago, Collin said: Good point! I like your rubber glove technique for holding the piston shafts. cheers colin I can remember back in the day we used a bit of old rc fuel pipe with some longe nose pliers but it would ocasionally go through the pipe and mark the shaft. the rubber glove works supriseingly well without the need for pliers I have used rubber gloves wrapped round the aluminium chassis posts when I needed to remove them after threadlocking them and they kept spining round hahaha. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 7, 2022 I have also swapped out all the ball joints as per evo. I recently upgraded? all my egrees ball joints to the alloy avante ones as a result I had the 6mm ones knocking about and thought I would put them to good use. They are different to the top force evolution ones as they have a hexiagon on the bottom and two short of the evo set but i managed to get a couple more from tonys tamiya parts from a mad bull set that had two in them . a new servo and esc and motor are to be replaced with the addition of a yeah racing prop shaft for the ta01/df03 it was 12 quid I was going to strip it so it was silver but it matched the servo and answer rc esc fan guard so i decided to keep it blue and looks alright with the chassis too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 9, 2022 I like that look of that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 9, 2022 Electrics I'm using a feetech 35kg metal cased servo I've not used this brand before i have another that is very similar made by jsx and its been really good quality the waterproofing is not to be trusted but they are well made for the money . it came with an alloy servo horn too but it was massive i found this one on ebay fo799 delivered its a servo saver too and matches the dimensions of the kit supplied one.A couple of alloy washers and some countersunk m3s all mounted on some alloy g made servo mounts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 9, 2022 The esc I am using is a barely used Novak gtb3 brushless sensored . I picked it up for 55 pound on eBay I was sad to learn that they are no longer trading. They were the cats meow back in the day I always wanted one but settled for a silver star which I think was made in Luton anyway the previous owner cut off all the connectors so an abundance of soldering was needed. Also I always wanted an alloy esc fan but I found the one I fitted was way too tall for the position chosen on the chassis so it hit the bodyshell but still using the answer rc fan guard only with a low profile hobby wing fan. I removed the Novak sticker by lifting the edge with a scalpel and put it on the replacement fan . The alloy fan was also rated 5v and sounded awful when using a 7.2 2s lipo stick pack I'm not sure if some of these esc fans need to be 12v or if they come in various voltages I know they can have very high rpm but not that noisy I would be be keen to find out I have had a few that seem to howl and other that seem a lot less strained . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 9, 2022 For the terminals I am using gold plated 4mm bullet connectors covered with heat shrink and these xt60 battery connectors which i found which comes witha cap thus removing the need for the heat shrink on those and hide the soldering too if your a bit messy and look nice too . the motor im going to put in is a turnigy track star sensored 9.5t motor brushless of course I like turnigy stuff it seems to be well made and quite durable trying to get a motor in any other colour than red theses days is like pulling hens teeth I am guessing this is because red is considered lucky Chinese culture and that is where most electronic equipment comes from now . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 9, 2022 Pre ESC with the new yeah racing prop in position All connected up with a slidelogy wire clamp new receiver too 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted April 11, 2022 There is more I am struggling attaching media at the moment I've made few revisions to the slipper pinion and obtained an additional 4 different sized pinions and have got some parts from custom rc fitted with some additions there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kontemax 1725 Posted May 17, 2022 On 10/19/2018 at 5:54 PM, jackdaripper said: Test fitted the shell and it seems to clear ok might need a little nibble out where the bar passes the shell but nothing drastic. Ok lets start with the brace . I wanted to construct something that would support the evo rear shock tower but useing the leftover parts from the kit making it an easy build and not having to make a special bracket to suit. So I came up with this. Kontemax is probably due credit here as I believe I probably got the idea from his rw mantaray brace. You will need top force threaded shaft me3 @42 mmm 3 tamiya plastic 5mm ball conectors mb8 3 tamiya 5mm ball nuts mb3 two md12 damper mounts 1x 6mm ball no thread with a plastic conector any brand will do as long as it fits over the threaded shaft but a 6mm ball works great 2x m3 screws @10mm 1x m3 screw @ 8mm All layed out this what it should look like. (it should be noted that you won't need a washer on the 8mm screw and the 6mm ball nut and connector was swapped with a 5mm ball nut and connector) as the ball nut was too high for the shaft to pass under the body mount and the plastic connector was too short for a threaded bar ( this is a work in progress) Here below are the parts for the rear t bar these are all correct but missing the 6mm plastic ball connector. Assemble like this It should end up like this Next put a ball nut and screw through the hole next to the rear wing mount (one either side) And put the assembled t bar on the ball nuts like this I couldnt believe that it is an exact fit either lol . Next put the other 4.2mm threaded shaft into the the 6mm ball conector and on the other end put a 5mm ball connector this image shows a 6mm ball connector and ball nut but im shure you get the idea (no need for the washer underneath either) Put the 8mm screw through the middle hole on the plastic brace part above the motor (you will probably need to take the motor out for this) and screw on the ball nut and snap on the connector and your done. you may need to take a small notch out of the body shell where the body sits on the bar but its much better than buying rear shock mounts all the time due to it only being fixed on two screws . it ends up sitting like this My modification made school... Max 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackdaripper 85 Posted May 18, 2022 it did indeed max still working too I havent mashed those two rear holes at all 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites