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gizard

DT-03T Aqroshot Build

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So this is my recent DT-03T Aqroshot build with a fair few hop-ups.

Parts are as follows:

 

58610 Tamiya Aqroshot DT-03 includes TBLE-02S and CVA Dampers
DT3027 GPM Front Shock tower brackets

SAV-SG-0351 Savox Standard Digital Coreless Servo
51000 Tamiya Hi-Torque Servo Saver Set

DT3024 GPM Servo Mount

DT3160ST GPM Steel Turnbuckles Steering

54572 Tamiya DT-03 Turnbuckle Set

DT3008 GPM Suspension Mount front lower
DT3055 GPM front bottom wishbone lower
DT3019 GPM Front C-Hubs
Speed Passion MMM Series 13.5R BL Motor

54628 Tamiya Steel 17T Pinion
DT3056 GPM Rear Lower Wishbone

DT3022 GPM Rear wheel Hubs

9804237 Tamiya Metal shaft gearbox outdrives

9805551 Tamiya Metal Driveshafts

9805922 Tamiya Urethane Bushing-White
50823 Tamiya Hub end cups for metal shafts
54566 Tamiya Gearbox Bridge

DT3030 GPM Rear Shock Tower
DT3028 GPM Front Shock Tower
DT3010R GPM rear hex adapter
54561 Tamiya Anti Roll Bar
9335228 Tamiya Stadium Thunder neon yellow wheels
U6503 Schumacher VEE 4 - Blue Truck Tyres
U6502 Schumacher VEE 2 Blue ruck
U6541 Schumacher  Truck 2.2 Foam Tyre Insert (Soft)

TARX3 Tamco RC 2.4GHz FHSS 3ch Receiver
Steel walled Bearings for internal areas

Rubber walled Bearings for external areas.

Load of metric socket head button machine screws to replace all self-tappers in varying sizes

Some metric nyloc nuts and washers for above

Load of shims to reduce slop in moving parts.

500k Diff oil

Tamiya Red Gel thread lock

TT-02B Rear CVA Damper Springs

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1.

1.       Joined the two parts of the chassis together and attached the GPM shock tower brackets. I was going to bolt the chassis together – however the recess in the side of the chassis is not big enough for M3 nyloc nuts to fit so I just tapped the hole instead – can’t imagine there is a huge about of force pulling it apart so it should be fine. Also I tapped holes for the shock tower bracket – I might put longer bolts in the top holes later so I can put nyloc nuts on but again I don’t think it will be required.

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2.

       Fitted the GPM servo bracket / holder around the Savox servo and attached the high torque servo saver with the Tamiya DT-03 turnbukle ends and GPM Steel turn buckles. I thought that the turnbuckles maybe too long even at there shortest but not it’s built I have realized that they are fine and allow enough toe out if required, I think I prefer these to the Tamiya ones as they are more easily adjusted.

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3.Progress being made now. Tapped the holes for the GPM lower suspension mount (orange), for the front ones I actually extend the hole right through the top of the chassis to allow for longer bolts to be fitted, again I don’t think nuts on the end will be required. Also fitted the GPM lower front arms and used shims to reduce slop a fair amount. GPM c-hubs fitted and again shimmed between c-hub and Lower arms. Also I had to shim the Steering axles on the c-hubs but to as much as I though as they flex very easily when doing up the bolt. Also fitted the Tamiya turn buckle upper arms with ball joints.

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4.       Built the diff and forced in Traxxas 500k weight diff oil (more paste in consistency, but it does pour if you have the patience!)

5.       Fitted bearings into the gearbox with small amount of Tamiya ceramic grease, I think a little goes along way – too much makes a mess.

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6.       Fitted Speed Passion 13.5t motor with Tamiya 17t steel pinion. Mounted GPM lower rear arms again shimmed to reduce slop.

7.        Added GPM rear hubs (again shimmed) along with Tamiya Steel gearbox outdrives and drive shafts connected to hub end shafts. I used half a piece of Tamiya Urethane bushing at each end of the drive shaft to reduce slop. Also, last part of the Turnbuckle kit fitted in place of the standard upper rear arms.

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8.       Attached gearbox to main chassis - again tapped the holes and used machine screws and fitted the Tamiya gearbox bridge.

9.       Fitted GPM Rear Shock tower – interestingly the rear one only has two bolts whereas the front has 4 – this seems a bit wrong in my opinion seeing as the rear is bound to take more abuse – so I also used nyloc nuts with washers on the rear. Fitted the Front shock tower too.

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10.       Built the included extra DT-03 CVA Dampers, as others have mentioned the black coating on the rear shafts seems to hinder smoothness – plus I have subsequently changed the rear springs for some spare TT-02B CVA rear springs I had spare as the supplied ones are too soft and the car droops about 50% of the travel! – probably all the bling I have fitted does not help!

11.       Fitted the shocks all round and changed the GPM supplied brass spacers for the rear shocks at each end of the shock for shorter ones I had spare as I didn’t like the amount of fore and aft movement the longer ones allow. At the front shocks, I also did similar for the top of the shocks, on the bottom end however because of the shock end fitting in-between the lower arm the brass spacer needs padding out – I currently have a bunch of shims of 5mm internal diameter padding it out – but this is not suitable enough IMO so have ordered some smaller internal diameter shims and rubber o-rings to try (the outside diameter of the brass spacer is slightly less than 4mm).

12.       Attached the body mount posts front and rear – tapped the holes again and used machine screws.

 

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13.       Fitted the front Stabilizer – noted that it seems to have little effect, but read else where someone fitted a piece of kit aerial tube on the section that is clamped in the chassis either side of the center collar – will have to try this.

14.       Fitted rear Stabilizer again noted that it appears to have little effect will have to try something similar to above. I should mention that I had to completely remove the gearbox from the Chassis in order to fit it!

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15.       I had already built the yellow Stadium Blitzer wheels with Schumacher tyres and inserts earlier, I also balanced them – as I have observed with my recent Blitzer Beetle build not only are the wheels them selves rather unbalanced but these Schumacher truck tyres have a fair amount of side ways wobble too – but much the wheels are balanced the sideways wobble appears reduced and shaking of the whole car is very much reduced under full throttle. Also Fitted TBLE-02S Speed controller and Tamco receiver.

15-DT-03T.jpg

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16.       I painted the body with Parma Faschrome Silver and backed it with faswhite then Fascoat clear.

17.       Applied Stickers as per manual but yet to paint or fit rear wing – not sure it needs it.

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Interesting choice of colours. Personally I'd fit the rear wing as I think it finishes off the rear end nicely - you don't need to paint it, just apply the chrome sticker.

 

Also, I like your inclusion of a full parts list. Very useful if someone else wants to perform similar mods to their rig. 

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49 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Interesting choice of colours. Personally I'd fit the rear wing as I think it finishes off the rear end nicely - you don't need to paint it, just apply the chrome sticker.

 

Also, I like your inclusion of a full parts list. Very useful if someone else wants to perform similar mods to their rig. 

I must confess I used ThunderDragonCy's build thread as a basis for mine - I like his use of the Grasshopper 2 shell:

 

However as I mentioned in that thread I wanted to try the Blitzer Beetle shell on the DT-03 chassis - I have balanced my Parma Bug shell on top and although the front wheels are forward of the bonnet it might look alright!

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Nice write up. Ive had my dt03t for almost 2 yrs. I did almost all the same hop ups as you except aluminum arms and i used tamiya carbon shock towers and turnbuckles.  I did try the stabilizer in the rear and i actually rolled more with the blue one on so i got rid of it. Mine flies on a castle 5700kv so i had to add weights to the front

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Just added front/rear stabilizer kit to my DT-03. Do you remember if the rear stabilizer bar had some side to side movement? Mine is moving about quite a bit - and am wondering if i have it installed wrong.

thanks!

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haha I have been meaning to investigate this, mine even with a bit of aerial tube around the middle to thicken it up still flaps about in the breeze not really doing anything...

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7 hours ago, gizard said:

haha I have been meaning to investigate this, mine even with a bit of aerial tube around the middle to thicken it up still flaps about in the breeze not really doing anything...

Yeah it seems the slot in the gearbox where the rear stabilizer sits needs some sort of screw to tighten it in place - or maybe that is how it is supposed to be installed just sitting there. Just seems odd that it bounces around about 8mm back and forth!

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1 hour ago, novicelad said:

Makes me want to convert my Neo Fighter to one looks very cool 

That it does - of all the DT-03 versions, I think the Aqroshot is the best looking.

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4 hours ago, jomotion said:

Yeah it seems the slot in the gearbox where the rear stabilizer sits needs some sort of screw to tighten it in place - or maybe that is how it is supposed to be installed just sitting there. Just seems odd that it bounces around about 8mm back and forth!

I wrapped a bit of parcel tape around mine which seemed to stop it rattling. I don't run the rear anymore though, just the front to maximise rear grip on loose surfaces. 

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47 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

I wrapped a bit of parcel tape around mine which seemed to stop it rattling. I don't run the rear anymore though, just the front to maximise rear grip on loose surfaces. 

On the front do you use the red or the blue

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3 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

I wrapped a bit of parcel tape around mine which seemed to stop it rattling. I don't run the rear anymore though, just the front to maximise rear grip on loose surfaces. 

I agree, I had the blue on both front and rear. I felt the truck drove much worse, took them both off. I will try the red upfront this week

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