modifying CC-01 (chassis lowering kit) dampers' height?

[novaris 2]

I bought the CC01 black pajero kit that includes the chassis lowering kit and assembled as per the manual. So it has a lower damper length (6.1mm according to the manual) because of a flanged spacer in the dampers.

At the same time, I changed the stock 4 links to a junfac/gmade kit and that meant changing the original damper ball end to junfac's ball end which is 5mm shorter than the original.

as a result, the lower links hit the bottom of the chassis before the rear dampers bottom out.

So I have a few options, 1 remove the spacer, 2. change dampers. Any suggestions?

 

rcmojos' solution is to add a lift block but i am not keen on that path.

Does anyone know the length/ of the original (lowered) dampers?

[TWINSET 1793]

The spacer inside the shock - is that on the piston shaft or floating in the oil above it?

If it's on the piston shaft, removing it won't stop the links hitting the chassis as it's there to stop the shocks from extending too far, not limiting their compression.

 

If you want to stop the links hitting the chassis you either have to limit the shock compression (spacer on shaft outside of the shock) or look at how GMade's link mounts differ in fixing, size etc. to Tamiya's and change that.

Ultimately, your suspension compression won't change (because the links hitting the chassis is what's stopping it), so you may as well put bump stops on the shock pistons, on the outside of the shock body - I used to use small lengths of nitro-fuel tube but a couple of black o-rings will work just as well

 

[novaris 2]

On 7/27/2017 at 9:07 PM, TWINSET said:

The spacer inside the shock - is that on the piston shaft or floating in the oil above it?

If it's on the piston shaft, removing it won't stop the links hitting the chassis as it's there to stop the shocks from extending too far, not limiting their compression.

 

If you want to stop the links hitting the chassis you either have to limit the shock compression (spacer on shaft outside of the shock) or look at how GMade's link mounts differ in fixing, size etc. to Tamiya's and change that.

Ultimately, your suspension compression won't change (because the links hitting the chassis is what's stopping it), so you may as well put bump stops on the shock pistons, on the outside of the shock body - I used to use small lengths of nitro-fuel tube but a couple of black o-rings will work just as well

 

Ok I get what you mean now.  Sorry I made some mistakes in my original description.

 

The lower links are the ones hitting the chassis. not the upper links.

 

 

 

It is on the shaft inside the damper. The spacers between the skid plate and the lower links is causing the ride height to be much lower, about 6mm lower or so.

 

 

Edited July 30, 2017 by novaris
duplicate picture

[novaris 2]

8.3cm

 

 

8.9cm

[TWINSET 1793]

The lowering kit and the Gmade kit are really designed to do opposite things

If you take the spacers out of the shocks, there'll be a few mm of shock travel before the lower links hit the chassis but that stops it being a low ride kit then.
Try building the kit as stock (with Tamiya's rear suspension links) and see what travel you get - the rear arms are quite thin on the stock setup, so your shocks might bottom out before the links do

 

Gmade's kit, according to their site; "Designed for extreme offroad or rock crawling conditions"

 

[novaris 2]

10 hours ago, TWINSET said:

The lowering kit and the Gmade kit are really designed to do opposite things

If you take the spacers out of the shocks, there'll be a few mm of shock travel before the lower links hit the chassis but that stops it being a low ride kit then.
Try building the kit as stock (with Tamiya's rear suspension links) and see what travel you get - the rear arms are quite thin on the stock setup, so your shocks might bottom out before the links do

 

Gmade's kit, according to their site; "Designed for extreme offroad or rock crawling conditions"

 

I didn't get the cc01 then get the chassis lowering kit. it basically came together.

it's become an "lower riding kit"

 

maybe I should change the position of the spacer on the skid plate and/or remove spacer in dampers

[TWINSET 1793]

What do you want to achieve?

If you want a low-rider then just ditch the Gmade kit, it wasn't designed to be used with the low ride setup

If you want more suspension travel but a higher ride height then take the spacers out of the shocks and build the shocks as per a CC-01 without a low ride kit (you'll find manuals at tamiyausa.com and they'll have all the relevant part numbers in)

[novaris 2]

7 hours ago, TWINSET said:

What do you want to achieve?

If you want a low-rider then just ditch the Gmade kit, it wasn't designed to be used with the low ride setup

If you want more suspension travel but a higher ride height then take the spacers out of the shocks and build the shocks as per a CC-01 without a low ride kit (you'll find manuals at tamiyausa.com and they'll have all the relevant part numbers in)

I got the junfac kit because I watched some guides and youtube videos and it seems it addresses some issues like slop etc, so I thought i used it.

I do want a low-rider, I already have a scx10 II

 

 

Took a 2nd look at the links. It appears the junfac upper links are shorter and lower links about the same or longer than stock ones

 

[Supercoolnothing 721]

http://www.rcmart.com/aluminum-rear-lower-tamiya-cc01-silver-p-64064.html?cPath=595_744_1426 

http://www.rcmart.com/aluminum-rear-upper-tamiya-cc01-silver-p-64063.html?cPath=595_744_1426

These should do the trick instead of the junfac kit and they look really cool into the bargain. 

[TurnipJF 9192]

The JunFac kit uses a thick spacer between the ball and the skid plate, right? How about getting two thinner spacers that together equal the thickness of the big one, and putting one on the bolt, then the ball, then the other spacer? This would move the ball further from the tub so the link shouldn't hit it, but it should otherwise preserve the suspension geometry. (You would of course get a tiny amount of axle twist due to the upper and lower links no longer being exactly parallel, but with the relatively small travel on a lowrider, I don't see this causing any issues.)