Clodbuster advice

[Peter_B 997]

So, I now own a really nice condition Super Clodbuster.

It's already got bearings fitted. I'm not sure what the steering servo is as I've not had chance (or figured out how) to get into it to check.

The steering needs a bit of tweaking. It crabs a bit and is really twitchy.

I'm planning on keeping it pretty much stock for now so with that in mind. Are there any basic tweaks or mods that should be done?

[Prescient 671]

Has it got the servo horn steering mod which uses one of the star horns and the opposing edge hole mounting positions to increase leverage? Best and simplest steering mod you can do (see pic).

If it has a low (sub 4kg torque) servo then swapping with a Hobbyking own brand servo even with shipping from UK warehouse is a fraction of the price of other brand equivalents https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-high-torque-servo-mg-bb-w-proof-12-8kg-0-22sec-58g.html

Next mod is the Hobbywing Quicrun Dual Motor 860 ESC (£25) as this performs better than the MSC or stock Tamiya dual motor ESCs. You can then always run a 3s lipo on the dual silvercan motors which will make it as fast as the chassis can handle. 

If you go for other tuned motors then they need to be zero timed or reversible timing and you will end up spending a whole lot of money for the same performance as 3s on Silvercan 

The Tamiya Superstock TZ/BZ motors are a really good upgrade if using NiMH since they have great torque. You can cut the end bell timing lock tab on one to reverse the timing. Performance is roughly the same as 3s on Silvercan. 

Oil filled dampers help and the easiest and most cost effective swap out for high quality shocks are for the Traxxas Big Bore XX Length Shocks. 

Once you do more to the chassis it loses its Clod charm.

[MadInventor 3884]

The above thread describes a steering mod I designed. Not only will it improve the steering but also gives you the option of increasing the suspension travel as you can remove the steering rods that run above the gearboxes. I haven't done much more to it than that, other than putting a set of Tamiya vintage CVA long shocks on it, and binning the power economy switch in favour of a direct wiring solution. I can't remember for sure, but I think it has TXT-1 stub axles and wheels fitted, to increase the width between the wheels slightly (this also improves the stability of the truck). @Prescient s advice on going 3S LiPo is also good. This will make it go as fast as you need, as cheaply as possible. The only other thing I can think are to replace the aluminium pinions with a couple rw racing steel pinions (32dp, 13teeth).

 

 

 

[Buggyjam 144]

I'm biased but I think even with lots of mods it's still incredibly charming and I've fiddled quite a lot with the chassis (I lowered it!)  :-). It still bounces around and makes that lovely rumble, but with a few tweaks it'll actually steer (it's the only one I can even drive around my front room), not tip over and go faster. Depends on what you want and spend. Suggestions above are perfect I think. 

 

These mods hardly change the appearance:-

First for me would be lose the woeful 8 pogo sticks. It's still perfectly cloddy with oil shocks and if you can live with not having 8 ( I preferred the look of 4 anyway) actually works better on 4. In stock form there's hardly any sprung weight. It's all on the axles and those gorgeous tyres.

As mentioned the next step would be a better dual esc and single lipo.

 

Going beyond the basics:-

Next step up id say is if you're feeling a little spend coming on you could ditch the rubbish stock steering and go servo-on-axle using one of the conversion kits or a DIY job. That's a game changer but truck works without it, just steers poorly. You really notice it when you do it.

Even more of a step up is dual escs and batteries running onto the silver cans. Has a nice turn of speed without being too much. 

I did personally want to change the appearance so I lowered the chassis by allowing the trans to ride inside, braced it all up, dropped in some lower oil shocks and it still has very clod character, just more capable imo and more to my taste. But one mans poison and all that... enjoy yours, a cracking truck!

[Peter_B 997]

@Prescient I still have no idea what servo is in there but I did manage to have a peek, through the gaps in the chassis, and can see that it does have the straight bar version of the servo horn you posted fitted. I think both front and rear linkages are connected to the outermost holes. I started thinking about moving the rear link inboard a hole or two, to reduce the rear steer effect a bit and hopefully make it less twitchy.

When I figure out how to get at the servo (not even looked at the manual yet) I'll take a look and see what is in there. I also want to check the lengths of all of the links and see if any of those might be slightly out of spec and causing the bit of crabbing I saw last night.

@MadInventor I had seen your thread before as I'm totally in awe of some of the stuff you build. Unfortunately I don't have the skills or equipment to be able to make something like that myself.

@Buggyjam I've seen your lovely lowered Clod.

I don't have any lipos yet so will be just running NiMH for the time being. With that in mind does the Quicrun 860 make a big difference to the Tamiya TEU-106BK?

Does anybody have any links for the twin steering servo conversions?

I did start wondering earlier if it was possible to mount 2 low profile servos back-to-back in the place where the single servo goes. But as I said I haven't seen that part of the chassis yet so don't know if there would be enough room, or exactly where the links would need to run.

Here's a few pics of the beastie...

You can see it's very clean and tidy.

Can tell how little I know about Clods so far - it took me about 2 minutes before I figured out how to put a battery in!

[Prescient 671]

@Peter_B as you already have the TEU-106BK fitted and only running NiMH there is no need to change immediately. 

If wanting to run Lipo and/or more powerful motors the HW Quicrun 860 will do all of that. Modelsport are a good supplier. You can usually get £20+ for a used 106BK on ebay so it's almost a swap.

The cheapest way to get increased performance out of the Clod a 3s Lipo on Silvercans and it transforms the fun factor. Any quicker and it's on the edge of the chassis, even with oil dampers.

The servo horn position shouldn't cause the twitching, but bringing it in closer will reduce steering performance and turning circle though. It could be the wrong spec servo for the application.

[Peter_B 997]

@Prescient it could well be the wrong servo, I'll take it apart and look later.

When I said twitchy, I didn't mean the Clod was twitching, it's just very nervous a small touch of the steering results in way more steering action than I'd expect. I though that by reducing the amount the rear wheels steer it might reduce some of that nervousness. I don't think the ratio of front to rear steering on full size monster trucks is 1:1 (probably wrong though).

It could just be because it's a Clod and I've not driven one before so don't know how they should drive.

Just owning one is fun though. I'm looking forward to my next go

Incidentally, to get at the servo - do I take off that top plate that holds the ESC and RX? Or can I get to it by other means?

 

[Prescient 671]

Have you got a manual?

You can download one from here https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-kits-30/trucks-36500/rc-super-clod-buster-58518 

The steering should be a smooth action but it can be quite sharp as the truck should be able to turn on its self with the servo horn mod. 

 

[Buggyjam 144]

Twin servo on axle kit. You also need two servos and a Y lead.  I've used them quite a bit. Be aware some people have had reported on Clodtalk they're having issues with waiting on delivery and communication from Crawford recently so def email them first before laying down money. 

For dual steer you'd need 2 of these:-

http://crawfordperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=460

 

and either make the links or 2 of these:-

 

http://crawfordperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?cPath=9_29&products_id=84

 

alternatively thunder tech

 

http://www.thundertechracing.com/bumper.htm

[Peter_B 997]

21 minutes ago, Prescient said:

Have you got a manual?

You can download one from here https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-kits-30/trucks-36500/rc-super-clod-buster-58518 

The steering should be a smooth action but it can be quite sharp as the truck should be able to turn on its self with the servo horn mod. 

 

Yes I've got a manual, even got the kit box and all left over sprues and screws, I've just not had a chance to look in it yet.

[Peter_B 997]

20 minutes ago, Buggyjam said:

Twin servo on axle kit. You also need two servos and a Y lead.  I've used them quite a bit. Be aware some people have had reported on Clodtalk they're having issues with waiting on delivery and communication from Crawford recently so def email them first before laying down money. 

For dual steer you'd need 2 of these:-

http://crawfordperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=460

 

and either make the links or 2 of these:-

 

http://crawfordperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?cPath=9_29&products_id=84

 

alternatively thunder tech

 

http://www.thundertechracing.com/bumper.htm

Wow those costs start adding up!

I quite like the thunder tech one but it says it's not available.

I think I'll get it sorted and get used to it stock first before I spend any more pennies.

[Buggyjam 144]

18 minutes ago, Peter_B said:

Wow those costs start adding up!

I quite like the thunder tech one but it says it's not available.

I think I'll get it sorted and get used to it stock first before I spend any more pennies.

It really does, especially when you have to double everything on a clod. Best way is if you can make links yourself and cut the mount plates yourself. You could do it for materials cost then plus the servos and rod ends. 

 

Just spotted the thunder tech one is discontinued apologies for that. They're prob releasing another design. Same happened when I ordered the trans mounted 4 link mount. Was discontinued so emailed him and he said a new one was coming and he'd send me the new one which was improved. 

[Peter_B 997]

@Buggyjam I'd also need to add on costs of tools etc as I don't have any other than the basics.

[Prescient 671]

3 hours ago, Peter_B said:

@Buggyjam I'd also need to add on costs of tools etc as I don't have any other than the basics.

You don't need to mod the steering though to this extent.

With the correct servo and horn mod it works as well as the turning circle of the truck allows. Its only really a clear benefit to have on axle steering if you are properly rock crawling not just bashing where you need the precise turn at very low speeds on difficult terrain. 

Having the servos on the axel in my opinion looks a tad unsightly compared to the standard set up and it loses some scale looks.

The Clod is great to mod and I have absolutely nothing against people that mod them but the costs really do quickly add up. 

The Clod has found itself in an interesting position lately. Built up out of the box it is pretty disappointing compared to modern trucks.

There are a lot of out the box competitors to the Clod crawler conversation chassis now which work out considerably cheaper. I notice Crawford seemed to have slowed down on mods and discontinued quite a few.

There are more modern monster trucks like the TXT-1 and TXT-2 which can be purchased in built and virtually unused condition for £150-£250 depending on the eBay auction. 

There are much larger and faster monster trucks all of which have brushless and come ready to run cheaper than a Clod does after buying key performance mods and radio gear (860 ESC, Lipo, Oil Dampers). The Clod can do 15mph comfortably (3s Lipo with Silvercans), beyond that speed the chassis doesn't like it. The competitors start at 25-40mph+ and are better at everything except looking and performing like a Clod with its vintage nostalgia. 

This in my opinion (and I appreciate many won't share this opinion) leaves the Clod best placed in its original format with minimal mods for max benefit and least ££ outlay. Once you start spending ££ you may as well put it towards a different truck. 

[Buggyjam 144]

Yes as I did emphasise in my first post the steering mod is not necessary, it's more luxury. 

 

I personally feel if you spend xxx on a clod is personal taste and not as easy as say spending it on another truck beyond X. It depends what you want. I knew what I wanted and another truck wouldn't have ticked the box. I run mine as fast as I'm comfortable with and it's not fast but it licks along and the chassis is absolutely fine. It'll do jumps but it's absolutely no traxxas at all, but I didn't want a traxxas :-). I have t found other trucks I really like yet so happy with it. For anything very fast you want metal race chassis which costs a lot, then you're onto the realms of building it yourself. I personally am quite attracted to this bespoke building rather than out of the box so I may venture into it but it's eyes open.  

 

Unless you really have a specific project in mind , knowing the limitations (without going full mod clod) and aren't expecting a traxxas indestructible rubber ball, then it is best to stick to minimal spend.

[Peter_B 997]

I've now had a chance to take the radio tray off and look at the servo.

It seems to be one of these - https://hobbyking.com/en_us/towerpro-mg996r-10kg-servo-10kg-0-20sec-55g.html

But it's missing the TowerPro text in the label so could well be a knock off with dubious spec.

So I'll have a look for a replacement servo. I guess plenty of torque is needed to shift those big wheels around with all the weight on them?

Now for the stupid question - how do you do any work on the servo? I had the radio tray off and removed the screws holding the servo from underneath but the steering linkage stopped me moving the servo very far at all.

And I couldn't get enough leverage to pop the links off.

[Prescient 671]

Axles off, chassis plates off job for easiest access sadly.

Servo I linked to in my first post is ideal.

@Buggyjam I love your Clod btw. 

[Peter_B 997]

20 minutes ago, Prescient said:

Axles off, chassis plates off job for easiest access sadly.

Servo I linked to in my first post is ideal.

@Buggyjam I love your Clod btw. 

That's a pain. Don't want to be doing that too often.

[Buggyjam 144]

1 hour ago, Prescient said:

Axles off, chassis plates off job for easiest access sadly.

Servo I linked to in my first post is ideal.

@Buggyjam I love your Clod btw. 

Thanks mate, speaking of other trucks, is the txt2 worth a look? I've read about it and it sure looks pretty interesting but wasn't sure what its like. Is it the txt1 that had the issue where they had to release a sort of add on kit to fix the problems or is that txt2?

[Prescient 671]

1 hour ago, Buggyjam said:

Thanks mate, speaking of other trucks, is the txt2 worth a look? I've read about it and it sure looks pretty interesting but wasn't sure what its like. Is it the txt1 that had the issue where they had to release a sort of add on kit to fix the problems or is that txt2?

The TXT-2 is awesome. A tad heavy but it's scale monster truck perfection in a box. It's not that quick athough it will happily run a single brushless or dual silvercan on 3s. 

The torque flex is eliminated from the TXT-1.

The shell's grill can be cut out and wheel arches can be cut much much higher to match Bigfoot 18 which it seems to be based off (even down to side plates, sponsor decals and if you buy it the hop up piggyback suspension). Cut like that it looks 10x better. Measured up its only really 1:11.4 scale as well which also makes the tyres it comes with technically the correct size diameter but the rims are too large.

You can put clod tyres on using txt-1 rims but these look out of place due to the more modern cut of monster truck tyres appearing narrower. It's still the same 66" Firestone tyre but they now cut more off the tread sides so they appear much narrower.

Compare pics of the tyres on Taurus (one of the real world Chevy Monster Truck Clod inspirations using the chunky goodyear) to an early Bigfoot and BF18 using Firestones. Last photo is one of my TXT-2 in progress. You can cut/sand Clod tyres to match, it's messy though.

@Peter_B sorry for the slight thread hijack although hopefully you will enjoy the Clod inspiration.

 

[TheMidnight Pumpkin 260]

You have to forgive me as I didn't read every post on this topic. But my advise is based on if you keep the stock chassis. The steering mods are great. Replacing the shocks, and motors are great. But some of the later Clods had a metal chassis brace, where as the older ones didn't. It mounts inside the center of the chassis to brace the suspension arm pivots. Any real amount of jumping and the stock chassis will crack at those pivots without the chassis brace.

Then obviously the aftermarket has their own solutions. Imex has an assortment of insane mods for Clods. These are REAL OLD picture's of my Bullhead which has an assortment of homemade, ESP, and Imex parts on it. In fact the tires on it now are nearly twice that size.

[Peter_B 997]

When I was investigating what servo is fitted, I did notice there was a metal plate beneath the servo, inside the tub.

Is that the brace you are talking about?

[Prescient 671]

@Peter_B the three plates should be fitted to all super clods so you will have it (step 4 in the manual).

[Peter_B 997]

Ah right. So I'm good there then.

[Buggyjam 144]

23 hours ago, Prescient said:

The TXT-2 is awesome. A tad heavy but it's scale monster truck perfection in a box. It's not that quick athough it will happily run a single brushless or dual silvercan on 3s. 

The torque flex is eliminated from the TXT-1.

The shell's grill can be cut out and wheel arches can be cut much much higher to match Bigfoot 18 which it seems to be based off (even down to side plates, sponsor decals and if you buy it the hop up piggyback suspension). Cut like that it looks 10x better. Measured up its only really 1:11.4 scale as well which also makes the tyres it comes with technically the correct size diameter but the rims are too large.

You can put clod tyres on using txt-1 rims but these look out of place due to the more modern cut of monster truck tyres appearing narrower. It's still the same 66" Firestone tyre but they now cut more off the tread sides so they appear much narrower.

Compare pics of the tyres on Taurus (one of the real world Chevy Monster Truck Clod inspirations using the chunky goodyear) to an early Bigfoot and BF18 using Firestones. Last photo is one of my TXT-2 in progress. You can cut/sand Clod tyres to match, it's messy though.

@Peter_B sorry for the slight thread hijack although hopefully you will enjoy the Clod inspiration.

 

That chassis looks real attractive.  I might have to look into a txt2! I remember watching a Doc on YouTube and it went into tyre cutting on monsters quite in depth. How's the chassis perform on them and potential for fiddling about with running gear, shocks etc etc? Do they take it well?

You mentioned other trucks that are available these days that are more capable than clod at higher speeds. Any modern solid axle ones worth mentioning?  Reason I ask is I'm always looking for new ideas. I've seen some reference to axial, but I think it's a modded crawler and axles people are using rather than a stock monster base . I'm currently starting right at the beginning of a more classic mod clod. It's to be race 4 linked,  lower cg, Crawford chassis I had in storage. Work in progress, it's just parts I've accrued over a year in a box at the min, with a few pencil sketches of setups. It's not using a kit, just a couple of axles and wheels as a base. A slow burner. Moving house hasn't helped.