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SuperChamp82

Airbrush vs Can

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Thanks @Nitomor and @d4dawg

What compressors do you guys run ?

Ive ordered a new TH and planned to run it on Iwatas Smart Jet Pro.

Trouble is the brush's spec says it needs 35+ litres airflow for the fan nozzle which seems to force a much more expensive Power Jet Plus ?

Sorry if it's a dumb question but can I still use the Smart Jet Pro and sacrifice pattern width by moving closer when using the fan ?

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I'm using the below and it is awesome but then it should be as it's dearer than the Power jet plus although it has been nicely reduced here;

https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_403_2_41&products_id=20847 I scored mine in a black Friday sale from the same place but I think it was about the same amount as the current sale price.

It's very quiet, has storage space, easy to hide away etc. Very neat to have in the home as it is all self contained. I would advise against buying one that can't support the brush which you're buying (Congrats on the TH by the way, I hope you're happy with it and please report back how you get on once you've got into it :) ). The Maxx Jet can support the larger G5 also, pity it can only just support the larger LPH50 and RG3 guns at low pressure only so it has its limits but was perfect for my setup. At 1.4cfm it is no more powerful than the Power jet plus spec comparisons here https://airbrushes.com/iwata_compressors.php#comparison but it does have a much larger tank size of 2.5 litres vs 480cc and it has 2 outlets and significantly quieter. With the 2.5L tank, quite often the compressor isn't running at all which is nice as you can spray virtually silently, then it kicks in and it's not that loud and tops up quickly. The smaller tank will have the compressor run much more of the time.

I'm sorry I seem to keep leading you to the dear end of the spectrum, I can only comment on the gear I use and I've been delighted with it all, I don't mind paying the money as long as I am happy with the purchase even if it takes longer to save! I'm quite particular, I appreciate you could probably buy other products or brands for less money, I'll let others guide you on that as my experience is limited to the research I did and the products I bought and use. From a user rating though, it's 5 star all the way as you'd expect from the brand and at the price point. I'd rather buy the best I can afford and buy once.

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I use the California Air Tools "Ultra Quiet" Air Compressor with the 5.5 Gallon tank, purchased from Amazon. It's big, ugly and loud (compared to the units made specifically for airbrushing), but does the job. I like the larger tank so I can also use it to blow off dusts.

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I use one of these.

Small, quiet, has a tank to even out airflow (and keeps the motor off 90% of the time) and 2 outputs is useful if you need multiple tip sizes to hand.

It goes up to around 45/50psi fine, but im generally spraying at 25 anyway.

It's really good for hobby use.

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Thanks guys - I had to be content with Iwata's Power Jet Plus.

The Maxx Jet is superb @Nitomor but I'd already added an RG3 gun to my shopping list and just couldn't stretch that far. I'd also get divorced if my 'study' makes any more noise @d4dawg !

Everything arrives tomorrow so lessons start after lunch :) 

Please could everyone help with a couple more newbie questions ?

What ratios do you mix different types of paint in and what pressures do you spray them at ?

I'm going to stick to Tamiya PS, TS and X series paints for now but am not sure what level of thinning gets the best results after decanting and de-gassing from any cans ?

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What size needle do you have on the brush?

Degassing from cans is a super expensive way to paint btw, a bottle of fascolor / wicked colors / Pactra lasts for ever (5-8 shells per bottle I'd guess), costs £5 (and has no nasty solvents - important if you are inside).

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Thanks @Ann3x.

The TH will have a 0.5mm needle and the RG3 a 0.6. @Nitomor's sales pitch is way better than I could do describing their handling - see above !

Apologies again if it's a stupid question but how do I colour match precisely if I don't buy Tamiya ?

I'm doing this mainly to scratch an itch about building 80s vintage kits with my kids - so the goal is box art, both in colour and finish !

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Interesting question on colour matching. Tbh it's the one pita bit of using waterbased. 

I just use a mixing pot, add basic colours until I'm close to box art (by checking on Google mostly), test spraying on scrap lean as I go. That does require some basic "library" of paint tho I guess which is an expense factor. 

I actually painted a hilux monster racer that way recently which worked really well, only challenge was matching the red. 

The wonderful thing about waterbased though is if you make a mistake 10m in the sink solves all problems (as long as you get on it pretty quick before it cures). 

0.5 is a fairly big needle and PS paint is quite thin so I guess you'll be needing a pretty low pressure. It's not a combo I use but probably start at 20psi (or even below), tbh the needle might be a bit big for PS.... I'd do some test spraying. 

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Congrats on your purchases. Opening them will be an exciting time!!

The beauty of your new setup is that it opens the door to using a much wider choice of paints. I wouldn't decant Tamiya paints from cans, messy business. 

I find for regular non metallic/pearl/spark colours, ie to match a lot of Tamiya's standard colours, the Auto Air 'Wicked' range of colours are perfect (I painted my monster racer with this red and it matched the decals perfectly);

http://createxcolors.com/wicked-airbrush-colors/wicked-colors/w001.html

What shells/models will you be painting? From the above link you can see all the other Auto Air colours. They generally need thinning, I use Auto air's 4012 reducer. You're aiming for the consistency of skimmed milk, it's important that you get this right, all paints are different so not set measure but you'll get a feel for how it should be. The thinner the paint the lower the pressure to an extent. I have found that I'm spraying around the 20psi mark + or - 5psi depending on temp and paint viscosity. 

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Thanks @Ann3x - what needle size would you use for PS and TS paint ? And what pressure would you use / thinned or batch ?

I'm really excited at the prospect of mixing my own paint but want to walk before I run. The viscosity alone feels a bit intimidating atm - let alone colour matching !

Cheers @Nitomor - great advice as ever :) 

I've spent 9 months learning (+ occasionally improving !) with every re re or more recent vintage built or restored. A box art Blackfoot Xtreme - with Fall Guy and Back To The Future running bodies - that's currently on EBay is my best so far.

Recent sales have let me invest in 4 re res - a Bruiser, Sand Scorcher, Masami Cat XLS and Kyosho Optima - plus 2 originals - a Super Champ and Rough Rider.

The re res and Rough Rider are NIB, the SC is a prestine build (with original box art body + box / manual etc) but I'll source a separate original shell to run it occasionally on dry days with my kids. 

I've already bought TS spray paint for the Bruiser and SS so tips on decanting would be appreciated even if I need to learn to blend my own colours down the line ?

Very open to suggestions creating box art for the rest but please be gentle with my current lack of talent !

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For PS I'd think 0.3—0.35 but it'd be good to check with someone who has actually sprayed it as that's just a guess from using the rattle cans in the past (never used it with an airbrush myself). 

Mixing paint is really quite easy, just experiment a bit. With water based not too much that can go wrong. 

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On 18/08/2017 at 10:41 AM, Nitomor said:

I'm using Createx 'Auto Air' and 'Wicked' range of paints. http://www.createxcolors.com/ 

They're great on lexan because they are flexible so don't come off in impacts etc. It has been really durable on my Hornet basher. I spray some clear coat over the paint on the underside of the shell just to give some more protection to the paint against water, stones etc.

Auto Air Sparkelescent paints

 image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image

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Auto Air Wicked paints

image.jpeg

IMG-1289.JPG

Finally, Alclad paints come out amazingly on Lexan for chrome/metal parts... http://www.alclad2-online.co.uk/ 

IMG_1318.JPG

What clear coat do you protect the paint with?

I've just ordered my first airbrush setup and a set of Createx Wicked basic colour paints.

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I spray tamiya flat clear PS on after a day or so of curing for the water based. 

Any clear polycarbonate paint will be fine though. 

You can get water based clear coat (eg Faskoat) but I dunno, I just don't trust it for the negligible effort it saves. 

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12 minutes ago, Ann3x said:

I spray tamiya flat clear PS on after a day or so of curing for the water based. 

Any clear polycarbonate paint will be fine though. 

You can get water based clear coat (eg Faskoat) but I dunno, I just don't trust it for the negligible effort it saves. 

So, if I wanted to back the other colours on the shell with black, I could use Tamiya PS black instead of a clear?

For example, paint the main colours with the Created paints, then instead of backing with Created black, leave it a day or so then use a Tamiya PS rattle can to back it all.

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HI Peter,

I use Churchills 1k clear coat. I get it from ebay. I knock it up with a 20% mix of cellulose thinners. So 80% clear to 20% thinners.

Clear coat

http://www.churchill-paints.co.uk/churchill-paints/clearcoats/1k-rfu-clear-lacquer 

Cellulose Thinners

http://www.churchill-paints.co.uk/churchill-paints/thinners-and-solvents/standard-cellulose-thinner

There may be a better way, this is just what I use as I need to clear on the outside of the shell with hard bodies and then use the same stuff on the inside. I've had no reactions using this, i put it over the black or white createx sealer that I back the paint with on a lexan shell and it has been really durable, even on my basher Hornet which has had some smashes!

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Createx sealer?

I'd that an actual product or just your term for the backing coat.

Should have mentioned that I'm just going to be working on lexan for now.

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Createx sealer yes. I have black and white. You can use it for both hard and lexan. In fact, if I recall correctly my Hornet was actually painted in the black sealer!

 

gallery_28308_3741_287763.jpg

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I got my airbrush kit last week, opened the box last night and discovered the instructions are a bit lacking.

Not totally surprised as it didn't cost a massive amount, but I just wanted something to be starting with.

I've got all sorts of bits and bobs and no idea what many of them are for.

Can anyone direct me to somewhere that explains how it should all go together?

This is the kit I've got https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01I2ZUKYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bzA7zb8NKDDSR

 

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Well the easiest set up you can have in that bundle is to link the compressor outlet using the coloured braided hose to the black plastic handled airbrush (or possibly the black hose in the airbrush box if the fittings are different sizes).

That airbrush has simple adjustment of liquid flow using the brass coloured cone on the underside of the tip - turning the brass cone basically lowers or increases the height of the cone on a fixed needle inside the cone, creating a variable gap for paint to flow through.  The rate of paint application and distribution is controlled by the brass cone setting and the air pressure set at the regulator on the compressor - this airbush basically works on a  simple venturi principle.   This airbrush is OK for painting larger areas or complete bodies, but will be of no use for intricate detail work - it's basically replicating an aerosol can but with a few control options.

The other airbrush is more complex, and looks to be a dual control button airbrush (I'm no expert here, but it might give you some for further googling).  The button on top of the airbush body has dual function - pressing down allows airflow and the the fore/aft motion on the button control paint flow.

The set-up looks similar to one i bought 5 years ago; my findings..

> the compressor is OK, but the air tank is nowhere near big enough for repeated spraying of larger areas - great for small areas, finer intricate detail but runs out of capacity after 20 seconds of full flow.

> the dual action airbrush needs an awful lot of practice, something i never had time to attempt to master

> the airbushes are fairly cheap Chinese items, OK but not a match for a reasonable priced Paasche unit - you get what you pay for !  If you really intend to try to master a dual action airbrush then probably better to buy a decent one, than try to make good on a budget item.

> you'll find you spend lots of time cleaning them and setting them up - thats fine if you get some real benefit from your time investment.

 

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