Sand Scorcher build. (Long time coming.)

[Shodog 1835]

If you plan to run it much, get an aluminum chassis. The stock one flexes too much between body attachment points and you'll eventually break your body

[Monouchi 19]

Yes, I noticed the flex.
I use the lexan body for racing so i think Im still good. Thanks for the tip though.

First I need to move that steering servo.

[Monouchi 19]

Ok, steering really had to change.

I have the Tamiya tsu-03 servo.

I cut off the mounts on the servo, drilled a 1cm diameter hole in the middle of the front box. Put double adhesive tape on the servo and put it against one side of the box, now the servo got centered in the car, I was about 1-2mm off but thats ok.

Then I took a servo saver from the Kyosho car crushers, used the scorchers rods and ball-joints, reversed the ball-joints on the wheels steering arms and removed the scorchers original servo saver entirely.

 

What a difference. I get max steering with about 1mm left before the tires hits the chassis.

And no sign of over steering so I lock the servo up.

Now it can turn.

 

[Monouchi 19]

I need to make my Scorcher run fast with good steering....cos this is whats hunting me:

My two sons Kyosho Car crushers, full ball bearing and thorp equipped with Tamiya GT Tuned motors. :/

[Shodog 1835]

Having the tie rods come off that high from the servo will give you crazy bump steer.  Getting them lower to the plate like how they are stock will alleviate most of the bump steer. 

[Monouchi 19]

Yep, some serious bump steer.

I saw this mod when searching for Scorcher steering mods, so I did a quick test.
The bump steer needs to be adressed so I plan to rotate the saver 180 and put the servo higher as to not hit the chassis plate.

[Monouchi 19]

Ok, time to "kill your darlings" as they say.
The radio box had to go, so I removed it and created a lid for the box that bolts right on just like the radio box did.
I put the servo directly on the chassis with mounting tape and put the servo cable through the whole where the original long steering rod used to be. I also added a rubber seal.

No bump steering at all and it has maximum steering length with saver, the important electronic parts are still sealed in the box. (The servo can take some water splashes and its cheap/easy to replace. Its not like I am going to drive it down into a lake.)

Now the steering is good and its more fun to drive...though without Diff the inner tire struggles in sharp turns...hmm

[Monouchi 19]

I also re-decorated the electronics layout to be able to fit my Nimhs.
(I wanted to use the same type of battery for all my cars for easy swap between.)

I made a foam pillow-box for battery protection, moved the ESC to one side and the reciever to the other side.
I put a strap holder on the bottom so the battery strap is attached to the box.

Works great and the car got a better weight distribution. (Bonus with the steering servo mounted up front.)

[Monouchi 19]

Wanted to try the diff so got one of those ball diffs.

Any tips when putting this together? How hard should I tighten it? Add screw lock?

[Monouchi 19]

The ball-diff was a success.
Now the scorcher feels really solid in racing.
I put a lot of screw-lock on the diff-bolt and after some races it still hasnt moved.

So, finished with all my cars with this hobby-revival, time for some racing with my boys.

[FerrisBFW 27]

I am about to build my Re-release SS and was hoping to gain some help on what battery to use.  I want to use a Tamiya RS540 Sport Tuned Motor, use the current ESC if I can and run nothing special battery.  Help!  I am getting very confused and dont have the time to research anymore.  I notice the LF1100 is not available in the UK, why is this?

Any thoughts on these batteries:

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/262119/

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/65376/

[Monouchi 19]

9 minutes ago, FerrisBFW said:

I am about to build my Re-release SS and was hoping to gain some help on what battery to use.  I want to use a Tamiya RS540 Sport Tuned Motor, use the current ESC if I can and run nothing special battery.  Help!  I am getting very confused and dont have the time to research anymore.  I notice the LF1100 is not available in the UK, why is this?

Any thoughts on these batteries:

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/262119/

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/65376/

I have a new LF1100 + new charger for sale in the Trading section.(Bought from japan.)

The LF1100 gave me good speed and time.
later I remodeled my SS to fit my Nimh packs, (3000mah) these works well with the sport tuned motor and 105 esc...BUT I get overheating.
Will try this weekend to go with the lower gear ratio and see if that helps.

the two batteries you linked will work well (If you dont get overheating like me?), the overlander will fit easily, the wheelspin will need some modification of the placement of parts inside the box.

[FerrisBFW 27]

thank you for replying.  So the Nimh cells faster than the LF1100?  I did see you were selling the charger and battery packs.

 

Mark

[Monouchi 19]

Yes, more punch from a 7.2v 3000mah.

[FerrisBFW 27]

another question, where did you get the wheels from?

Mark

[Monouchi 19]

The Rims are from pargu-store, they can also be found on ebay.

[FerrisBFW 27]

On 8/6/2017 at 11:05 PM, Monouchi said:

I need to make my Scorcher run fast with good steering....cos this is whats hunting me:

My two sons Kyosho Car crushers, full ball bearing and thorp equipped with Tamiya GT Tuned motors. :/

so whats that in the background?

[Monouchi 19]

Same as the RC car on the right but two years older.

[Aleblanc 57]

I'm guessing 1968 Charger.

[Monouchi 19]

21 minutes ago, Aleblanc said:

I'm guessing 1968 Charger.

Well done Sir.

[TracyD961 0]

Where did you score those Fabulous Alloy rims from ?? I NEED those !

[TracyD961 0]

Oopps, Never mind. I just read your response to someone else abut those

 

[Lightningrc 53]

Amazing paint job 

[Monouchi 19]

Thanks.

Yeah, no racing with the original body.