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Posted

Firstly and very importantly, I must say a huge thankyou to TheMidnight Pumpkin for shipping this to UK from USA. I would buy you a few beers, but it's a bit of a trek. 🤔

I think the undertray and stabiliser bars will migrate to my re-re, after restoration, they're still listed as option parts.

IF anyone has any parts or sees any for sale, I'd be grateful  for a "heads-up", thanks. This will be ongoing, but a slow burner. One thing don't need is the chain and sprocket set, I have that left over from the re-re that had belt drive.

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  • Like 2
Posted

I'm glad you can't buy me that beer!  I'm a total beer snob, and only drink wussy light beer.  :lol:

But I am glad that you like the car. I only bought these cars to help someone who's having health issues. So I literally had no plans to do anything with them, beyond dumping them on ebay. So its way better that they went to people who will use them.

Posted

Nice one! I have always loved the Optima series, and as soon as Kyosho decides to grace us with a Javelin re-re, I will be all over it. I have a 90% restored Optima on the shelf that I can't bring myself to finish and run yet...

I don't know if I can help with parts, but I can tell you one thing: that's a Turbo Optima. Reinforced suspension arms and swaybars at both ends are a clue, but the real giveaway is that bottom chassis protector. It was only on the Turbo Optima and Salute, and as far as I remember, not available back then as an Option House part. (Though apparently it is now?) It should also have full ball bearings and a rudimentary slipper clutch on the top shaft of the gearbox. So you may want to think twice about removing the swaybars, and instead restore it as a Turbo. This means you'll be looking for 2.0" 8-hole wheels, and Gold shocks. And, if you can find one, a LeMans 240S motor.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
50 minutes ago, markbt73 said:

Nice one! I have always loved the Optima series, and as soon as Kyosho decides to grace us with a Javelin re-re, I will be all over it. I have a 90% restored Optima on the shelf that I can't bring myself to finish and run yet...

I don't know if I can help with parts, but I can tell you one thing: that's a Turbo Optima. Reinforced suspension arms and swaybars at both ends are a clue, but the real giveaway is that bottom chassis protector. It was only on the Turbo Optima and Salute, and as far as I remember, not available back then as an Option House part. (Though apparently it is now?) It should also have full ball bearings and a rudimentary slipper clutch on the top shaft of the gearbox. So you may want to think twice about removing the swaybars, and instead restore it as a Turbo. This means you'll be looking for 2.0" 8-hole wheels, and Gold shocks. And, if you can find one, a LeMans 240S motor.

Thanks for all of that, much appreciated.

I stripped it last night and most of it is intact. Unfortunately, the rear gearbox isn't so good. It looks like something has broken and and wrecked the insides. There's two strange soft aluminium gears, where the slipper should be and an extra shaft in some hand drilled holes.  Very ingenious though.

My re-re Optima is built, OCD style but I've had a nightmare with the stickers. I found it impossible to get the blue and yellow to go into the corners AND match up with the next one. I tried water, hairdryer, the lot. I'll buy a new body set and stray one instead and keep this one as a run body.

My re-re Turbo Scorpion is still sealed in it's box. I'm 50/50 leave it or build it. It is a most achingly beautiful car! 😍

Posted

The final drive gear is made of even softer metal than Tamiya pinions, and when it wears out, it takes the rear diff gear with it. You can replace it with a steel pinion gear made for big brushless motors (32 pitch, 5mm shaft, 19 tooth I think?). The input shaft should have a spring and a pair of friction plates holding the gear onto the shaft, with no cross-pin. If there is a cross-pin, either someone drilled it themselves (which I did for my Optima), or they used a later Ultima II or Outrage style input shaft.

Post a photo of the gearbox if you can, and I (and others) can help you sort out how it's supposed to be.

Posted
22 hours ago, markbt73 said:

The final drive gear is made of even softer metal than Tamiya pinions, and when it wears out, it takes the rear diff gear with it. You can replace it with a steel pinion gear made for big brushless motors (32 pitch, 5mm shaft, 19 tooth I think?). The input shaft should have a spring and a pair of friction plates holding the gear onto the shaft, with no cross-pin. If there is a cross-pin, either someone drilled it themselves (which I did for my Optima), or they used a later Ultima II or Outrage style input shaft.

Post a photo of the gearbox if you can, and I (and others) can help you sort out how it's supposed to be.

I've had a good nose around the gearbox. There's no sign of any spring and friction plate/slipper components, it looks like someone has "bypassed" it with extra gears. The rear gearbox will have to be replaced though, both large bearings have seized and worn the bearings seats into an oval. I've downloaded the PDF manual, so I'll put together what I can and see where I am with it. I've also put a couple of saved searches do parts on various eBays.

Are the chain and sprockets from my Re-re Optima usable in this?

Posted

Yikes!  I had no idea on the condition of this thing. Like I said I just bought the 2 buggies to help someone out. I never got to even try to run either of them. G.S. I'll send you something to make up for it not being completely on the up and up.

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Posted
6 hours ago, TheMidnight Pumpkin said:

Yikes!  I had no idea on the condition of this thing. Like I said I just bought the 2 buggies to help someone out. I never got to even try to run either of them. G.S. I'll send you something to make up for it not being completely on the up and up.

That's very kind of you, but quite unnecessary. There's still some good parts to start the project. We're good dude! 😁

Posted

For a "back burner" project, I've had quite a good start. I've nearly finished taking it to the last nut and bolt and I've downloaded the correct PDF manual. If not as complicated as the re-re Optima.

My plan is to clean, mend, make and replace parts, to do a dry fit mock up. The tear it down for finishing. 

I managed to obtain another rear gearbox, largely unmolested. It has the white chocolate aluminium gear.

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The basic slipper parts are here as well, and the drive gears will need replacing.

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Another result is that I have found a place that will re-anodise the aluminium, basically for beer money if one of his guys does it in his lunch break.

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Lastly, this will be my entrant in the Iconic races. I've got the other two to admire, so this is my runner. Providing it turns out well, will it be quite a rare car, or worth a bit? A lot of me will be in this build, so I have no plans to let it go,

 

  • Like 2
Posted
On 8/13/2017 at 9:13 PM, Granddad Stinky said:

I've started!

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You sure know how to make a mess of a car!  -lol

But seriously, who would have ever thought a random yard sale find in poor condition would be desired enough to be completely restored. I'm impressed by the challenge ahead of you. This is going to be awesome to see!

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Sorry to be a real pain about this but.....

Some people on various Facebook groups have told me this is an Optima Pro, because it has the under guard. On here and other groups I'm told it's a Turbo because it has the underguard.

Please can you put me straight, once and for all. 

Gratitude in advance. 🙏

 

Posted

Honestly, it's a pile of parts that could have come out of either box. I don't know much about the Pro, other than it had an ugly body and was for sale for about a millisecond before the Mid came out. But I do know that the Turbo was the first variant to come with the webbed suspension arms, swaybars, and undertray, and I'm sure it sold better than the Pro. You could rebuild this as either (or as a Salute, for that matter) and it will still be a cool car.

One more word of warning: the threads on that top shaft for the slipper are 3mm, but left-handed. Don't try to thread a regular 3mm nut on there.

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