Stomping Around, all but done!

[graemevw]

So, my new project. Nothing particularly flash. Might get flasher as I go along, funds dependant. 

 

As you can probably guess from the first pic its a bit of a blackfoot/brat mongrel and will end up with some other stuff in it to.

I figured the best option was to buy two kits to start.

I still need, (not a conclusive list)

 

TLT1 wheels and tyres

Some kind of hex front spindle, maybe the traxxas ones

Rear hex adapters (i might make these to get track width exactly where I want it.

Front arms? (Depends how track width works out)

Front shock mounts.

 

Ill scree the diff for now but might go ball diff later

Ill probably also mount the rear arms on bearings once its up and running.

 

 

Im MEGA tempted to paint everything the same colours as the tech drawings but maybe ill leave that for a different build.

[Granddad Stinky]

Following... 😁

[graemevw]

Ive been studying the manuals (ive owned orv cars before) to see what I need from each kit, trying not to open bags I don't need to.

Im not really going to get very far untill I sort the diff.

I had a hunt and I have no m2.5 stuff at all. I mocked the diff up to see how far apart the cups end up. 

I already have 3mm tap, the right drill bits and a 3x27mm screw in screw bag E. I also found this little bearing. It should all fit nice. Im throwing the bearing in (I know it should be a thrust bearing) as im slightly concerned about the screw head wearing and the diff loosening.

Im a bit concerned about the groove behind the splines on the cups. Wall thickness is going to be a little thin. But I have more cups, if it breaks ill order some M2.5 stuff.

 

Unfortunately I have to go to physio shortly so diff will have to wait until this evening.

[OwainP]

Definitely following this build, cant wait to see the final outcome!

 

[graemevw]

Well that was easy. These drive cups are made of cheese.

 

The center pin is just threadlocked in. Warm it up and the pin pulls out.

Drilled it out to 2.5mm and tapped it M3 in the pillar drill. Then drilled the other cup 2.5 then 3mm.

 

[graemevw]

Dry assembled the diff and it feels good. I dont think going to m3 will matter.

What may matter is the screw head protrusion in the drive cup with the bearing in there. Ill see when its together. If its bad ill recess the bearing into the cup a bit.

[graemevw]

Dullest update ever.

Still building it dry until im 100% sure the diff set up is ok.

Should get most of what i can done on the chassis tomorrow, only so much I can do till I get the wheels.

Then I guess I'll start on the body for a while.

[graemevw]

The rear end is dry built.

I greased the joints on the axles so I dont have to take the rubber boots off again though.

Again I assembles dry then greased, why the manual seems to suggest assembling greased parts is beyond me!

 

Two things have become apparant.

1, there is no room for the bearing on the diff screw. There also isnt enough meat to recess the bearing into the cup. This means its back to the countersunk screw.  These rere joints need all the cup slot.

 

2, the rear arm pivot is awful. Ive only had used orv cars before. Im sure they wear in, im sure grease and careful assemble/fitting/torque will help. But its bad enough for me to say 'sod it', ill do the bearing mod now.

 

Not sure how long it will take, probably have it done by friday.

[graemevw]

Just been sat looking at this and there are two more things im not entirely happy about.

Not sure if its normal, not sure if I even need worry, but one drive cup in the diff sticks out more than the other. One is almost touching the plastic bearing cup.

The other issue is those white plastic bearing cups. They are loose in the side plates. I can wobble the whole diff assembly about. 

Im 99.9% sure I built it right, its coming apart again anyway though so ill triple check.

Anyone elses orv like this?

[graemevw]

Im not sure on my phone how I can get the pics in between the text so this may be all text, then pics below.

 

I took the diff out and had a look. You can see how the drive cups sit different. Not a big deal, but annoyed me. I shortened one cup so it sits in the bevel gear more. I also put the countersunk screw in. Ill see how it goes.

Diff feels good even though its dry.

[graemevw]

Then I looked at the plastic bearing retainers, they are loose in the side plates.

 

so I screwed the plates to a board and using a pin hammer and punch put 4 equal spaced  pinch points in the lip.

[graemevw]

The first side went perfect. I did exactly the same on the other side but it wasn't as loose to start with so ended up a bit tight. 

Tiny tickle with a file sorted that.

All back together and the drivetrain feels great.

 

I swapped the swingarm retainers and the rear arms work 'ok' (ish). I need to order some bearings to do the rear arms so ill sort the pivots later.

 

It would appear ive reached pic limit. Can I no longer just use the sites photo uploader? Am I now going to have to use a third party host?

 

I was trying to avoid that due to the recent photobucket fiasco. 

[graemevw]

Pics seem to work again. Obvious what this one is

[graemevw]

Not much I can do chassis wise untill I get the wheels so had a look at the body.

 

Decisions have been made!

[graemevw]

Nearly ready to flat and prime.

Going for filler less roll bar and sunroof delete (why do tamiya stick sunroofs in everything, wasnt even an option on F series  trucks).

 

Not sure why im bothering, it will be a runner, it may be quick, it will get jumped. 

Oh well, nothing else to do.

[graemevw]

Got some paint on it.

No filler in it at all.

3 coats if colour, 3 coats of clear all laid wet on wet.

Should hopefully settle down well. Might flat, might not. Nit sure if ill clear over the decals or not yet.

[graemevw]

Im not a fan of overspray and didnt want to paint the inside so I masked in about 10mm inside.

[graemevw]

I drilled the aerial hole out before I painted.  They set this up so the tube is mounted to the shell and every time you take it off you have to re thread the reciever wire!

Ill remount, or just bend the tube. It can now pass through the body.

Also just noticed the spray can says leave the metallic base for 24hrs, then rub back and clear.

Whoever wrote that wants sacking.

[Kingfisher]

2 hours ago, graemevw said:

all laid wet on wet.

That's how I paint mine. Spray the first coat, then go out into the sunlight and you can watch the paint start to flash. Once the glossy wet paint look is gone, add another coat and repeat until done. Probably all of 45 seconds between coats on a hot day. Then let it sit for a day or two to dry. 

Oh, and cannot even tell it had a sun roof now.

[graemevw]

2 minutes ago, Kingfisher said:

That's how I paint mine. Spray the first coat, then go out into the sunlight and you can watch the paint start to flash. Once the glossy wet paint look is gone, add another coat and repeat until done. Probably all of 45 seconds between coats on a hot day. Then let it sit for a day or two to dry. 

Oh, and cannot even tell it had a sun roof now.

Indeed. 

Its a pretty risky if your not used to it but it had lots of benefits.

Speed! All 6 coats were done within an hour.

Adhesion, all coats properly bond to the previous. Flat too fine between dry coats and it sometimes doesnt grip.

Finish, it will lay flat better, especially with solvent paint as it shrinks and tightens as it dries. 

Metallics need clear to be laid on a wet final colour coat anyway as you cant key dry metalic base without ruining it (best not to flat and final colour coat really).

[graemevw]

Got the grill painted.

Not perfect, but its not a shelf queen.

Hoping the decals will arrive tomorrow. Tomorrow I think ill start on the rear arm pivots too. I need to cut up a sacrificial arm to get the best bearing size.

[graemevw]

Long overdue update!

 

Its FINALLY on its wheels. Its been a bit of a headscratch, but ive got it where I wanted to be.

Rear arms are on bearings with tamiya alloy hex adapters.

Blackfoot shocks and shock mounts, diy arm strengtheners.

I put a torque tuned in it, currently set at 52/16, will see how that works with the wheels.

 

Wheels are tlt, and to my eyes are the perfect size.

 

This ment converting the front to hex. I used df03 uprights.  I made an alloy shock tower so I could use the blackfoot shocks. Shocks are mounted 20mm lower down. This is so i can lower the body easier.

This ment new bottom mounts. I made some brackets out of carbon fiber. I ended up moving the shocks in at the bottom to clear the wheels. Wheels have less offset than brat/blackfoot.

This should keep the wheels slightly under the arches rather than all outside the arches like a blackfoot.

Front end is a bit stiff. I may move the top shock mounts in (that should soften it right?).

 

I still need to make new steering rods as the stock ones are too long. Ill no doubt center the servo at the same time.

I have a protech servo in it, speed and torque shouldnt be an issue!

I mounted the steering balljoints underneath a slightly slimmed servo saver. That, with the slightly higher steering arms on the df03 means no bump steer!

 

Shock screws need shortening and the diy parts still need finishing up. 

I also have a bit of a dislike for the front end slop, but im trying to stop myself mounting all the arms and steering uprights on bearings!

 

Ill get it buttoned up and post another pic when I have set the body height.

[graemevw]

[Frog Jumper]

3 minutes ago, graemevw said:

 

 

What are you using for your front knuckles???  

Terry

 

[graemevw]

DF03 knuckles.

Slimmed down and drilled for the stock screws.