Tips For Running a ReRe Wild One Please.

[Grumpy pants]

So having recently bought my 4th Wild One I have realised I like this model a lot and I need to keep this one. 

I sold the other 3 for various reasons all to T.C members and each time I sold, I then went onto replace it with another...go figure.

Any how my new one is running a stock 540 silver can on a Tamiya 02 ESC and bearings.

I'd really appreciate tips on upgrades to make this a really enjoyable, reliable runner for the woods and occasionallly for the beach. 

All tips, links and advice is always greatly appreciated.

Thank you in adavance.

Simon

 

[Theibault]

The WO is one of my all time favorite runners. I've had mine since it was first re released and it has been amazingly reliable. Bearings and a Sport Tuned are all I have done to mine. I run it frequently and I don't take it easy either. I have had zero issues and honestly, I haven't even done any maintenance on it other than occasionally use my air compressor to blow the dust off after every 4 runs or so. For beach running, just keep it out of salt water and get the sand out after the run. PS, I really like your red wheel nuts. Might have to get some for mine.  Here's a few videos I've made of it running.

 

 

 

 

[Grumpy pants]

That's excellent feedback Theibault, thank you. 

I have a sports tuned motor in my spares that needs rehoming.

I'll also get a steel pinion and a Radshape bumper and simply run it and have some fun.

Fab video clips as well, thanks for posting them.

Simon

[Juggular]

How about a Limited Slip Differential (effect).  With sticky differential grease.  

Bad Horsie sells very sticky grease.  It's like caramel or toffee (I don't recommend eating the grease).  After thoroughly (I mean really thoroughly) cleaning the diff, leaving no regular grease at all, I apply small amount on 4 axles.  The big one at the center of the gear that houses diff gears, and 3 axles of the bevel gears.  And the bevel gear teeth themselves.  Don't over do it like I did.  Older models like Wild One (like Pajero and Bigwig in the photos) have open differentials, and you don't want strings of sticky grease getting onto the regular gears.  

BadHorsie diff lock is not exactly dirt cheap ($10 a pop--but I've used on 4-5 vehicles).  I think it was worth the price.  It's stickier than Tamiya Anti-Wear grease.  I've first used on heavier Wild Willy 2 because I hated when Willy 2 would park his rear end on a tree stump and try to go with one leg (unsuccessfully).  With BadHorsie in the diff, one wheel on the ground has enough strength to unseat itself most of the times.  It even helps with heavy Juggernaut too.  Your diff will work like a Limited Slip Differential.  In my case, at least, all my vehicles became more willing to go the extra distance (so to speak).  For that, I think it was a good upgrade.  Even though it says "Diff Lock" it doesn't really lock it.  It drives better than diff locked car because differential still works.  It's best of both worlds.  I hope it helps.  

(FYI, I use 2 rubber shielded ball bearings on the axles only + plumbers pipe silicone on the seam to make the gearbox watertight.  And for about 15 years, I've been using Teflon silicone for regular gears.  It doesn't look it, but all the gears in the photos are greased.  I like it because it's very thin and very slick.)

 

 

 

[MadInventor]

I run mine with a hobbyking 1060 ESC and a Zippy 3S 2450 mAh LiPo. This gives it a good turn of speed without spending too much money (Less than the cost of a modified motor in the 1980s).