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Blista's M-07 Concept Chassis Kit Build

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I thought I'd create a fairly comprehensive build thread for the (#58647) M07 chassis kit.  It'll be pretty much as it is presented in the manual so this should be more helpful to beginners.

I sold my M05 chassis to fund this purchase and I don't regret it for a second.  The quality of this kit blows the M05 away in my opinion, as it should with the price difference and lacking some components.  Having said that, it has things most people want to buy straight away, such as bearings and CVA dampers.

Australia's RC-Mini.net posted on Facebook some in depth videos when the M07 was released.  The newer chassis is supposed to be much easier to setup and to make adjustments on, as well as outright better performance.

Looking through the manual it actually seems to be a very straight forward build.  This will initially be built as it comes in the box.  I haven't decided on tyres, motor, receiver, or even a servo for it at this point.  The body will be a Tamiya Honda CRX I previously finished, so it will be built middle wheelbase.  I am considering also getting a Tamiya Mazda 2/Demio to try the long wheelbase setting.

A few points to note about the M07:

  • The M07 features a TA06 gear differential.
  • You get some blue aluminium bits in the box.
  • No tyres, tyre inserts, motor, ESC, or body in the kit.
  • There's no short wheelbase on this chassis.

My workspace doesn't have the best lighting and I don't have a camera tripod so I'll experiment with improving the photos as I go.

Questions or comments are welcomed!

Step 1:

Very simple start.  Screws go underneath steering posts.

JAw8tN9l.jpg

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V3Fsywnl.jpg

Step 2:

Putting together the differential.  They're quite simple, not too fiddly.

You will need:

UQBd0xAl.jpg

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Trim the plastic from all the gears after removing them from the sprue.  Here's photo of before.

5gEboefl.jpg

I trimmed them with a hobby knife.  Why didn't I photo these on the green cutting mat?  Lesson learned.  Here's the after shot.

Q7PYWMkl.jpg

Next put the cup joint into the diff half, then pop the o-ring over it.  The Tamiya wrench tool is handy here to push it on evenly.

oCH1BPLl.jpg

Shim next.

yoyrmBil.jpg

Now the shaft goes into the diff joint cup.  There's a horizontal hole and the shaft isn't easy to adjust inside the diff case.  I recommend using a pair of tweezers.

jCnFDHSl.jpg

Put the GV2 gear, lining up the recesses with the shaft.

mNG6iqul.jpg

Other side of the diff is basically identical.  Here's the finished product.

Lmr4FdDl.jpg

Assemble the gears.

ONASblVl.jpg

Insert into diff case.

McfDaR5l.jpg

Fill with diff fluid.  The kit supplies #100,000 oil.  You should fill to the level of the cross bar holding the gears.  It's thick enough that it will just sit on top of the diff gears, so it looks over-filled in the photos.  I slowly turned the diff joint cup to move it around the diff a bit.  The manual shows an image of the oil being poured in, but its way too thick for that and they supply a small bottle that needs to be squeezed.

Jl4QwT5l.jpg

Line up the gasket with the screw holes.

FrI2VBWl.jpg

Put the diff cover on.  It will line up with the square notches in the gasket and other diff half.

nQ6N6vAl.jpg

Screw the two halves together.  I incrementally screw them in, using a cross pattern.

fA3Jf7Gl.jpg

Slide the bearings on and it's done.  They can be a tight fit so keep them as even as possible when sliding them on to prevent them getting stuck.

7FCSofvl.jpg

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Nice, loving the detail! 

I've one of these on my wish list, but only if I ever get myself somewhere to actually race one

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7 hours ago, jupitertwo said:

Nice, loving the detail! 

I've one of these on my wish list, but only if I ever get myself somewhere to actually race one

Thanks!  Hopefully the details help someone out.

I doubt mine will be raced, there's simply nobody to race against where I am, but I enjoy a well engineered chassis.

Step 3:

Installing the motor plate.  What you need.  There's two slightly different smaller bearings in the bag so get the right one.

Mt4RRTbl.jpg

You will also need some thread lock.  It isn't included in the kit.

DvyslXel.jpg

You just need a little on the end of the screw.

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Then screw the shaft onto it.

LJaUddNl.jpg

Stack the gear, bearings and plastic shim from the B sprue as in the manual then slide it on.  You'll need to trim the excess plastic off the shim.

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Slide the plate into the chassis and screw it in place.

JvsJ3gel.jpg

Add a little grease around the gear.  Some people run gears dry, but I haven't seen anyone specifically recommend it for the M07 yet.

J6Df4fRl.jpg

The manual tells you to apply sponge to the motor plate, but they put it in the sidebar under the Step 5 parts list.  Do it before starting Step 4.

Use the grey sponge tape, not the double sided stuff.

D6zbtHNl.jpg

Trim to the sizes given and stick it on.

wT9A4pql.jpg

Step 4:

Installing the remainder of the drivetrain.

aQcZbMTl.jpg

Assemble as directed.  Very simple stuff.

M7mxJDCl.jpg

Now install the gear and the differential in the chassis, adding some grease.

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Four screws on one side to install the K8 part to the chassis.  I won't mention it every single time, but I do use a cross pattern pretty much everywhere when installing screws and am careful not to over tighten.  I also use Tamiya JIS screwdrivers which work nicely with Tamiya screws.

I should also mention that the manual tells you to place supplied aluminium tape over that over hole in the bottom of the chassis.  It is there to allow quick access to the pinion.  It might be fine when racing on carpet, but the tape won't last long.  Others have installed tape on the inside.  Personally, I'm ordering a part from Shapeways that plugs the hole.

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Flip it over, and there's four more to tighten around where the diff is.  Check to make sure your diff spins in place by turning the joint cups.

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Step 5:

Bumper install.

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Attach the bumper and install the screws.  Two below.

JcCUomel.jpg

One on the other side.

Djb6DFQl.jpg

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Step 6:

Front arms install.  Starting parts bag B.

1YaH1e7l.jpg

Ball connectors in.

2vgz6FVl.jpg

Grub screws in.  Make sure you get them installed the correct way.  They will be used to adjust droop.

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Now connect your plastic parts together and insert the shafts.  The small screws go in the hole next to the one used for the shafts.

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All done.  It should look like this.  From this angle those grub screws are pointing down.  The next step shows why.

wNMBCNUl.jpg

Step 7:

Your completed Step 6 part gets installed.

HW6utrPl.jpg

Underneath your chassis, screw in your arm assembly.  Those grub screws now contact the chassis, adjustments to them can be used to change droop settings.

RKuYMerl.jpg

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Step 8:

This step isn't hard but you do need to pay attention to the manual and have a bit of patience with the smaller bits.  I've detailed one side, the other is its mirror opposite.

OG0GEvPl.jpg

Ball connector on.

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A bit of grease on both the joint and swing shaft, then the shaft goes into the joint.  The joint has a small hole through it that you want facing outwards through the gaps in the shaft for the next step.

hJiP2Qpl.jpg

Place the axle over the end of the swing shaft.  Hopefully you've lined up the holes from the axle to the joint inside the swing shaft, and a small shaft, with a little grease on it, now goes through them all.

PYswmRnl.jpg

Now place the axle ring over the axle.  Inserting it's small tab into one of the empty holes.  Note the axle ring direction as it is written in the manual for each side.

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Hard part over, now just start add the bearing and C2 spacer.

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Slide it all into the C4 plastic part.  Add your bearing and then the tiny metal shim.  Lock it all in place with the snap pin.  The bearing is meant to sit out a little.

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Both done.

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Step 9:

You'll need something to drill a 2.5mm hole in this step.

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You drill in through the recess here on top.

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And stop when you've reached this horizontal hole.  Don't keep going right through the other side.  Clear both holes of debris.

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Yet another ball connector to go in.

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Combine the parts from the previous step.  Paying attention to orientation of each part.  You want the ball connectors both facing up.

Now simply add the small metal pipe into the top hole and screw the two units together.

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Flip it over and add the pipe and screw it together underneath.

kj0Q4LUl.jpg

Do both sides and you're done.

4aGlTB5l.jpg

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Step 10:

Putting it all together.

4ljWOR9l.jpg

Lightly coat the swing shaft with grease before inserting into the cups (Some people don't).

Re82BYul.jpg

This photo is to show how you should put the shaft into the upright and then secure it with the grub screw.  Don't actually do this just yet.  You want to make sure the grub screw meets the flat notch in the shaft.

oGVsRFcl.jpg

Insert the completed hub into the suspension arm, making sure you get the right side.  Now you'll want to slide the shaft through both parts.  It might take a bit of effort to line them up.  Now you can lock it in place with the grub screw.

This is what it should look like after you've put it all together.

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Start twisting the turnbuckles together and you end up with one of these.

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Attach them to the ball connectors and now everything should hold together.

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Step 11:

Attaching two chassis braces.

IEOFBUGl.jpg

Just screw them in and you're done.

blyASQVl.jpg

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24 minutes ago, OwainP said:

Really nice build so far, love the detail! 

Thanks! Glad you like it.

Step 12:

Putting the steering together.  A couple of the photos here aren't too good.

mF1hAUal.jpg

Add the ball connectors.

gtM8J5Ql.jpg

You'll need to make up another two turnbuckles.  Note they need to mirror each other.

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Click them into place.  Make sure the turnbuckles face the right way.

SWtillOl.jpg

One more ball connector for the servo to attach to (later on).

Q6KOuiKl.jpg

Slide the ball bearings into the recesses and then add the screws through them into the arms.  Don't tighten it so the arms won't move freely.

lmHDEVll.jpg

Put two ball bearings onto the steering posts.  Unfortunately it seems like most of the blue aluminium will be covered up during the build.

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Now put the steering assembly onto the posts, then add the final two ball bearings on top of the posts.  Check things move smoothly without any binding.

l1wMWZll.jpg

Step 13:

Body posts and finishing the steering assembly.

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Pretty simple, just add the two screws underneath to the body posts.  The manual warns you not to over tighten them for some reason.  I guess it's so they won't come apart in a crash.

Cg3ltN4l.jpg

Now use the remaining screws to attach it to the steering posts and chassis.  Everything should still move smoothly.  The front is getting near being complete now.  Already I'm thinking "I wonder how much the aluminium steering setup is?" and similarly expensive thoughts.

wsdbbXal.jpg

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Step 14, 15 & 16:

These steps are very brief, but make sure you get it right.

There's no motor included with the kit, I'm just using a stock 540 until I buy something better.  The kit pinion is a 20T.  I haven't read anywhere about it being hard coated aluminium, so I assume it's just a soft aluminium one.  In which case I'd recommend replacing it with either a hard coated one or steel.

Zt7EKNJl.jpg

Fix the pinion to the flat edge of the motor shaft.  It should be 17mm from the motor to the end of the pinion.

Jm6Y4Qgl.jpg

Slide the motor into the chassis through the motor plate.  You'll see two small holes in the motor you need to line up.

Pbpqw2Ql.jpg

Now insert a screw with a washer into each hole.  Don't completely tighten them until you have a good mesh between the pinion and gear.  It shouldn't be rammed right up against it, nor too far away.  I'm sure there's a better explanation by someone else out there.

FCohRk2l.jpg

Now just put on the cover and you're done.  I managed to put mine in upside down but it pops out easily.

NNpLAnwl.jpg

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I am liking this post. I've seen a few M07s around on the European Tamiya Cup, and they seem to be the car to have now. The last A-main I saw was nothing but M07s, with the fastest M05 (R) being in the B-main somewhere in 3rd place. They're that good. I used to have an M05 Pro V2. I sold it as I just couldn't get used to the different driving style required for a FWD car. I liked the way it ran with an open diff, but with a spool I couldn't get the back end to stop stepping out at the apex under power. The M07s oil-filled diff should allow a good compromise between a spool and an open diff.

Keep it up! I love the attention to detail in this post. Curious to see what the performance will be like too.

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5 hours ago, GooneyBird said:

I am liking this post. I've seen a few M07s around on the European Tamiya Cup, and they seem to be the car to have now. The last A-main I saw was nothing but M07s, with the fastest M05 (R) being in the B-main somewhere in 3rd place. They're that good. I used to have an M05 Pro V2. I sold it as I just couldn't get used to the different driving style required for a FWD car. I liked the way it ran with an open diff, but with a spool I couldn't get the back end to stop stepping out at the apex under power. The M07s oil-filled diff should allow a good compromise between a spool and an open diff.

Keep it up! I love the attention to detail in this post. Curious to see what the performance will be like too.

Thanks, I'm happy there's people that are liking the level of detail!  There's so much information about race settings and fine-tuning, I thought I'd do something a bit different.  If only I could get a more consistent result from my photos!

The M07 really does seem like a big step up over the M05 and without losing the M-Chassis character.  I read elsewhere that a well sorted M06 can still beat the M07 while the M05 struggles to keep up.  I think the main benefit is that you've now got a chassis that can be consistent and handle the upgrades you throw at it.  I didn't drive my M05 much before I sold it but I can see this one getting used all the time.

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Step 17, 18 & 19:

Shock building.  It seems like a lot of people have their own way to build shocks.  I mostly follow the Tamiya steps but with one or two small changes.  Make sure to trim plastic left from the sprue cleanly when removing parts.

V5BPCIcl.jpg

Building the shafts would be a lot easier with a proper tool for the e-rings.  I make do with pliers.  I also use fine sandpaper to smooth the plastic edge.

JJjKJtPl.jpg

The manual diagram tells you to coat the o-rings with damper oil.  I make a little puddle and sit them in it while organising other things.  They'll swell a little but the silicone o-rings don't swell as much as rubber ones.

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I don't know if it makes a difference but I like to get the o-rings seated nicely in the shock body first and then carefully insert the piston.

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Then seal it with the cap.

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Every shock I build I tell myself to buy some of the Tamiya rubber grip pliers, but I never do.  I wrap some paper from a drawing pad around the shaft to protect it, then grip it with pliers while twisting the end on.

tzHirahl.jpg

Now fill the shock body with oil.  Fill it halfway and then move the piston up and down a bit to suck oil underneath it.  Then fill it near full and work the piston up and down, turning it slightly each time to find any air bubbles trapped underneath.  I also flick the side of the shock body to make sure no air is trapped.

Ideally, you'd get a shock pump.  E-ring tool, shock pliers, shock pump.  Three valuable tools I don't have because I keep spending money on bodies and paint.

Once you're sure the air is out, put the oil seal on top.  Oil should leak over at least a little bit so you haven't left any air inside.  I typically over-fill and then wipe it up just to be sure.

PUlzEBjl.jpg

Put the top cap on.  If you look at the photo you can see a bright metal line around the piston rod near the shock body.  That's where I got lazy and didn't make sure the pliers were only touching the paper.  It's only superficial but annoying because I didn't pay attention.

4xuTnryl.jpg

Add the spring, et cetera and you're done.  There's two different springs with the M07 kit.  A little dab of paint tells you which is which.  Gold up front, blue out back.

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Step 20:

Front shock mounting.

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Just a couple of ball connectors and screws.

XbcLe6xl.jpg

Push the shock over the ball connectors up top and below.  Easy.

MtMJGbDl.jpg

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Step 29:

(Steps 21-28 are for the long wheelbase)  Rear body mounts and rear suspension.

WFrBvMDl.jpg

Drop the lock nuts into their slots, getting them facing the right way.

gpVh0NCl.jpg

Put together the lower arm mounts.

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Now screw them into the lock nuts.  Make sure the small tab on the mounts is in their slot.

7JCSrZRl.jpg

Now just screw the body mounts in place.  They can be mounted with the bend in them forwards or backwards depending on whether you're fitting Medium or Long wheelbase shells.  I should mention that if your shell has pre-drilled holes they might not fit.  I test fitted a CRX shell and the holes at the back do not fit in either orientation.  The front holes are fine, but you'll have to re-drill holes in the back.

XbDjPT1l.jpg

Step 30:

Assembling the rear arms.

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Add the ball connectors.

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Add the grub screws.  Check you're adding it to the right hole and in the right direction.

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And now add everything together.

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Step 31:

Installing the rear arms.  A bit fiddly but straight forward.

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Add the lock nuts same as before.

uHiUkGSl.jpg

Now slot the metal shaft into the mount you already have installed.  At the other end I had the screw and the washers all set up so I could just pop everything into place and then tighten the screw in the lock nuts.  You can use the washers between the mount and the chassis here to adjust rear toe angles.  More washers, more toe, and vice versa.  A simple and effective solution.

HSWEubOl.jpg

This photo came out a bit blurry, but you can see the correct order of washers.  One large on the outside, two small inside.

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Back on top of the chassis, install the ball connectors.  You can see behind them the grooves for the optional stabilizer kit.

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Step 32:

Rear bulkhead install.

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Four screws.  Done.

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Step 33:

Rear axles.  You'll need to drill two more 2.5mm holes just like in Step 9.

ajcSUPCl.jpg

Slightly different ball connectors.

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Slot everything together as per the manual.  Just be sure you get the shims and spacers in the right order.

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Step 34:

Attaching the rear axles.  Putting together more turnbuckles.

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As always, check the length and orientation of the turnbuckles.

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Like Step 10, install the shafts and hold them in place with the grub screw.

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Turnbuckles on and you're good to go.

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Step 35 & 36:

Installing the rear shocks.

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Ball connectors.

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Push the shocks onto the ball connectors.

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Screw the shock arm onto the chassis and then attach the shocks to the lower ball connectors.

u4HHxZKl.jpg

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nice build - I've got a few M05's so this might make for a nice upgrade for me.

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I'm liking this build and the detailed photos so much, I may actually get one of these.  I did thoroughly enjoy my M05 MiTo when I had it, but always felt it wasn't worth keeping around unless there was a place to race it.

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Nice thread.... I notice in the pics the plastic pieces have a different texture than normal Tamiya kits... kinda reminds me of the Traxxas plastics or some type of carbon reinforced stuff. If you mentioned this before Ignore me

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10 hours ago, Aleblanc said:

nice build - I've got a few M05's so this might make for a nice upgrade for me.

Thanks, I can easily recommend this if you're already an M05 fan.

7 hours ago, firefoxussr said:

I'm liking this build and the detailed photos so much, I may actually get one of these.  I did thoroughly enjoy my M05 MiTo when I had it, but always felt it wasn't worth keeping around unless there was a place to race it.

Good to hear you're liking it.  I had somewhere to race my M05 but I'd be stuck primarily racing young kids.  I might take my M07 along and some of the adults might see that the m-chassis is for old guys too.

7 hours ago, TwistedxSlayer said:

Oooooo i may need to find the pennies for one of these. Loving this thread.

Thanks!  Start putting that money aside.  You won't regret it (but I may be a tad biased).

7 hours ago, iluvmud said:

Nice thread.... I notice in the pics the plastic pieces have a different texture than normal Tamiya kits... kinda reminds me of the Traxxas plastics or some type of carbon reinforced stuff. If you mentioned this before Ignore me

Cheers.  Yes, I probably should've mentioned earlier that this does have the better quality plastic found on some of the more premium Tamiya kits.  I can't remember if Tamiya say its glass-fibre or carbon reinforced.  Either way its much stiffer.

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Step 37:

Servo saver install.  Tamiya includes the 51000 High-Torque Servo Saver with the kit which is a nice addition.  I intended on fitting a Savox SC-1252MG low profile servo, but the new Queens of the Stone Age album was released today so a trusty Futaba S3003 will do for now.  Check which servo saver parts and screw you need in the manual.

54zj0cOl.jpg

The final ball connector of the kit.

29GuQyFl.jpg

Putting together the servo saver can take some effort.  Getting the second gold ring over the first is the hardest part.  My technique is to place the second gold ring on top, hold the saver underneath with your thumbs, then pull apart the second gold ring with your index fingers while pushing it down.  It should slip on and after that it's easy.

52XlCJil.jpg

The final object should look like this.

KoJL9nPl.jpg

Center your servo as described in the manual then push the saver on and screw it in place.  Mine is slightly off so trim adjustment will be necessary.

bvkb8Iil.jpg

Step 38:

Install the servo.  I ended up also needing the smaller servo risers which aren't pictured here.

IgGLVUrl.jpg

Put your turnbuckles on the arm.

hsX4tBnl.jpg

They should be 90mm apart.

tGELodql.jpg

Add your On/Off switch platform.

39ZR7DUl.jpg

And your aerial holder.

U6exKral.jpg

Installing the servo was more of a hassle than I would have thought.  For a standard size servo I still needed both the small and large risers.

xUh0ROkl.jpg

The gap for the wires isn't very spacious.  The wires coming out of the servo push up against the chassis.  I ran them under the servo and out the back but there wasn't much choice in the matter.

pG8iZcjl.jpg

At the other end it can come back up into the chassis.

JCVQjQOl.jpg

Pop on your steering-to-servo arm and the your steering is done.

upfYVHDl.jpg

There's a small platform that can be installed in the center of the chassis.  The manual just says "Use as you like" but I can't think of anything to use it for so I'm not bothering with it.

Only half a dozen steps to finish the M07 at this stage but I have to order an ESC.  It could take a week or two waiting for it to arrive.  I test fitted a Tamiya TBLE-02S I had spare that I intended to use and it's not a great fit in my opinion.  At least its an excuse to order a few more bits.

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Awesome, thanks for doing a build thread! Very tempting purchase 😊

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1 hour ago, berman said:

Awesome, thanks for doing a build thread! Very tempting purchase 😊

Thanks, its a fun build and goes together almost too easily.

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Step 39:

ESC and receiver installation.  I'm using a Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 ESC and a Futaba R203GF receiver.

(FYI: I had to wait for these to arrive so I came back to this step after completing the rest.)

iUNQ4yXl.jpg

First get an idea of how you want them sitting in the chassis.

KsNmTYcl.jpg

I trimmed the plastic aerial cover down so it won't extend outside of the shell.

taIJ9U4l.jpg

Now add some double-sided tape to your receiver and ESC.  I don't cover the whole length because I'm bound to end up taking them out in the near future.  A bit of a gap on each side helps when you're trying to lever them out.

UASQuXDl.jpg

Peel the remaining layer off the tape and put the receiver in place.  I've left slack in the aerial but kept it tidy so it doesn't catch on anything.

N3TLMd5l.jpg

Now do the same with the ESC.  The On/Off switch is a bit of a stretch but it fits.

mmr2dgrl.jpg

Motor wires hooked up then use a zip-tie to hold them to the chassis.

fXSyw7Dl.jpg

Plug your servo and ESC into the receiver.  Hook up a battery and test things out.  I zip-tied the servo wires just to keep things a bit tidy.

(If you didn't center your steering servo before attaching the servo saver then you might find the steering is all over the place.  Take off the servo saver, center the servo, then reinstall the saver.)

R2sZWCIl.jpg

Step 40:

Gluing the tyres.  I'm using my yellow Mini Cooper wheels as I'll be fitting other tyres to the black kit wheels.  I'm using the basic inner sponge and tyres for now.

dlwKu1Xl.jpg

First step is to glue the inner sponge together in a circle.  You'll need to buy some rubber cement.

kcxFj0sl.jpg

Add a little to each end of the sponge then wait for it to go tacky.  It should only take a few minutes.  Connect them until they hold together.  This can take a while so I cut a hole in a bit of cardboard, put the sponge inside it and then leave it until its set.

xC8mUQHl.jpg

The ends are folded down so there's no chance of it accidentally sticking to the surface it's sitting on.

eVWJuUEl.jpg

Now that its ready, fill the tyre evenly.

Di5xCstl.jpg

Now push the wheel into the tyre without disturbing the inner sponge.

I6FgUgvl.jpg

Now you'll need some glue for sticking the tyres and the wheels together.

zu4TkYFl.jpg

I've got the Tamiya tyre cement tool which helps keep the glue even and off your fingers.

CSCmJj8l.jpg

Hopefully you can see that when you push down on the wheel it exposes the bead.  Run a small amount of glue around it.  Do both sides but not until the first side has dried.

hmyM6MLl.jpg

Step 41:

Fitting the wheels.

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Pull the pin out of the axle and replace it with one of the shafts.

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Now just push the plastic hex on.  It should fit over the metal shaft.

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Now just fit the wheels and tighten the lock nut up.  Yellow wheels with blue lock nuts certainly stands out.  Perhaps not in a good way though.

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Step 42:

Fitting the front bumper.

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Simply slip the urethane bumper onto the posts.

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Now fit the top and the two screws.

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Step 43:

Fitting the battery brackets.

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Screw the top halves into place.

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Now add the bottom halves with the pins.  The square compartment will take Lipo batteries.

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Step 44:

Finishing the body mounts.

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On the rear mounts, fit the pins on both sides then add the brace between them.  Now add the o-ring on each.

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Now add the brace that attaches to the chassis and screw it in.  Although I'm using a middle-wheelbase body I have fitted the mounts in the long-wheelbase setup.  The Honda CR-X body fits better this way.

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The manual doesn't actually have a step telling you to fit a front brace but I did.  You could also use this up high on the rear if you are using a body that would suit it.

These braces are actually a great part for all M-Chassis cars.  The M07 A-Parts has the pair of them for a good price.  I'll be buying some for my MF01-X and hopefully the chassis braces can be adapted to work as well.

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The chassis is now all but finished.  It's going to feel like a long wait until the ESC and receiver arrive.

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Step 45:

Fitting the body.  I had to drill a couple of holes in the back of the body as the pre-drilled holes don't fit the M07 mounts.  With the mounts in the middle-wheelbase they would go through the window surround decal.

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Sit the body on, trim the posts.  Done.

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The yellow wheels are a bit much with this body and the blue lock nuts.  I threw some tyres on the black kit wheels to see how they'd look.  Better, but I think something other than Minilites will have to be found.

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Edited by Blista
Added Step 39
  • Like 9

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Those braces look awesome, I could use some as well. It's amazing how much a body wobbles that is mounted up high. 

 

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On 8/31/2017 at 8:52 PM, berman said:

Those braces look awesome, I could use some as well. It's amazing how much a body wobbles that is mounted up high. 

 

Yup, they are a great addition by Tamiya.

For anyone interested the A-Parts number is 51595.

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On 31/08/2017 at 11:29 AM, Blista said:

Yup, they are a great addition by Tamiya.

For anyone interested the A-Parts number is 51595.

What is the pitch of the cross brace? Will it fit on non M series touring cars?

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