New CC-01 Build

[Rcbasher 1]

Good afternoon ladies and gentlemen My name is Sam from Bristol U.K, ive recently got myself a 58602 Mitsubishi Pajero Rally Sport Kit and was wondering before I build what upgrades do I fit?

 

Ive ordered rubber sealed bearing kit as a first

Any help and pictures will be appreciated!

[Supercoolnothing 721]

Bearings are number one, I'd look at the gpm steering upgrade to get rid of the huge amount of slop that the cc01 has from stock.

Next up I'd use a couple of bushings from the kit in the rear diff to get rid of the slop there. You'll find a couple of videos on YouTube showing how to do it and I'm sure there's also info on here on how to do it. 

I locked both the front and rear diffs on mine from the start, the rear's a doddle to do and to lock the front you just need to drop one of the spare diff gears in between two of the gears in the front to stop them spinning. 

Depending on what your planning on doing with it the next order of business is tyres I use fastrax kong tyres on mine and they're great. 

The 4 link rear suspension set gets rid of the stock flexy plastic suspension arms and allows for more articulation in the rear. 

 

[Mad Ax 9325]

Welcome Sam.  The CC01 is a great kit and there's a whole host of mods you can do to improve its looks and performance.  As Supercoolnothing has said, the GPM steering upgrade it a must-have to sort out the stock steering, and bushings in the diff is worthwhile too.  Beyond that, it depends what you want to do with it.

There are four-link kits on the market, or if you're handy with a hacksaw, you can make your own.  You can mod the front hubs to get more steering (useful on the trails).  You can buy (or make) an undertray to top the link mounts getting hung up on rough terrain.  Tamiya's stock tyres are pretty poor but there are lots of 1.9 options on the market.  Some have a larger diameter than the Tamiya tyres, so depending on what you fit, you may need to lift your shell to stop them rubbing.

If you're planning on hitting the trails, check out the Somerset Scalers group on Facebook.  Sometimes we arrange little get-togethers.

http://www.facebook.com/groups/498137663631657/

The Jurassic Coast group is work following also, the two groups seem to cross over one another a lot.

Trooper's Hill used to be an awesome place for a scale adventure if it isn't overrun by dog walkers and mountain bikers.

 

[Rcbasher 1]

Cheers guys ive heard that the Gpm Bell crank setup is a bad fit?

[Supercoolnothing 721]

Some of them are reported to be poor tho tbh I suspect that the reports were from earlier ones, the one I fitted was absolutely perfect, it was a bit footery to install due to the lack of instructions but there's plenty of pics on the Internet that show it fitted so it's not too difficult to figure out. The other mod I did was to get rid of the stock servo saver and to use just a metal servo horn. I run savox servo's in all my cars and they're metal geared so they can take the extra strain. 

[Kingfisher 1171]

2 hours ago, Supercoolnothing said:

 

Next up I'd use a couple of bushings from the kit in the rear diff to get rid of the slop there. You'll find a couple of videos on YouTube showing how to do it and I'm sure there's also info on here on how to do it. 

@Rcbasher I have a picture showing this here in my Build thread. It's the 3rd pic down.

 

I've not upgraded my steering yet, but tires and skid plate made a huge difference on its capability. I would also recommend the Tamiya stroke extension kit for more articulation and travel.

[Supercoolnothing 721]

If you don't mind a wee bit of diy then you can easily make your own stroke extension kit from a couple of tl01 camber arms just drill a couple of holes into the chassis just below where the shock normally mounts and mount the camber arms with a nut and bolt. Then put a screw into the hole that goes through where the lwb version suspension mounts go to act as a bumpstop and job done. It's also considerably cheaper than the 25 quid or so that tamiya want and you're able to fine tune the ride hight by moving the bumpstop screw in or out. 

[Rcbasher 1]

Thanks @Kingfisher does that option pivot?

[Kingfisher 1171]

15 hours ago, Rcbasher said:

Thanks @Kingfisher does that option pivot?

It's more like a hinge. Here's a good tutorial and demonstration of it. 

 

[WillyChang 1814]

Build it stock with just the GPM steering rack, steel motor pinion and full ballbearings, then run it. (All of mine also get clampy hex hubs because I hate the plastic hexes coming off inside the wheels)

Everything else can be improved upon later after you've run & discovered its limitations.

it's pretty high geared so you'll get a fair turn of speed from stock 540, might want a crawler motor to slow it down. T now offers softer rubber than kit tyres but if you run on Tarmac, that just promotes traction rolling  

[Rcbasher 1]

Would I go 55T or 80T?

[Rcbasher 1]

Oh and pinion, is it 48dp? pitch. Also i've used in the past Rw pinions they seem pretty good

[Supercoolnothing 721]

Usually tamiya use 0.8 mod on their gears, some people say that it's compatible with 32dp but in my experience when you mix em they're noisy and not worth it when 0.8 mod's are easily available on fleabay etc.  

[taffer 948]

0.8 are typically older 80's Tamiya and 0.6 came in with the avante? Hence why you see them described as 21t AV for example (0.6mm)

CC01,wt-01,wr-01,tl-01 is 0.6mm

hot shot,boomerang,thundershot, grasshopper 2/rising fighter, striker, falcon, dt-02,dt-03 are a few that are 0.8mm

df-03 is 0.5mm I think

(this is just from memory without double checking the facts)

every Tamiya 0.8mm I've used RW 32dp steel pinion as a replacement (bought from Fusion hobbies) , my current Thundershot runner has had over 100 hours through it and the gears look perfect, yes slightly noisy but no problems whatsoever, 0.8mm are noisy compared to the finer pitches but I've always accepted that as part of the charm !😃 

it is said because they are so close (0.8 and 32dp) in size that its a viable alternative but there are no other comparable size equivalents

for example 0.6 mm and 48dp should not be mixed

(as far as I'm aware!)

when I first got back into Tamiya in 2003 to 2005 I used Tamiya aluminium pinions, I used to check them after every run then replace when needed (when starting to wear), it was a hassle that is not required once using steel

 

[Kingfisher 1171]

On 9/8/2017 at 0:20 PM, Rcbasher said:

Would I go 55T or 80T?

I have a 65T motor in mine, and it's just a little faster than walking. 

[Mad Ax 9325]

I find 55T is fine for multi-purpose use, tackling gentle trails without taking too long to get around the course.  I'd consider 80T if I really wanted more torque for tougher obstacles but that's got to be pushing the limits of what a CC01 can climb over without major mods.

[Aleblanc 57]

FYI, the hot racing steering kit is much nicer than the GPM, I've got both and the GPM loosens up very quickly.

Consider a GRU (gear reduction unit) if you want to be able to crawl with it, this mostly fixed the gearing issue.

[Juls1 1661]

With regards to the steering kit, yes gpm can be a pita, I've had 4 and they all didn't work properly, needed fixing and or where bin jobs.

yeah racing have just released a new complete steering setup (not the old carbon thing that only does half the job, this is a new design) and I think it might just be the best on the market right now. With the main shafts square drives and flanged bearings that fit directly in the chassis that fixes the shortcomings of the gpm kit along with bearing supported arms and adjustable turnbuckles the kit is pretty much very well sorted.

It can be bought separate for about $20usd or can be had in yeah racings new complete conversion which is around $90usd, both represent good value for money and being yeah racing it'll probably work well too.

as others have said bearings is no 1.

motor wise, I do long trail drives, generally following mtb tracks, often many many miles, and I prefer a 45T motor. If you want to crawl up things crazy slowly you'll need an 80T but I think this misses the point of the chassis. The cc01 is tenfold more stable on rough tracks at a faster than walking pace speed than any dual solid axle setup, yet modded right is just as capable as anything using the same size tyres that's still a scaled down version of a real road going vehicle. 

Juls

 

[Rcbasher 1]

Thanks guys for the comments, shes built and disappointed in the Tamiya quality these days

Uploading a small sclip is this normal when pressing down on the front suspension?

video-1506429081.mp4

[taffer 948]

remember the chassis is over 20 years old with only very minor tweaks, seems normal, also remember the chassis will probably never articulate that much in stock form unless your jumping! 😃 

[Percymon 2184]

Some of the rear link upgrade kits actually give no more articulation than the stock plastic items. Tamiyas hop up suspension extenders

 are basically little hinged platforms that give 5-6mm extra movement each side at the shock top mount.

The CC-01 goes together very quickly, there's not that many parts once you have the axles built.

Kong tyres make a big difference for trail running, less so in dry to moist dusty earth.

Alloy steering upgrade is very worthwhile, as are alloy steering linkages;

alloy uprights and steering knuckles if you fancy them, and universal driveshafts  - none are essential initially..

 Some people modify the block at the front of the chassis tub so it catches on obstacles less - i went with the Gmade lower bash plate which deflects the chassis over tree roots.

 

[Kingfisher 1171]

17 hours ago, Rcbasher said:

Thanks guys for the comments, shes built and disappointed in the Tamiya quality these days

Uploading a small sclip is this normal when pressing down on the front suspension?

video-1506429081.mp4

I don't recall my Landfreeder toe-ing the tires out on suspension compression. It's taken apart right now, but when I get it back together later today, I am definitely going to check.

 

 

[WillyChang 1814]

Check that you haven't switched around the knuckles, ballscrew pointing up. Steering link must be parallel with driveshaft not at a diagonal.

[No Slack 454]

Last weekend at the WTT in Belgium I was happy not having a solid four link. After a roll from a steep hill (10 m) I was happy to discover that the plastic stock items only needed to attach to the ball connectors again and I was ready to go again. I am sure that a solid four link would have caused a damaged/cracking chassis. Despite it is an old chassis it did surprisingly well on the trail. So RCBasher give it a second try.

[Kingfisher 1171]

9 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Check that you haven't switched around the knuckles, ballscrew pointing up. Steering link must be parallel with driveshaft not at a diagonal.

Agreed. Recheck your progress. Mine is back together and doesn't do that when compressed.