Jump to content
JennyMo

"OK TC" - Land Rover D90 Truck-Cab scale crawler

Recommended Posts

The attention to detail - and cheekiness - paid to the driver of this magnificent rig just adds to the excellence of this project :D

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, just a few more photos so I can finally call this one finished!

Jack at the wheel, on the rocks...

i-3b7Zj2D-XL.jpg

i-CdSS4Rz-XL.jpg

i-vctxDL3-XL.jpg

i-q3t9jDG-X2.jpg

 

After running the car over some pretty gnarly rocks in the local country park, Lisa popped a couple of tyres off the rims (despite the 'beadlock' Mad-Gear wheels) and also the plastic prop-shaft between the gearbox and transfer case popped a UJ in a particularly 'wedged' moment...

 

So it was back to eBay to upgrade yet more parts (this build really is like Trigger's Broom now!), with some Axial 'Trail Ready' pattern wheels - the same as I have on Desmond, and are rock-solid and nicely scale detailed for all-plastic moulded wheels  - ie. 'affordable' ;o)

Plus a super short metal driveshaft (50mm) for the link between the gearbox and transfer case - this wasn't especially cheap, but as I mentioned in my SRB Cage Racer thread recently, in turn led me down the rabbit hole of SLW pattern alloy hubs, which ought to finally see that vehicle on it's wheels (well, some new wheels) at last!

 

i-XJLNmPZ-XL.jpg

photo. The problem with the cheap plastic Mad-Gear wheels - the inner tyre flanges were very brittle and eventually snapped - this happened on my vehicle too.

i-Tf7rxQd-XL.jpg

photo. The most affordable solution was a set of Axial 'Trail Ready' internal bead-lock wheels $30 for a set of four including SLW pattern hubs to mount them to 12mm Hexes (they've revised the original design which had direct pin-drive hubs) - nice!

i-KzwqCmS-XL.jpg

photo. To get them to work properly with the thick beads of the original Mad-Gear tyres, the internal bead-lock section had to be sanded down a few mm. Everything is nice and snug now though!

 

So to finish, a few more photos with the new wheels fitted:

i-DSMwgTP-XL.jpg

photo. Surprisingly good articulation for such a short wheelbase and conventional rail chassis I thought?

i-LM6zmcf-XL.jpg

i-3mw2TSc-X2.jpg

 

i-2V8MjjT-XL.jpg

i-Rp7SsFR-XL.jpg

 

 

i-GJmGw29-XL.jpg

photo. You can see why I had to remove the front wings completely to fit the 2.2 tyres!

i-9vzZ638-XL.jpg

photo. ...and cut so much of the rear arches away too!

 

i-m54CDGQ-XL.jpg

photo. I love this view! (I purposely left the rear window glass out so you can put a camera though the cab).

 

i-LKngMjX-X2.jpg

photo. It's Happy Jack...

 

i-Xt8Mj54-X2.jpg

photo. ...and that's no lie!*

 

*Obscure Heaven 17 lyric reference there btw.

 

Toot too for now - and stand by for a serious update to the Cage Racer now that I'm back in the UK with a bunch of parts to unpack!

Jenny xx

 

 

 

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ps. With regard to my 'Trigger's Broom' comment above, I had a quick tally of the original Mad-Gear parts that were originally intended and actually used in this build:

Tyres x 4

Foams x 4

Wheels x 4 (ultimately had to be replaced with Axial IFD/SLW wheels)

Axles x 2

plastic prop-shafts x 2 (one had to be shortened, although ultimately both were replaced with metal versions)

Suspension links x 8 (although these were actually from my own donor vehicle, so Lisa still has all hers as spares)

9Kg Steering Servo* (*this will/was ultimately need to be replaced with a heavier duty version since it struggles to turn the weighted wheels) 

ESC and RX/TX gear

70T motor (had to be replaced with a 35T version for RC4WD)

I have to say, it was certainly easier to count up the Mad Gear bits I actually used, rather than count (the cost) of all the new parts I bought - not least the body and chassis kits of course.

However, by researching and shopping online, I like to think I managed to strike a good balance between overall cost and quality... and certainly some of the most expensive items in a build like this (axles, suspension links and tyres for example - plus the electronics) were usable from the original donor - which only cost $160 USD originally, so it was still more affordable to do it this way, even if the complete vehicle is now considerably more expensive.

Were I do do something similar again (indeed I am already with Desmond the 2.2 Hilux of course), then I would also replace the rather slack suspension links with proper ball-jointed rods, and as I mention above, with two strips of weights in each front wheel, it really needs a stronger steering servo too - which I fear is exacerbated with the chassis mounted location.

Ultimately of course, were I chasing true 'scale' authenticity*, then I'd also choose tyres with a more realistic/branded tread pattern, and also axles that aren't quite so 'heavy duty' looking - however, I can justify that to a degree since if this were a 1:1 Land Rover, those tyres would be around 47" in diameter - so would need something a lot more heavy duty than original Land Rover size axles to stop things going bang!

*And technically I should perhaps use some kind of coil-over shocks, or even separate coil springs and dampers as per the 1:1 Defender.

That's all for now - any questions, then do ask away of course!

 

Jenny x

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am so impressed with this D90 build. Don't think it can be beat ... not in a thousand years...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Only4Fun said:

Kelly says "Hi Jack. Lovin' the new wheels Bro' x"  :D

20170810_162441_Snapseed.jpg

Ha ha - excellent! Great to see her again!

Jx

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7 December 2017 at 9:56 AM, Geehawk said:

I am so impressed with this D90 build. Don't think it can be beat ... not in a thousand years...

Thank you Geehawk, I certainly consider it the most accomplished model I've built, so far...

Now I'm back in the UK I plan to get to work on my own crawler project again: Desmond the 2.2 (which has a similar chassis but with 4-wheel steering and a Toyota HiLux cab) and try and make it more scale in a similar fashion...

Plus there is my perpetual back-burner project the SRB Cage Racer - which is about to get a huge injection of scale detailing and parts!

Stand by!

Jenny x

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/15/2017 at 11:52 PM, JennyMo said:

part 4. Interior detailing.

 

 

i-bdFFJjd-X2.jpg

photo. Taking a leaf out of the 1:1 Land Rover handbook, some scale checker-plate would make the perfect interior floor.

 

 

 

Hi, may I ask where you got the diamond plate material? I  would like some to line my styrene truck bed but so far have only been able to find very small scaled sheets for model railway builds. That looks a lot bigger. Thanks. Impressive builds, by the way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Ronnyhotdog said:

Hi, may I ask where you got the diamond plate material? I  would like some to line my styrene truck bed but so far have only been able to find very small scaled sheets for model railway builds. That looks a lot bigger. Thanks. Impressive builds, by the way.

Hi Ronny' - I bought it from a model shop in the USA, and unfortunately I don't have the packet any more so can't tell you the scale... however, I want to say it could have been as small as 1:24th, I'm not sure? I know there us a UK seller on eBay that has a double diamond version in that scale - might be worth a go?

Sorry I can't be of more help...

Jenny x

ps. Thank you for your kind words, and likewise - I can't wait to see your Unimog with the wooden box bed (and the styrene long-bed version too of course!)

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a quick update - I'm back in the US for a few weeks, so I thought I'd finish off a couple of details that were bugging me with this build... the first was to swap the drag link for a longer one (made from rod-ends and 6mm diameter link - to match the main steering track-rod):

i-8WKQqPW-XL.jpg

This was primarily to try and increase the leverage on the steering by mounting the servo 180° and using the longer arm - however, I fear I'm still going to have to swap the 9Kg Mad-Gear servo for a better quality/stronger 20Kg+ version*. There will be nothing of the Mad-Gear left soon!

*EDIT. this was done soon after too.

 

The other job was a cosmetic detail - although as anyone who's owned a Land Rover will tell you, a decent spanner [wrench] is essential to have with you at all times!

i-9VVz7Rr-XL.jpg

photo. of course, Jack has got himself a LEGO spanner!

 

And one final addition to the load-bed was a dirty milk crate full of oily blue shop-towels... yes, that's real blue paper towel, cut into inch squares - although the 'oil' is watered down paint rather than real oil (although to be truly authentic, a few drips of some old engine oil would be ideal - if a bit smelly perhaps?) 

i-gd3CSfP-XL.jpg

photo. these 3D-printed milk crates are available in a variety of colours from an eBay seller in the USA.

 

Hope you like the latest additions!

Jenny x

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Always amazed by your work JennyMo, thanks for sharing with us.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/10/2018 at 7:44 PM, PoormanRC said:

WOW!!!! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏B)

And I mean that! So much so that I want to copy at least most of it!! :P  I've seen those Frames for quite some time, but was always hesitant. You've just convinced me.  For both my POS HG P402, and a Crawler, a lot like this!

LOVE the underhood mounted Motor.i like doing Detailed Engine Bays. What reduction is the Planetary Gearbox? All I'm finding is 5:1 reduction.

~ Carmine 💥

Hi Carmine - yes, as I recall the gearbox was around that sort of reduction - certainly with the original 70T motor it was running much too slowly, so I swapped it for a 35T and now it's still slow, but scale in speed for crawling and running between 'sections' if you see what I mean.

for info. My new project (based on a Wrangler body) will also use one of these gearboxes, and I might go for a 27T or even 23T motor to give it more trail speed. I think those planetary gearboxes are designed to use more conventional speed motors?

Jx

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just another quick update before I dive into my brand new build...

On arriving back in the US last week, there was a stack of parts waiting for me courtesy of my latest ebay melt-down (honestly, I do want to support the local Hobby store, but they never seem to have what I want - other than some wonderfully scale tyres I have to say)...

I'd ordered some of the genuine aluminium scale checker-plate (the Hot Racing version, not RC4WD) for my new build, and knew there would be enough left over to update/upgrade the panels I'd put on Lisa's Defender too:

i-gtjT2Gg-XL.jpg

photo. Before: plastic checker-plate covered in aluminium foil tape...

 

i-7bHWpDM-XL.jpg

photo. After: new panels in genuine aluminium - slightly better detailing, plus should weather/oxidise nicely over time.

 

I also thought the bonnet could do with an update:

i-8XpKnbt-XL.jpg

photo. Before: scabby hood...

 

i-f6JVZjB-XL.jpg

photo. After: pukka diamond-plate panel!

 

I also took the opportunity to replace the internally sprung shocks/dampers with some coil-overs, that look more like traditional Land Rover front struts:

i-gMtHcC4-XL.jpg

Although these look more authentic for a Land Rover, they seem to be a lot stiffer than the original internal-sprung shocks, and also the two-stage coil-overs I fitted more recently as an experiment (they worked really well, but were a bit blingy for this build, plus the preload ring was very close to the axle casings which was not ideal)...

 

I'll reserve judgement on these new shocks until they've bedded in - they still appear to have the same amount of overall travel, they just struggle to flex quite as readily/realistically as I would like:

i-TMbTZV3-XL.jpg

i-gcr6dbJ-XL.jpg

photo. I added a few subtile stickers on the rear window too.

 

I hope you like the latest mods... stand-by for what Jack's dad has been up to in the workshop soon!

 

Jenny x

 

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, it seems I'm juggling two projects at the same time again... work is progressing on my ebaYJ 'Daydream B'leafer', but at the same time has having the styrene and Araldite out, I thought I'd also have a go at addressing a couple of things that had been bugging me after my recent updates to the D90 (see the post above from the end of last year)...

First of all - in the interests of overall 'performance', I elected to revert to the internally sprung 100mm shocks I'd fitted originally - as these are so plush and offer just the right amount of static sag, making it crawl very realistically even if it does crab a bit with torque twist on a flat surface.

The other thing I wanted to do - not least having been inspired by the 1:10 scale Warn 8274 winch I'd bought for the YJ, together with a stinger style winch bumper - was to modify the front end of the Defender and lose the US 'air-conditioning' shape radiator panel, and give it more of a traditional clam-shell bonnet lip:

i-zDxrjTp-XL.jpg

photo. Dr Dremel performed the initial surgery...

 

i-RW2rwNm-XL.jpg

i-dWWtSTB-XL.jpg

photo. Assistant surgeon Isopon helped to tidy everything up a bit...

 

i-jFwtqrh-XL.jpg

photo. ...before nurse Sandy McSandpaperface smoothed everything into a tidy bonnet-lip.

 

i-mXjTBnb-XL.jpg

photo. nice!

I then took the Dremel to the front bumper I'd bought (initially for the Jeep, but may well look at something a bit different for that installation now), as I felt it's profile worked particularly well with the snub-nose Defender bonnet:

i-qfVWNHQ-XL.jpg

photo. I cut off the original bumper chassis mounts (which are not actually wide enough to fit these ebay 'Gelande' style alloy chassis), and shaped the remaining bracket to follow the profile of the alloy chassis rails...

 

i-bJBZss2-XL.jpg

photo. recessing it as far back (towards the servo) as I could to offer minimal overhang...

This way, the winch mounting plate can be sandwiched between the chassis and the winch itself using the four [winch] mounting bolts, which ought to be plenty strong enough! However, I'm also tempted to try my hand at brazing/silver-soldering and actually attach the winch-bumper assembly permanently to the chassis itself - I think that would look even more realistic?

cont.

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cont.

Initially I did consider re-fitting the snub-nose grill panel I'd created (by mounting the original headlights in what was the original radiator panel) under the lip of the new bonnet, but my heart was really set on fitting a winch* on to this vehicle too now - so fabricated a simple nose panel for the existing engine bay:

*note. There is not enough room below the bonnet lip (and not enough money in my Paypal account) to fit another Warn 8274 winch, so instead I've ordered a far more affordable Warn 9.5CTi model instead - the pukka RC4WD version, since it also comes with neat decals and a little red hook strap - and these things are important you know!

i-TkWGfQV-XL.jpg

photo. note I also shortened the original engine-bay side panels by about 5mm (to give clearance for the winch), so this new panel is directly in front of the steering servo now.

 

i-d9qdNHd-XL.jpg

photo. just primered for now... not sure if I'll be able to source some proper Land Rover 'Arles Blue' on this side of the pond*.

*actually I should - from a dealer at least, since it transpires that Arles Blue was also known as both Windjammer and Pacific blue, and was used on NAS D90s.

EDIT 6/2/19. I visited a local LR dealer today - they want $45 for a tester size pot of the stuff! (it would need to be mixed) - so I may have to look at an alternative finish, at least until I can decant some of my original Arles Blue I bought back in the UK and mule it over in a pot sometime later this year ;o)

 

i-sc69TtM-XL.jpg

photo. the original headlight surrounds will still fit the new grill panel - but unfortunately there is now not enough room behind for the actual headlamp buckets to fit in front of the steering servo... plus having a winch is going to be cooler anyway ;o)

 

What I will do is ultimately incorporate a pair of 18mm spot lights as alternative headlights - either on each side of the engine bay (if there is enough tyre clearance on full lock and compression) or more likely mounted either side of the winch on the bumper itself.

cont.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cont.

Finally for now (while I wait for the postman), the other thing I wanted to address was how the interior was secured to the main body-shell - currently using strips of duct-tape and a general interference fit against the chassis (which I was never particularly happy with, since the top of the door trims didn't line up properly with the window apertures)...

So with the body off, I removed the interior and fabricated a styrene bracket to mount the two parts together at the correct height:

i-rRLwG2V-XL.jpg

i-SVvgxTZ-XL.jpg

i-NmWKmpX-XL.jpg

i-GzPNnBv-XL.jpg

While at the rear, it was simple enough to just drill a pair of holes though the bulkhead and into the seat bases:

i-c9TPHVN-XL.jpg

This will allow the interior to be removed as required (secured using Tamiya self-tapping screws), but held far more securely now.

 

Once the winch is fitted I'll update this thread (and my showroom) with some new detail photos of all the latest modifications... and I fear a working Hi-Lift jack will also find it's way onto this build too in the near future...

i-5gpbvXP-XL.jpg

photo. As you can see, I've already added a few more window stickers!

 

More soon!

Jenny x

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could only wish to have half of the skill set you possess. Absolutely incredible work!  Second to none!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/4/2019 at 4:37 PM, neverfollow said:

I could only wish to have half of the skill set you possess. Absolutely incredible work!  Second to none!

You're very kind!

I hope that by sharing my ideas and techniques, that it inspires others to go 'beyond the box-art' so to speak...

Jenny x

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh yeah... that's what I'm talkin' about!

i-2bdKCvC-XL.jpg

Thank you mister postman!

Jx

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a quick update to this build too (juggling both my Jeep and this Land Rover at the same time these days) - I found a place online that could mix me some official Land Rover Arles Blue (note, the paint code is LRC424 if anyone is interested), and the can arrived earlier this week - so it was time to prep the front end again:

i-bjLR5LM-XL.jpg

photo. Axial [5mm LED] round lamp housings - will have the Lucas style orange lenses glued on like it did with the rear lights.

 

Rather than compromise with some odd shaped headlights, I decided to simply fit a pair of [working] indicators/running lights in the front panel and utilise the new bull-bar as a mount for a pair of 18mm spot-lamps instead...

i-NLbk3xP-XL.jpg

photo. My attempt/s to braise/solder these tabs onto the tube failed miserably - so super-glue and then Araldite was ultimately employed.

 

i-RrJNHL9-XL.jpg

photo. Red-oxide primer as a base layer before salt and satin black paint... will be finished with orange 'rust' Tamiya dry powder to properly represent corrosion at various welded joints... note. being a steel bar, this ought to naturally rust once it gets scratched too.


i-NmtZjdc-XL.jpg

photo. Axial [white] LEDs are bright! - damped down with Tamiya translucent orange on the bulbs and inside the lenses too.

 

i-9hBJsSF-XL.jpg

photo. It's almost as if they are made of metal - 'aluminium' coloured paint used as an undercoat on the bonnet and engine bay panels - weathering effect will give the appearance of bare metal revealed under any chipped blue paint.

Right, time for some salt!

Jenny x

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok then, this really is very close to finished now (erm, well other than maybe changing the original Mad-Gear axles for something ultimately more scale - that's a project for another time though ;o)

A few more details I've incorporated:

i-Sr69QK7-XL.jpg

photo. a rather boring photo I know, but I've used real under-seal (rubberised black paint) for the inside of the rear wheel-arches... I know some people also use bed-liner paint for this sort of thing, but I felt the texture of the rubberised paint would be better for 1:10 scale.

 

i-zW8CKR8-XL.jpg

photo. front shackle pins replaced with M3 set-screws (cut down to 9mm)

 

i-d4LHsMq-XL.jpg

photo. the winch-bumper suitably rusted, and 18mm Axial lamps (with PIAA grilles) fitted as headlights.

 

i-jVM3f2v-XL.jpg

photo. they work!

 

i-LHWj9RR-XL.jpg

photo. tidying up the engine-bay wiring routing - easier access to the Receiver plugs and also the rear light connector for when removing the body-shell (note. the four front lights stay connected to the chassis/engine bay now of course).

 

i-hS7C33K-XL.jpg

photo. a neat trick I thought - a winch hook retainer created with a length of [servo] wire crimped in the end of a bullet connector.

 

So I suppose I'd better get the body remounted and take some photos of it all together eh?

Jenny x

 

 

 

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK then!

First of all, a couple of Californian sunshine shots (now it's finally stopped raining these past few weeks!)

i-3sfW9Hg-XL.jpg

i-87btdbf-XL.jpg

Having bought an expensive aerosol can of Arles Blue ($37 inc. shipping!) - I took the opportunity to blow over the cab footwells/bulkhead too, along with the engine bay - where I added salt to the previous corrosion areas in an effort to preserve the deteriorated paint finish there...

 

It turns out the winter sun was a little harsh to get some good detail shots outside, so it was back into the 'studio' (that is a cardboard box used as a spray booth on a bench in the garage ;o)

i-T2sSsgM-XL.jpg

photo. new snub-nose look - this cheap Chinese made winch-bumper [which I originally bought for the Jeep build] turned out to be the perfect size and shape for the Defender front end.

As I mentioned above, rather than try to incorporate the original headlights (the buckets would no longer fit anyway) or try to squeeze an alternative under the new bonnet lip while clearing the Warn winch, I elected to just put running-light/turn-signals on the engine bulkhead, and mount a pair of large spot-lights to the bull-bar instead.

note. the metal 'Defender' badge has been reinstated too.

 

i-Jh2Hr4N-XL.jpg

photo. rust effect using a red-oxide base layer, then wetting and adding salt where I want the paint to flake, then spraying the top coat - in this instance satin black.

The winch is still a bit shiny of course, but it's likely to get a suitable layer of dust (and even mud) once the revised truck get's it maiden voyage in the dirt. I love the fact that RC4WD include a spring catch on the winch hook, and that the rollers on the fairlead actually rotate too!

note. also, currently the winch is not wired up to actually work - I hope to address this at the same time as wiring up the 8274 on the Jeep build, using a remote key-fob. However, while I've designed the Jeep underpinnings to acommodate two full-size stick pack batteries, the Defender only has space for a single pack, so winch use will have to be sparing I feel.

 

cont.

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cont.

i-FtdXV3N-XL.jpg

photo. so this is the stance on the original internal-sprung 100mm shocks, with the new front end - plenty of droop travel.

 

i-DHwqM8V-XL.jpg

photo. a few more stickers on the rear end...

 

i-TMX5q3x-XL.jpg

photo. Axle articulation is still impressive for a relatively short* wheelbase (275mm)

*Technically that works out at 108 inches in 1:1 scale of course - so 15" longer than a real D90 (which actually has a 93" wheelbase) - although I fear some kind of stretch would be needed on a Ninety running 47" tyres anyway!

 

i-xkfNVDf-XL.jpg

photo. Jack is still happy, toking on his dooby at the wheel ;o)

Right, it's time to update my showroom with a few more alternative shots - then finally get back to work on the Jeep!

More soon!

Jenny x

 

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...