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Sammo

FF01 FRP Speed Run Build

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On 10/27/2017 at 12:28 AM, Juls1 said:

So I’ve been bidding against you on ff01 bits? Haha. Have a look at my restoration build in the vintage forum. I’m almost done with it. Last unintended part is in the post right now!

for reference you could have used tamiya cc01 cvd’s (universals) they drop straight in. Cc01 knuckles work too if you want some black plastic ones or to source alloy units.

if you replace the upper arms with adjustable ones then you’ll come across the issue of flexy lower arms that cause the caster to change dramatically when the suspension compresses. So really adjustable upper arms come with the need for alloy lower arms. “Or” you’ll need tech racing stabilizers. 

I have a rear tech racing stabilizing setup NIP I’m probably not going to use. E633EACA-1521-432F-A461-9D4D5ED25B35.jpeg.386ea322cf18d923cda6770ad467c7ba.jpeg

 

I can’t remember if I ever messaged you about this. Do you still have it?

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12 minutes ago, Sammo said:

I’ve now got 6 (I think!) FF01 Rolling chassis’ haha! Every time one comes up at a reasonable price I end up buying it! The Tamiya hop ups are so expensive for it these days though which is why I’ve had to branch away to GPM parts instead. 

I’ve got most of the parts to build an FF02 and I’ve just bought an FF03 so I’ll have the set hehe. 

So what are your plans on the FF03? Would you convert it to an EVO version with upright front shocks?

It's good that there are still aftermarket parts available for the FF01. But like you said, they are very expensive now compared to what they were valued before. It's also nice to see some upgrade parts like the aluminum C-bubs, suspension arms, front and rear knuckles, rear shock mounts available because Tamiya didn't make them.

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1 hour ago, Nicadraus said:

So what are your plans on the FF03? Would you convert it to an EVO version with upright front .

The FF03 will be built using every possible hop up (some Tamiya, some not) that I can lay my hands on. I’ve already spent more on hop ups than the actual kit cost me :lol:

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5 hours ago, Sammo said:

The FF03 will be built using every possible hop up (some Tamiya, some not) that I can lay my hands on. I’ve already spent more on hop ups than the actual kit cost me :lol:

It usually ends that way with stock Tamiya kits. Upgrades will cost more than the kit itself.

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I managed to get a bit more done last night :) 

I got my GPM front knuckles fitted. They’re a good fit apart from the driveshaft has some forward and backward movement which it didn’t have in the plastic knuckles. I tried adding a rubber ring into the drive cup but it’s too fat and I then can’t bolt the knuckle in!

BA92C754-FF3A-40E6-8764-CECB915CB919_zps

I also made some new upper arms for the rear. I decided there was a bit too much camber going on so made the new ones a little longer. 

029FB0B6-8F5E-43E7-A628-A4FCD4B6646A_zps

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Then I got the body back on to assess the situation. Much better :)

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****! I really envy your FF01. I'd use this thread as a guide when I start getting parts for mine.

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Blimey, it’s been a while since I updated this thread!

I haven’t done anything to this car for ages. A serious lack of funds, having to take on a second job and general lack of motivation have meant it’s been sat on my desk gathering dust for months!

Thankfully I had a day off work today. The plan was to do things to my actual car, however it started to pour with rain after a few hours so I had to come indoors and find something to do instead. I decided it was the FF01’s turn to have some more work carried out :) 

 

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10 hours ago, Juls1 said:

Did those parts ever show up? 

They did indeed. Thanks for sending them so quickly :)

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Ok, so yesterday I decided to have a go at fitting the Tech Racing Rear Stabiliser Kit that I bought from @Juls1 very recently :) 

At the last update the rear of the FF01 was looking like this;

029FB0B6-8F5E-43E7-A628-A4FCD4B6646A_zps

Although this worked the negative camber was quite severe plus the angle of the rear tie rods was causing movement in the rear wheels. I was hoping the Stabiliser kit would sort this out. 

I forgot to take a picture of the complete kit, however here’s the label :) 

224A89DB-5095-4FBA-8BF3-552D5DCDA5A3_zps

And the appalling instructions! Aside from the fact they’re in a language I don’t speak I also reckon that the bottom half is missing :lol:

28AE2857-AF0E-4F72-8B09-11DF999C1E7F_zps

Anyway, I cracked on and pretty quickly figured out what went where. I also found a couple of pictures online of this kit fitted which helped a lot. Annoyingly it soon became apparent that to fit this you had to relocate the rear shocks, otherwise they would foul the Stabiliser bars. Seeing as I don’t have the materials to fabricate new shock mounts I thought I’d at least use the rear tie rods and brace bar from the kit until I can sort out something for the bars :) 

Annoyingly most of the screws had pretty much welded themselves into the rear shock tower. It was a cheap Chinese part with badly cut threads in every hole. I ended up stripping the heads off a couple of screws so decided to cut my losses and replace it with the original plastic rear shock tower. 

With the plastic shock tower fitted I got on with building the rear tie rods and getting them and the brace bar fitted. 

921C0255-B63F-42C1-877D-9B5140D3369A_zps

E4A50A8C-75E5-4CD4-BC6F-D9B794B2C7A2_zps

Amazingly just by having those bits fitted it’s eliminated a lot of the movement from the rear wheels which is great. The tie rods being the correct length have also meant I could calm the negative camber down a bit!

Once that lot was fitted I made up some adjustable tie rods for the front using leftovers. 

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With all that done I’m now pretty much satisfied with the chassis so it’s time to start getting the electrics in ready for a test run. The Motor has been fitted for quite a while so I thought I’d solder some terminals onto it. 

208E28A1-3105-4CB0-8388-6D119963421C_zps

Then I slipped on the extension cables. 

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By now it was bed time so I refitted the body to make sure nothing had changed (which it hadn’t). 

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So that’s the end of another productive day. Next is to fit the ESC, buy some 3S battery packs and take it for a shake down run :)

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Looking good, can’t wait to see what speeds you squeeze out of it. 

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Once again I’ve not touched this in months! I’ve also realised that it’s been two years since I started building this and I’ve still not powered it up :lol: Well I still haven’t but this afternoon I got a couple of hours free to at least fit the electrics and tidy the wiring hehe. 
 

In an effort to just get it moving under its own steam I’ve fitted an LRP speed controller that I bought a year or so back. It’ll be man enough for the motor that I’ve fitted and I can concentrate on further upgrades once it’s up and running :) 

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Potentially I’ll get another spare hour tomorrow evening so I’ll get a battery charged and see what happens :) Fingers crossed we’ll have some movement. 

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Managed another half hour today :)

I got a battery charged up and had a look to see what’s what. 

Well it runs :) I guess I need to get it on the floor and see how it moves under it’s own steam! I’m scared haha!

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What a nice car! The black wheels really look quite nice too. its no wonder your scared to drive it with all the fancy parts. I think your gear mesh might be set too close because the wheels stop quickly after the throttle is applied. I do not have any experience with this chassis which that may be normal, just thought id point my observations. Is the ESC setup with a drag brake? that could be what I am seeing too. 

Also I would suggest soldering the wires directly onto the motor. The bullet connectors do stick out and could be vulnerable to shocks, or impacts. 

Awesome car and been enjoying the build. Its a shame that the FWD TC chassis havent taken off like 4wd has. I find it very cool to have the drive line match the body of the car. 

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On 10/27/2017 at 12:28 AM, Juls1 said:

So I’ve been bidding against you on ff01 bits? Haha. Have a look at my restoration build in the vintage forum. I’m almost done with it. Last unintended part is in the post right now!

for reference you could have used tamiya cc01 cvd’s (universals) they drop straight in. Cc01 knuckles work too if you want some black plastic ones or to source alloy units.

if you replace the upper arms with adjustable ones then you’ll come across the issue of flexy lower arms that cause the caster to change dramatically when the suspension compresses. So really adjustable upper arms come with the need for alloy lower arms. “Or” you’ll need tech racing stabilizers. 

I have a rear tech racing stabilizing setup NIP I’m probably not going to use. E633EACA-1521-432F-A461-9D4D5ED25B35.jpeg.386ea322cf18d923cda6770ad467c7ba.jpeg

 

I’ve been looking for the restoration build thread you mentioned in this post from 2017 @Juls1, I’m looking for some info on rear stabilisers for the FF01, and struggling to find much on the web about the aftermarket options which were made by the likes of Rainbow and Tech Racing. Can you help?

Oh, and I found this for sale, but slightly different part number (TFF-21 vs. your TFF-2) so wondered if you knew what the difference is?

F777A501-F000-4797-A87C-DB453E9A8127.jpeg

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5 hours ago, futureworks said:

I’ve been looking for the restoration build thread you mentioned in this post from 2017 @Juls1, I’m looking for some info on rear stabilisers for the FF01, and struggling to find much on the web about the aftermarket options which were made by the likes of Rainbow and Tech Racing. Can you help?

Oh, and I found this for sale, but slightly different part number (TFF-21 vs. your TFF-2) so wondered if you knew what the difference is?

F777A501-F000-4797-A87C-DB453E9A8127.jpeg

If you’re searching make sure you have the time filter set on All time. 
 

The thing to understand about these tech racing “stabilisers” is they are not sway bars. 
 

they just help the caster and camber stay the same throughout the suspension travel because the arms and other parts flex like rubber during suspension movement. 

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