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Posted

My first hobby level RC was a Tamiya Blackfoot, this would have been around 1990.  Recently I decided to pull the remains of my Blackfoot out of the attic and to see what usable remains could be recycled into a new build. (As it turned out, not much was left.)

After cruising the net for a few days, reading about the Sand Scorcher reissue, then seeing VW Beetle bodied ORV chassis conversions, I thought… “…maybe I’ll build one of those.” At some point I stumbled by the SRB F150 and convinced myself to build a tribute truck to blue and white F150, but use the ORV chassis and suspension.

I began with a new Frog/Brat chassis tree and a complete hardware baggie set for the Brat.  I decided to my tribute from loose parts from re-release kits.

These first photos are when I finished the basic chassis, there were no body mount, shocks or functioning gear case.

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Posted

To keep costs at bay, I decided to build/rebuild a gear case using my Blackfoot/Monster Beetle/Mud Blaster gears instead of the Frog/Brat version. For reliability I swapped to full ball bearings throughout the build.  For suspension, I used the Blackfoot forward rear shock mounts and an aluminum aftermarket front shock mount.  Tamiya CVA oil filed units were employed front (mini set) and rear (short set).  At the time, I did not know the height or space available for my front body mount to body, so I was conservative with the length of the front shocks.  In hindsight, I could have went with taller mounts and shocks.

For body mounts I extended the stock Brat unit about 12mm in height and sectioned a pair of stock rear Blackfoot mount about 30mm in the center and jointed the remaining pieces with scrap PVC and the magic liquid stuff.

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Posted

My goal is to have a vintage look, so final color may be Tamiya TS-44 with white trim.  I debated whether or not to keep the bed mounted roll bar, I decided to keep it… but paint it white like the cover.  Power may come by a vintage Kyosko Mega motor from my original Blackfoot.

Body work and electronics are on my list of “things to do.”

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Posted
On 11/7/2017 at 3:10 PM, Frog Jumper said:

I want to say AmPro makes a 3D printed rear body mount exactly for this purpose...  

Yeah, here it is:  https://www.shapeways.com/product/PGE83PBWD/tamiya-58038-f150-rear-body-mount?optionId=58393537

Terry

 

I have the AmPro rear mounts.  The green AmPro promo truck helped to lead me to this project.  When I was cleaning one of the pin holes, I popped the top off the AmPro mount... so then I measured the AmPro mounts and sectioned a pair of stock Blackfoot mounts to a similar height. AmPro mounts are reasonably priced and great for a project like this.

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Posted

I began bodywork on the Blackfoot re-release shell. I am attempting to removed the bed mounted antenna hole and to mold the sunroof panel into the roof. Still needs additional work.

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Posted

I was going to run a Hobbywing 1060 ESC, but had trouble with it. My ESC had one setting, not three regardless of pin settings/usage and it was recommended that I swap the motor wires. For whatever reason I was not happy with my $13.00 ESC, so I bought a new Tamiya TBLE-02S as well as a GT Tuned motor. Everything works great now!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The bodywork consisted on Tamiya White Putty, Duplicolor Filler Primer and Tamiya Fine Primer.  My desire was to ride the body of the sunroof and bed mounted antenna hole.  I was able to re-texture the bed cover using the Filler/Primer with no post spray prep.

The bed cover and Blackfoot roll bar were painted Tamiya Pure White.  I also located a new vintage FORD logo tailgate to assist in the look I am going after.

I had a store coupon that was valid for modeling paints, so I am going to try Testors metallic lacquer on the main body panels.

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Posted

For my driver, I read a few tutorials on how best to paint these figures.  I decided to use a variety water-based craft paints, since there were a tub of colors already at the house.  This was my first attempt at creating shadows and washes.

The Tamiya Frog sourced helmet head was painted with leftover Rust-Oleum enamel (lime green).

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  • Like 2
Posted

I painted the truck using Testors One Coat Lacquer.  I chose this paint since it was convenient for me to purchase and discounted 50%.  I sprayed the hue over Tamiya gray primer.

Not a perfect paint job and the filler in the sunroof seam did shrink.

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Posted

I then worked on my reproduction decals from Canada.  I switched up decal location from SRB box art and included a few new logos are well.

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Posted

I like the look of white letter tires, so I decided to try the white ink pen trick on mine.  I used a gelly roll pen from a local craft store.

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Posted

Wheels mounted with four coats of Testors "Wet Look" Clear lacquer over paint and decals.  A few specs of dust and fiber landed in the clear, but looks acceptable.

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  • Like 8
Posted

Great looking truck - nice job!

I've had mixed results with that Testors lacquer. On one body, over Dupli-Color primer, it cracked and crazed, but over bare plastic, it seemed to work well. Not really "one coat," though. I was afraid it would pool up if I sprayed it heavy enough to cover in one coat, so I did two light coats.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
43 minutes ago, markbt73 said:

Great looking truck - nice job!

I've had mixed results with that Testors lacquer. On one body, over Dupli-Color primer, it cracked and crazed, but over bare plastic, it seemed to work well. Not really "one coat," though. I was afraid it would pool up if I sprayed it heavy enough to cover in one coat, so I did two light coats.

I will agree.  It took about 2.5 cans of Testors paint and 2.5 cans of Testors clear.  I Googled the paint before I purchased, I read one modeling forum that had the comment of "'One Coat' means a separate clear in not necessary."  I decided to try this paint since I had a gaggle of 50% off coupons. ^_^  I sprayed the paint over a combination of Tamiya and Dupli-Color primer.

I sprayed my body outside, what I found was I had to be up on the body with the can and move my arm slow to have the paint lay smooth.  When I did the 10 inches back method, I had a sandpaper texture finish.

Photos of it sitting in the sunlight.

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  • Thanks 1
Posted

I continued reviewing tutorials on how to paint these Tamiya drivers.  I used water-based acrylic craft paint for the face and helmet trim.  Mixing water and brown into the flesh color to create tones.

Some have said my driver looks scared. :lol:

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Posted

I'm not sure if this is how all Frogs/Brats are (were), but I felt the front suspension and steering was wobbly and loose.   So, I drilled out the knuckle arms holes to 6mm and placed four step bearing (3x6x2.5 mm) in each hole.  Then used stainless machine screws to hold steering knuckles to the bearings.

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  • Like 3
Posted
On 12/2/2017 at 8:29 AM, speedy_w_beans said:

Great truck, and I really like this ball bearing mod!

Thank you.  Here is a photo of the parts.

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Posted

I updated how I mounted the front Tamiya CVA shocks.  I was experiencing minor tire rub on the lower bolt heads, so I shortened the lower spacers as much as I could without arm interference and picked up a bag of Kyosho 5MM pivot ball mounts for the shocks.

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  • Like 3

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