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novicelad

Removing the little plastic nibs/nubs whatever you call them

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Hi all

Whats your techniques for removing the plastic nib left over from the moldings on parts? 

I usually cut them off with a side cutter then do the last bit with a knife, is there a special tool?

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There probably is a special tool but I do the same as you, side cutter and leave a bit on the part, then a knife or if its important to have perfect my wifes nail file. I didn't use a file for my TT02B's but did quite a bit on the TA07. I pretty much copied the techniques that Effigy showed in his TA07 build thread

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tam-74093-2.jpg

Modeller's versions do the job better, I find. If I were truly detail-obsessed, I would probably follow up with a knife and file, but with careful use I get the flush cut that I need on the parts. Static models do get a file afterwards, though.

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I have modellers flush cut side cutters, then x-acto knife for any flashing, then needle file finished off with 1200-7000 grit wet n dry through to micromesh.

Hmmm maybe that's why I take so long to finish off my projects and kits. 

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Side-cutters to detach the parts, then an X-Acto knife to carefully trim off the excess and slice through my finger.

58594_2.jpg

  • Haha 1

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1 hour ago, StrokerBoy said:

Side-cutters to detach the parts, then an X-Acto knife to carefully trim off the excess and slice through my finger.

58594_2.jpg

Wasn't sure whether to do a like, lol, tears or thanks but went with a lol in the end. :D

I've lost count of repeated self stabbings. Least with the X-Acto knives you know they are proper sharp and quality steel blades so less chance of an infection.

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Ignoring the fresh wound in my photo, you'll notice several scabs and nicks from the previous steps in the build.  Next time I should probably get some chainmail gloves like a butcher wears... :unsure:

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2 hours ago, StrokerBoy said:

Ignoring the fresh wound in my photo, you'll notice several scabs and nicks from the previous steps in the build.  Next time I should probably get some chainmail gloves like a butcher wears... :unsure:

Or an appropriate adult 😉

I’m on my third blade wound from my recent trimming exercise.

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23 hours ago, StrokerBoy said:

Side-cutters to detach the parts, then an X-Acto knife to carefully trim off the excess and slice through my finger.

58594_2.jpg

i have lost count how many time i have done the same thing most of my manuals have blood over them .

i tend to use a pair of snips then trim to a flush with one of them single edge blades 

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I've got the Tamiya Basic tool set. 

https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/tools-accessories-80/tools-74000/basic-tool-set-74016

The side cutters that come with it leave almost no plastic nubs, if none at all. Hold the blades flat and flush against the part you're cutting, and squeeze. 99% of the time, it's a smooth cut. The tweezers that come in the kit have also been useful, though I have not found a use for anything else in the kit. 

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The correct terminology for the plastic thing that holds the parts are called a Sprue tree.The excess plastic is called the Flash or Flashing .

Tamiya make side cutters that work great ,but just as handy for removing flash from parts once removed from the sprue are nail clippers .

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The photo of blood made me wince.   Apparently, I've got a scar right about where you got that cut. At the risk of this becoming "show your finger" thread, here is my own battle scar.  I suppose, we've all been there. 

I use a side cutter, and Olfa blades.  Much sharper and thus more controllable than X-Acto, in my opinion.  

 

5a0f5643f2975_acut.thumb.jpg.b6ac0dcdd7eb8054dd5f764b81d14677.jpg

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Side cutter and then sanding sticks. Cut the nub high as to not leave any stress marks on the plastic. Then use more coarse to fine sanding sticks. I typically will start with a 180 or 240, then go to 400 and lastly 800 grit (for best results, always sand in just ONE direction, no sawing motion). Finally a quick rub with a polishing stick. Honestly no more than a minute and a half of work per nub. If the nubs are not visible on the finished model, I just use an exacto on the nub to get it flush. I use the other method for visible parts. Tried and true technique from all the Gunpla I build. Oh, and Swarm, flashing is a thin layer of plastic that runs out between where two halve of an injection mold meet, not nubs. 

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