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Andyrt200

Silicone diff oil

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I went for the 45 putty (the sofer one) in the xtream's diff. It was a mess in there all old attempts at locking (that came loose) had damaged all the little cogs & snapped the little three pronged holder thing. Luckily fully locked diffs had stipped the splines from one side of the CC-01 & the CR-01 so I had enough good bits left from those to put all new interenals in the Xtreme's diff! 

I put a little more than the 10mm balls in & it's very stiff even with the bigger Blackfoot wheels. If I hold one wheel & try to drive a bit the motor really struggles, but can just move the other wheel. 

Its just been for its first test run & was very good. Didn't roll over on full power turns, but still didn't lose too much speed as you can when the inside wheel spins too much.  

We had the super Blackfoot out at the same time too & there were a few occasions when the almost locked diff got out when the other was left spinning one wheel. 

The Tamiya putty came quite quickly really but I'd already put the diff back together with the Ride putty (linked back up the thread) when it did. 

I will find something to try the Tamiya putty in for comparison, but will be building the G6-01 with the Ride 45 putty. I'm not sure I will ever try the Ride 70 putty! 

I've only tried one pack though it though & with a regular silver can, I'll try a sport tuned next.  

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Jup, I cleaned out the grease and oil yesterday. The Tamiya grease seems to be a good choice, and one that I can get here in Germany. So one more order it is, then.

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The wide G6-01 has had quite a few runs with the ride 45 putty in now. As you'd expect it  loosens off a little as the putty gets pushed about in the diff. It's just about completely locked when you first put it together. Its would probably be a good idea to get it bedded in / loosened off before trying to many jumps. On one of our first runs we found a football pitch full of huge mole hills, it's hard to hit them exactly central so it was landing heavily on one front wheel quite a bit & bent the new front drive shafts a bit (it actually twisted the drive shafts, so the ends don't line up any more). I think the longer drive shafts will twist more easily than short ones. 

When the truck is in the air all six wheels speed up to max rpm then as it lands the inertia from the whole drive train & the five other wheels is all fed through that one front wheel as it hits the ground, the LSD effect needs to be soft enough to cushion that enough to protect the drive shafts, but still strong enough to let it climb up things whith just one from wheel driving up the obstacle first. 

It was still feeling very stiff when I noticed the bent drive shafts, but after a good long run on tarmac it's feeling a lot more compliant now. The rears had loosened up much quicker. I guess the front had just been spinning both wheel on softer ground. 

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Thanks, Andyrt200.  

I wondered how that putty worked out.  If it can twist the drive shaft, that's good enough for me.  40g will be plenty for a dozen cars too.  

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1 hour ago, Juggular said:

Thanks, Andyrt200.  

I wondered how that putty worked out.  If it can twist the drive shaft, that's good enough for me.  40g will be plenty for a dozen cars too.  

Yes I should think you're spot on there (assuming they aren't 4x4s!) I have done 4 diffs with the hardness 45, I haven't touched the hardness 90 so compared to that think there is about 2/3 of the 45 left. 

I will try the Tamiya putty some time too, giving it a very unscientific poke it's seems more like the ride 45. 

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Hi guys, i just came across this thread. 

So any updates with regards to the Tamiya putty and Ride? 

How did those diffs hold up over time?

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On 4/23/2021 at 10:16 AM, BruiseWayn said:

Hi guys, i just came across this thread. 

So any updates with regards to the Tamiya putty and Ride? 

How did those diffs hold up over time?

I can’t remember if I ever did put the tamiya putty in anything in the end, I’d forgotten everything I’d put on this thread so thanks for finding it! 
 

The diffs them selfs have held up fine, I went for a little less in the Thundershots diffs (I may have put the tamiya putty in that). It probably would have worked fine but it has done a badword of a lot of speed runs with an eventual best top speed of 61mph however there were a lot of crashes, exploded tyres, lost drive shafts etc in that time, I guess crashing at 50mph can theoretically see the wheels ending up spinning at up to 100mph in opposite directions. So not too surprisingly most of the putty had escaped from those diffs, seemed to come out behind the drive cups though so doesn’t cause any issues just obviously much less locking effect after it’s escaped. I just put that back together with a normal brushed motor for a bit of regular bashing & it’s still running well.

I did try speed running all the cars, most didn’t get too much over 40mph & the putty stayed in fine doing that. The Xtream & Super Blackfoot diffs still have just the same amount of locking as they did after it had settle down from the first couple of runs. They don’t snap drive shafts anymore than I remember them doing before. 
 

So the in summary no ill effects at all from the diff putty, it makes a real difference in the Blackfoots having stoped them getting stuck many times.
It just a shame you can’t use it on the original Blackfoot diffs. The Super Blackfoot its an amazing basher though it just keeps taking the punishment while the original has to come in for repairs after almost bashing session!
 

The GF01 was a constant nightmare in terms of snapping Drive shafts, I built it wide with WT01 parts from new so it uses those shafts. I posted on here some time ago about that & got a good tip about different drive shafts to use it hadn’t snapped one since. It is starting to snap the middle axle out of the chassis now so has been shelved till I get round to fixing it. That’s more to do with jumping, brushes motors & the wide conversion than diff putty though I think though. 

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