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Convert Tamiya RC Mitsubishi Pajero Lowrider to a regular Pajero "jeep" for trails/light crawling.


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Posted

Just wondering what it would take to convert a Tamiya RC Mitsubishi Pajero Lowrider into a regular Pajero jeep for trail/light crawling?

Possible or just a waste of time/money?

And if you know, what items would the convertion need?

 

Thanks in advance!

Posted


I don't own any of the XC01 / CC01 Pajero kits but I'll try and help you anyway.. (I have a CC01 Toureg though)

I'm guessing that its the 58627 Mitsubishi Pajero Black Special that you have?

If so, then may I suggest looking at the manual for the 58132 Mitsubishi Pajero Metaltop wide CC01 chassis, and see what the differences are..  https://www.tamiyaclub.com/manuals.asp?cm=447

You used to be able to buy a lowride kit to convert the 58132 Pajero into a street or low ride version, so the parts you need to convert yours back may still be on the leftover parts trees in your kit..

Or instead of reading the manual, have a look at this youtube movie of someone installing a lowride kit on their CC01 and see what they had to change to install it, then reverse engineer yours..

I suspect that all you will need is some taller crawler tyres, maybe some longer shocks or shock shafts and springs and the smaller 16 tooth pinion.. I would suggest buying some aftermarket tyres though, as the Tamiya crawler tyres are very hard and offer very little traction for crawling.. It may also be worth while buying a steel pinion gear and a 35-55 turn crawler motor to slow things down for crawling..

Posted

Yes it’s possible but to make it a decent trail car, but it takes quite some work. Improve steering, damper setup, rear axle attachment best search for conversion threads on the CC01

RCcrawler.com is a good source

BFABA02B-208A-4416-BA9C-B4231290B4AB.jpeg

Posted

IME the CC01 isn't a bad trail rig out of the box - so Backlash's advice to convert back to stock spec isn't a bad start at all.

The worst part on the CC01 (IMO) is the steering system.  There are now various aftermarket parts.  A quick search for "CC01 steering upgrade" should help with that.  Best done early in the life of the chassis as the stock steering system can wear the chassis, meaning your upgrade part has slop as soon as you fit it.

Aftermarket tyres are a good shout.  Something soft and sticky with a good size sidewall to increase clearance.  You might need to modify the Pajero arches if you go too aggressive with the sidewall.

Locking both diffs will help traction on uneven ground.  You'll lose some stability under turns but it's a trade-off worth making if you're going on the trails.

After that you'll have to start getting creative.  The "brick" under the front gets hung up easy.  You can buy an aftermarket sump guard that gives it a shallower angle so it can slide over bumps, but you can get better front-end clearance if you chop it off altogether and make up your own sump guard.  Search for "CC01 cut brick" for some ideas.

The rear links are a little flimsy and will get in a bind once you start pushing the limits of the chassis.  Complete aftermarket link kits are available, or you can make your own using aftermarket axle brackets, or you can go the full pig and make your own axle brackets too.  You can clock the axle and fit longer shocks for more clearance if you're serious about climbing rocks.

Rear link mounts get hung up easy where the screws go into the chassis.  The common solution is to fit a lowered sump that hides the link mounts but this reduces ground clearance altogether.  A trickier option, if you want to get really creative, is to relocate the links entirely to the side of the chassis rails (you'll need to beef up from inside) or inside the tub.

The best thing is you can do most of this yourself with minimal outlay - you just need hand tools and common hardware and the confidence to start hacking.  The CC01 is one of the best trucks for home-brew mods that really make a difference.

One final point - the CC01 has its limitations.  You'd have to get seriously creative with the hacksaw to take on an SCX10 or an Ascender on the rocks.  Don't expect miracles and you'll have fun.  If you just want to bounce along dirt paths, the CC01 is unparalleled, IMO :)

Posted
15 hours ago, bytestorm said:

Just wondering what it would take to convert a Tamiya RC Mitsubishi Pajero Lowrider into a regular Pajero jeep for trail/light crawling?

Possible or just a waste of time/money?

And if you know, what items would the convertion need?

The difference between Lowrider and Regular CC01 is afaik just the shortened shocks and wider smaller tyres. (Is pinion bigger?)

Put on some larger crawler tyres and longer shocks & it'll be back to normal.

Posted

Wow thanks all for the fast responses! :D Great ide to compare the manuals.. I will do that and see what I can find.

I dont own the car just yet, but the lowrider is around half the price of the regular pajero metalwide so I thought that would be the better route :)

 

Posted
17 hours ago, bytestorm said:

Wow thanks all for the fast responses! :D Great ide to compare the manuals.. I will do that and see what I can find.

I dont own the car just yet, but the lowrider is around half the price of the regular pajero metalwide so I thought that would be the better route :)

 

But don`t forget the Metaltop has the nicer ABS-Body and the lowrider the lexan body.

According to Tamiya Website these parts are included in the CC-01 lowering kit:
 

Quote

 

73mm diameter Low Profile Tires x4

Dish Wheels (Plated) x4

Inner Sponge for 4 tires

20T Pinion Gear x1

Damper Oil (#400, Yellow)

Damper Springs (White)* x4

Flanged Spacers x4

 

Regarding to this, I guess you would need different wheels, springs and pinion gear.

Posted

The tyres are TGX/BoyRacer size so they aren't that much smaller than the radials supplied with normal CC01s. (LandFreeder & Honda CRV get a slightly smaller tyre then normal too) 

Biggest change to rideheight probably from adding spacers to shorten shocks, set rough guess.

Posted
On 2017-12-19 at 12:10 AM, shenlonco said:

I personally like the CC01 chassis makes for some good challenging trailing!

bytestorm this will get your cc01 thoughts a going! :D

 

SWEEEEET! :D That looks like fun! It also looks like it has some hopups? 

On 2017-12-19 at 2:35 PM, grimlock said:

But don`t forget the Metaltop has the nicer ABS-Body and the lowrider the lexan body.

According to Tamiya Website these parts are included in the CC-01 lowering kit:
 

Regarding to this, I guess you would need different wheels, springs and pinion gear.

Oh.. hmm totally missed that one. Thanks! ABS should be a bit stronger right?

Posted

Should I take it that the Metaltop wide pajero kit is the best place to start? Or is the Landfreeder better in terms of kit parts? (i guess they both can have same bodies?)

Oh.. just realised that there are quite a few cars running the cc01.. rally sport, ford bronco, etc.. Wonder wich version is best prepared for trails/crawl?

Posted
1 hour ago, bytestorm said:

SWEEEEET! :D That looks like fun! It also looks like it has some hopups? 

Oh.. hmm totally missed that one. Thanks! ABS should be a bit stronger right?

Yea I did a few things to it , I have videos there in my CC01 youtube playlist.

Posted
59 minutes ago, bytestorm said:

Should I take it that the Metaltop wide pajero kit is the best place to start? Or is the Landfreeder better in terms of kit parts? (i guess they both can have same bodies?)

Oh.. just realised that there are quite a few cars running the cc01.. rally sport, ford bronco, etc.. Wonder wich version is best prepared for trails/crawl?

I found the longer wheelbase versions work better they can climb a steeper grade.

Posted
On 21 December 2017 at 8:39 AM, bytestorm said:

Oh.. hmm totally missed that one. Thanks! ABS should be a bit stronger right?

Hard bodies look nice but after you've expended 10 cans of paint on it, it'll get roadrashed on its first run & its topheavy to boot -_-

Lexan probably nicer for driving performance. ^_^

Posted
On 21 December 2017 at 9:41 AM, shenlonco said:

I found the longer wheelbase versions work better they can climb a steeper grade.

Less overhang at the rear?

Dunno, this yr we've finally built runners in all 3 lengths. Can't really tell any big differences by our driving... LWB might be less twitchy running on a Tarmac track at fully speed with a SportTuned, maybe.

Posted
1 hour ago, WillyChang said:

Less overhang at the rear?

Dunno, this yr we've finally built runners in all 3 lengths. Can't really tell any big differences by our driving... LWB might be less twitchy running on a Tarmac track at fully speed with a SportTuned, maybe.

I been running them since early 2000 in the mountains by me and found the long wheel base is more capable and can go more places, the short one flips over on steep climbing inclines and can't climb up rocky steep hills as good as the longer wheel base versions.

Posted

Check out my build thread for some common and simple things I did to my Pajero to make it a better runner. Things like shimming the rear axle, or replacing the steering links with better ball cups to reduce slop.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I have both pajeros, the metaltop is nice. But it’s a big job painting it, and first turn you’ll cartwheel it and stuff your paint job. In fact I think that happens to about 95% if the hardbody paj shells unless you never run it on the silver can and go straight to a 80T. (My preference is a 45T)

The metaltop body is really heavy, but the biggest issue is the weight is up high. It causes it to prematurely flip over backwards climbing steep angles, it also rolls over easier as well. If you want to drive it fast ish, it traction rolls very easily. 

In terms of durability and outright trail performance the polycarbonate shell is miles ahead. The poly shell can also more easily take larger tyres up to 100mm or so with a little trimming. The metaltop really is done at about a 90mm tyre. 

As for converting your lowride, just buy a set of the cc01 alloy shocks. And a decent tyre and wheel. That’s pretty much it. For crawling a mid priced alloy/steel beadlock wheel with plenty of weight is a great option, paired up to some sticky rc4wd tyres (they are worth the price.)

Juls

 

 

 

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