Man1c M0nk3y

Man1c’s DT03 From Buggy to Truggy.

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9 hours ago, super gripper said:

This and the others have been my go to since getting the car! Good interesting reads. 

Love the paint scheme on both of yours. 

In buggy ‘spec’ which do you prefer btw. The DT02 or the DT03?

This is probably going to end up being just for the girls and I’ll pick another up so curious to hear opinion from someone who’s used both especially when pushed in a racing/track setting. 

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In buggy spec the DT02 is better on Astro, on grass the DT03 is better. I prefer my DT03 as the truck. Paint scheme is my race colours. I have more cars done the same, my mo5, trf201xmw, racing truggy, 

Boomerwig at Dudley BD 2017.jpg

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TT01e truck Tamiya.jpg

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3 hours ago, super gripper said:

In buggy spec the DT02 is better on Astro, on grass the DT03 is better. I prefer my DT03 as the truck. Paint scheme is my race colours. I have more cars done the same, my mo5, trf201xmw, racing truggy, 

@super gripperYou want to give my 3 deg toe in uprights a try. Made a big difference to the 03 on astro in testing:

 

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3 hours ago, super gripper said:

 

In buggy spec the DT02 is better on Astro, on grass the DT03 is better. I prefer my DT03 as the truck. Paint scheme is my race colours. I have more cars done the same, my mo5, trf201xmw, racing truggy, 

 

Cheers. This DT03 will definitely be staying as a truck. I want a buggy. The DT02 (Sand Viper) appeals as it has the upgrades already that I’d do to an 03 plus I like the look better in buggy form. It’s see use on all surfaces not specific to anyone type but mainly gravel/loose dirt but grass and tarmac/pavement too. 

Mall poe in the sky anyway at the minute with current circumstances. 

28 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

@super gripperYou want to give my 3 deg toe in uprights a try. Made a big difference to the 03 on astro in testing:

 

Digital pimp at work 😂

Have you any plans to offer different degree toe settings at any point (not that I know I’d need any different!) out of curiosity. 

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48 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

@super gripperYou want to give my 3 deg toe in uprights a try. Made a big difference to the 03 on astro in testing:

 

thank you for the offer but I do not race the DT03 or the DT02

I have a TRF502x with all the goodies and a TRF201xmw and a TRF703 hybrid.

The DT cars only get used for the DT Challenge

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3 hours ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Have you any plans to offer different degree toe settings at any point (not that I know I’d need any different!) out of curiosity. 

Not at the moment, but it's pretty easy to do 1 and 2 deg versions now the 3 deg is proven.

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On 29.4.2018 at 6:57 PM, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Cheers. Hopefully not too long now. Last few bits ordered earlier. 

That shell looks brilliant. Have you anymore pictures from other angles? Who’s the shell by also. Is it a proper Tamiya shell? I have no experience so can’t place it easily.  Looks a really good fit from that angle.

Tempted to do one for myself. 

I admit it's not a proper Tamiya shell. I found it on ebay from racersparadise, meant for a touring car chassis. I cut it Baja Bug style myself. One more picture here from the back, I had to make way for the gearbox. Still the overall appearance is very "buggy" ;>).

20180428_210409.jpg

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45 minutes ago, NeonScorcher said:

I admit it's not a proper Tamiya shell. I found it on ebay from racersparadise, meant for a touring car chassis. I cut it Baja Bug style myself. One more picture here from the back, I had to make way for the gearbox. Still the overall appearance is very "buggy" ;>).

20180428_210409.jpg

Looks really good and the fact it’s not Tamiya doesn’t bother me in the slightest. I shall have to search them up and have a look. I think it looks great. 

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So I’m still waiting for the postman to bring bits and bobs to carry on with this. I did receive one part yesterday though so have done that today. 

The part in question being a GPM Racing Suspension Lower Arm Mount (DT3008). 

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Certainly different to the kit one...

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In terms of weight they are the same on my scales. The alloy one is obviously heavily cut away though...

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Did need to add an extra 0.2mm (0.5mm in total now) shim each side though to remove the for/aft movement...

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And all tucked away...

41846021061_0bf81cfe04_z.jpg

Time will tell if worth it. Should be stronger I guess. Most apparent however is how much smoother and freer it feels. Arm rotate much better/easier. 

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Well goodies arrived, just not enough 😣 Tyres and one set of inserts turned up. The other on back order so it still sits on bare wheels for now. A step closer though. 

My body posts also arrived from Shapeways though so have had a look and play with those. 

The goodies...

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Happy to say the right shape I wanted too!

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A side by side with the standard Tamiya part...

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Notice the body pin holes have also been rotated 90 deg. Will give me further clearance from the body part that’s the issue. The new mount is also longer as you can see. The Tamiya part is 80mm mine 90mm. I’m unsure yet on the exact size I need so more is better for now!

I needed between 5-10mm of step in centre to centre of the upright sections to clear the body feature that’s an issue. Decided on 10mm for safety and I’m happy to say I got my calculations right!

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So then. Have they worked?

Heres the standard posts...

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Notice the posts are to the outside of the shock screws on the tower. In this location they are in totally the wrong spot for the body I’m using.

My posts...

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They now sit inside the screw and comfortably clear the body section that’s an issue. You’ll have to take my word for it however as I’m not ready for the big reveal yet 😂

Only one negative as such as it is and that’s the square recess on the back where it attaches to the chassis. I needed it to be 6mm minimum but added a little to cover and printing discrepancies. I either got very lucky or unlucky depending on view as they must have printed perfectly so there is slight side to side play. Not an issue once srewed up though.

Once body is mounted and I’m happy I will probably redo the posts and remove any excess height and un-needed body pin holes and also reduce the square recess slightly for a snugger fit.

Speaking of the body. I cut the shell last night. Hate doing it and this was a simple one too and even using ‘proper’ lexan scissors. Body seemed tougher than the Racing Fighter to cut. Sanded all the edges and have a nice finish though so happy overall with it.

Have a rough idea of mounting but need to tape and measure up properly first then pluck up the courage to drill the body 😳 

Still need the girls to decide what colours they want to. Indecisive little sod’s!

 

 

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A little bit more progress made...well, eventually!

Took delivery of the Tamiya High Torque servo saver (51000) earlier in the week and set about fitting the other day. Hey it’s only a servo saver, how hard can it be, well...🙄

So anyone who saw my thread in the main forum will know, very as it happened!

The kit saver has a step in it (this it seems is important) the High Torque one doesn’t. 

The High Torque is listed as a hop-up for the DT03, but only in the Aqroshot manual (this is also an important part) I don’t have an Aqroshot, I’d just spotted it when looking at manuals online.

So then of I go. Used the parts I expected to be right as bar the step they looked and set up the same as the kit saver and followed the instructions with the High Torque saver. Nope. That doesn’t work. Arms too low and hit chassis and unable to connect to axles. Played around with the spacers on the servo mount. Got it better but still not 100%. Still binding at the extremes when on full lock. 

I was tired and confused and gave up. 

Brew in hand I downloaded the Aqroshot manual again to make sure I wasn’t making it all up in my head. I wasn’t, but what I did discover is that although the High Torque Saver is indeed listed it also has some separate instructions for use which is missed the first time and tbh are pretty obvious once seen 🙄 I’m blaming lack of sleep!

Anyway, to overcome the fact without the step the arm sits lower you mount the ball connectors on the underside of the arm, like so...

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Perfect. Creates another (easily solved) problem however. Set up as kit the connectors on the steering arms point opposing. One up one down...

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They now need to be both the same...

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All in and its now perfect. Plenty of clearance. 

A decent feeling upgrade too. Feels a lot stronger. 

And as a parting shot...

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Purple nuts!

Sadly the blue Tamiya ones weren’t going to work with the girls chosen colour scheme so CoreRC (CR036) to the rescue with these. 

The really observant will spot a bit of the new shell in the background. Any guesses?! 

Will get some pictures of that up soon hopefully. It needs a slight trim and tidy up first. 

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Small update, just been mad busy, had no time/energy for anything at the minute. 

Body still not sorted 🙄 Trimmed up and happy but unpainted. Girls have changed mind on colours. Luckily hadn’t ordered anything yet. 

Have fitted front tyre inserts now. 

Tweaked rear turnbuckles as they (imo) sit at an awkward angle when installed as instructed. Played around with different spacers on the gearbox side and got them sitting much cleaner/straighter. Probably irrelevant but I prefer it!

Also fitted the rear stabiliser from Tamiya 54561 set. Used the thin/red one to start and only fitted the rear one so far. From reading up and from other peoples feedback I feel that will achieve what’s desired best. Will play from there once fully up and running again. 

Added some heat shrink to the bar as read they are a tad loose and rattle about. Used 2mm iirc. 

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Was not enough though. Still very loose. So...

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Used two 6mm (m3) machine screws to secure it. Removed side to side play and rattle. Assume that’s exactly what those two holes are meant for yet no reference to them is made in the instructions. 

Going to get the electrics back in and stick the Racing Fighter body back on for now. Lost momentum with this at the minute so just going to get it back usable for the girls for the time being. 

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1 minute ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Small update, just been mad busy, had no time/energy for anything at the minute. 

Body still not sorted 🙄 Trimmed up and happy but unpainted. Girls have changed mind on colours. Luckily hadn’t ordered anything yet. 

Have fitted front tyre inserts now. 

Tweaked rear turnbuckles as they (imo) sit at an awkward angle when installed as instructed. Played around with different spacers on the gearbox side and got them sitting much cleaner/straighter. Probably irrelevant but I prefer it!

Also fitted the rear stabiliser from Tamiya 54561 set. Used the thin/red one to start and only fitted the rear one so far. From reading up and from other peoples feedback I feel that will achieve what’s desired best. Will play from there once fully up and running again. 

Added some heat shrink to the bar as read they are a tad loose and rattle about. Used 2mm iirc. 

41427857075_8982d71a10_z.jpg

Was not enough though. Still very loose. So...

27460037177_d0141bb64d_z.jpg

Used two 6mm (m3) machine screws to secure it. Removed side to side play and rattle. Assume that’s exactly what those two holes are meant for yet no reference to them is made in the instructions. 

Going to get the electrics back in and stick the Racing Fighter body back on for now. Lost momentum with this at the minute so just going to get it back usable for the girls for the time being. 

I'm taking notes again, there's always something to learn. The single rear bar is technically a good idea. It should load the outside rear, in a turn, more than the front, decreasing understeer.

Make sure you don't actually clamp the bar in position otherwise it won't transfer the force across. 

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7 minutes ago, Granddad Stinky said:

I'm taking notes again, there's always something to learn. The single rear bar is technically a good idea. It should load the outside rear, in a turn, more than the front, decreasing understeer.

Make sure you don't actually clamp the bar in position otherwise it won't transfer the force across. 

That’s the hoped for characteristic, and most of what I’ve read has resulted in people using just the rear bar so I’ll just start with that.

No the bar isn’t clamped I can still move it. It just felt, to me, to be too loose, plus I felt those holes where there for a reason and the only reason I can see is the secure the bar. Maybe they were utilised in the DT02 instructions for the stabiliser set but have no access to those. Can’t see Tamiya going to the effort (as such) of adding two holes for no purpose or reason. 

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Just now, Man1c M0nk3y said:

That’s the hoped for characteristic, and most of what I’ve read has resulted in people using just the rear bar so I’ll just start with that.

No the bar isn’t clamped I can still move it. It just felt, to me, to be too loose, plus I felt those holes where there for a reason and the only reason I can see is the secure the bar. Maybe they were utilised in the DT02 instructions for the stabiliser set but have no access to those. Can’t see Tamiya going to the effort (as such) of adding two holes for no purpose or reason. 

I've just had a look at a spare shock tower mount. I agree, it looks far to convenient to be a random hole placement.

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10 minutes ago, Granddad Stinky said:

I've just had a look at a spare shock tower mount. I agree, it looks far to convenient to be a random hole placement.

Definitely. If it’s all by chance then it’s a useful one anyway 😂

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Usually those holes have grub screws in them, not sure why they are not included in that particular set

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8 hours ago, Juls1 said:

Usually those holes have grub screws in them, not sure why they are not included in that particular set

Can only think cost. May cost Tamiya next to nothing for them but times that by however many kits sold worldwide and it would soon add up. 

Checking the online manuals for DT02/03 all show no use detailed for them holes though. Would be curious to know if the DT02 stabiliser set instructions show anything but my google skills have failed!

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5 hours ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Checking the online manuals for DT02/03 all show no use detailed for them holes though. Would be curious to know if the DT02 stabiliser set instructions show anything but my google skills have failed!

Nope!

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Never ever fit anti roll bars to any buggy !

Unless it is lowered and run on a road track ............................

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1 minute ago, super gripper said:

Never ever fit anti roll bars to any buggy !

Unless it is lowered and run on a road track ............................

Wow. I'm so sorry.

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2 hours ago, super gripper said:

Never ever fit anti roll bars to any buggy !

Unless it is lowered and run on a road track ............................

Care to elaborate on that?

Surely the same principles and reactions apply just effected by the lower possible traction conditions. 

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4 minutes ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Care to elaborate on that?

Surely the same principles and reactions apply just effected by the lower possible traction conditions. 

I'm just off to remove the factory fitted anti-roll bars on my 80mph 1/8 Hobao buggy. 🤷‍♂️

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