Man1c M0nk3y

Man1c’s DT03 From Buggy to Truggy.

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I don't see any reason not to fit them on buggies.  For the most part, you can accomplish similar capabilities with different springs strengths and nobody says not to change spring rates.  ;)

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The purpose of an anti-roll bar is to transfer lateral load across the car, either RC or 1:1.

A rear wheel drive car with a single bar will increase the load to the rear outside wheel in a corner. That's part of the suspension geometry, not tyre grip.

The result of the extra loading is to make that wheel slide earlier than before, reducing understeer. This change in geometry is a constant, regardless of running surface.

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2 minutes ago, Granddad Stinky said:

The purpose of an anti-roll bar is to transfer lateral load across the car, either RC or 1:1.

A rear wheel drive car with a single bar will increase the load to the rear outside wheel in a corner. That's part of the suspension geometry not, tyre grip.

The result of the extra loading is to make that wheel slide earlier than before, reducing understeer. 

 

Well, yes and no.  Sway bars also add/affect the spring rate of the suspension (as does tire sidewall strength).  This is why you can accomplish similar (not the exact same) capabilities with spring rates.

 

FWIW, I race 1:1:

http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/hosting/Honda/2016_10_HMRC/IMG_6541.jpg

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BTW, I should add, the spring rate difference that sway bars affect is only when one side is being deflected.  If both sides of the axis are being deflected at the same time for the same amount deflection (say landing straight from a jump), then yes it does not affect spring rate.

 

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2 minutes ago, Mahjik said:

BTW, I should add, the spring rate difference that sway bars affect is only when one side is being deflected.  If both sides of the axis are being deflected at the same time for the same amount deflection (say landing straight from a jump), then yes it does not affect spring rate.

 

I agree, it's not an exact science  but the principle is sound and there are different ways to achieve the same result.

If you clamp the centre of an anti-roll bar, you create a torsion bar, 😂 as in the front of a VW Beetle.

 

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Glad this sparked some interest.

Buggies require the suspension to be fully independent especially on very bumpy tracks otherwise the car will just dance over the top of them

On high grip surfaces such as Astro you will just constantly grip roll.

Tamiya made the anti roll bars for the Fighter cup series where the speeds are slow and they run on 75% on road track and 25% off road - well its not even off road

Look it up and Watch the video's on YouTube.

The Fighter Cup is also done in Germany

On a buggy you can call them 'roll over bars' cos that's all your buggy will do !

Bigger scales such as the heavy 8th cars do use them, but they are not very thick.

Big thick anti roll bars make your buggy handle like crap

Remember this is a 10th scale light weight thing and has no resemblance to a real car

I race my TRF buggies and never ever do I fit any anti roll bars

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Not so much of an interest for me, more of an issue.

If you look at your post again, it reads as though you're issuing a directive.

Not cool. Especially when other people are at liberty to fit or not fit anything they wish to their cars, don't you think?

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43 minutes ago, Granddad Stinky said:

Not so much of an interest for me, more of an issue.

If you look at your post again, it reads as though you're issuing a directive.

Not cool. Especially when other people are at liberty to fit or not fit anything they wish to their cars, don't you think?

wasn't meant to be -but then I am not a very pc person so I am not bothered.

Free Country to say what I like.

As an ex-serviceman who saw his mates get blown to bits in the name of 'freedom' 

Do not care if people are 'offended'

 

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Erm 😳 well then. That went on a bit of a tangent at the end. 

Appreciate all arguments/opinions. I’ll see how things play out. It’s not being used anywhere super bumpy so may work. If not I’ll tweak some more. That’s the fun isn’t it. 

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43 minutes ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Erm 😳 well then. That went on a bit of a tangent at the end. 

Appreciate all arguments/opinions. I’ll see how things play out. It’s not being used anywhere super bumpy so may work. If not I’ll tweak some more. That’s the fun isn’t it. 

If you do feel the need for using them, I would suggest you start with the thinnest one. The hardest thing to do is matching your shock absorber settings with the bars.

You could run the car with the bars connected and then pop the ball joints on the bars and see if the car runs better or not.

That way you won't have to completely remove the bars to see if there is any difference. 

A few years ago at the Iconic Revival (A1 Grantham Astro track) people were complaining that the cars were grip rolling - I think the car was a Terra Scorcher.

We popped the bars at the ball joints and the TS ran like a dream.

Anti roll bars went in the bin. Maybe they should of gone on Ebay but they were thrown in the nearest dustbin.

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18 hours ago, super gripper said:

If you do feel the need for using them, I would suggest you start with the thinnest one. The hardest thing to do is matching your shock absorber settings with the bars.

You could run the car with the bars connected and then pop the ball joints on the bars and see if the car runs better or not.

That way you won't have to completely remove the bars to see if there is any difference. 

A few years ago at the Iconic Revival (A1 Grantham Astro track) people were complaining that the cars were grip rolling - I think the car was a Terra Scorcher.

We popped the bars at the ball joints and the TS ran like a dream.

Anti roll bars went in the bin. Maybe they should of gone on Ebay but they were thrown in the nearest dustbin.

Have only used the thinnest bar and rear only for now. I’ll play about and see if it works for the use it will get. If not I’ll remove. Nothing ventured nothing gained or as the case may be learnt. 

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Much as I wholeheartedly agree with @Granddad Stinky regarding the authoritarian tone of his post, @super gripper does appear to have a point. I have just been reviewing photos of the top finishers in the IFMAR 2WD Off-road World Championships for the last few years, and there was hardly an anti-roll bar in sight.

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2 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Much as I wholeheartedly agree with @Granddad Stinky regarding the authoritarian tone of his post, @super gripper does appear to have a point. I have just been reviewing photos of the top finishers in the IFMAR 2WD Off-road World Championships for the last few years, and there was hardly an anti-roll bar in sight.

I'm never going to be good enough for racing, I don't have the co-ordination any more. The stability kit was £11 delivered from Hong Kong, I just fancied having a play around with it. 🤷‍♂️

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Hi Man1c, still no info about the body you're going to use? You're taking suspension to a new level (pun intended;>).

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On 6/5/2018 at 5:14 PM, NeonScorcher said:

Hi Man1c, still no info about the body you're going to use? You're taking suspension to a new level (pun intended;>).

Unfortunately not 😳 Life has been hectic to put it mildly. Have not even looked at it since I mentioned it. Racing Fighter body has been on so the girls could play. 

I’ll try and get some body shots ASAP. Nothing special and still Tamiya for now but I think it looks good. 

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Well then. It’s been a long time coming and @NeonScorcher has probably long forgotten he even asked!

The body I ended up getting was a Stadium Blitzer. 

As you may (or may not it’s been that long) the first issue was the rear body posts needed working on to exit the body at a suitable point and I ended up designing some and having them printed at Shapeways. 

46860791101_6f967b62cf_z.jpg

This is with the custom mounts. The stock mounts would have come out in the roll bar/cage feature of the body which I wasn’t happy with. 

Now if you are wondering why it’s not painted, the simple answer is I never got the body to sit well. It seemed compromised no matter how I had it. Sat right at the front meant it hit the gearbox at the rear and with the rear sat higher. With both ends level the front was too high imo. You could look straight under and along the chassis and would ideally need another body under to offer some protection. In the end I decided the best course of action was to cut away some of the rear bed so the gearbox could poke out. I never got around to it though as I put it all back to buggy so the girls could carry on using it.

The shell has sat in the cupboard ever since. 

Some pictures then...

32985424448_4a5bcedaa8_z.jpg

******* in the air!

32985424398_f5f84f6795_z.jpg

This is the best compromise at the front. 

46860791401_00736dcf16_z.jpg

Underside hits gearbox. 

An other point that I’ll need to address. The front tyres hit the boby on full lock and compression. Unlikely to often be like that but still an issue to sort. However, I don’t want to keep messing around with it at the minute, so I picked up an Aqroshot body. I know it’ll fit without issue so that’s the route I will now take and get the thing up and running again for the girls. 

In hindsight I should have bought an Aqroshot at the beginning 😂 Had fun getting to that conclusion mind.

I will return to the Stadium Blitzer body though at some point as determined to get it on and ‘right’  

As for any changes to the build since my last update. It’s had a new faster/stronger servo fitted. Nothing fancy, just another Alturn. 

As well as the shell to sort, I’m toying with the idea of new motor/esc for it. Bit more poke to move those big wheels. Not decided with that yet though. 

Anyway next update should hopefully see the Aqroshot body on. Now to find enough time. 

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So a small update this one. 

Still haven’t sorted the Aqroshot shell out just no spare time at the minute unfortunately. 

I did however grab 5 minutes to fit this...

40126233923_7f6e0232ea_z.jpg

A lovely little gearbox guard made by someone off Facebook. 

Fits perfectly. 

40126233633_c16a05c7a6_z.jpg

Hopefully the next update will see a shell back on it and some electrics back in. 

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Not updated this for a bit. Renovating house and decorating really do kill any free time!

Anyway a small update. Like many others I’ve hovered over the DF03 hop-up shocks (53926) on many occasion but they are relatively expensive in the UK at least. 

I was looking for a part for my GF01 and could only find it available from RC-Mart. Figured I’d have a nosey at the shocks as they were fresh in mind as @ThunderDragonCy had recently posted about getting some and sure enough there they were at around half the price of UK sellers. The rest as they say, is history!

I have built them following a post in @ALEXKYRIAK DT03 build and have used 3 o-rings on the front shafts and 4 o-rings on the rears to reduce travel down the DT03 lengths. 

Built them with kit supplied 400cst oil and 2 hole pistons and the supplied gold springs to begin with. 

These things are lovely to build compared to CVA’s. On par with the Schumacher Big Bores on the Cougar I have and the GF01 hop-up shocks I have recently built.

33694606448_880b86b960_z.jpg

I think I’ve mentioned elsewhere already, but the Aqroshot body is cut and ready for paint which the girls have finally decided on so just need to find some more free time to do it. 

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1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

@Man1c M0nk3y That looks lovely with the posh shocks on. I'm really pleased with mine. As it happens I've been running my DT03 truggy again recently. Been really enjoying it.

Cheers Cy. 

Definitely nice shocks but certainly an indulgence too. 

Apart from the fact I should have just bought an Aqroshot to begin with I’ve spent a silly (really) amount of money on this. Being my first though it’s got under my skin!

Have put ‘stock/kit’ electrics back in for now but looking to go brushless with it. Need to research what’s the ‘sweet’ spot regarding power over the Torque Tuned and longevity of the drivetrain. Would like more punch but not at the expense of killing it. 

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I know exactly what you mean. I thought about selling my DT03 after not using it for a while, bug I just couldn't. Ran it again to remind me how fun it is and how much I like how it looks. 

I had a 13.5 speed passion on the tble02s for ages. On nimh batteries it's really not that fast, but run time is pretty long, and it you get a speed passion it has end bell timing adjustment so you can leave that at zero too. On 8.4v nimh or 2s lipo it was a fair bit more lively. 17.5 would be very easy to handle and run time would probably be measured in days! 

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51 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

I had a 13.5 speed passion on the tble02s for ages. On nimh batteries it's really not that fast, but run time is pretty long, and it you get a speed passion it has end bell timing adjustment so you can leave that at zero too. On 8.4v nimh or 2s lipo it was a fair bit more lively. 17.5 would be very easy to handle and run time would probably be measured in days! 

Been looking at an Absima setup. Apparently they are made by Hobbywing and seen a few on here rate them. Iirc it’s in the 3500kv range. Not sure what sort of comparable ‘t’ that would be.

Might give it a shot and if it’s too much I’ll stick it in the Cougar when it’s finished. 

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1 hour ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Been looking at an Absima setup. Apparently they are made by Hobbywing and seen a few on here rate them. Iirc it’s in the 3500kv range. Not sure what sort of comparable ‘t’ that would be.

Might give it a shot and if it’s too much I’ll stick it in the Cougar when it’s finished. 

The 13.5 I had was 3300kv so that's going to be pretty nice. 

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13 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

The 13.5 I had was 3300kv so that's going to be pretty nice. 

Cool sounds promising then. 

Just double checked and it 3421kv. 

Only issue is I’ll need new batteries or to get practicing soldering. Tempted now!

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23 minutes ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Cool sounds promising then. 

Just double checked and it 3421kv. 

Only issue is I’ll need new batteries or to get practicing soldering. Tempted now!

Give soldering a go. I only learnt in the last year. Spend a bit more on decent flux and solder and it's sooooo much easier. I got a 40w plumbers iron from b and q for 12 quid. 

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