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Posted

Hey guys,

 

I think I have a winter project in my off time from running my collection. My friend donated a sand scorcher (the re-release version) about 7-8 years ago…I have enjoyed the heck out of it, but it is in sorry shape. Anyways, it is in need of new tires, a new front wheel, improved direct steering with beefier tie rods and I’d like to install a stronger chassis. Right now, it is 75% disassembled for cleaning

 

I am considering fabricating my own chassis plate either out of 3mm aluminum plating or ¼” aluminum square tubing (like you would find on a lot of the Kyosho cars)  I’m definitely not wanting to overcomplicate things, so if I use the aluminum plate I will use the original chassis as a template. Unfortunately, I have a very limited arsenal of tools…I do have an angle grinder to rough cut it and a dremel to smooth the edges,  however I’ve never cut sheet metal before...Correct me if my line of thinking is wrong.

 

Does anybody have any suggestions? Again, I do not want to overcomplicate this and I don’t want to spend tons of money to rebuild it…I realize that the SRB’s have their own charm and trying to improve performance is a waste. I'm mainly trying to restore it to a point where it will last me several more years =)

 

Thanks!

Posted

How about one of these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-1-10-Aluminum-Chassis-plate-with-side-Sand-Scorcher-Super-Champ-Buggy-SRB/221996309178?hash=item33b002daba:g:n40AAOSwDwtUpKyM

Or you could go carbon fibre with one of these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Chassis-Plate-for-Tamiya-1-10-Buggy-SRB/253132854323?hash=item3aefe4d433:g:eaIAAOSwtJNZrHLT

If you want to do it really cheap, you can just use two of the original glass fibre plates on top of each other...

 

If you are going to make your own, have a word with our very own Twinset as I'm pretty sure he used to make them a few years ago...

Posted

Ahhhhh....Thank you very much! I did check ebay but didn't see the carbon fiber one. Me likey a lot =)

 

Do you think it will be stronger than the factory glass fiber chassis? I'm looking for no flex.

Posted

Just ordered a set of front wheels and tires, a carbon fiber chassis, and servo saver (for the direct link steering) I WANTED to get better shocks, but I’m pretty cheap…I’m going to try heavier shock oil and maybe internal springs. I've also read somewhere that mounting the shocks upside down will help with the leaking.

Posted

The standard kit chassis plate does have a bit of flex in it which can put stress on the front body mount hole (bonnet/hood) when landing jumps; drive more sympathetically and the standard plate is fine.  Alloy plates eliminate the flex but do add a bit to the weight.

I'd stick with the standard plate for normal running, the radio box and the reinforcing metal triangle underneath do a reasonable job of creating a fairly rigid chassis for most uses.

Rear shocks are hard to find, 1/18th are about the right size but not able to cope with the weight.  The Tamtech gear shocks used to be the go to option but are VERY hard to find these days.

 

70mm alloy coil over shocks fit the front perfectly - plenty available from Far East sellers on eBay for £10-12 a pair

 

Posted

Thanks. I am no longer using the radio box, which obviously eliminates some of the rigidity. My plan is to mount the battery (a standard 6 cell) transversely and hold it in place with velcro straps. If it’s strapped tightly, it should help prevent the chassis from flexing as badly.

 

I wish Tamiya at least improved upon the re-release shocks to prevent them from leaking. I’m going to try to mount them upside down with internal springs and see how they do…if they leak like a sieve, I’ll invest in some RC4WD shocks as others have used.

Posted

with non radio box you need to either double up on the kit supplied chassis plate with longer screws or go for an alloy plate. Carbon should be fine if at least 3mm thickness

Posted

I finally received my carbon chassis, wheels, servo saver and RC4WD springs. I somehow broke the front end brace while removing it from the chassis so now I have to wait for that part to come in…

 

Does anybody have any suggestions for the shock oil weight? I’m using 80mm internal springs on the front stock shocks and I’ll have to cut them for the shorter rear shocks

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