Decal sheet tips/tricks

[Ronnyhotdog]

So, I'm in the decal phase of my first build and I can't say I'm enjoying it. Some of the really thin decals can go ... themselves, seriously. Any tips on making life easier here. Cutting those really intricate and flimsy decals with scissors is just ridiculous, but using a craft knife to cut them out is equally frustrating. One of the annoying things is trying to keep the tiny decals under the ruler to get a clean cut, the blade just pulls the decal along.

Any advice or the contact details of a professional decal applier(just joking.... maybe...)

[svenb]

Nice quality curved decals scissors are in my opinion better than using a knife. Use Washing up liquid and water to spray on the body and sticky side of the decal to allow some movement on the body then press out the liquid with a soft lint free rag and heat gently with a hair dryer to mould into and around curved. Use tweezers on the really small stickers. Try not to touch the sticky side of the decals as you can sometimes leave nice finger prints 😐

[Jason1145]

lol Ronny you’re just discovering one of the quirks to this Hobby, over time you’ll either end loving decals or remain hating them... me I too use the same lexan curved scissors to cut out the decals, then either use your fingernail to separate them from the backing or a thin blade if it’s too finicky.

I don’t think regular scissors would do the job too well, are you using specific lexan scissors?

I use ones just like below, they are even cheaper if you search properly.

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Curved-Lexan-Scissors-RC-Car-Bodyshell-Cutting-For-Polycarbonate-Shells-Arches-/371079169069

[Ronnyhotdog]

Yeah, I have those. It's getting a clean edge and applying it correctly. It looks rough up close. Why can't they have slide on decals? That would be so much better. Tamiya make them for static model, but not RC.

[Ronnyhotdog]

1 hour ago, svenb said:

Nice quality curved decals scissors are in my opinion better than using a knife. Use Washing up liquid and water to spray on the body and sticky side of the decal to allow some movement on the body then press out the liquid with a soft lint free rag and heat gently with a hair dryer to mould into and around curved. Use tweezers on the really small stickers. Try not to touch the sticky side of the decals as you can sometimes leave nice finger prints 😐

Would a mini heat gun be OK to dry out the stickers and mould them.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yakamoz-Electric-Nozzles-Embossing-Drying/dp/B01M8NEQG1/ref=sr_1_9?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1515421410&sr=1-9&keywords=heat+gun

[TWINSET]

Yup, heat guns are fine, I use one of these; https://www.amazon.co.uk/BLACK-DECKER-KX2001K-GB-Heat-2000/dp/B00IW7ZH8S/ref=sr_1_10?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1515425103&sr=1-10&keywords=heat+gun

Use water/soap to slide 'em into place then warm up and mould with the heat gun

[Juggular]

If your knife pulls the decals, that knife is simply not sharp enough.  

I use OLFA brand art knife. It can cut along a rubbery and slippery piece of plastic that even paints don't stick to, let alone other blades.

I suspect those who enjoy doing the decal work must have a good art knife.  

I also have pair of Tamiya curved body scissors too. Compared to a good art knife, those scissors are really dull.  

 

 

 

[speedy_w_beans]

I use a few techniques:

• Small to medium Fiskars or other high-quality scissors to trim decals from the sheet.  Really sharp blades that don't spread under pressure make the job a million times easier.  Try to remove as much excess clear as possible to make it less obvious in photos.
• Tip of an Xacto knife to transfer small decals; it's relatively easy to rotate, align, and press small decals into place.
• Pull back 5-10 mm of backing paper and trim it off for long stripes.  Align the stripe on the body, press the exposed end into place, pull more backing paper out while lightly guiding and pressing the rest of the stripe into place.  The portion you first installed will help keep the rest of the stripe in alignment.
• On some larger decals I will trim to the lines, place on the body, and figure out if I need to tug/stretch the decal a little while installing it.  This is usually the case on window decals and front grills.
• A heat gun is fine, but a hair dryer is a little more gentle on the vinyl.  If you use a heat gun for stripping paint, or a hot air wand for surface mount soldering, you may overheat the vinyl and destroy the decal.  I usually use a hair dryer a few inches away from the decal, quickly moving the nozzle in circular patterns to spread the heat evenly.  After 30 seconds of this, you'll notice the vinyl becomes very easy to fit around curved surfaces like domed headlights and compound curves.  Once the vinyl cools it will keep the shape and the glue will still hold.
• On window decals, it's a pain to get air bubbles out from under the clear section of the window.  I usually install the decal and then use an Xacto knife to make light incisions along the perimeter of the clear section.  Then peel up the clear section.  You're left with a semi-gloss window trim, and a shiny Lexan window (no decal, no air bubbles), which is closer to realistic.  Don't cut too deeply; use just enough pressure to make the vinyl cut.
• Tamiya usually recommends following their number sequence.  They usually have a good reason for this as certain decals will hide the edges of other decals to create the best result.

Pace yourself.  Paint and decals are detail work by their very nature.  On some of Tamiya's touring car bodies it will take me 15-20 hours to finish the paint and decals (no interiors, drivers, or custom parts); that's just a little more time than I spend building the chassis. 

[salvine]

Maybe this was mentioned but I would caution against a dedicated heat gut. Too much heat. For stickers a hair dryer is more than enough.

 

Never mind. Speedy just said this...

[StrokerBoy]

22 hours ago, Ronnyhotdog said:

So, I'm in the decal phase of my first build and I can't say I'm enjoying it. Some of the really thin decals can go ... themselves, seriously. Any tips on making life easier here. Cutting those really intricate and flimsy decals with scissors is just ridiculous, but using a craft knife to cut them out is equally frustrating. One of the annoying things is trying to keep the tiny decals under the ruler to get a clean cut, the blade just pulls the decal along.

Any advice or the contact details of a professional decal applier(just joking.... maybe...)

You're doing a Unimog aren't you ?  If you've made a half-decent job of painting it, a lot of those initial decals are a total waste of time, they're just designed to give a nice black edge along the bumpers and arches.  I wasn't impressed with my paint job on mine, yet the decals still added nothing and I binned a lot of them.

[Ronnyhotdog]

1 hour ago, StrokerBoy said:

You're doing a Unimog aren't you ?  If you've made a half-decent job of painting it, a lot of those initial decals are a total waste of time, they're just designed to give a nice black edge along the bumpers and arches.  I wasn't impressed with my paint job on mine, yet the decals still added nothing and I binned a lot of them.

Can I ask what screw driver you used to screw in the small 2.6x6mm body screws that attach the mud guard part to the body shell? I found it impossible to get them in all the way and destroyed the heads trying to do it.

[StrokerBoy]

Yeah, they're horrible, I messed one up too.  I've got a proper set of Tamiya JIS screwdrivers, but I don't think any fitted those.  I'd swap those screws for something else if I was building one again.

[Ronnyhotdog]

Yeah, same here. Where did you get the roof top lights,are they a hop up or did you fit them from another kit?

[StrokerBoy]

They're not a Tamiya part, they were a random purchase off Ebay.  Bought a red/blue set for my Fuzzbox too.