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Posted
16 minutes ago, waterbok said:

Did you had them made by shapeways?

Yup. Quality is great. This is a design issue I'm pretty sure.

8 minutes ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

What’s the next step then. Is ot possible to use a stronger material or is it a case of more material in that area? 

You can get aluminium at Shapeways but it's megabucks, so no, not a material change, just lots more material in that area. There's room in the wishbone to make it probably twice as thick as it is now.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just get tamiya universals and drive cups and then the issue is fixed. I would be more concerned with someone making an after market gearcase since that breaks way to easily

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

After a few misfires involving getting wonky bores because of all the 3 deg planes going on in the model, finally got these today:

20180307_174653

Version 6 I think?!! Fitted up perfectly and much more material around the pivot. 

20180307_17541720180307_180630

When I get to run it is anyone's guess with the weather being as it is, but it's nice to have them on. No slop at all in the axles (I had washers/shims behind the hex pins on the kit uprights), full wishbone clearance, adjustability, all there so hit all the design objectives. Just hope they are strong enough this time!

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

🤞

Still think that colour is ace.

Are they thicker wheel hex’s too that you are running?

Yes. I am running the longer TG10 ( I think?) axles with 10mm thick hexes to even up the front and rear track when using the truck wheels.

  • Like 1
Posted

Right. Is that because of the alloy front hubs/axles? Was told they could mess the frnot/rear track up so longer rears balances it back out. 

Hope the new hubs are successful anyway. 

Posted
23 minutes ago, Man1c M0nk3y said:

Right. Is that because of the alloy front hubs/axles? Was told they could mess the frnot/rear track up so longer rears balances it back out. 

Hope the new hubs are successful anyway. 

The alloy c hubs do increase the front track very slightly but mainly its the truck wheels. The chassis is designed to have the same width across the outside of the wheels front and rear with buggy wheels and the front wheels are much skinnier than the rwar so the front suspension is actually wider than the rwar to achieve this. The Blitzer wheels are nearly same width both ends and also similar offset so the front ends up wider than the rear across the outside of the wheels.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Weather was nice today so a pack was charged, the truck wheels went back on and i got the new uprights dirty!

2018-03-09_09-30-44

Nothing broke, conditions on the grass were good and a full pack was emptied. Much fun. Yes!

So, ok, one pack around a field does not a design prove, but i am really pleased they seem to work. 

Posted
4 hours ago, iluvmud said:

Looks cool, but is it much smaller than the originals at this point?

Surprinsingly it is. The key is that the bearing barrel is much much smaller diameter than the kit version because it doesn't have to clear those massive plastic driveshafts that come with the kit. This combined with the way the new one is cut away towards the centreline means it doesn't bind or catch the wishbone at all so if has loads more suspension droop, which helps traction. The suspension here is set up so the arms are fairly parallel to the floor at ride height as you can see, but with the extra droop there is about 35% travel to get to this point. Before it was only about 20% and you were always fighting the set up for ground clearance versus traction/softer springs. 

Yes, there is a LOT of bulk around the pivot pin, but after the first failure i decided to go all out for strength.  The wishbone has plenty of eoom to allow this abd even with buggy wheels its out of the way still.

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