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srdrgz12

Help me identify this "hot" trinity motor

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TLDR; Identify this motor, pics included. Getting hot after 5-10 of hard driving, normal? 

I've been having trouble identifying this vintage Trinity motor. According to the limited amount of information I've found so far, it's from the mid 1980's, it has a one piece silver can with four mounting holes, a non-removable plastic end bell with the words Kyosho and Japan stamped into it. The sticker on the can is hardly legible but it's a clear sticker with black text that originally said trinity powered. The motor is is non-rebuildable but has replaceable brushes. 

If possible, I'd like find out the motor specs. I don't remember exactly when I purchased this motor but I'm sure it was in the mid to late 80's to replace the original silver can in my hotshot, which it is currently still in. The fact that it has a fixed end bell leads me to suspect that its a stock 27t motor Idk though. 

For the age of the motor and the car, it seems to have plenty of punch. I'm actually quite surprised it runs so well. The top end doesn't seem to match the torque but seems plenty fast for a mid 80's hotshot. Of course, I don't have a lot to compare it to. 

Additionally, after about 5-10 of hard driving on grass and concrete it gets really hot. Hot enough that I can't keep my finger on it for more than 3-5 seconds. I'm running a 13t pinion,  a 5000mah nimh battery with a castle sct esc and nothing in the drive train seems to be binding.

Are these temperatures normal for this motor? I understand some motors were designed to only run for 5 or so minutes, the average length of a race? Are today's nimh battery just too much for these vintage motors, both in run time and power? 

Thanks for reading and any help is greatly appreciated. 

 

 

 

IMG_20180115_110802476~2.jpg

IMG_20180115_110735875~2.jpg

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As far as I knowTrinity never made motors for Kyosho, or vice versa. To me that looks like a well used Le Mans 360ST with an old Trinity sticker slapped on it.

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@max69vk

The attached picture is from  a 1987 Trinity catalog. Furthermore, I purchased the motor with that sticker brand new and until recently, the sticker was properly affixed and in good condition. I've also come across other Trinity / Kyosho motors on the internet,  that while similar to mine, not exactly the same. 

Thank you for your reply. 

Screenshot_20180115-134902~2.png

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@max69vk

BITD, Kyosho made motors for Trinity.. See the pic of the Trinity Monster motor below that was based on the Kyosho LeMans series of motors..

Sometime later, Kyosho decided to get out of making motors, and trinity bought the factory, and it became EPIC motors..

@srdrgz12  

If the motor that you have is a "Stock motor" , then that may explain why it is getting hot.. "Stock Motors" are typically a performance based racing motor, and they are typically designed to be run over a short period, being the length of a race (so 5-8 minutes).. They often have quite a bit of timing built into the motor, and this timing not only increases the performance, but also increases the heat buildup within the motor.. Also keep in mind that we only had 1200mAh batteries back in the day, and they didn't run for much longer than 5-8 mins, so by using a 5000mAh battery you are increasing your runtime 4 fold..

The condition of your motor may also be affecting the heat buildup inside.. If the motor has had quite a bit of use, then the commutator and brushes could be worn, and you could be getting quite a bit of arcing at the commutator when the motor is running..

img_02711.jpg

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Interesting piece of information there! Amazingly after I posted I then stumbled over multiple versions of Kyosho/Trinity variants, just not the same as yours.

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I really appreciate all the help guys. I failed to mention that I did replace the the old / original brushes fairly recently and they have minimal wear.

Although, this motor is technically non-rebuildable I was able to remove the end bell and clean the commutator with some deoxit and a rag. The comm came out very clean. However, there is some arcing at the commutator but I don't know how much is too much. 

My guess is either this motor was only designed to run in the 5-10 min range or the brushes and commutator need attention. 

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Yeah stock motors aren't designed to run for more than 1200mAh :mellow:

Stock motors are by legislation not allowed to be open can nor have ball bearings... until the Trinity Paradox started the rebuildable revolution. :) 

Old days used to have specialised motor lathes that could cut the comm in a stock sealed can after unbolting the brush hoods. 

The comm needs to be trued on a lathe with diamond bit so that it spins true. When it's not round nor true the brushes will bounce & causes arcing.

A properly trued comm only makes tiny little sparkles at the trailing edge of each brush... it's a beautiful sight. :wub:

 

If you manage to crowbar that can open, or get a can from a dead mod motor... go extract some armatures from RS540 chromecans. They run much better housed in proper mod cans with good brushes and magnets, plus some timing advance. 

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@WillyChang

Thanks for the info. What would be the benefits an rs540 armature in a mod can vs my current motor. Would it be faster and or maintain lower temperatures? 

Again, thanks for all the good info. 

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4 hours ago, srdrgz12 said:

@WillyChang

Thanks for the info. What would be the benefits an rs540 armature in a mod can vs my current motor. Would it be faster and or maintain lower temperatures? 

Its CHEAP :lol: haha lotsa chromecans lying about not doing much, cheap source of armature donors

Any "stock" motor is going to be a 27turn single wind, same paper specs as a chromecan 540. 

Chromecan has weak magnets and pretty restrictive blob of a brush on a tinfoil lever... so a proper motor can with stronger magnets and a decent brush system is going to make that armature run much better. 

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