How to make a Lunchbox wheelie less???

[Losi XXT-CR 147]

Not overly impressed with my Lunchbox at the mo and find the enjoyment of driving it less than it probably should be. 

It’s got a wheelie bar, oil shocks and an AMPRO trans brace on it. 

It wheelies way too much and becomes hugely unstable in a straight line. I’m looking for suggestions to make it put its power down better. 

I fitted the trans brace earlier this evening and it has massively improved the axle control. But it still can’t put the power down. On wet mud/grass less than half throttle still results in it almost flipping over backwards. 

And I haven’t been able to go above about half throttle even over a longer distance. As accelerating from a steady half throttle still results in trying to flip over backwards. 

I’ll try and get a vid of it this weekend. 

Setup wise. I’m running 2S LiPo’s with a Novak Tempest ESC. This is an old race ESC and can pull a lot of amps according to the spec sheet (420A). I have it paired with a brushed 13x3 race motor. 

I fitted an adjustable motor mount and changed the pinion to suit the motor, although I forget what too. 

The ESC has an adjustable initial amp dial which I’ve set to the minimum amount too. 

[wolfdogstinkus 1893]

Fit a heavy old NiCad in the battery tray?, stuff the lipo in the front somewhere.

[Wooders28 4720]

The 4 bar rear  @smirk-racing uses on his is a thing of beauty. Double wishbone front too.

6s lipo and no wheelie bar! 

 

Pics of the set up, plus a 50+mph run vid.

 

[Backlash 481]

Well, the obvious answer is to put some more weight in the front...

On my rock crawler, I added some weight low down in the vehicle by placing some weight around the front rims... I used some lead fishing sinkers that I threaded onto some thin wire, and then wrapped them around the centre of the rim before I fitted the tyres.. You can also use stick on mag wheel weights.. Doing this lowers the centre of gravity of the car, at the expense of adding unsprung weight..

If you buy some lead mag wheel weights, you can also stick them low down on the front of the chassis to help keep the nose down..

..

[StrokerBoy 772]

You might be missing the point...

[wolfdogstinkus 1893]

My kids wanted theirs to wheelie more so i took the wheelie bar off. Now it rubs along on the rear bumper, until it hits a bump.   Easy 100mtr wheelies.

[waterbok 1282]

Right a 13x3 plus lipo and then complain 

[Losi XXT-CR 147]

17 hours ago, waterbok said:

Right a 13x3 plus lipo and then complain 

Well yes. But it was the slowest motor I had in stock. And wanted something more than the stock silvercan. 

It was either the 13 turn, 11 Triples or a 9x2. I’ve got these left over from my race days. Think I’m now down to about 8 brand new boxed motors.

 

[WillyChang 1814]

54 minutes ago, Losi XXT-CR said:

Well yes. But it was the slowest motor I had in stock. And wanted something more than the stock silvercan. 

It was either the 13 turn, 11 Triples or a 9x2. I’ve got these left over from my race days. Think I’m now down to about 8 brand new boxed motors.

Triples usually 'softer' on torque.

Just take 2 of them, ziptie onto front bumper... should wheelie less  

[emspjay 138]

What pinion gear are you running? I think I'm running 18T, I got a Traxxas VXL brushless system in my Midnight Pumpkin with 7.2 Ni-MA battery. Still wheelies but its manageable.

[TheMidnight Pumpkin 260]

Sorry if this has been previously shared as I didn't read every post. But when I want less wheelies on the CW01 chassis I simply flip over the stock wheelie bar. The normal way it wheelies just fine, upside down it keeps the front wheels planted a lot better. Its an old-school trick but it works beautifully.

[Losi XXT-CR 147]

Thanks for the tip. Haven’t run it again yet. Been to wet here and I don’t like getting them caked in mud. 

Need to check what pinion is on there. It’s bigger than the stock one but can’t remember what I bought. 

I did check the motor. It isn’t a 13 Triple in there. It’s a 12 Hex! Maybe I should revert back to the silvercan. But it always felt a little ‘toylike’ with that motor in it. 

Mum also going to have a play with the expo settings on the Tx and see if I can profile the throttle curve a bit. 

[Losi XXT-CR 147]

I’ve turned the wheelie bar upside down. And I’ve altered the throttle curve on the Tx. Sadly it got too dark to try it out today. But testing it on the bench it certainly seems a little less vicious. 

Managed to check and it’s an 18 Tooth pinion on there at the mo. 

 

[emspjay 138]

Working the curve on your TX is also great option (I don't have that on my TX for the Pumpkin)! But I do like the idea of flipping the bar! I'm going to do that on mine now! So simple and never thought about that! Great Ideas guys!

[Losi XXT-CR 147]

Well I can report back that the changes have made a significant impact. Much more driveable. 

Surface was really slippery but still largely pleased by the changes. Need to get somewhere and really open it up. No idea what sort of speed it is capable of. 

 

[racer1 117]

I just went through this with a Midnight Pumpkin I'm restoring.  I hated how much it would wheelie so I decided to lower it. The hardest part about lowering this chassis is fitting shocks to it.  Thankfully I had a few old TA01 chassis's laying around that still hard their shocks attached. 4 shocks from the TA01 fit perfectly. 

First you'll want to remove the lower part of the chassis that holds the battery. When doing this you will see that there are slots in the front of the chassis for the front A-Arms similar to the Grasshopper/Hornet. You will move the A-Arms to this new location. That is where the drop from the front end will come from. 

Next you want to replace the rear inserts where the rear gearbox attaches to the chassis with those from a hornet/grasshopper.  This will give you the necessary drop in the rear.  Now it's just a matter of mounting up the shocks from the TA01 chassis.  I used the little U channel pieces from lower front shock mount on the grasshopper and flipped them over to connect the top of the shocks to the chassis front and rear. The lower part of the shock just mounts up like the stock MP shocks. 

Next you'll need to deal with the steering servo mounting. It won't fit in the normal position because the saver will hit the A-Arms. To fist this I simply mounted the servo flat on the chassis like you would in a hornet. 

From there it's just a matter of mounting electronics within the tub.  I pushed as much forward as I could to offset the rear weight bias. You'll also need to use a smaller battery that fits down in the tub. I picked up a 4400 square LiPo that fits perfect. 

End result is a truck that doesn't wheelie nearly as much but is still way to top heavy for corning. A lexan shell would fix it but I like the hard bodies too much. 

 

[Aleblanc 57]

a proper 4 link with the correct instant center location will offer better traction and should in theory make it less likely to lift the front.

[

[Kingfisher 1171]

On 2/7/2018 at 9:42 AM, Aleblanc said:

a proper 4 link with the correct instant center location will offer better traction and should in theory make it less likely to lift the front.

A link to accompany your post.