gizard 133 Posted January 18, 2018 Hi All, I have been considering building a high lift for quite some time. I have decided against an original Bruiser (despite reading many build threads and the attraction of lots of metal parts etc.) One of the reasons I want the more modern High lift is primarily I want to put on a set of remotely lockable diffs from the Diff Doctor, and probably the Junfac 4 link suspension kit. I was wondering about 4ws but I might leave that for now. What I cannot decide now is which model I was favouring the Tundra but I I am considering the Hilux - I assume there is little difference between other than wheel base which is probably adjustable anyway? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Prescient 671 Posted January 18, 2018 Given the prices and availability of the full bodysets for each model, especially the F350 and Hi-lux, pick the one you want most from the start. Pricing varies hugely too depending on which country you are in. Couple of UK dealers were doing the Hi-Lux for £350 and Hobbyking had it at £290 before Christmas. The Tundra was £450. Chassis & wheelbase essentially the same but the Hi-Lux body is slightly out of scale being too large in my opinion. Considering it looks right on the mountain rider / mountaineer and that has 2.2 wheels and 125mm tyres. You really need to get the multi function unit for all the lights and sounds as well. It's very very boring without that. My personal view is that they don't handle that well, don't off-road that well and don't on-road that well. The bodyset makes them pretty fragile and it's painful to roll one over. If you like your big rig trucks and tanks then you will be in your element though. But like those it's easy to spend £1k plus to get it fully loaded with the MFU, decent radio etc. There are much more competent crawlers and ones which you don't worry about rolling etc. The 4 link kit helps but you end up with a compromised crawler and start to move away from the charm of the tamiya 3 speeds which is scale light off road (grass, sand, gradients, gravel etc). I reckon the CC01 is better off road with more utility then the CR01 is way ahead again. Plus any of the monster trucks go quicker on the rough stuff. All that aside, they have a great character and do exactly what you would expect (slow scale light off road). There are loads of mods and accessories available too. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted January 18, 2018 Great response ! Absolutely agree 100%. I built my Hilux for the build experience of the 3speed as much as anything else - they are a heavy lump when built, even without the MFU, so if you do roll one over on a slope it won't just be a topple onto its side. Both hilux and Tundra have scope for many many mods - personally I don;t like the ride height of either (I know its a High Lift but it looks a bit silly to my eyes, especially with the kit wheels, and the Tundra is worse in this repsect IMO). I managed to slightly lower the body on mine - i wouldn't say it was a huge amount in the end (maybe 5mm) but with bigger tyres it looks a bit more scale to my eyes now (appreciate maybe not everyone's aim lol! ) You can see that the trnasmission sits pretty low, which i think partly explains why the standard kit build looks a bit out of scale. RC4WD Hilux is a lot more scale in terms of the visuals and better as a off roader too. I've always fancied having an attempt at the Top Gear Polar Trip red Hilux, but it's a modern body so not an easy or cheap project Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GooneyBird 938 Posted January 18, 2018 I had a Hilux as well. Eventually I sold it because while it looked great on the shelf, I never really used it because of the top-heavy chassis and fragile body shell. I had the MFU on it as well, so I was always a bit paranoid of breaking that thing too. If you're looking for a good scale offroader (from Tamiya) look no further than a CC01, especially the hard-body variants. I have a Pajero MTW and it looks amazing offroad. Photograph it from the right angle and it looks like a 1:1 scale car. Of course, there are many options from RC4WD and Axial that work a lot better than a High Lift (and in the case of the RC4WD Hilux, look far more realisitic) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted January 18, 2018 Hmm, Thanks for the responses. I am looking for the 3 speed experience. I already have a CR-01 with 4WS and know that this (High lift) will not be as good in that respect. MFU - well I am in 2 minds about that - I will fit lights but might just be basic ones. Has anyone any experience of the Aquila 6 4WD radio RCJAZ appear to have them at a good price - but I cannot find any info anywhere about the 4WD versions functionality. I think I would need: CH1 steering stick, CH2 Throttle stick, CH3 Gear change stick or 3 position switch, CH4 Diff locks 2 position switch, CH5 maybe Rear Steer mix with CH1, CH6 MFU or lights switch?. Also I might fit Junfac axle extensions to widen the track slightly I am UK based but have bought a lot of Stuff from Tamico but for this Modelsport seem to similar prices. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Prescient 671 Posted January 18, 2018 @gizardif you are UK based then check eBay for the kit. Jadlam Racing has a couple of subsidiary trading companies on eBay that tend to have these 20-30% below modelsport. Occasionally unbuilt or part built private sales see kits on eBay from £250-£300 too. Even with the Junfac kits you won't work miracles. But if you want a basher and will use it then deffo go 4 link, wideners, 2.2 wheels + tyres. They look pretty trick and more scale. The F350 body is the best for coping with roll overs and cheap replacement parts availability in my opinion, then the Tundra. I would suggest you buy your controller from a UK source simply for warranty reasons given you need a 6ch rather than RCJaz etc. It won't cost much more and there are cheaper options too. If you are building one to run and enjoy then the MFU is well avoided due to weight. You could always use an ESS One+ for sounds if desired. Even with mods it's still a top heavy design with fairly high COG but if you don't mind the roll overs then it's a moot point. As for motors and if no over concern for keeping the body mint, I can heartily recommend a 5300kv + brushless. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted April 17, 2018 Hi All, Okay well finally ordered the Tundra from TImetunnel Now onto the Junfac kit. J10028 JunFac 4-Link suspension conversion J44221 JunFac Steering kit (1 inc.above) J90024 JunFac Hardened Uni shafts GE-J51032 JunFac ALU wheel spacer (13 mm, red) I think I have decided to go 4WS just for the added complexity hence the above extra Steering kit. What I have not worked out yet is the suspension - I assume you cannot use the leaf springs once upgraded to the 4-Link (it would be pointless have the 4-link then!). I have seen these mentioned as in upgrade for the 3-speeds: GE-GM20501 Gmade ALU shock G-TRANSITION (4 PCs., red) 80mm but I assume this is while they are still running the leafs as there are no springs- Can anyone suggest what shock spring combination is a good match for the 4-Link upgrade? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted April 17, 2018 I guess the Gmade Zero shock would be good - 94 or 104mm though? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shodog 1835 Posted April 17, 2018 I’d skip the 4ws. It will help it roll like crazy. I have a spare hilift with 4ws and body is toasted from rolling over so much. The drive is comparible to what a real truck could drive in. There are other far more capable chassis but this truck certainly checks the box as a good all around runner. I’ve taken mine to several places to run. The MFC definitely gets attention 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted April 17, 2018 Hi thanks for the response - is the one in the picture running the 4-link then I can't tell + what wheels and tyres? thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted April 17, 2018 Oh does anyone know where I could get a generic shift plate that might fit my Stick remote for a 3 speed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
topforcein 1764 Posted April 17, 2018 3 hours ago, gizard said: Oh does anyone know where I could get a generic shift plate that might fit my Stick remote for a 3 speed? if you cant find one i have some round blanks that you can make your own shift plate i could mark the blank for you with the shift plate from my spectrum but you will have to ajust it to fit ours when you cut it you.let me know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shodog 1835 Posted April 17, 2018 3 hours ago, gizard said: Hi thanks for the response - is the one in the picture running the 4-link then I can't tell + what wheels and tyres? thanks This is running the stock leaf suspension. Wheels are Rc4wd beadlocks and the tires are Rc4wd rock crusher. The stock tires are hard and small in diameter. Slightly larger tires will give you more ground clearance. You don’t really need a shift gate as this tranny is smooth enough to shift under power Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted April 17, 2018 Thanks Topforce - I will measure the diameter of the circle on my remote - it's a Flysky FS-i6 that I plan on using which I have modded to 10 Channels and with an 8ch rx I have means I have 3 two way switches and 1 three way switch for lights, noise, difflocks and perhaps 4ws. Thanks Shodog - are you saying no sympathy is required to shift gears - IE you can change gear whilst at full throttle? - I'm sure I would have some mechanical sympathy with it - but when either of my small boys get hold of it there would be none!!! hence the shift gate would stop them doing that! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shodog 1835 Posted April 18, 2018 On 4/17/2018 at 9:27 AM, gizard said: Thanks Shodog - are you saying no sympathy is required to shift gears - IE you can change gear whilst at full throttle? - I'm sure I would have some mechanical sympathy with it - but when either of my small boys get hold of it there would be none!!! hence the shift gate would stop them doing that! Yes, I shift mine under full power and haven’t had any problems in the ten + years I’ve had it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
topforcein 1764 Posted April 19, 2018 On 17/04/2018 at 5:27 PM, gizard said: Thanks Topforce - I will measure the diameter of the circle on my remote - it's a Flysky FS-i6 that I plan on using which I have modded to 10 Channels and with an 8ch rx I have means I have 3 two way switches and 1 three way switch for lights, noise, difflocks and perhaps 4ws. just drop me a pm if you need to and i can sort it out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted April 19, 2018 Hi sorry I have been meaning to do this, but I have been doing silly hours at work and not got around to it! But I am wfh tomorrow so will try to remember then 🙂 I guess with the right drill bit and some patience one could be made. Thanks G. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
topforcein 1764 Posted April 19, 2018 1 hour ago, gizard said: Hi sorry I have been meaning to do this, but I have been doing silly hours at work and not got around to it! But I am wfh tomorrow so will try to remember then 🙂 I guess with the right drill bit and some patience one could be made. Thanks G. you could cut it out with a dremmel type machine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt888 61 Posted April 28, 2018 I had a Tundra, it looked great I fitted a Junfac kit and Gmade team zero shocks, I also had 1.9 beadlock alloy wheels and 110mm tyres on it. But as I said it looked great but it wouldn't climb anything and it rolled over more times than it was on its wheels. So I sold it and bought this, it was a great kit to build and it goes almost anywhere you want it too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt888 61 Posted April 28, 2018 The other thing, do you have a controller for a 3 speed truck? If not this guy is a great person to deal with. https://greensmodels.co.uk/collections/radios/products/ikonnik-red-ka6-6-channel-transmitter-receiver-mode-2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted May 1, 2018 Hi Matt, thanks for the info. I hear what you are saying, I already have a CR-01 which I am sure is a better crawler etc. This Highlift is for fun and complexity etc. Got the kit now lots of nice little bits and bobs, BUT the wheels look really shocking! So to that end I am considering a set off Proline Titus 2.2 beadlocks with Proline BF Goodrich Baja tyres is there any reason why these will not fit together? I will check with model sport before I order but any comments appreciated https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-titus-2-2-bead-loc-wheels-for-1-10-scale-12mm-crawler-hex-2-w-o-weights-black-black/rc-car-products/372594 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-bfgoodrich-baja-t-a-kr2-sc-2-2-3-0-m2-medium-tyres/rc-car-products/403160 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted May 1, 2018 Think I have just realised that the above wheels and tyres will not work, the inside bead is 3.0" whereas the outside is 2.2" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted May 1, 2018 Maybe these would be okay or perhaps too wide for the titus wheels? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-trencher-t-2-2-all-terrain-truck-tyres/rc-car-products/395738 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gizard 133 Posted May 1, 2018 Looked at the RC4WD options and although some look really nice they are very pricy... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7881 Posted May 1, 2018 Have you seen the @Pintopower 3 speed transmission lift kit? Search the AMPRO Engineering YouTube channel. Gives much more ground clearance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites