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Ronnyhotdog

Ronnyhotdog's "realistic" CC-01 Unimog 425 Build No.2

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Let's get this going then:

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I'll turn the flash on tomorrow :rolleyes:

I've installed the diff and the drive train and few other bits. I'll be more detailful? tomorrow, this is just to start my build post. Not a great start, is it?

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This Mog is growing on my more and more. I miss having a CC01 and this could well be the model that encourages me to get a new one.

What are your plans to make it "realistic"?

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Well, I liked the first one - it was nice of you to mention where you got the tips, and even cooler seeing them in practice!

Hence, no pressure, but I am looking forward to seeing your work on this one ;)

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The pictures look good to me.  I like ambient lighting instead of a flash to avoid hard shadows!

I'm with njmlondon - what are your plans?  Keeping it stock, or are there any unique touches you want to throw at it?

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3 hours ago, WillyChang said:

What's plans for that neat pile of thin ply? :) 

He's going to panel the box in real wood, to cover up the fake stuff. ;)

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wood veneer would be easier to work with, no?

or just build a whole new tray with the ply :) 

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Do you know about using the extra brass bushing to shim up the rear axle slop? Here's a pic of mine to show:

 

36127640330_d41bd92bbb_b.jpg

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11 hours ago, njmlondon said:

This Mog is growing on my more and more. I miss having a CC01 and this could well be the model that encourages me to get a new one.

What are your plans to make it "realistic"?

That has double meaning for my ambitions. This is my first serious build as it will involve modifying and some scratch building. The chassis will remain largely stock although I took advice from here and replaced the plastic bearings with rubber sealed ones and have put an 80T motor in from the start, although I may put a GRU in, but that will involve modifying the tub, which will give me some experience for future models though. I'm new and always looking to try a something new if only for the experience that will pay off in later builds. The body is where my main attempts at realism will focus. The first definite move will be to separate cab and flatbed, as this gives the most striking difference to the stock body shell. Then to recess the flatbed so it appears as the real life versions. Removing the under body work from beneath the flatbed to make way for the mud guards which will be scratch built and several other features such as spare tyre placement and fuel tanks and storage boxes found on large utility trucks. Nothing new or exiting as it's been done countless times by more experienced hands, but I am looking forward to finding out how it was done and trying it myself.

 

7 hours ago, WillyChang said:

What's plans for that neat pile of thin ply? :) 

This was a bulk purchase just for stock, there's styrene in there too, but I am going to build a several flatbeds to see which looks more realistic or suitable. Plywood, balsa, double-walled cardboard and of course styrene. Each will have different finishes and designs I think.

 

2 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

Do you know about using the extra brass bushing to shim up the rear axle slop? Here's a pic of mine to show:

 

36127640330_d41bd92bbb_b.jpg

I did not, tell me more...

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Looking forward to this.  No experience of the CC-01 but a big Unimog fan.

Unlike the 406, I don't think you can buy the Tamiya 425 shell separately can you ?  So (he says cheekily) if anyone has one going spare, I'd be very keen.  ^_^

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2 hours ago, Ronnyhotdog said:

I did not, tell me more...

I detail the whole thing, including what spacers I used and where, in the build-thread of my Pajero:

 

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Both of the mods for rear axle shimming (Gooney) and rear shock lower mounts (phiber-optik) are pure gold to me after reading those threads.  Has anyone tackled making the stock steering better without buying the GPM kit?

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2 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

Both of the mods for rear axle shimming (Gooney) and rear shock lower mounts (phiber-optik) are pure gold to me after reading those threads.  Has anyone tackled making the stock steering better without buying the GPM kit?

I'm still running the stock 3-point steering. I call it that, because every turn you make is a 3-point turn. :lol:

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2 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

Has anyone tackled making the stock steering better without buying the GPM kit?

The weakness is the plastic tapered steering tube running through the plastic cavity in the chassis tub with only plastic-to-plastic surfaces rubbing together for support.

Theres been various DIY attempts at putting ballbearings to support the tube, most are pretty hit&miss IMHO <_< 

There's 2-3 companies making CC01 steering upgrades today, GPM is just the cheapest ~$25... the next one is HotRacing @ twice the price $50 and there's the one by Square that's about 5X more. 

If you're gunna start buying bearings and Alu tube and shafts and levers... soon be spending more than $25; the GPM kit can be made to work better than anything I can DIY. 

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Here's another fan of the GPM kit. It works flawlessly (once you've figured out where all the bits go), the machining is actually quite decent, and with good ball cups and connectors you can have a pretty much slop-free steering setup on your CC.

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Nearly completed the chassis

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Steering arms attached

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Front double wishbone after the cat had visited

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Front wheel drum assembly and attached steering arm

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Front suspension assembly

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Zoom in to see the wedge of plastic I cut out while not paying attention to how sharp flush side cutters can be and after being specifically warned about it in another thread, too.:rolleyes:

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Rear diff bits

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Not locked diff

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Thanks to @Kingfisher @GooneyBird I added a brass bushing and a plastic bearing to the assembly to get a nice snug fit. Very smooth and almost zero play.

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Completed rear diff and gear assembly

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Rear axle things?

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Rear axle connected to chassis

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Just the shocks and wheels then onto the electronic.

 

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3 hours ago, Ronnyhotdog said:

1. Front double wishbone after the cat had visited

 

2. Zoom in to see the wedge of plastic I cut out while not paying attention to how sharp flush side cutters can be and after being specifically warned about it in another thread, too.

 

3. Thanks to @Kingfisher @GooneyBird I added a brass bushing and a plastic bearing to the assembly to get a nice snug fit. Very smooth and almost zero play.

1. I saw the picture before I read the description. I thought to myself, "...did he drop it on the carpet?". :D

2. Won't even notice it once the wheels are on. I have a ruined gearbox half for a Lunchbox that my girlfriend took a large chunk out of when learning to use the side cutters. She deformed the plastic so much, that it'll take some work to make the 2 halves fit together. Now that you know how to do it wrong, you'll always do it right. 

3. Looks great. As someone who is on their second build, how would you compare the build process of the CC01 to the CW01? 

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The 3 screws in rear diff could use a touch of Loctite. Without it I usually find 1 or 2 loosened everytime I crack the axle open for a look.

Back axle I changed the screws to machine thread, seems to grip better.

Transmission cover I measure depth of the 4 holes and replace with longest possible screws, also machine thread. Haven't yet had to drill thru & nut the other side.

 

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15 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

1. I saw the picture before I read the description. I thought to myself, "...did he drop it on the carpet?". :D

2. Won't even notice it once the wheels are on. I have a ruined gearbox half for a Lunchbox that my girlfriend took a large chunk out of when learning to use the side cutters. She deformed the plastic so much, that it'll take some work to make the 2 halves fit together. Now that you know how to do it wrong, you'll always do it right. 

3. Looks great. As someone who is on their second build, how would you compare the build process of the CC01 to the CW01? 

First thing I noticed was the new construction process of having each part bag used in order, that was not a thing on the old CW-01 chassis. It worked well. This was I think as easy as the 1st build but the little bit of experience from a simple build helped. It was over a lot quicker that I thought it would be, but it is still good experience for future projects. Still learning a lot. I tried the two brass bushings and clip you suggested but there was still a bit of slop so I looked for something else and as I had a lot of plastic bearings left over I tried one and it was a perfect fit. My first improvised modification.:D

May as well put this here as I cannot progress the build beyond this https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/85157-cannot-pair-transmitter-to-receiver-help/

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img2692_1222201772021_6_1100_.thumb.jpg.975a6ea23a218e444f311de371ea705d.jpg

You can also replace the black plastic 'end' washers with brass 850 bushings from the kit

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ZSxrHHj.jpg

Custom shocks holder

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Shock on

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Ready for take off...

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Servo in and connected. It twists the chassis a bit too much at maximum lock and the steering arms catch on something. Not an excellent design.:unsure:

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Electrics installed and connected

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Chassis completed.

Next is the point of this thread; the body. This will be experimentation as well as building as I really have no clue what I'm doing or how it will end up. Lots of ideas but nothing concrete. I'll update the thread when I have new things to show or even ask.

Next time:

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Phase 2: Sore sticky fingers...

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On the topic of steering, at full lock in either direction you may notice the knuckles make contact with the uprights, limiting the amount of steering travel.  I was able to use cutters to remove some of the material from the uprights, and that improved steering travel quite a bit.  I also replaced the front dog bones with Yeah Racing CVD axles to make sure nothing would pop loose at extreme steering angles.  The GPM CVD axles aren't quite as good because the pivot point doesn't line up with the kingpins.

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the C-hubs have a protruding pin each that limits the angle of the knuckle

you can snip off the pins and your knuckles will turn a much bigger angle

but then your plain dogbones start chattering at big lock

which means you need to buy upgrade CVD axles :) 

 

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My flatbeds are beginning to take shape, still don't know which one I'll use, but they will no doubt come in handy for future Unimog builds.gDwGbbr.jpg

Thick cardboard from a delivery box.

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Duct tape hinges and then lots of masking tape

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That's how it will sit in the body shell should I go with this option. Just that poly flatbed needs cutting out to reveal the recess, then glue, fill and spraint.

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The styrene flatbed I built. That is on the back burner till some supplies arrive

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Trip to the lumber yard to collect these 6"x8' planks to deck my patio...

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Not really, they are for my plywood flatbed. IS JUS-A-YOKE!:lol:

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And finally the reason why all small things must be put away and hidden at the end of the day, unless I feel like lifting the furniture to find out where she took them

More as and when.:D

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